Tag Archives: turtles

Ratua Island: A Private Resort

To get to Ratua Island you have to traverse the tricky Segund Pass.  This is a long pass that runs between Aore island and Malo island.  The current can rip through here up to 5kts and if you don’t time it properly it can be very treacherous.  On top of the fast current there are several reefs that make the channel even more challenging to navigate.

We thought we timed it properly, but alas we were off.  Sugar Shack traveled from east to west during falling or low tide (which is when we were “supposed” to go).  We ended up seeing 4kts of current against us, but we had total control of the boat the entire time. We took it slow and easy and arrived safely.

Later we researched and discovered that the tide runs west to east on the falling or low tide (which is why it was against us).  It runs east to west on the rising tide or high tide.  The best time to go is 2 hours before high or low tide when the current drops down to 2-3kts.  Lesson learned which will help on our departure.

You forget all about the entrance, once inside the beautiful bay.  We drop the hook next to a bommie and were startled to see it move!  It was a large turtle.  This lagoon is filled with dozens of large turtles!

Ratua Island Resort

Ratua Island is owned by the Ratua Island Foundation which also runs the beautiful Ratua Island Resort.  Some of the profits from the resort help fund the foundation whose goal is to educate children across Vanuatu.  

The owners, Brett and Leah have had a rough time of it.  The Kiwis bought the island in 2016 and enjoyed the business for a few years.  Then covid hit and closed it all down.  Shortly after covid, cyclone Harold hit and destroyed all of the main buildings and many of the bungalows.  It took them 4 years to rebuild and they reopened in Dec. 2023.

But then the local airline that brings their guests to the remote island went bankrupt so they had to shut down again in April 2024 (about 4 months after the re-opened).  When we arrived, they had been closed to guests but still allowed us to come to shore, to enjoy the facilities, have many cocktails and a few very delicious dinners.  Hopefully, they will be able to reopen soon once the airline get’s up and running again.

Above, is the main house with the dining hall, bar, and casual seating area.  I am posing near the airport waiting area and a tam tam.

Ratua Island

They have 11 beautifully cared for horses.  They are so very gorgeous and well loved!  The resort offers horseback riding tours around the island and swimming with the horses.  They also have a spa, kayaks, paddle boards, and snorkel gear for rent and do tours to the Malo blue hole.

Blue Hole

We will be visiting several blue holes so I will do one blog on all three.  So stay tuned.  But just to give you a taste…In the top photo, the top body of water is the Segund channel, then the middle body of water (that goes off the left side) is Lake Malo, and the small body of water (can you see us in Sweetie) is the Malo blue hole.

I realized that I spelled Ratua incorrectly in the picture collages after the fact…please note that the island, the resort and the foundation are all spelled Ratua.

Our blogs run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog occurred in early August 2024.  We hide from the world at Aore Island in our last blog post….

Resting turtle

Turtle Diving in Mo’orea

Diving in Mo’orea brings us up close and personal with over a dozen turtles and many curious fish.   It had been a long time since I dove.  Like almost 3.5 years, since Galapagos.  I was more than a bit anxious, but I was diving with Matt and two of our friends who each have hundreds of dives and safety certifications.  Our goal was to find Rachel’s friend “Sonny” who is a racoon butterfly fish and a turtle or 12.

We load all the dive gear in Sweetie and head to the pass.  There are a few floats to tie our dinghies.  We jump in and my stomach is full of butterflies.  We descend slowly and I can see the coral bottom clearly.  It is not far, maybe 20 meters (60’).  Once I remember to stop exhaling through my nose, I get a little more comfortable.  The air exhaled through my nose caused my mask to separate from my face which leaked water down my cheeks.  It was a back and forth I played with my mask before I figured it out.  Yep, a little out of practice.

Sonny immediately comes out to join us.  He is a raccoon butterfly fish that Rachel met 2 years ago.  Every time she dives this spot, she has an interaction with him.  It is really quite amazing to see their relationship in person as I’ve watched it blossom on her Instagram account (moore_rachel).  He is a curious little guy and thoroughly checked out Matt before returning to Rachel.

Turtles, Turtles, Turtles everywhere

We don’t have to swim far to spot our first turtle as they are everywhere!  They are perched on top of the coral…see the yellow fish hiding under his back flipper?

Just hanging out, resting

Resting their little heads on top of the coral as if it were a comfy pillow


This just doesn’t look comfortable to me…but he is clearly in the “zone.”

Resting turtle

Resting turtle

Some blend in with the coral

And others sandwich themselves under the coral. I wonder how he will get out of this predicament?

We caught a few as they were heading up to get a sip of air.

We also come across a beautiful porcupine puffer who seemed to be challenging Matt.

Rachel and Josh from Agape (Voyages of Agape).

Rachel and Josh, Agape

Rachel and Josh, Agape

You might remember my blog about the very special Turtle Sanctuary, Te Mana O Te Moana.  They rescue turtles from all over French Polynesia.  I wonder if any of these beauties are around as a result of their rescue mission.

