Tag Archives: waterfalls

Challenging Millennium Cave Trek

The Millennium Cave tour is an action packed, adventure filled experience. They say it is not for the faint hearted and only those who enjoy a challenge should attempt to join the team.  We will be trekking  through a forest, exploring Vanuatu’s largest cave, scrambling over and under boulders, swimming down a river, and climbing up and down tons of ladders. 

What is the Millennium Cave?

It is the largest and most impressive cave in the Pacific region. Spanning over 400 meters long and 50 meters tall, this labyrinthine cave system is a testament to the power of nature. Its towering stalactites and stalagmites create a surreal underground world.  About a gazillion bats call this cave their home making the rocks below a poo’y surface.

The cave is considered a sacred site and holds great significance for the people of Vanuatu, as it was once a refuge during tribal conflicts. It received it’s new name, Millennium Cave when it opened up to the public in the year 2000.

Most of the proceeds from the Millennium Cave tour go back to the local villages (Nambel and  Funaspef) to fund schools and help educate the children.

Ready for the fun?

We are picked up from Oyster Bay lagoon at 0730 and then we drive 45-minutes to Luganville to pick up Tiffany (27 year old from France) and to the office to sign our lives away.  Next is a 90-minute ride to the small village of Nambel.  This is where the car stops as the road stops.  We meet our guide, Tony who happens to be the brother to our driver Michele.  

Nambel Village

Super small village of 50 people, but the grounds are clean and everything is well kept and beautiful.   We don’t waste time and make our way to Funaspef shortly after arrival.

It is a 30-minute walk through the mud from Nambel to Funaspef village.  Along the way we pass through coconut and cocoa plantations and cross a bamboo bridge.  I say “bridge” loosely as it consists of long bamboo shoots laid across from one side to the other.  Not nailed down or secured in anyway!

Funaspef Village

This is where Tony, our guide lives.  He takes us to the community center and explains the tour and provides us with a torch and life jacket.  And then we are off…it is 10:00am.  We have a 2-hour trek through the forest to the cave entrance.

It has not rained in over 5 days yet the trails/roads are still very muddy (see Matt’s shoes top right).  About 60% of the trail is hard mud or dirt, but the other 40% is pure squishy mud.  The kind that sucks your shoes off and makes it challenging to walk up right.

The scenery to the cave is simply beautiful.  Lush green trees, bright vibrant flowers, birds and only nature as your soundtrack.  We had two 2-minute rest stops for water and continued on.   

We crossed the Sarakota river several times, lots of hiking up and walking down (carefully as not to slip in the mud)…more river crossings.  The water is so clear and beautiful.

Sarakota River

Sarakota River

We experience our first, of many, “ladders.”  I say “ladder” loosely as they are two tree stumps with tree limbs used as rungs.  They are unevenly spaced out, crooked, and leaning to one side.  It is extremely challenging as your shoes are muddy, the ladder leans to one side, and there is no place to get a good grip with your hands.  This is the one ladder Matt was able to “walk down.”  Tiffany and I went down backwards, on all 4s!

But we finally arrive at the entrance to the Millennium Cave. 

Face Painting Ritual

We stop at the entrance for a face painting ceremony.  Because this is a sacred site, Tony performs a ritual to protect us from danger.  The clay paste etching is applied as he tells you what each symbol means:  waterfall, zigzag river, rocks, safety.  This will ensure a safe passage through the river and the cave.

Tony hands us our torches as we descend a steep ladder to the entrance.

Millennium Cave

We enter the beautiful entrance shrouded in plants and trees.  The cave is 50 meters tall and 400 meters wide.  There is a fresh water river running through it causing a slight current.  You step into the cold water up to your knees as you attempt to make your way forward. 

The cave entrance looking outside in.

The cave entrance looking outside in.

Once inside the Cave, we follow Tony as we navigate the river bed, examine the walls of the Cave and aim our torch up to the cave roof, to see the home of tiny bats and swallows. 

The cave entrance looking inside out.

The cave entrance looking inside out.

It was pretty challenging to hold the torch in one hand while wading through the river current and stepping on slippery rocks and boulders in the pitch black.  We turned our lights off and could not see our hand in front of our faces!

