Tag Archives: vanuatu

Vanuatu Blue Holes

Vanuatu boasts of having more blue holes than anywhere else in the world.  So it is no surprise that we wanted to visit a few during our stay.  We were lucky enough to visit 3 and each were very different yet so very similar in their outstanding beauty.

Note:  This is a long post because I wanted to include all three blue holes: Malo, Matevulu, and Riri.  Funny enough, we visited the blue holes in the same order as they are listed here from beautiful, to stunning, to exquisite.  Matt’s favorite was the Riri blue hole because they had a nice wooden deck.  However, my favorite was the Matevulu blue hole because of the varied colors and amazing river journey to get to the hole.

What is a blue hole?

In Vanuatu, the blue holes are created due to its unique geology.  Water from the island’s volcanic mountains, over 30km away, flow underground into limestone caves.  These caves corrode and create an underground stream.  Eventually, the streams resurface as freshwater springs, or what is known as a blue hole.  The crystal-clear water meanders from each blue hole to the sea.  The waters are incredibly clear, creating a dazzling luminescent effect that seems almost too perfect to be natural.

Espiritu Santo is home to more blue holes than any other island. The water draws its incredible azure color from the minerals and limestone rock, creating a veritable oasis in the forest.

Malo Blue Hole

The first blue hole we visit is called the Malo Blue Hole.  We anchored at Ratua Island and took the dinghy across the Segund Channel to the river opening.  It took us about 10 minutes to dinghy up the crystal-clear river to Lake Malo.  

River to Lake Malo

River to Lake Malo

There were a gazillion sand dollars in the river. I mean it was a treasure trove.  They were all dead, but still so very beautiful.  Only a few made it back to Sugar Shack with me. Lake Malo was full of sting rays and bird life surrounding the turquoise waters.

We continue down a smaller and more shallower river which opens into the rarely visited Malo Blue Hole.  It is so calm and peaceful here.  The mirror image of the lush forest on the water took our breath away!  Pure solitude and bliss.  The water is more turquoise, but stunning none the less.

Here is our track into Lake Malo and then into the Malo Blue Hole.

Here is a drone shot which shows Ratua (top photo, small island) the dark blue water is the Segund channel, then the lake (which runs off the edge of the photo), then the small blue hole (can you see Sweetie in the blue hole?)

Not the best photo of us as it was into the sun, but you know what we look like 🙂

Malo Island’s blue hole is a true swimming sanctuary and rarely visited (especially if there are no guests at Ratua Island Resort).  Deep and refreshing, this is considered one of the more natural of Santo’s blue holes.  There are no services, toilets, or man-made structures here.

Matevulu Blue Hole

We slowly wandered up the twisty river to Vanuatu’s largest and deepest (18m deep) blue hole called Matevulu. The red arrow is Sugar Shack in the Peterson Bay Lagoon.  We took Sweetie up the long zig-zagging river to the Matevulu Blue Hole.  In the bottom photo, the drone was 120 meters high and yet you can still see the bottom.

The slow trip upriver was an experience in itself as we floated across the transparent waters under the canopy of lush green trees.  This river had bright green floating plants on the river’s edge.  It felt like Sweetie was overing over the water.

This is by far the prettiest river leading to a blue hole.  

Matevulu Blue Hole

The first thing you see is the amazing water, then you see the welcome center on the shore.  It costs 1,000vt ($8USD) which you put into an “Honesty Box.”  They have restrooms and a few sitting and lounge areas.

It is simply unbelievable how clear this water is!  The water is about 2′ above the cement platform (top left photo).

Once we arrived to the blue hole we noticed a giant rope swing tied to a large banyan tree and a large slide.  Of course we had to do it all!  The slide required a bucket full of water before sliding down the extra large pipe.

My hands are still in recovery so I skipped the rope swing, but Matt had a go at it.

The tallest rope swing is off the banyan tree where they “propped” a ladder up against its side.

The left photo is taken half under water and yet it is still clear.  Keep in mind that this is 18 meters deep!  And you can still see the bottom.

Sweetie looks like she is just hovering in mid-air….

The only bummer part of this hole is the destroyed cement structures that have fallen into the pool.  Previously, used to get in/out of the water and also as a sun bathing area.  It’s a shame as it is a detractor, but the rest of the beauty still overshadows it.

Riri Blue Hole

Known as the prettiest blue hole in all of Vanuatu. The paddle along the translucent Riri River into the entrance lagoon is like a portal to another world.  Utter perfection for steamy eye gazing and languid soaks.

The river to the Riri blue hole is much shorter and lined with mangroves.  As you can see from the image below, we enter from the upper right corner, to a wide “lake” and then start down the river to the blue hole.

Paddling up the entrance lagoon and crystal river is nothing short of magical!  The Matevulu and Riri rivers are much bluer than the Malo river leading to the holes.  

The colors literally take your breath away.  It is amazing to me that you can see so clearly to the bottom knowing it is fairly deep.  Riri is much smaller than Matevulu, but impressive!  A large fallen tree draws your attention, wish it could be removed.

It is a kaleidoscope of colors and immediately pulls you into its beauty.

Matt finds the rope swing and makes a spectacle of himself.  

I find pure joy just floating in this gorgeous oasis.

The locals have gone to a lot of effort to provide platforms, bathrooms and changing areas to make this blue hole easily accessible. Cost is 1000vt per person or 500 vt for kids.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited the blue holes in the month of August 2024.  We kill it on our fast run to Luganville to run a million errands in our last blog post.

