Tag Archives: vanuatu

Photo by Smithsonian

Dugongs, Beautiful Sea Cows

Dugongs  are very large, gentle, and super shy marine mammals that are sometimes called “Sea Cows.”  They are light gray in color and can grow up to 4 meters in length and weigh up to 400kg (900lbs). 

We have the very rare opportunity to swim with them in the Maskelyne Islands.  However, let me preface this with a note.  Below are some photos taken from other sources, as noted.  Some of our pictures were fuzzy because the water was murky due to the rain.  But some came out great when the sun came out like this one below.

A Dugong vs. a Manatee

Dugongs are cousins to the freshwater manatee and are similar in appearance and behavior.  Though there are noticeable differences.  Both are related to the elephant, although the giant land animal is not at all similar in appearance or behavior.

Copyright: 2001 Encyclopedia Britannica, Inc.

Copyright: 2001 Encyclopedia Britannica, Inc.

Some other differences:

  • Teeth
    • Dugong: Males have tusk like incisors vs. Manatees: Have regular teeth
  • Lifespan
    • Dugong: 70 years vs. Manatee: 40 years
  • Mating
    • Dugong: Mate for life vs. Manatee: Polygamists, many partners
  • Start Mating
    • Dugong: 10 years old vs. Manatee: 3 years old
  • Birth Rate
    • Dugong: One every 3-5 years vs. Manatee: One every 2-3 years

What do Dugongs Eat?

These enormous vegetarians eat sea grass.  They can be found in warm coastal waters from East Africa to Australia, including the Red Sea, Indian Ocean, and the Pacific.

Most dugongs prefer to eat in areas where seagrass is more sparse rather than lush areas.  They also prefer to eat just the leaves of the grass but when that is limited they will eat the whole plant, including the roots.  Dugongs will dig up the plant and then shake it to remove the sand before eating.

They will dine day and night, rooting with their bristled, sensitive snouts and chomping down with their rough lips.

Dugong Predators 

They have few natural predators, although animals such as crocodiles, killer whales, and sharks pose a threat to the young. 

In the past, dugong meat used to be considered a source of protein, their oil used for cooking and other parts whittled into handicrafts. But now, in Vanuatu, it is considered “tabu” to harm the dugongs and the government is committed to protecting the sea cows and sea grass they eat. 

The next threat to these gentle giants is climate change. Vanuatu is in the “Ring of Fire” and prone to natural disasters which disseminate the shallow sea grass feeding areas. Dugongs are considered endangered in New Caledonia and critically endangered in Africa.

The top left photo is the indent in the sand that a very large male left after he swam away.  The top right is a mama and baby avoiding me. The middle is a mama and baby side by side and the bottom two are another set of mamas and babies.

Dugong Behavior

What we found in Vanuatu was not typical dugong behavior.  Usually they like to be alone or in pairs.  However, we found a herd of at least 10 swimming, playing, and resting in the Maskelyne Islands.

Dugongs are very shy by nature. However, we found them to be a little curious and playful circling back around to swim near Matt and our guide who were free diving.

They can go up to six minutes without breathing, though 2,5 minutes is more typical.  With us it seemed they would go longer than 6 minutes, but then again we were not looking at our clocks to time the duration.

I’ve read that they sometimes breathe by “standing” on their tail with their heads above water.  We never saw this behavior but it would have made for a great photo!

Their eyesight is very poor so the mainly rely on their sense of smell and touch.  They find their food using smell and sense of feeling through their pectoral fins which they use to walk on the sea bed.  Mothers and calves are almost always within touching distance and often reach out to each other with their flippers.

We saw several herds of dugongs which is very unusual.  The first was a herd of 10 and the second was a herd of 6 all at the Maskelyne Islands.  Usually they are swimming in the deeper water making it more difficult to capture photos.

Fun facts

Dugongs have lots of hitch hikers.  These remora attach their heads to the dugong and swim along with them wherever they go, regardless of how fast or slow they are moving.

They always seem to have a smile to give you, no matter how irritated they are with you bothering them.