We jam Cruiser style in our last blog.  Events from this blog post occurred the end of September.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Te Mana O’ Te Moana: Turtle Sanctuary

We visit French Polynesia’s turtle Sanctuary, Te Mana O’ Te Moana located on the grounds of the Intercontinental Hotel on Mo’orea.  The actual hotel is closed due to covid, but the sanctuary is open on Wednesdays from 10:00am-12:00n.  So, we made a reservation and headed to shore.

I won’t bore you with the details, but we were scolded for being dropped off directly at Te Mana O’ Te Moana which was forbidden.  Better to ask for forgiveness I said 🙂

Te Mana O’ Te Moana

The clinic was created in 2004 with financial help from the local government.  They have helped over 500 turtles since their opening.  Their main goal is to shelter, heal, and release all possible turtles into the wild.

Currently, 25 turtles reside at the clinic.  They have 6 infants, 14 juveniles, 1 one blind turtle, 1 turtle who swims in circles, and 3 that can’t dive.  The clinic shelters and treats found sick, wounded, mutilated, or seized turtles.  They see four species: green, hawksbill, loggerhead, and olive ridley.  The turtles in house are only green and hawksbill right now.

Sea turtles are weighed, measured, and their shells scrubbed once a week. Growth process, and behavior will determine the date of the release.  Resident sea turtles are fed daily with squid, capelans, herrings and sardines.  Turtles that are recovering are fed less frequently and during irregular times with the hopes of teaching them to fend for themselves in the future.

About Te Mana O’ Te Moana

Te Mana O’ Te Moana is perfectly located in an area with strong natural current that allows for the continuous renewal of fresh water.  The clinic waters are 50 meters long, 8 meters wide, and 2 meters deep.  They have 7 enclosures:  one for intensive care and one for juveniles. The rest of the enclosures are for medical care.

Green turtles are the only major nesting species in French Polynesia.  They are named for the green color of the fat that is under its shell.  Green turtles are known for their meat and are still poached in the Pacific Islands.  The average weight is 150kg and average size is 120cm.

The clinic also has a few Hawksbill turtles.  They are named for its narrow head and hawk-like beak.  Their average weight is 60kg and average size is 80cm.  They are known as the prettiest of sea turtles because of their unique designs on their skin and shells.

Residents at the Clinic

One very large hawksbill turtle has a problem with swimming in circles – always clockwise.  Evidently he is “capable” of swimming in a straight line, but he choses to swim in circles which prohibits him from being released into the wild.  There is also a blind female turtle and 3 turtles who are unable to dive.   The clinic puts t-shirts on the turtles who can’t dive because their shells are not meant to be exposed by the sun for extended periods of time.

We enjoyed the juveniles or teens who have an orange color.  I just love how they rest their front flippers on their back.

Did you know during the first months of life, turtles are very aggressive and can seriously bite each other. The clinic has to separate the most assertive ones.

And of course the infants:

Mating and Building Nests

Males court females by gently biting the back of her neck.  If the female does not flee, the male firmly attaches himself to the back of the female’s shell by gripping her top shell with claws on his front flippers, often inflicting visible scratches on the female.

Females may mate with several males just prior to the nesting season.  Research has found that females can store the sperm of a variety of males and fertilize the eggs later in the mating season.

Females return to the same beach where they were born.  She hauls herself onto the beach where she digs a hole 12′ deep using her anterior flippers.  Then she lays between 15-200 eggs (depending on the species).  The momma then refills the nest with sand and returns to the ocean – never seeing or meeting her young ones.  Females typically dig their nests at night and it takes them several hours.

Each female turtle will nest up to 5 times during season.  She will take 10-15 days off in between each nest.  Only 1 out of 100 baby turtles will survive to adulthood.

First years of Life:

After 2-months of incubation, the baby sea turtle hatchlings break open their shells. Dig out of the nest (which can take several days), burst out of nest as a group.  The gender of the turtle is dependent on the temperature of the sand. Males prefer colder sand and are found near the bottom of the nest where as females prefer warmer sand and are found near the top.

The baby turtles proceed quickly to the ocean and swim several miles, for several days.  They will spend their first years of their lives in thick seaweed mats floating in the middle of the ocean.  This was previously known as the “lost years.”  Here they will have shelter and food until they are stronger.

After a few years, juvenile sea turtles swim to feeding areas where they will stay until adulthood.  Sexual maturity happens late in sea turtle’s life, between 20-40 years.

Of course, they have to survive the long transit from the nest to the sea.  Avoiding rats, crabs, and birds that like to eat them. Once at sea, they have to avoid the eels, larger fish and more birds.  This on top of fending for themselves, finding food, and swimming are all hard on a young turtle.

Te Mana O’ Te Moana checks and monitors nesting sites.  They make every effort possible to help the turtle population. If you would like to donate, please do so at  Te Mana O’ Te Moana.

In our next blog we visit a transparent kayak tour and the boys learn how to foil.  Did you forget to read our last blog where we did a death march through Opunohu Valley

Events from this blog post occurred during the first week of August, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.