Tag Archives: taravai

Cinco de Mateo: Matt’s Birthday

Valerie played several Polynesian birthday songs over the VHF radio first thing in the morning on Cinco de Mateo (5 May).  Waking up to the beautiful melodies of the islands was a perfect way to start Matt’s birthday.  Sugar Shack remained anchored in Taravai longer than anticipated just so we could celebrate with Valerie, Herve and their family again (we were here last year for Matt’s birthday too).

We invited our friends at anchor, planned a mid-day BBQ and enjoyed a great Tuesday.  We landed onshore first and were eagerly greeted by Valerie.  She had made a typical Polynesian crown and leigh for Matt.  It was not only beautiful but incredibly fragrant.  He looked a little silly but he wore it all day (bless his heart).

It was great fun celebrating with all of our friends!

Chris and Fred onboard Sea Jay (American) and Ivar and Floris onboard LuciPara 2 (Dutch)

And the rest of the party crew…

And of course, Matt and I

Taravai Sunday Funday for Matt’s Birthday

Herve BBQ’d some pork ribs, made a tasty pork stew, and poison cru (raw fish dish).  We had tons of side dishes and I made cheesecake bites (with my last cream cheese) and a butter pecan cake.  Super fun.

Matt did the social distancing thing perfectly by NOT blowing out his candles.  He merely lifted the board that was blocking the wind.  We had happy birthday sung to us in multiple languages: English, Spanish, Tahitian, Mangarevian, French, and Dutch.

One of the local families brought pearls for everyone to consider. Gabriel has a pearl farm and a pension (hotel) in Rikitea.  He was so kind!  He gave three of us a few loose pearls.

All in all a great celebration on Matt’s birthday!

Celebrating in Taravai

We spent many afternoons celebrating our freedom after the quarantine.  All of the cruisers anchored at the Taravai village would go to shore to play volleyball and patonque.  It was a great way to get some exercise, get your heart rate up, and enjoy some community with others.  Thank goodness the locals who live here, Valerie, Herve and their kids Alan and Arique love hosting and playing games!

And lots of patonque

Many Happy Hours and Dinners

Everyone was celebrating happy hours and dinners.  Here is one of many nights  aboard fellow cruiser’s boats.  This one in particular was hosted by our friends Fred and Chris onboard Sea Jay.  They invited Valerie, Herve, Alan and Ariki to join us for a tasty pot luck.

ILOT MOTU-O-ARI

Located less than one nautical mile from Taravai is a little, uninhabited island called Moto O-Ari.  Last year we snorkeled on the southern side.  However, we never explored the little island.  With nothing but time on our hands, we had to remedy that situation.

We tied Sweetie up to a rock and tossed a stern anchor to hold her in place.  We scrambled up the rocky cliff and enjoyed a hike around the little island.  Sometimes there are paths cleared by other cruisers or locals.  Sometimes there is nothing but goat trails and sometimes there is nothing by wild.  This island was all wild.

We climbed over rocks, walked over dead coral, hiked up and down hills and hung off of trees as we walked all the way around the motu. 

Next, we wanted to conquer the two hills or large mounds.  They did not seem “that” tall but there were no paths.  So, it was hanging from cliffs by rock ledges or tree roots. Certainly, made it interesting.  We did have some pretty views of the bay.

Views from Motu - O Ari

Views from Motu – O Ari

Flour Celebrations

I know you are thinking, why would you celebrate getting flour?  Well, let me tell you.  Lots of baking went on at Sugar Shack.  We are not in the main island (where the village and markets are located) and have to bake our own bread.  What are we baking: English muffins, pizza dough, cookies, cake, brownies, banana muffins, and lots of bread.  All of these items require flour.

We had stock piled flour before we arrived in the Gambiers, thank goodness.  There has only been one delivery of flour over the last 3 months!  Yep, one delivery and it was small.  I was only able to procure 4 bags (1 kilo each) as no hording was allowed.  I was dangerously low and was sharing my woes with a fellow cruiser friend who helped me out.

