Tag Archives: tropical storm

Passage: Dodging a Cyclone

Trying to find a weather window from FIji to New Zealand requires a lot of patience and faith.  This passage is known to be one of the most challenging and difficult passages in the Pacific.  Why do you ask?  It is because you have to cross 20 degrees of latitude forcing you to go through several weather systems.  

It takes a lot of strength to prepare myself for a passage – mostly because I know I get so sea sick and it just is not fun for me.   Picking the right window is imperative to having a safe journey.  So we rely on a lot of sources and professional help.

Matt constantly checks 5 weather sources including Predict Wind which has 4 models and Windy.  Our friend Donald is checking on Maxsea and we are working with a professional weather router and hired a passage guardian.  This is on top of the assistance that we get from being a part of the Island Cruising Pacfiic Rally.  

So, we are comparing a lot of resources and information to determine when we should depart on this passage.

Time to go, NOW

We started noticing a rather ugly system forming to the NW of us.  It looked like a cyclone formation but it was way too early in the season so we were flumaxed!  After watching this formation for a few days our weather router advised us to leave immediately as this system was forecasted to go over Vanuatu and then head straight to Fiji.  Hmmmm

The problem was that another, smaller system was forming to the west of New Zealand which would make for a difficult arrival.  So, we watched for another day, talked to all of our experts and made the decision to depart.

The Plan

Depart Fiji as soon as possible and push the boat hard to ensure an arrival by the 26th of October. It is doable, but not ideal.  So, we cleared out of Fiji on the 19th of October at 1330 with a few other boats.

If you remember, our passage last season from Fiji to New Zealand (click here to re-read it) took us 6.5 days and we had a fairly decent journey.  We left with 50 other boats and were very comfortable in the weather window we selected.

So, leaving with only a few other boats in between two systems was extremely nerve racking!  The plan is to “hammer down” and just get there.  The weather models were showing a slight detour to the east before continuing on the rhum line (direct shot from point A to B).

First 48 Hours

The first 48 hours were miserable. We were bashing into the waves making it pretty uncomfortable.  We reefed the sails and pushed onward into the 3m seas.  Yuck.

We headed more east than we wanted because the winds were taking us there.  We ended up going 90nm out of our way to keep the wind in our sails.  Great, love adding more time to an already long passage.

A sunny spot during our gloomy days.  Two birds landed on Sugar Shack and enjoyed a bit of a rest.  It is really unusual to have birds land on the boat when you are hundreds of miles away from land, but it has happened.  I think this is maybe the 3rd time it has happened to us in all of our travels over the last 13 years!  

This little bird landed first and just sat at the helm.  I think he wanted to take the helm from Matt.

The second bird came a few days later when the weather eased up a bit.  It was a red foot boobie and he/she stayed with us for well over 16 hours.

On the one hand it is cool to have proof of life but on the other they poop everywhere!  We tried to shoo him away, but darn if he didn’t keep coming back.  So, we just left him there and hoped the big seas would wash his poop away.

Burning a Lot of Diesel

After two crappy days, we covered 330nm. Not a horrible start, but nothing to brag about that is for sure.  Then we were blessed with a couple of nice sailing days.  The sun was out, the seas were more consistent and came at longer intervals (still 2.5m) and we were pointing closer to the rhum line.  The down side was that we had wind on the nose which meant we had the motors on.  We fully anticipated motoring a lot on this trip as we needed to arrive before the system.  We motor sailed a lot trying to get the most out of each power source.

Matt doing a jig because the skies are blue (he is wearing his dry suit!).

During one of our particularly nice sailing periods we had a breakage.  One of our rail cars for our jib sheet decided it was done and popped off.  It made a horrible noise which forced us to jump up rather quickly.  Luckily the sheet was on the wench and Matt was able to secure a “fix” using dynema.  Not a permanent solution, but it will work until we can get a new part.

The top left is the working rail car on port side and the rest of the photos are the damaged and temproarily fixed starboard car.

A Few Good Sailing Days

We had several good sailing hours which helped lift our spirits.

And a few really beautiful sunsets and sunrises while at sea.

In the mean time we are constantly watching the two systems.  The larger system on the NW got a name…cyclone Lola.  Her trajectory is over Vanuatu and then moving over Fiji.  The lower storm (not called a cyclone yet) is still being called a Tropical Storm.  But as you can see, lots of boats have decided to leave Fiji, Minerva Reef and Vanuatu to get to safer territories.   Keep in mind that the boats are miles apart – we cannot see any of them.

Cyclone Lola

Cyclone Lola is a little brat. Even though the main system is pretty far away from us it was causing some really weird wind shifts.  All we could do was hammer down and push the boat as fast as we could.

The top images shows how the cyclone forms, the wind strength and the direction.  The bottom two photos show how truly dangerous this cyclone is.

Cyclone Lola decided to head more SE and looks like it will converge with the Tropical Depression that was forecasted to hit NZ.  Wonderful!  I am sure you know, but red is bad, black is worse and gray is horrible.

Lucky for us we were able to skirt the outer edges of the storm and make it in to port without too much trouble.  We arrived in NZ on Thursday morning and were rafted up to our friends on Dandelion by 0900.  Thank God!

