Tag Archives: vanuatu

240 Hour Passage: Vanuatu to Marshall Islands

As you know, our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This passage occurred toward the end of September.  We have been playing in Marshall Islands for the past 2.5 months so keep reading and enjoy these adventures.  

We left the Rowa Islands which are part of the Banks Island Group in Northern Vanuatu on a bright, beautiful sunny day.  Our goal was to arrive Majuro in 9-10 days.  We hired a weather router, engaged the Passage Guardian, and had our very good friend, Donald feeding us weather updates daily.

Our weather gurus picked a fairly benign weather window knowing we would have at least 2-3 motor days.  We decided to take this window because the SPCZ would be fairly calm.  This is good as it is known for being a center for thunderstorms and unsettled weather.  We did not want any of that on our watch.

Day 1

Our first day brought us really nice winds, low seas and a slight current in our favor.  We were able to sail for the first 6-hours before the wind died and we ended up motor sailing the rest of the night.

  • Fish:  Caught and released a Skip Jack Tuna and a blue marlin
  • Miles Travelled:  130nm
  • Avg. Speed: 5.4kt and max speed: 9.7kt

This marlin gave Matt a really hard time, but we finally got the hook out of his mouth and released him to the sea.  Our freezers were full and could not accommodate this big fish.

Day 2 & 3

Talk about “low wind” days.  We had glassy waters out in the middle of the South Pacific  Crazy how calm the seas were.  We did something that we have never done before – we flew the drone off our moving boat.  Taking off and flying were easy, but the landing was a bit of challenge.

  • Fish:  caught another blue marlin, but this guy was able to do water dancing which wiggled the hook out of his mouth.
  • Miles Travelled:  130nm each day
  • Avg. Speed: 5.5kt and max speed: 9.7kt

We did manage to get a few periods of sailing and it was glorious!  We were full sail, pinching hard to the wind and making good progress at 7-8kts.

  • Fish:  No fish
  • Miles Travelled:  130nm
  • Avg. Speed: 5.4kt and max speed: 9.7kt

Crossing the Equator

Matt and I have crossed the equator once before so there were no “rituals” but we did enjoy seeing the Latitude go to zero.  We left the southern hemisphere and are now in the northern hemisphere.  Whoop Whoop!

The good thing about rain storms are the gorgeous rainbows that follow.

Playing Dodge Squall and Dodge Boats

What a pain in the arse.  We encountered 6 different fishing fleets.  The fleet consists of 6-8 fishing boats and their individual FADs (fishing aggregating device), and a mother ship.  Most had AIS tracking on but a few did not.  It required constant surveillance. 

If we are not dodging the fishing boats we are dodging the squalls.  Makes it an entertaining day/evening trying to avoid both.

We always hope to have a full moon on long passages but we certainly don’t plan around it.  However, this time we got lucky and had the bright moon during most of our passage.  

Of course the moon could not have all of the attention. The sun had to show off its beauty as well. My favorite images are those that have the glassy seas and the reflection of the sun and moon in the water.

Almost There, But we Slow Down

On day 8 we realized that we were going to arrive at the pass after dark. This is never a good thing when you are not familiar with the pass or its conditions.  So, we decided to slow down.  We would miss daylight hours by 2 lousy hours.  Why is this a big deal?  Well had we arrived 2 hours earlier we could be at the anchorage and enjoying a solid night sleep.  But instead we are out at sea for an additional 24 hours.  

We ended up dropping the sails and shutting the engines off.  Sugar Shack just drifted for 7 hours.  We have never just drifted on a passage or anytime for that matter.  We still maintained our watch schedule and had all of our alarms set.

Our first sighting of land.

As we arrived to the main pass we noticed 3 large fishing vessels waiting to enter as well.  They had to wait for a pilot boat so we stood off to the side to let them enter first.  Funny to be in a traffic jam on this remote island.

Summary

  • Total Miles Travelled: 1,339.22
  • Total Hours: 240
  • Average boat speed: 5.5kt
  • Max boat speed: 10.4kt
  • Hours Motoring:  136 hours or 5.6 days
  • Fish:  We caught and released (1) skip jack tuna and (2) blue marlin
  • Books:  11 books read (Christine)
  • Movies:  2 movies (Christine)

Formalities

The officials, Customs, Immigration, and Biosecurity came onboard Sugar Shack and it was truly the easiest clearance process we have ever experienced.  They were incredibly friendly and efficient, asked a few questions, signed a few forms and stamped our passports.  Sweet As!