We met a professional photographer who took these photos a few days before we arrived.  Check out her work at www.mauiph.com

Dugong Tour

We tried to find the sea cows on our own by visiting all of the spots other cruisers had told us about.  But they were elusive.  We would see them from the dinghy, but once we got in the water we could not find them. 

Finally, we tracked down and hired a guide.  Marsel Nathaniel (can be found on Facebook messenger) or at +678.505.7428.  He and his brother Chris came to pick us up (for an additional 500vt/pp ($5/usd) and took us out to see 4 spots.  We found dugongs at 2 of them.  The cost per person was 4000vt/pp ($40/usd) which included the transport.  It was well worth it!

Once we knew where they were at we were able to go back on our own and experience more adventures – which was pure magic!

And this to end our extremely astonishing encounters with the dugongs.  

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events. We swam with the dugongs in mid-July 2024.  Discover the beauty of the Maskelyne islands in our last blog post.

Fanla Festival: ROM Dance

We are so privileged to be able to witness The ROM or “masked” dance in person.  I hope I am able to convey to you the true spectrum of culture, magic, story-telling, and ritual beliefs that this hypnotic dance conveys.

We shared the history, black magic, and spiritual nature behind the masks and costumes in our last blog.  This blog will detail the actual ROM ceremony, they rhythm music, and will explain the ritual behind the ceremony.

The ROM Dance is an authentic expression of Vanuatu’s culture.  It is a genuine heritage and belief wrapped in the supernatural and rich in symbolism.  The ceremony is believed to influence the harvests.  However, its primary purpose is to provide the men an opportunity to move up the ranks in their community through the grade taking process.

The entire ceremony is shrouded in mystical black magic to evoke the spirits.  Each dance performed by the ROM dancers tells a story that reveals the diverse cultural differences.

This ritual is imbued with secret knowledge that the elder chiefs keep hidden from the community.  Only a few men are chosen and given the honor to pay huge sums to make the ROM costume and perform in the ROM dance.

The ROM Dance

There are two sets of performers during the ROM dance.  The ROM costumed dancers with the elaborate and complex masks and costumes made of banana leaves are the focal point.  Each ROM dancer holds a wooden carving that represents a weapon.  This is in case they need to fight the evil spirit within the mask/costume.

The “nambas” are the warriors (chiefs and elders) that chant, sing, provide protection for the ROM dancers and ensure they are performing the dance correctly.  The chiefs and higher ranking nambas are identified by the number of pig tusks they wear and the red flower.  The more pig tusks the higher ranked the man is in the community.

As the dance begins, story, myth, heritage, and belief entwine with the supernatural in an unfolding rich in symbolism.  I am on the edge of my seat with eyes wide open and they have my full attention.  I don’t know whether to record this with my eyes, iPhone or GoPro so I do it all!

See either sv Sugar Shack or my Instagram for videos.

The Music

Two nambas play a powerful and rhythmic beat on the tam tams. These  are the beautifully carved, 4 meter tall slit drums.  Along with these  is the haunting sound from a bamboo flute.  This music in conjunction with the nambas who stomp their feet make the ground shake and give you goosebumps.

The nambas also carry bamboo sticks which they hit the ground with while stomping their feet. In the top left photo you can see the bamboo flute  and the bamboo sticks in the nambas hands.  The top right are the nambas playing the tam tams.

The Ceremony

During the ceremony they performed 5 distinct dances and songs.  However, it was hard for me to discern the differences between them.  Each performance had a special and unique meaning that evoked the spirits through black magic.

Sometimes the ROM dancers surround the nambas and sometimes it is the other way around.  But the movements are slow as they continue to stomp their feet keeping to the music.

We are lucky enough to have 10 ROM dancers, each with their own personalized and unique mask.  The two at the front were the most intricate and frankly were the most interesting to watch.  They were very energetic, jumping, and stomping  around leading the group.

With their intricate masks and flowing costumes that drape the bodies it was riveting. The entire group together was mesmerizing and breath taking.  I can’t imagine it is easy to see or breath out of these masks and they danced for well over an hour.  

It was raining and very cloud and difficult to get good shots.  Even with a little photo tweaking the photos just don’t do it justice. 

