Tag Archives: taravai

St. Gabriel Church

St. Gabriel Church Repair

The St. Gabriel church is a large, beautiful church that was built in 1868 when Taravai had over 2,000 inhabitants.  However, now there are only about 12 people living on the entire island and most do not use or attend the church on island.  Partly because it is in serious disrepair and also because there is no parishioner to hold service.  When one of the locals want to go to church, they hop in their panga and drive 6 miles to the mainland where they attend service at St. Michael’s church. 

The found loads and loads of wood piled up inside the church the first time we visited in April 2019.  We later learned that the locals planned to repair and renovate the church — at some point.  We were surprised to see that the work had not begun when we returned to Taravai in January 2020.  The wood sat comfortably inside the church when we returned again in December 202.

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

Rumors of Repair

By February 2021 we had heard rumors that they were going to start the work on the St. Gabriel Church.  They had a huge fundraiser and the local government was ready to begin renovations.

There are about 12 people who currently live on Taravai.  Valerie and Herve live in the “village” and they told us that they would repair the dock, add two water drains (from the mountains to the ocean), clear the mountainside behind and to the side of the church, and then set up scaffolding and a work tent.  All of this work took about 3 weeks.

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

The plan is to replace the tile roof with a metal roof (cheaper and lasts longer), remove all of the exterior plaster (by hand), then begin work on the interior.  Makes sense as why work on the interior when the roof is in bad shape?

Volunteers Begin the Work

The local government decided it would be “best” to ask for volunteers from Mangareva (the main village) to work on the St. Gabriel church rather than pay the locals of Taravai.  Much to the dislike of the locals of Taravai.  We saw the first group of volunteers come over from Mangareva to Taravai to volunteer to work on the church.  Sometimes there are 5/6 people and sometimes 30/40 people.  The volunteers come over on the Tokani, which is a glorified people mover.  They primarily use this vessel to transport people from the main village to the airport which is on a different motu called Totegegie (5nm away).  The Tokani takes the visitors to the lagoon inside Taravai and then the volunteers transfer to a barge to get to shore.  It is a process.

The volunteers begin on the roof.

Roof work

Roof work

The installation of the roof was very interesting. Nobody is strapped or tied in as they work on the roof.  Next, they only use hammer and nails.  They don’t use bolts or screws or anything more substantial to hold the roof.  Workers nailed the support boards to other wood.  Then the volunteers nailed the metal roof to the support boards.  Hope there is not a big wind gust or storm because it does not seem like the roof is secure at all.  I am sure they know what they are doing as this is not their first rodeo but still….

Removal of Plaster

Another group of volunteers begin the work of removing the old, dirty plaster on the exterior of the St. Gabriel Church.  There are layers and layers of plaster on all of the four walls and the steeple.  Workers covered holes, cracks, and weak spots with layers of plaster over the year.  It was and will continue to be a slow process as they remove the multiple layers of plaster with puddy knives by hand.

Plaster work

Plaster work

Update on Church Repairs

Matt and I stopped by Taravai on our way out of Gambier. We had hoped to see significant repairs and updates on the church as it had been 6 weeks since we were last here.

Church repairs as of 1 May 2021

Church repairs as of 1 May 2021

Inside repairs.  They removed the pulpit flooring and removed the cross which had rotted.

They removed the cross with Christ as it was rotted – hope they replace it altogether.

Coming up next is the adventure of our volunteer day at the St. Gabriel church.

Events from this blog post occurred during February and March 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Taravai anchorage on a calm day

Polynesian Beauty

The Polynesian beauty can be found everywhere.  In the smile of a local, in the fresh scent of the tiere bloom, in the sparkle of a pearl, and in the setting of the sun.  It just seems to abound from every nook and cranny in this country.

Over the last two years we have accumulated several “imperfect pearls.”  Birthdays, trade, thank you gifts, etc…  An imperfect pearl can be one that is not particularly colorful or full of luster.  Or maybe it is marked or odd shaped.  Either way, there are loads of them around.  Technically, they cannot be sold.

One day I decided to see if I could put together a unique design using small pearls from my little collection.  I was super pleased to find 28 pearls of the same size.  I approached a local jeweler and asked her to drill them, and create a stunning necklace.  In the states this would most likely cost well over $2k, but here it cost me about $90.  I am super happy with this striking, one-of-a-kind necklace.

Polynesian Pearl Necklace

Polynesian Pearl Necklace

Sunrise and Sunsets

We are usually blessed with either a gorgeous sunrise or sunset.  We try to stop what we are doing to enjoy these magnificent opportunities. Sometimes we sleep through the sunrise, but most times we get lucky.

This is a sunrise over Aukena.  We captured it from the Rikitea main village anchorage.

Sunset behind Aukena

Sunset behind Aukena

Matt has such a good eye when it comes to photos.  He captured the same sunrise from the bow with our sail bag and solar panels.

