Tag Archives: vanuatu

Hiding on Aore Island

There are navigational hazards all over the oceans and lagoons.  These can range from natural reefs and bommies that are just below the surface to lost containers, FADs (fishing devices), debris and trash,

We are constantly watching the ocean in front of us and utilizing multiple charts and satellite images to ensure a smooth passage.  This would be whether it is 1200nm or 8nm.  Distance doesn’t matter when things can pop up at any moment.

We were leaving Atchin and heading to Aore island which is a 10nm sail.  We had full sails as there were light winds predicted.  

What Can You See?

Matt called me over to look out at the ocean.  Hmmm, I could see a color difference ahead so we both checked the charts.  We were running navionics, B&G, Rocket Guide, Garmin, satellite charts from three sources and I am on the bow as a lookout.  This is our norm.

Me looking for visual changes in the ocean and or reefs / bommies.

At first glance we could not see any reason as to why the ocean goes from dark blue to a lighter blue.  I looked closely at Navionics.  Everything appears clear (left image)….until you zoom in (right image) and click on the small dot when “reef” shows up.  Well, that is one obstruction we want to avoid.  

But on the satellite charts there are two areas of concern.  The oval shaped one below is the one we spotted after we zoomed in to Navionics.  However, the long skinny one, just below the boat never showed up.  What the heck?  Well, no matter what it is, let’s avoid it!

As it turns out, we believe that the light coloring in the satellite chart could be a cut in the fringing reef where a creek emerges from the forest.  But, despite this possibility we decided it was best to go around it.

Aore Island

We arrived safely into Aiswari Bay on Aore Island.  It is a tricky entrance where you have to have good light to navigate around the reefs that line the entrance.

You are rewarded with a super calm, beautiful anchorage once you are inside the pass.  We were looking for an isolated anchorage where we could work on boat projects and let my hands heal.  

Matt took this time to go for a few paddle board trips, we walked onshore (which is pretty much the only thing I can do) and we worked on small boat projects.

We had beautiful sunsets (top) and sunrises (bottom).

What Do You Do With Injured Hands?

I organized our spices.  Yep, that is exciting.  We had all of our spices in an upper cabinet.  The problem was you could not see anything beyond the spices in front.  So, they ended up getting moved around a lot making it difficult to find what you needed.

So, I gathered my label maker, labeled the lids and we moved them to a drawer.  Sweet as!

Go Sun

Our good friend Rena on sv Moana gifted us with a Go Sun.  I had never heard of them before, but of course Matt was over the moon with this new oven.  All it needs is a little sun and you can bake bread, pizza dough, baguettes, veggies, potatoes and more.  Our first try came out pretty darn tasty!

Malokilikili Bay, Malo Isalnd

We had a “light” weather window and decided to motor sail10nm to Malo Island.  We had passed by a pretty bay on the way to Aore Island but could not enter due to the wind direction.  Since, the winds shifted and decreased, we thought we would go check it out.

We are headed to Malokilikili Bay just off of Malotina Island (which is just off Malo Island).  There are a lot of reefs and bommies in this area.  The best time to enter is when the sun is straight up, clear skies, and calm seas.  The tide is 2m at 0 tide and we have a 1.3m draft.  Doesn’t leave a lot of wiggle room.  But we are able to navigate around all the bommies and anchored in a sandy spot.

All of the dark spots in the turquoise water are bommies or coral heads.  The white or gray areas are reef.  Can you see Sugar Shack in the photo above?

The photo below shows you how close we are to one large bommie.  We dropped our hook in 3m, put out 15m of chain, plus 5m of bridle.  We could have anchored further up, but we set the hook good and decided to leave it.  

Super beautiful, calm, protected spot.  We enjoyed a nice long walk around Malotina and then took the dinghy over to Malokilikili.  We met a few locals who took us around to each of the 4 villages on the island and even managed to score some fruit!

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Malokilikil and Aore Island in late July 2024.  In our last blog I share the unfortunate burning of my hands….

Sugar Shack at Sughulamp Reef

Sughulamp Reef is not technically an anchorage.  There are no anchor spots on the charts or guide books.  But, there was a beautiful sandy area next the reef that was screaming for our attention.

We edged up to the reef and dropped the hook in 2.4m of sand.  We have a reef in front of us that blocks the swell from the sea. There is a reef to the right and left and the lagoon behind us.  A perfect spot for relaxing and soaking up the pure beauty of the Maskelyne islands.

It is raining a lot so we got several rainbows in between the rain storms.  We were re-anchoring when Matt captured this rainbow.

Matt got the drone out when we finally had a sunny moment.  I am so glad he did as he captured some amazing shots!

In the sandy area below the boat we found a huge school of trigger fish, a school of squid, and several small soft coral patches with nemos.

The red arrow is Sugar Shack at the Sughulamp Reef.

And the most important part of this location is that it is close to the dugongs.  We went out several times to see them but it was always raining.  Still a huge pleasure being in their presence.

Vulai Island

This is an uninhabited island.  It is said that it used to be the leper island and is now tabu amongst the locals.  Nobody lives here either because of the tabu or the fact that there is no flat dirt anywhere to build.  It is overgrown with palm trees and vegetation making it pretty difficult to imagine where a settlement might be.

But we did wander around and tried to get to the beach on the other side of the island.  But the deeply thick mangroves prevented access.