This was a profound and riveting privilege to witness.  I hope I did it justice and peaked your interest to learn more.  Be sure to check out our sv Sugar Shack Instagram account for the videos and photos of the dance and ceremony.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  The ROM Dance took place in Fanla, Ambrym on 12 July 2024.  Did you catch the post on the mystery of the ROM Mask?

Fanla Festival: A Mystical Culture

The ROM or “masked” dance is known for its detailed and complex masks, elaborate costumes, and rhythmic drumming.  It is performed by the chiefs, elders, and sorcerers during special ceremonies, grade-taking, and occasionally for performances.

In this post I will share with you the history and magic of the cone shaped masks.  In our next blog, you will encounter the extraordinary ROM dance.

Legend of the Mask

The two-sided ROM mask represents good and evil.  The legend says that a beautiful young woman from Olal (a village on the North tip of Ambrym) created the first ROM costume to gain the love of a young man. She donned the ROM outfit and enticed him into the forest where she revealed herself to him and fatefully told him how she made the costume.

The man did not love the woman, but he did love the mask.  So, he killed the woman, took the mask, and sold the rights to make the copies of the costume to fellow tribesmen.  He traded the rights for pigs which he used to gain the next grade and improve his status.

The belief that stands for the “good” stems from a young mother who had a baby who could not be soothed.  It cried uncontrollably so she created a mask to bring it joy.

How is the ROM Costume Made?

The ancient ritual is shrouded in secrecy. Costumes are kept in strict hiding until the ceremony begins.  If a male takes a “peek”, they must pay the fine of one pig and endure a whipping with a stinging plant.

If a woman watched any process in the making of the costume then she would be killed.

The ROM mask consists of a tall, conical, brightly painted, banana fiber mask, with a face that resembles a baboon.  Each side is unique and clearly shows the fight between good and evil.  The top part is adorned with feathers, leaves, and flowers.

The dancer’s bodies are adorned in a thick, somewhat intimidating cloak of dried bananas leaves.  In their hand they carry hand woven, cone shaped weapons to ward off evil spirits.

Each costume, especially the mask is made with great sorcery and embedded with magic.

High ranking chiefs and warriors who dance alongside the Rom dancers wearing nambas.  They will often wear red flowers in their hair to symbolize pride, majesty, knowledge and strength, as well as a boar tooth necklace to indicate power and wealth.

Some chiefs will wear a namale leaf on their back to convey peace, while others wear white bird feathers to suggest both peace and safety.

The Rights to the Mask

Only men who are of a certain grade can buy the rights to make a mask.  When a man wishes to ascend the village hierarchy, he must purchase (with pigs and money) the rights to learn how to make the mask and embed it with spirits and power.  They will create a pattern and spend an extensive amount of time learning the rules that determine specific colors and shapes of the mask as well as the type of magic it will possess.

The first mask design will be very simple and will only cost a few pigs and money.  As the man ascends in grades, his mask will become more complicated and will cost a lot more. As the man ascends, he must pay with more pigs and money to learn the teachings of a more complicated designs.  The right to make or wear a sacred mask carries high costs in the Ambrym society.

Once they buy the rights to a design they own it for life.  They will be the only one that can replicate the design, carve the design, and draw the design for eternity.  

Each design has powerful magic embedded into it which is why it is destroyed after the ceremony.  Part of the teaching is not only how to create the mask, but how to embed it with the spirits.  ROM masks usually invoke the spirits of the ancestors and are important agents of social control.

Mass Destruction

Immediately following the ceremony, the creator of the costume will destroy the mask and burn the banana leaves.  They believe that the spirit within lives on and will haunt and plague the wearer if it is not destroyed.

Although, I think that is an ancient belief and practice.  Why do you ask?  Well we were told to tell other cruisers to come anytime to see the ROM dance.  But if it takes 2 weeks to make the costumes and they are destroyed after each ceremony, then how can someone come to see it anytime??

After the ceremony we were allowed to take photos of the costumes.  However, nobody was allowed to get closer than 3 meters.

This website has interesting insight into the ROM mask.

Coming up next is the very exciting ROM dance which was a profound and riveting privilege to witness.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  The ROM dance at the Fanla Festival took place on 11 July 2024.  Did you read about Fanla, the authentic kastom village where the ROM dance takes place?