I was relived to see the light at the end of the cave.  I am pretty tired already and we are only half way through the adventure.  Legs are trembling, hands are sore (despite me wearing gloves), and heart rate is up from both exertion and exhaustion. And yet I am in wonderment at the loveliness around me.

Exiting the Millennium Cave

Exiting the Millennium Cave

We stop for 20 minutes for lunch, thank goodness.  A view of the cave’s exit.  Matt is desperately trying to keep the dry bag out of the water.  Which is funny as the next part of the adventure is swimming.  

River Swimming

I was excited about the river portion of the tour as I was hoping we could just relax and let the river float us from one end to the other.  Ha!  Not exactly the case.  We pack my phone in a zip lock, then place it in my water proof Ugo small bag, then put that inside another zip lock, which is then placed in a small dry bag and then inside my drybag backpack.  Surely it will stay dry! and it does.

There is a very slight current that slowly moves you but in the end you have to swim, paddle, and kick to keep moving forward.  So much for the relaxing rest period in a cool refreshing river.  I will say the canyon that you swim down is stunning.  So much greenery, lush hillsides, waterfalls, and pure natural beauty.

Several times I floated on my back to look up at the towering canyon walls and it simply took my breath away.

And so many waterfalls.  The cave had several waterfalls, but the ones along the river were stunning!

I also thought that we would be swimming in the river for the full 30-45 minutes.  But as it turns out, you are in the river for 10-12 minutes, then you clamber over giant boulders, back in the river, then out again climbing another one of those darn ladders, back in the river, and over more boulders.  No rest for the weary!

Canyoning

Canyoning begins, once you are done with the swimming portion.  I don’t know if I can dig deep enough for the energy to canyon.  But, what choice do I have?

The boulders are huge; you climb under and clamber over, testing your fitness and sense of adventure. In some areas they have ropes with knots where you can use to climb up or down one side of the boulder.  In other areas they have U-shaped rebar hammered into the rock for you to use as a foot or hand hold.  But most places you are using rock climbing skills to scamper over the wet, and mossy boulders.

In between the canyoning you are still crossing rivers.  A constant state of wet. But onward we continue.

And guess what?  More ladders!  Holy hell you have got to be kidding me!

Are we there yet?

Just when I think I can’t go on any longer, Tony says one more big ladder and then we have a 30 minute trek to Funaspef.  We all make it back in one piece!

Tony’s wife offers us coffee and bananas as we try to dry off.  It doesn’t really matter as we are caked in mud so who cares if we are wet?  It is now 1500, 4.5 hours of adventuring.

We then walk the 30 minutes from Funaspef village to Nambel where Michele awaits with his car.  I’ve never been so relieved to sit down!  Now we have a 90-minute drive to Luganville and then another 40-minute drive to Oyster Bay Lagoon where Sugar Shack awaits us.

The Millennium Cave adventure was a huge adrenaline rush and we spent lots of moments in awe of the beauty around.  The sense of accomplishment we felt at the end was truly unparalleled!

Yeah me, yeah us!  Here are our activity stats:

  • 17,318 steps
  • 11.2 km
  • 735 calories burned (this has to be wrong as I felt we burnt way more than that)
  • 64 floors climbed

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We did the Millennium Cave tour on 8 August 2024.  Hope you did not miss the beautiful blue holes of Vanuatu in our last blog post.

Pentecost an Island full of Surprises

We visit the island of Pentecost primarily for the Naghol (land diving).  But there are so many other wonderful reasons to visit this beautiful island barely touched by modern civilization. 

While walking along the beach we came across a man assembling a canoe for his nephew, Sampson.  It took him 3 days to hand carve the canoe and then he brought it to the beach to lash the rope and alma to the canoe.  The super cool thing was he took what looked like a twig with a pointed end and hammered it (with a rock) into the wooden alma.  I could not believe how easily it went in and stuck forming an “X” to hold the long stick to the alma. 

Elleen, our spokesperson in Wali Bay also introduced us to some local weavers who showed us how they expertly weave these beautiful hand bags.   The dye (middle bottom photo) some of the strands with color (left bottom) to eventually make the stunning bag (top right).  They sell for $1000VT ($10 usd).  The only problem is that the dye rubs off on your clothes…

A few of my favorite local photos.  The top right are men from the Ratap Kastom village (and a friend from another boat). Top left is a dancer from the Bunlop Kastom village and the bottom is a man from Londot village – all on southern Pentecost. 