This island had so many small palm trees growing.  The coconuts fall from the tree, and start to sprout a little palm.  When this palm is about 3-6″ you can open the coconut and have tasty coconut cake.  If the coconut is left on the ground, the little tree will break free from the shell and grow roots into the ground.  Making a lovely coconut farm on Vulai.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We were at Sughulamp Reef around mid-July 2024.  In our last blog I share our photos from our dugong adventures.

Photo by Smithsonian

Dugongs, Beautiful Sea Cows

Dugongs  are very large, gentle, and super shy marine mammals that are sometimes called “Sea Cows.”  They are light gray in color and can grow up to 4 meters in length and weigh up to 400kg (900lbs). 

We have the very rare opportunity to swim with them in the Maskelyne Islands.  However, let me preface this with a note.  Below are some photos taken from other sources, as noted.  Some of our pictures were fuzzy because the water was murky due to the rain.  But some came out great when the sun came out like this one below.

A Dugong vs. a Manatee

Dugongs are cousins to the freshwater manatee and are similar in appearance and behavior.  Though there are noticeable differences.  Both are related to the elephant, although the giant land animal is not at all similar in appearance or behavior.

Copyright: 2001 Encyclopedia Britannica, Inc.

Copyright: 2001 Encyclopedia Britannica, Inc.

Some other differences:

  • Teeth
    • Dugong: Males have tusk like incisors vs. Manatees: Have regular teeth
  • Lifespan
    • Dugong: 70 years vs. Manatee: 40 years
  • Mating
    • Dugong: Mate for life vs. Manatee: Polygamists, many partners
  • Start Mating
    • Dugong: 10 years old vs. Manatee: 3 years old
  • Birth Rate
    • Dugong: One every 3-5 years vs. Manatee: One every 2-3 years

What do Dugongs Eat?

These enormous vegetarians eat sea grass.  They can be found in warm coastal waters from East Africa to Australia, including the Red Sea, Indian Ocean, and the Pacific.

Most dugongs prefer to eat in areas where seagrass is more sparse rather than lush areas.  They also prefer to eat just the leaves of the grass but when that is limited they will eat the whole plant, including the roots.  Dugongs will dig up the plant and then shake it to remove the sand before eating.

They will dine day and night, rooting with their bristled, sensitive snouts and chomping down with their rough lips.

Dugong Predators 

They have few natural predators, although animals such as crocodiles, killer whales, and sharks pose a threat to the young. 

In the past, dugong meat used to be considered a source of protein, their oil used for cooking and other parts whittled into handicrafts. But now, in Vanuatu, it is considered “tabu” to harm the dugongs and the government is committed to protecting the sea cows and sea grass they eat. 

The next threat to these gentle giants is climate change. Vanuatu is in the “Ring of Fire” and prone to natural disasters which disseminate the shallow sea grass feeding areas. Dugongs are considered endangered in New Caledonia and critically endangered in Africa.

The top left photo is the indent in the sand that a very large male left after he swam away.  The top right is a mama and baby avoiding me. The middle is a mama and baby side by side and the bottom two are another set of mamas and babies.

Dugong Behavior

What we found in Vanuatu was not typical dugong behavior.  Usually they like to be alone or in pairs.  However, we found a herd of at least 10 swimming, playing, and resting in the Maskelyne Islands.

Dugongs are very shy by nature. However, we found them to be a little curious and playful circling back around to swim near Matt and our guide who were free diving.

They can go up to six minutes without breathing, though 2,5 minutes is more typical.  With us it seemed they would go longer than 6 minutes, but then again we were not looking at our clocks to time the duration.

I’ve read that they sometimes breathe by “standing” on their tail with their heads above water.  We never saw this behavior but it would have made for a great photo!

Their eyesight is very poor so the mainly rely on their sense of smell and touch.  They find their food using smell and sense of feeling through their pectoral fins which they use to walk on the sea bed.  Mothers and calves are almost always within touching distance and often reach out to each other with their flippers.

We saw several herds of dugongs which is very unusual.  The first was a herd of 10 and the second was a herd of 6 all at the Maskelyne Islands.  Usually they are swimming in the deeper water making it more difficult to capture photos.

Fun facts

Dugongs have lots of hitch hikers.  These remora attach their heads to the dugong and swim along with them wherever they go, regardless of how fast or slow they are moving.

They always seem to have a smile to give you, no matter how irritated they are with you bothering them.

We met a professional photographer who took these photos a few days before we arrived.  Check out her work at www.mauiph.com

Dugong Tour

We tried to find the sea cows on our own by visiting all of the spots other cruisers had told us about.  But they were elusive.  We would see them from the dinghy, but once we got in the water we could not find them. 

Finally, we tracked down and hired a guide.  Marsel Nathaniel (can be found on Facebook messenger) or at +678.505.7428.  He and his brother Chris came to pick us up (for an additional 500vt/pp ($5/usd) and took us out to see 4 spots.  We found dugongs at 2 of them.  The cost per person was 4000vt/pp ($40/usd) which included the transport.  It was well worth it!

Once we knew where they were at we were able to go back on our own and experience more adventures – which was pure magic!

And this to end our extremely astonishing encounters with the dugongs.  

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events. We swam with the dugongs in mid-July 2024.  Discover the beauty of the Maskelyne islands in our last blog post.