Hiding on Aore Island

There are navigational hazards all over the oceans and lagoons.  These can range from natural reefs and bommies that are just below the surface to lost containers, FADs (fishing devices), debris and trash,

We are constantly watching the ocean in front of us and utilizing multiple charts and satellite images to ensure a smooth passage.  This would be whether it is 1200nm or 8nm.  Distance doesn’t matter when things can pop up at any moment.

We were leaving Atchin and heading to Aore island which is a 10nm sail.  We had full sails as there were light winds predicted.  

What Can You See?

Matt called me over to look out at the ocean.  Hmmm, I could see a color difference ahead so we both checked the charts.  We were running navionics, B&G, Rocket Guide, Garmin, satellite charts from three sources and I am on the bow as a lookout.  This is our norm.

Me looking for visual changes in the ocean and or reefs / bommies.

At first glance we could not see any reason as to why the ocean goes from dark blue to a lighter blue.  I looked closely at Navionics.  Everything appears clear (left image)….until you zoom in (right image) and click on the small dot when “reef” shows up.  Well, that is one obstruction we want to avoid.  

But on the satellite charts there are two areas of concern.  The oval shaped one below is the one we spotted after we zoomed in to Navionics.  However, the long skinny one, just below the boat never showed up.  What the heck?  Well, no matter what it is, let’s avoid it!

As it turns out, we believe that the light coloring in the satellite chart could be a cut in the fringing reef where a creek emerges from the forest.  But, despite this possibility we decided it was best to go around it.

Aore Island

We arrived safely into Aiswari Bay on Aore Island.  It is a tricky entrance where you have to have good light to navigate around the reefs that line the entrance.

You are rewarded with a super calm, beautiful anchorage once you are inside the pass.  We were looking for an isolated anchorage where we could work on boat projects and let my hands heal.  

Matt took this time to go for a few paddle board trips, we walked onshore (which is pretty much the only thing I can do) and we worked on small boat projects.

We had beautiful sunsets (top) and sunrises (bottom).

What Do You Do With Injured Hands?

I organized our spices.  Yep, that is exciting.  We had all of our spices in an upper cabinet.  The problem was you could not see anything beyond the spices in front.  So, they ended up getting moved around a lot making it difficult to find what you needed.

So, I gathered my label maker, labeled the lids and we moved them to a drawer.  Sweet as!

Go Sun

Our good friend Rena on sv Moana gifted us with a Go Sun.  I had never heard of them before, but of course Matt was over the moon with this new oven.  All it needs is a little sun and you can bake bread, pizza dough, baguettes, veggies, potatoes and more.  Our first try came out pretty darn tasty!

Malokilikili Bay, Malo Isalnd

We had a “light” weather window and decided to motor sail10nm to Malo Island.  We had passed by a pretty bay on the way to Aore Island but could not enter due to the wind direction.  Since, the winds shifted and decreased, we thought we would go check it out.

We are headed to Malokilikili Bay just off of Malotina Island (which is just off Malo Island).  There are a lot of reefs and bommies in this area.  The best time to enter is when the sun is straight up, clear skies, and calm seas.  The tide is 2m at 0 tide and we have a 1.3m draft.  Doesn’t leave a lot of wiggle room.  But we are able to navigate around all the bommies and anchored in a sandy spot.

All of the dark spots in the turquoise water are bommies or coral heads.  The white or gray areas are reef.  Can you see Sugar Shack in the photo above?

The photo below shows you how close we are to one large bommie.  We dropped our hook in 3m, put out 15m of chain, plus 5m of bridle.  We could have anchored further up, but we set the hook good and decided to leave it.  

Super beautiful, calm, protected spot.  We enjoyed a nice long walk around Malotina and then took the dinghy over to Malokilikili.  We met a few locals who took us around to each of the 4 villages on the island and even managed to score some fruit!

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Malokilikil and Aore Island in late July 2024.  In our last blog I share the unfortunate burning of my hands….

Sugar Shack at Sughulamp Reef

Sughulamp Reef is not technically an anchorage.  There are no anchor spots on the charts or guide books.  But, there was a beautiful sandy area next the reef that was screaming for our attention.

We edged up to the reef and dropped the hook in 2.4m of sand.  We have a reef in front of us that blocks the swell from the sea. There is a reef to the right and left and the lagoon behind us.  A perfect spot for relaxing and soaking up the pure beauty of the Maskelyne islands.

It is raining a lot so we got several rainbows in between the rain storms.  We were re-anchoring when Matt captured this rainbow.

Matt got the drone out when we finally had a sunny moment.  I am so glad he did as he captured some amazing shots!

In the sandy area below the boat we found a huge school of trigger fish, a school of squid, and several small soft coral patches with nemos.

The red arrow is Sugar Shack at the Sughulamp Reef.

And the most important part of this location is that it is close to the dugongs.  We went out several times to see them but it was always raining.  Still a huge pleasure being in their presence.

Vulai Island

This is an uninhabited island.  It is said that it used to be the leper island and is now tabu amongst the locals.  Nobody lives here either because of the tabu or the fact that there is no flat dirt anywhere to build.  It is overgrown with palm trees and vegetation making it pretty difficult to imagine where a settlement might be.

But we did wander around and tried to get to the beach on the other side of the island.  But the deeply thick mangroves prevented access.

This island had so many small palm trees growing.  The coconuts fall from the tree, and start to sprout a little palm.  When this palm is about 3-6″ you can open the coconut and have tasty coconut cake.  If the coconut is left on the ground, the little tree will break free from the shell and grow roots into the ground.  Making a lovely coconut farm on Vulai.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We were at Sughulamp Reef around mid-July 2024.  In our last blog I share our photos from our dugong adventures.