And then here is my tribe of girls that followed me around each day.  I gave them sparkly nail polish and big heart rings.

Home Bay

Homo Bay is the main bay cruisers anchor at when they want to go see the Ratap Kastom Village Naghol.  The bay was beautiful as the clouds danced around the edges of the mountains.

The Bonfire

After the Naghol, we were all way too excited to go back to our boats.  So, we decided to have a beach BBQ and we invited a few of the locals.  It just happened to be the most perfect evening with clear skies peppered with the constellations.

My Pentecost tribe of women, made me a sand gift out of white rocks.

Waterfalls: Maduit Waterfall

After the Naghol ceremony, we head for Waterfall Bay which is a short 8nm north from Wali Bay.  There were so many cows lounging on the beach – it made for such a funny  photo.  Our friends on Moana (Rena, Chris, and Helena) came with us.

This beautiful bay is known for two very distinct waterfalls.  The Maduit waterfall which can be seen from the anchorage and the Rell Cave Waterfall. 

Two rivers flow gently into the anchorage making a very refreshing fresh water plunge. 

Maduit Waterfall

Pentecost is a bit of a rainy island so it is no surprise that they have lots of waterfalls.  We decide to hike to Maduit waterfall first as we can easily see it from the anchorage.  On the way to the main road we stumble across Glen who generously offers to be our guide.  It is a good thing that he came along as the trail was a little tricky to find.  But once you find the entrance, the rest of the trail is easily followed. 

You’d think the water would be freezing, but it wasn’t. It did take your breath away as you jumped in, but then you quickly got used to it.  Bottom right is our guide, Glen.  We ended up paying him $1000VT ($10 USD) for the 2 hours he spent with the 5 of us.  He did not ask for the money, we offered it to him and took it gratefully. 

The two pools at the bottom of the falls made the most wonderful bubble bath!

It was a truly refreshing afternoon at a stunning waterfall.  Super easy access and beautiful.

Rell Cave Waterfall

The next waterfall was much harder to find.  We searched all over the internet trying to find a location or a person who might guide us to this cave waterfall.  We asked several locals and they had no idea what we were talking about.  So, we went back to research some more. 

Finally, Matt found a document from 2015 that had a short mention of this waterfall.  Sweet as!  We contacted the person and his phone still worked.  He told us to contact his wife, Venneth at Noda Guesthouse or call her +678.594.3287.  She was so nice.  She walked us to the next village, introduced us to Michael who became our guide for the day.

It was a super muddy, slippery path that we would have never found on our own.  You truly need a guide to show you this spectacular waterfall inside a hidden cave!  We walked into the forest, up a hill and into more forest.  Finally we came to the mouth of the cave.

You walk down a very shallow river, then you crawl under the opening of stalactites to get to the waterfall cave.

It was obviously very dark and super hard to hold my iPhone, without dropping it and the flash light while balancing on the slipper rocks. but here you go.  The waterfall was probably 3-4 meters tall as it originated behind the stalactite. 

Of course we had to get wet and man it came down with a lot more force than we anticipated.  We had lots of company with little bats.

We did the Rell Cave Waterfall with our friends from Trinity, Kirsten and Stephan.  Here is a photo of their trimaran and Sugar Shack at anchor in Waterfall Bay.

Super fun bay with lots to see and do. But alas it was time to move to our next adventure.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred during the end of June.  I hope you caught our 2 part series on land-diving.  If not, be sure to visit here and here.

Great Barrier Island

We are free!!!  Oh my goodness after almost 3 months in the marina we finally break ourselves free to do some sailing around New Zealand.  We’ve been tied to the dock doing boat projects and meeting with different vendors and have not had a moment to go sailing until now.  We decide to head to Great Barrier island first and if time and weather permits, Mercury Island.

It is a slow motor down the Whangarei River.  We request permission to have the Te Matau a Pohe “Hook Bridge” open so we may pass under.  Still an amazing thing to see!

It is a beautiful day, albeit light wind on the nose.  We raise the main sail and continue on a motor sail as we don’t even have enough wind for the jib.  We pass by the Hen and Chickens Islands.  I just love their names.