The officials clear us in to the country with the easiest formalities yet!  Super nice group, a wonderful welcome!

Even though we motored more than we ever have on a passage, this was still considered a good trip.  We would much rather have no wind and calm conditions than face massive thunderstorms, squalls, and bad sea conditions.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This passage occurred from 9/15-9/25.  The previous blog posts was written by Matt during our passage.  Prior to our passage, our last blog post highlighted the Banks Islands.

Vanuatu Bamboo Pipe Drums

There were rumors of a few islands that put on musical performances playing bamboo pipe drums.  We saw a video and it quickly got on our list as a “must do item” in Vanuatu.  The problem was we were not sure which anchorage or island played this unusual performance.

We decided to have a nice dinner one night while we were anchored at Peterson Bay, Santo Island.  We headed to Turtle Bay Resort which is a lovely resort, with super delicious food and reasonable prices.   To our surprise they had a band playing so we sat back, enjoyed our dinner, and awaited the mystery band.

Imagine our joy when 11 men came in carrying bamboo pipe drums followed by 4 female dancers!  Sweet as!!!!!

Bamboo Pipes

Bamboo Pipes

Bamboo Pipe Drums

We were not really sure what to expect.  Will it be enjoyable and entertaining?  Can you listen to a band play bamboo pipes for more than a few minutes without being “bored”?  The answer to all of those questions is a resounding, yes, yes, and yes!

Sorry for the weird colors in the photos, but the resort had colored lights.

They had drummers that ranged in ages from 9 to 50+.  The interesting thing is that the band rotated instruments throughout the night.  They did not stay with one set of bamboo pipes.  

There were 6 bamboo pipe drums, each with varying lengths of bamboo and each making unique musical notes.  

One person played a set of bamboo pipes like a flute, blowing into each culm creating beautiful baritone or base notes. And another person played the bag (for lack of better words). Inside the bag were a lot of nuts and they would lift and squish the bag making a marvelous sound.

What do Bamboo Pipes Consist of?

The bamboo culm (stem) is latched with vines and expertly organized by its sound.  One resort guest went up and asked to play (he was not so good).  But the guest asked the performer for “e” and believe it or not he pointed to a specific bamboo pipe!

The paddles are made of used, yellow floats that are carved up, shaped and attached to sticks to pound onto the pipes.  Talk about a great way to reuse these floats that end of up littering the beaches!

One of the dancers managed to get me out to the dance floor.  Not sure my Lake girl skills were helpful at this time 🙂

Matt and I had such an amazing time!  We really thoroughly enjoyed the bamboo pipe band!  The music was played with enthusiasm and joy and was truly fantastic.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We saw the Bamboo Pipe Band at Turtle Bay Resort on 10 August 2024.  We finally found an adventure trail that almost wipes me out – the Millennium Cave Adventure — check out the blog post here.

Vanuatu Blue Holes

Vanuatu boasts of having more blue holes than anywhere else in the world.  So it is no surprise that we wanted to visit a few during our stay.  We were lucky enough to visit 3 and each were very different yet so very similar in their outstanding beauty.

Note:  This is a long post because I wanted to include all three blue holes: Malo, Matevulu, and Riri.  Funny enough, we visited the blue holes in the same order as they are listed here from beautiful, to stunning, to exquisite.  Matt’s favorite was the Riri blue hole because they had a nice wooden deck.  However, my favorite was the Matevulu blue hole because of the varied colors and amazing river journey to get to the hole.

What is a blue hole?

In Vanuatu, the blue holes are created due to its unique geology.  Water from the island’s volcanic mountains, over 30km away, flow underground into limestone caves.  These caves corrode and create an underground stream.  Eventually, the streams resurface as freshwater springs, or what is known as a blue hole.  The crystal-clear water meanders from each blue hole to the sea.  The waters are incredibly clear, creating a dazzling luminescent effect that seems almost too perfect to be natural.

Espiritu Santo is home to more blue holes than any other island. The water draws its incredible azure color from the minerals and limestone rock, creating a veritable oasis in the forest.