Formalities

We patiently waited for the officials to come onboard including bio security who took a ton of food, customs and immigration.  They even brought a dog onboard (that was a first for us) to sniff for weapons, drugs, and cash.  Look at his little booties…so darn cute.

New Zealand has very strict biosecurity rules.  We are not allowed to bring in shells, wood carvings, feathers and lots of foods.  Prohibited foods include all meats (cooked, uncooked, canned), dairy, cheese, nuts, produce, vegetables, fruits and more.  We had provisioned for three people to be at sea for 10 days.  Since it was only 2 people at sea fo 6.5 days we had a lot left over.  It is hearbreaking to watch them throw away perfectly good food.

But….we are super happy to be back in NZ and safely tucked in a berth.  

Pasage Summary

  • Total Miles, on rhum line: 1097
  • Total Miles Traveled:  1179
  • Total Time:  161.36 hours / 6.5 days
  • Total Engine Time:  72hours (YIKES)
  • Average Speed:  7.3kt
  • Max Speed: 12.1kt

Just some of our Tasty Passage Meals:

Matt prepared loads of tasty meals.  I was a little distracted and only got photos of a few dinners.  Below we have seasoned pork chops with grilled onions, grilled pineapple and mashed potatos.  To the right we have seasoned chicken fajitas with bell peppers and onions.  Bottom left is Matt’s famous bahn Mi and pulled pork over a baked potato.  Yummmm.

Our poor Island Cruising Pacific Rally 2023 Flag took a beating during our trip from New Zealand to Minerva to Tonga on to Fiji and back to New Zealand.  She deserves a rest.

All in all it was not a horrible passage and it certainly could have been a lot worse had we gotten caught in either of the storms. I am so grateful that we have such a strong and well made boat and a captain who takes care of both of us.  It would not have been such a favorable passage without the help of Donald, our weather router, the passage guardian, and Viki with Island Cruising.

My favorite shots…look at the sliver of a moon in the top photo.

Our blogs run 8-10 weeks behind live events.  This blog occured toward the end of October.  Did you catch our loast blog where we do all the prep work for this passage?

Tis the season – Tropical Storm Bret

Since we planned on staying on the boat during hurricane season, we researched our options because we didn’t really want to go back to Grenada again.  So history says, Grenada and Trinidad are out side the hurricane zone or box (terminology is insurance company dependent)   Basically if you intend to be outside the zone or box, the deductible stays the same, in side the zone the deductible percentage goes way up.   So we plan accordingly.  Our box, means we have to be below Latitude 12.5, which means the ABCs (Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao) are outside the zone and we are good.  So we made plans and high tailed it down to Bonaire by June 1, the official start of the season.

There was an early storm in the Atlantic that got the first name well before the season actually started, this year is predicted to be above average.  No biggie we are heading out side the zone.  But WAIT,  there is a new invest starting off Africa at 5 degrees, not to worry its a long way away.  A storm is first called “invest” and as it gets worse, it becomes a number, and then if it becomes a hurricane it gets a name.  Of course I (and every sailor) keep an eye on these things.  We watch and watch, then the Facebook heats up with discussions, then NOAA calls it an Invest, thats when it gets real.   The storm was initially modeled to go right over Grenada, but that’s outside the zone.  So much for the box.   Well sure enough its a low rider system and got a name, Bret.   Bret doesn’t really sound like a low rider name, there is not a lot of street cred for a guy name Bret that is a wind bag.   Bret took the low road across Trinidad, where storms never go.  It wasn’t a full fledged hurricane, but had some 50 knot winds.  The second named storm of the season is set its site on our chosen location to hide from the big wind bags.  Must be my magnetic personality.

Early NOAA predictions for Bret

Early NOAA predictions for Bret

Meanwhile back in Curacao where we are 2 days out prior to the prediction and since we didn’t have too much on the agenda, I started preparing.  Re-Wrapped the jib nice and tight, hadn’t done a great job when we rolled it on the way into Curacao.   Lowered the lazy jacks and tied the sail and sailbag to the boom and removed all excessive windage.  This boat has quite the windage without all the extra bits of awning, canvas, seat cushions, flags and of course anything that can fly away.  I pull out the spare anchor, clean the line locker at the same time, get the secondary anchor setup to drop.  Notice no other activity on the other boats around us.   So we had plenty of time to go on the shopping bus and chat with other cruisers, of course some have been paying attention, others haven’t.   Next day is the day before the night when the winds are predicted to arrive.

Hoards of activity now, canvas on other boats coming down, sails getting wrapped, second anchors being dropped.  Boats moving and looking for more protection.   The boat anchored to our port was close to a shallow spot and I was a bit worried when the wind went south of east we would be really close, but when we came back from the morning shopping run he had moved somewhere else.  Sweet now we have plenty of room.  Take a few more bits of windage down and relax and watch what the others are doing.  Watched 2 boats set the second anchor.  Hmm.. should I do that now?    Just a few more minutes a boat that had been anchored way way up in the front, started moving around and came behind us, that’s fine, but then he changed his mind and when in front, dropped his anchor and floated back way back.  Too close for comfort and I kept an eye on them.  Eventually they came over and explained that their windlass was no good but he dropped 50M of chain and a heavy anchor. Asked if I had more chain to let out to give a little more safety room.  Hmm.. we already had 65M of chain out, sure we can drop another 10M back.  I watched as he dove on his anchor to make sure it was set.   All seemed ok.