Kaikoura Potato Bay

We approached Great Barrier Island and made the last minute decision to go to Smokehouse Bay which is supposed to be a nice boatie/cruiser bay.  However, when we approached we saw that there were close to 30 boats anchored there – so we stopped short and anchored in Kaikoura Bay also known as Potato Bay.  We had this beautiful bay all to ourselves.

We were expecting some ugly winds so we moved the following morning to a new bay.

Wairahi Bay

There were still a lot of boats at Smokehouse Bay so we decided to go to a bay just past it (still in Great Barrier Island).  We arrived to Wairahi Bay with 3 other boats.  Perfect!  From here we can easily visit the other bays within the western side of Great Barrier Island. We hang out in this anchorage for over  a week.  Several other boats joined us in this anchorage, but it is big enough to not feel crowded.

First, we explore the river that feeds into Wairahi Bay.  Matt took the SUP up the river during high and low tide so that he felt comfortable taking the dinghy with me.  It is so cool to be surrounded by hillsides, overhanging trees, and hidden houses. 

I spotted at least 5 hidden “baches” (summer houses) in the trees.

Smokehouse Bay

About 1 mile down from our anchorage is a popular spot called Smokehouse Bay.  It is a place created for locals and cruisers/boaties.  This as the anchorage that was incredibly busy when we first arrived. However, the weather changed which made this a very uncomfortable anchorage so everyone cleared out when we visited.  This is a shot during low tide (top) and high tide (bottom).

The facilities in this bay were provided by the late Eric Webster and his many friends.  Locals and cruisers maintain the property and equipment.  The Weber family placed Smokehouse Bay under the protection of the Queen National Trust as an open space covenant for the public whilst remaining in private ownership.

A massive rain storm destroyed Smokehouse Bay in November 2005.  Everything was covered in mud and debris and it took over a year to rebuild the facilities.

What can you enjoy at Smokehouse Bay?

  • Pizza Oven
  • Smokehouse (perfect for smoking fresh catch)
  • Grills
  • Laundry hand crank basins and clothes lines
  • (2) showers including 1 that offers hot water from a wood burning stove
  • Free book trade library
  • Toilets
  • Outdoor seating area around a bonfire
  • Great hikes on the 5 hectres (50 acres)

We enjoyed the entire bay to ourselves because it was inclement weather and all the boats left for a more protected anchorage.  We hiked to the summit and had excellent views of the bay.

Port Fitzroy

The most populated bay in Great Barrier Island is Port Fitzroy.  It is where you can get fuel and some supplies.  Super cute little town with a market, library, visitor center, and burger joint.  The town is the top photo.

There are two great hikes in this bay.  One starts from the center of town and leads you to a beautiful waterfall and the other is across the bay and leads you to a spectacular crows-nest view.

We decide to do the waterfall hike first, since we were already in town and it is only a 40minute hike to the falls.  But it is straight up.   First, you clean your shoes with a spray and scrub…then off you go down the path.

About 40-minutes, 300+ stairs, and 1.5 miles  later we arrive at the triple waterfall.

We take a moment to enjoy the beauty around us, dip our toes in (its freezing), and head back.

Next we take our dinghy across the bay and leave it at the dock (red arrow).  We then hike to the valley (green arrow on right), up to the peak and back down to the dock.  Super good hike.

At the top of the peak is a swing bridge that leads you to a 600-year old Kauri tree.  Once at the tree, you can climb up to the crows-nest to get a spectacular view of the bay.

As we make our way back down the hill we take a turn off to Sunset Rock.  I bet this would be wonderful to watch the sunset…

All in all we hiked 10.5 kilometers or 6.5 miles.  We were a bit bushed when we got back to the boat.

Historic Floods

We ended up spending a little more time in Great Barrier due to bad weather.  Lucky for us we were tucked away in the perfect anchorage for inclement weather.  Evidently this is a once in 50 year flood and yet it happened twice within a week!

Everything was flooded including the airport, grocery stores, and busses!

And of course the streets and highways.

We weather the second storm at a different bay called Karaka Bay at Great Barrier.   This was the calm before the storm.

Some more beautiful photos from Karaka Bay

I just love the stunning motus, rock formations, and islands.

Our friends captured us heading up the river, n our way back to the marina.

Events from this blog occurred in late January 2023.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  Don’t miss our last blog where we explore the Lost Springs.