Sunrise over Aukena

Sunrise over Aukena

At anchor in Puaumau, we have an unobstructed view of the sunset.  One night we captured a big storm cloud on the horizon just as the sun was setting.

Storm cloud on the horizon

Storm cloud on the horizon

The full moon rose to its glory of the motu of Puaumu.

Moonrise over Puaumu

Moonrise over Puaumu

Puaumu is a gorgeous anchorage that many cruisers don’t visit (for whatever reason).  However, it is one of our favorite anchorages with crystal clear turquoise waters, great snorkeling, fun exploring, and privacy.

INSERT 2 COLLAG OF PUAUMU

We had a break in the rain on a particular stormy day.  It was the “calm after the storm.”  Which created this beautiful Polynesian scenery  with calm seas and fluffy clouds.  

Polynesian Beauty: Taravai Anchorage

Polynesian Beauty: Taravai Anchorage

Lots of pretty tide pools around low tide that reflect the puffy clouds and showcase the young sea life.

Beautiful friends, new and old.

Me, Ruby, Eve

Me, Ruby, Eve

Our beautiful Polynesian friend Valerie, her new puppy PoPo and Roxy.  Roxy wanted in because Valerie was showering Popo with love.

Events from this blog post occurred during the last few weeks of February 2021.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind our adventures.

Polynesian Beauty

One way to move a banana tree

Hiking Across Mangareva

Mangareva, the largest and main island in the Gambiers has wonderful mountains, ridges, trails and paths to explore.  So, we spend a few days hiking across Magareva.

Pt. Mataiutea Hike

The first “hike” for the new year was actually a very gentle 7.2 mile walk along a road.  Good for me as I had not exercised in a long time and needed to ease into it again.  Even though it was long, it was mostly flat and very easy.  We walked along the main road which turned into a dirt road which hugged the coast line along the water’s edge.  It was super pretty, a little breezy, and just what I needed to start the new year.

7.2 mile hike across Mangareva

7.2 mile hike across Mangareva

7-Miles Across 3 Trails

We took Kirimiro to Taku (Pt Teauorogo) to Chemin Ramapiko.  We decided to tackle the hardest incline first so we started on Chemin Kirimiro (which is across the street from the best magasin on the island, JoJo’s).  It is a steep and consistent incline that leads you to Arc de Triomphe de Kirimiro.  Half way up the first part of the hike we had a beautiful view of the Rikitea anchorage.

Rikitea Anchorage-Half way up the hike

Rikitea Anchorage-Half way up the hike

Fun photo of the Arc where we have had the pleasure of visiting before. 

Matt showing off under the arc

Matt showing off under the arc

From here you can walk the ridge to the left or right.  You can also go under and through the arc and continue down to the small village of Kirimiro which is what we did.  Once we got to Kirimiro, we turned right and walked along the road for 2.1 miles until we got to another small village (meaning 3 houses) called Apeakava.  On the road we came across this local transporting a banana tree on a moped!

One way to move a banana tree

One way to move a banana tree

Further down the road, we came across a rocky cliff.  Matt discovered a hidden gem inside the rock’s ledge.  A baby boobie.

Baby Boobie nested in the rocks

Baby Boobie nested in the rocks

We passed several old ruins that were once mighty and majestic.

Old ruins around Mangareva

Old ruins around Mangareva

From here we hiked up and down the Chemin Taku trail which connects with Chemin Ramapiko and leads you back to another road.  From there is was a short 1.2 mile walk back to the dinghy dock.

Mangareva Hikes

Mangareva Hikes

Looking at the map below, we stared just below the little below the small, blue image of a ship, then walked up to Arc de Triomphe de Kirimiro, down the dotted trail to the white road.  Followed the white road to Apeakava (where the dots are), across the trail to the gold star and then back down to the blue image ship.

Hiking Across Mangareva

Hiking Across Mangareva

The French Navy Arrives

The Bouganville is a French Navy war ship that travels around French Polynesia ensuring the waters are safe for travel.  We had the pleasure of touring this fascinating vessel in Makemo (click here to read about the tour).  Our friend Stephan had alerted us of the Navy ships arrival and asked us to clear the channel of all cruising boats.  We did, but that was 3 days before they arrived.  The day before the ship’s arrival, two French cruising boats anchored right in the channel.  The French will do what the French will do.  The ship had to maneuver around them to get to the dock.  But with massive bow thrusters and fancy engineering they made it without incident.

The ship was only here for 1 day and did not allow for any tours.  Must have been a shore break for the crew.

French Navy Arrives to Mangareva

French Navy Arrives to Mangareva

Taravai Bound

We left Rikitea and headed toward Taravai to prepare for my birthday party!  It is always a serene and stunning anchorage.  We visited Valerie, Herve, Alan, and Ariki and procured lots of fresh produce.  Herve was being silly and strategically placed a rather large cucumber…. And we came across a humongous pig.

We were blessed with sunset that streaked across the sky.

Taravai Sunset

Taravai Sunset

Events from this blog post occurred in January 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.