Flag wrapped but later removed and stored

Flag wrapped but later removed and stored

I took our secondary anchor in the dinghy and set it off our starboard and just about even with his boat, the first attempt with the bitter end still tied to the boat didn’t go very well, it never set and I could pull it in by hand.  Was getting all beat up in the swell and wind.  Wore my self out, so took a break this time grabbed sailing gloves and dropped the dinghy back in the water and went to retrieve the anchor.  The anchor itself doesn’t weigh much but I think there is 10M of 10mm chain that’s pretty darned heavy when you try to pick it straight up from the bottom, its 8M deep here.  Christine released the bitter end after I had all that aboard and I motored back into the wind and dropped the anchor again, this time it stuck at least I couldn’t pull it with the dinghy.  Gave the bitter end back to Christine to tie on the starboard bow.   Raised the dinghy and started the boat so we could pull up the anchor to the bridle to let out another 10M.  Oh my growth, what nasty stuff grows in less than 2 weeks in these waters.

2nd anchor and chain prior to setting

2nd anchor and chain prior to setting

On our shopping trip, we had purchased to cheap brushes, which earlier in the day I drilled 3 holes to attach them together – an experiment to help clean up the gunky mess.  Put 2 bolts on one end and tied a line to the other end so make a chain cleaner.  Think a Texas boot cleaner on top of each other and chain running in the middle.   Well  it worked okay not great but easier than trying to scrub both sides of chain separately… just move the one brush up and down on one side and the other does the other side.  So much better where you don’t mind touching the chain whiskers.    We dropped 10M back and adjusted the secondary anchor and all is good, we had room again.   Of course, I wasn’t going to sleep that evening anyway.   Dropping back 10M definitely put us out of the “approved anchorage”, but winds were coming.

Chain and line cleaner

Watching the NOAA site and various other weather sources, it was interesting when they called for a Tropical Storm Watch for Bonaire and Aruba, but left Curacao out.  Wasn’t until 8 hrs later that the “watch” was applied to Curacao too.  Curacao is directly between the A and B, I guess Curacao was showing their independence.

The start of the rain.

The start of the rain.

Pizza for dinner round 6pm, earliest the winds would hit would be 8pm.  Of course after dark, and that’s when it started.   Winds and Rain, at first its all good, everyone is staying put, boats swinging like a good ole ho-down, the music of course couldn’t be heard over the roar of the wind.   Had all our instruments set with various alarms in case I missed something.  First and easiest are anchor alarms, distance the boat moved, set on at 50M and one at 60M.  These are not exact unless you set them when you set the anchor position, but gives you a good idea on how far you are moving, be it left right or backwards and forwards.  Then also set the high wind alarm at 35knots.   35k proved to be to conservative as that went off time and time again, had to change that to 45k after we were pretty sure we were sticking in the same spot.  Somewhere around the first alarm, the new boat looked closer but its night and distance is hard to tell with the boat dance going on, I walked to the bow to get a better look and had to walk at an angle to keep balance.  Christine says he is drifting, I say I’m not sure.  Then next waltz we double check and he looks closer, then another alarm for wind, I’m outside watching and see the neighbor going forward??!?  Can’t hear the engine, not sure whats happening, then we swing again and he ends up broadside to the wind and whoosh he is now behind us with both of his anchors dragging.  Yes Christine was right, he was drifting, I had the Air Horn making sure he is aware he is no longer hooked.  We are still hooked but swinging every which direction.   Somehow when he drug, the wind direction had to be just right and didn’t catch our secondary anchor thank fully.  He drove around for a bit in the channel till he found a spot 5M deep and kept his engine running,  When he got settled down he called us on the VHF and apologized for any “concern” he might have caused.  We chatted a bit to learn that he was indeed set again and a pretty good distance from us.

Exchanging emails and texts with new local friends, who kept us up to date on what the local news was saying.   

Another catamaran was working the anchor from the other anchorage behind us, I could see the navigation lights going back and forth, looking for a spot to anchor in 40 knot winds and rain, they too eventually anchored in the channel.     I didn’t see this until the morning but another monohull had also anchored in the channel at some point in the evening.

Had turned on the radar on the boat and found a perimeter alarm setting that goes off when any radar blip comes within a given radius of you.  Perfect, set a ring of protection around the boat and on certain swings it would just alarm as I got close to our first drifter.  Checked the local Doplar radar and there was another band of rain and wind coming so stayed up till that passed and wind abated back to the 20s.    

All turned out good, we still have 2 anchors out while the winds are still blowing, but its back to the normal upper 20s.   Bacon and eggs for breakfast and slowly clean the boat and return some of the canvas and cushions to their spots.   When it slows down, we’ll try and retrieve the anchor from the depth and dislodge it somehow.