My friend, Daniela who is fluent in French, worked with the local baker Phillipe.  He placed an order with his supplier in Tahiti.  However, his supplier was out of flour as well so they had to order it from outside the country.  Once the flour arrived to the supplier in Tahiti, it was placed on the supply ship and delivered to me in Gambiers in a 25 kilo bag (50lbs).   It took three parties, 3 delivery methods, and lots of help.  But, it was delivered for a grand total $15!  Both Matt and I were celebrating our huge score!  I spent the morning bagging and storing the flour in seal-able containers with bay leaves (to prevent weebles).

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies on Taravai

You would think we were smarter than the average bear, but sometimes, no.  After 5-days of constant rain we decided we needed to stretch our legs.  There was a hike to the top of the ridge of Taravai that had several ascending peaks.  We decided to shoot for the first peak and if we were feeling “jiggy” after that we might go to the next one.  Ha, that is funny because we did not account for the swamps which quickly turned us into the mud buddies!

It was Leela (Graham and Janicki), Pitufa (Birgit and Christian), and Matt and I.  We all met on shore at Edouard’s house.  He is one of the 7 inhabitants of this island.  He and his wife are the only people who live on the southwest side of the island and they have a huge property.  It is amazing to see the ingenious things they have done.  Edouard and Denise have the only home in the Gambiers that has a natural water fed source.  They have a pipe leading from a waterfall pool, down the hillside, direct to their home.  They also have a large solar panel system that provides all the electricity, and a strong breakwater wall to protect their home.

Edouard's House off Taravai

Edouard’s House off Taravai

Garden of Eden

Edourd and Denise sustain themselves with their bountiful garden.  They have a large green house that is currently being replanted, where they grow tomatoes and cucumbers. In addition, they grow sweet potatoes, lettuce, and mint.  They also have an abundance of fruit trees (pomplemouse, avocados, bananas, papaya, mangoes, lemons).  We each received bags of fruit for 1000xpf ($10 USD) which included a small stock of plantains, stock of bananas, avocados, lemons, and pomplemouse – a huge score for us!

Mud Buddies

Our friends on Pitufa knew of a trail that went around the Taravai ridge.  Thank goodness Christian led the group with a machete in hand.  The start of the trail was not actually a trail, but a break in the bushes.  We tromped through the knee-high grass and fallen trees right into a giant muddy swamp.  For the most part we could walk across the fallen trees to avoid the majority of the mud, but a few weren’t so lucky.  Janicky and Birgit became our first mud buddies.

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies

Spirits high, we forged ahead.  Under giant tree limbs, over rocks, through the bushes, as we continue to look for the “trail.”  It was a slow hike up because of the mud and slippery hillside.  In addition, whoever was in the lead had to whack the bushes to make a space for passage. Poor Matt became the lead whacker.

Mud Buddy Trail

Mud Buddy Trail

The other fun thing we had to contend with were the wasps.  They build their nests in the tall grass and bushes.  They were fine until we came through with the machete and our feet.  Several of us got stung which was certainly unpleasant.  We had planned ahead and brought several lemons with us as that takes the “bite” out of the sting (sort of).

There were several beautiful views along the way.  One was of the boats (the left photo is Sugar Shack and Yelo – both Catanas).  The top right is a view of the Taravai village and the bottom right is a photo of another island.

We finally made it to the “flat” ridge point, albeit wet and muddy.  The mud buddies made it!

Top of Trail at Taravai

Top of Trail at Taravai

We decided it was too wet to continue on and frankly we were too tired.  It was not terribly far or high, but for some reason we were all tired.  Total of 2.5 miles up 29 floors and 6,603 steps.    We tracked our trail on the way down, but the silly track is yellow on a yellow background.

Mud Buddy Track

Mud Buddy Track

We descended down the mountain with no issues but decided to take the beach route back to avoid the muddy swamp.  It was truly beautiful.

Paradise After Mud

Beautiful Beach Bath

Mud Buddy Track

We made it back to Edouard’s house where we collected our fruit.  He is a super nice, albeit shy man.  He only speaks French so our friends had to translate for us.  We were super grateful for the fresh produce and his hospitality.

Edouard and his girls

Edouard and his girls

Some pretty shots

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Moonrise

Moonrise