Malo Blue Hole

The first blue hole we visit is called the Malo Blue Hole.  We anchored at Ratua Island and took the dinghy across the Segund Channel to the river opening.  It took us about 10 minutes to dinghy up the crystal-clear river to Lake Malo.  

River to Lake Malo

River to Lake Malo

There were a gazillion sand dollars in the river. I mean it was a treasure trove.  They were all dead, but still so very beautiful.  Only a few made it back to Sugar Shack with me. Lake Malo was full of sting rays and bird life surrounding the turquoise waters.

We continue down a smaller and more shallower river which opens into the rarely visited Malo Blue Hole.  It is so calm and peaceful here.  The mirror image of the lush forest on the water took our breath away!  Pure solitude and bliss.  The water is more turquoise, but stunning none the less.

Here is our track into Lake Malo and then into the Malo Blue Hole.

Here is a drone shot which shows Ratua (top photo, small island) the dark blue water is the Segund channel, then the lake (which runs off the edge of the photo), then the small blue hole (can you see Sweetie in the blue hole?)

Not the best photo of us as it was into the sun, but you know what we look like 🙂

Malo Island’s blue hole is a true swimming sanctuary and rarely visited (especially if there are no guests at Ratua Island Resort).  Deep and refreshing, this is considered one of the more natural of Santo’s blue holes.  There are no services, toilets, or man-made structures here.

Matevulu Blue Hole

We slowly wandered up the twisty river to Vanuatu’s largest and deepest (18m deep) blue hole called Matevulu. The red arrow is Sugar Shack in the Peterson Bay Lagoon.  We took Sweetie up the long zig-zagging river to the Matevulu Blue Hole.  In the bottom photo, the drone was 120 meters high and yet you can still see the bottom.

The slow trip upriver was an experience in itself as we floated across the transparent waters under the canopy of lush green trees.  This river had bright green floating plants on the river’s edge.  It felt like Sweetie was overing over the water.

This is by far the prettiest river leading to a blue hole.  

Matevulu Blue Hole

The first thing you see is the amazing water, then you see the welcome center on the shore.  It costs 1,000vt ($8USD) which you put into an “Honesty Box.”  They have restrooms and a few sitting and lounge areas.

It is simply unbelievable how clear this water is!  The water is about 2′ above the cement platform (top left photo).

Once we arrived to the blue hole we noticed a giant rope swing tied to a large banyan tree and a large slide.  Of course we had to do it all!  The slide required a bucket full of water before sliding down the extra large pipe.

My hands are still in recovery so I skipped the rope swing, but Matt had a go at it.

The tallest rope swing is off the banyan tree where they “propped” a ladder up against its side.

The left photo is taken half under water and yet it is still clear.  Keep in mind that this is 18 meters deep!  And you can still see the bottom.

Sweetie looks like she is just hovering in mid-air….

The only bummer part of this hole is the destroyed cement structures that have fallen into the pool.  Previously, used to get in/out of the water and also as a sun bathing area.  It’s a shame as it is a detractor, but the rest of the beauty still overshadows it.

Riri Blue Hole

Known as the prettiest blue hole in all of Vanuatu. The paddle along the translucent Riri River into the entrance lagoon is like a portal to another world.  Utter perfection for steamy eye gazing and languid soaks.

The river to the Riri blue hole is much shorter and lined with mangroves.  As you can see from the image below, we enter from the upper right corner, to a wide “lake” and then start down the river to the blue hole.

Paddling up the entrance lagoon and crystal river is nothing short of magical!  The Matevulu and Riri rivers are much bluer than the Malo river leading to the holes.  

The colors literally take your breath away.  It is amazing to me that you can see so clearly to the bottom knowing it is fairly deep.  Riri is much smaller than Matevulu, but impressive!  A large fallen tree draws your attention, wish it could be removed.

It is a kaleidoscope of colors and immediately pulls you into its beauty.

Matt finds the rope swing and makes a spectacle of himself.  

I find pure joy just floating in this gorgeous oasis.

The locals have gone to a lot of effort to provide platforms, bathrooms and changing areas to make this blue hole easily accessible. Cost is 1000vt per person or 500 vt for kids.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited the blue holes in the month of August 2024.  We kill it on our fast run to Luganville to run a million errands in our last blog post.