Tag Archives: tahiti

French Polynesia Poly Magnet SSB Group

Absorbed into Tahiti

We had only planned on spending a week in Tahiti, but that was written in sand during low tide.  It is easy to get absorbed into a routine here.  Especially when you have access to supplies, marine stores, markets, and fresh goods.  In addition, you have lots of cruising friends to keep you entertained.  We ran into our good friend Barry on Adventures of an Old Seadog, Mike from “Easy”, Josh and Rachel from Voyages of Agape, Niki and Peter on Sailmore, James and Kimmie from Zingaro, Adam and Daniel from Reverence, and James from Moonrise.

Barry is always good for a million laughs and superb stories.  We hung out with him and Mike from “Easy” several times before Barry headed toward New Zealand.  Barry was in a slip at the Papeete Marina, so we often went into town and stopped by.

Barry from Adventures of an Old Seadog

Barry from Adventures of an Old Seadog

We “controlled” ourselves for the most part, but typically the four of us can be trouble..  From left to right: Barry, me, Matt and Mike (top).  Barry is pretending to be grumpy but he comes across simply adorable.

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Matt and I participate in the French Polynesia Poly Magnet which is a twice daily SSB net where cruisers report their position underway and share news and information.  Birget from “Pitufa” held a happy hour so that everyone could meet the face behind the voices.  It was really interesting to meet these folks face to face as we have been hearing their voices for months.

French Polynesia Poly Magnet SSB Group

French Polynesia Poly Magnet SSB Group

After our happy hour, we walked a few miles to a food truck park where we enjoyed tasty pizza, pasta and burgers.

Food Trucks in Tahiti

Food Trucks in Tahiti

Provisioning in Papeete

In between all the fun, we have worked on boat projects (see list below) and provisioned the boat.  There is a huge fresh market downtown Papeete.  You can get fresh goods, trinkets, souvenirs, and oh so much more.

Fresh Market in Papeete

Fresh Market in Papeete

We had not seen our good friend James since Panama and it was a real treat to hang out with him again.

James from Moonrise with Sugar Shack

James from Moonrise with Sugar Shack

Our friends on Reverence, Adam and Daniel invited Agape and us over for happy hour.  It was really nice to see their beautiful boat, a 58′ Tiana.  They are flying back to the states and hired a crew to deliver their boat back to San Francisco for them where they plan to sell her.

Adam, Daniel, Rachel, Josh, Matt and I

Adam, Daniel, Rachel, Josh, Matt and I

You can easily get absorbed into a routine in Tahiti.  We did not mean to stay almost a month that’s for sure.  But at least we were productive, had fun, and engaged with lots of people.  Being “absorbed” isn’t all bad.

Boat Projects Completed:

  • Starboard engine circulation water pump replaced
  • Starboard toilet joker replaced
  • Replaced two water hoses for the freshwater pumps in each engine room
  • Installed fuel filter on Sweetie
  • Installed windlass activation switch at Starboard helm
  • Washed down boat
  • Caught up on writing blog and scheduling posts
  • Recaptured and saved photos that were being deleted from iCloud. I now officially hate iCloud!
  • Cleaned half the boat waterline from the muck that grew while anchored in Tahiti

One of the SSB net boats, Winsome lost its engine and had to sail back from the Cook Islands.  We assisted them as they came through the pass and anchored.

Assisting Winsome enter port

Assisting Winsome enter port

This massive sailboat had the most spectacular dinghy.  Check out how the lines of the sailboat and colors match the dinghy.

Matching Dinghy

Matching Dinghy

The days got away from us.  Our routine absorbed us. But, we managed to escape and move on as we have new islands and a new archipelago to explore!

Lemberger's Visit Sugar Shack

Texas is in the House: Lembergers

John, Missy, and Carl joined us on board Sugar Shack in Tahiti.  We’ve known this cast of characters from Texas for over 2 decades.  They visited us in Costa Rica when Sugar Shack was on the hard.  And now we get to show off our home on the water. It’s so much fun to show them the beauty of our life in French Polynesia.

They arrived Papeete, Tahiti at 0600 after 24 hours of travel from Texas.  We shuttled them to the boat where we unpacked and got settled. They brought all sorts of tasty treats from Texas.  Those included a variety of Texas beers, Diplomatico, and Rose.

Texas Liquor Distributors

Texas Liquor Distributors

We made a plan shortly after unpacking and snorkeling.  Our goal was to make it to Bora Bora during their stay. Which means lots of moving.  First, we made a quick stop to the Papeete fresh fruit and veggie market.  We stocked up on fresh goods and a few Tahitian trinkets.

Snorkeling in Tahiti

A popular snorkel and free dive site was just off our port side.  A Cessna and two barges were sunk next to each other to create a unique opportunity.  At 8-10 meters deep and are just starting to see some growth.

Cessna Snorkel Site in Tahiti

Cessna Snorkel Site in Tahiti

We all enjoyed swimming with the sea life and posing for silly underwater photos.

Snorkeling in Tahiti

Snorkeling in Tahiti

We did not linger in Tahiti.  We quickly finished up provisioning and left Papeete for Point Venus.

Point Venus, Tahiti

This is a truly beautiful anchorage.  Very few boats, small village, beautiful views, and a black sand beach.  Missy, Carl and I went exploring on shore.

We found this enormous whale made of cans.  The outside (lower right photo) shows the cans painted white. The middle photo shows the interior with the multiple colors of cans.

Point Venus Adventures

Point Venus Adventures

We got photo ops near the memorials of Captain Cook, The Bounty, and the Missionaries.

Memorials of Point Venus

Memorials of Point Venus

After a short rain shower, we were blessed with a double rainbow.

Double Rainbow over Point Venus

Double Rainbow over Point Venus

MO’OREA

The next day we hustled over to Opunohu Bay at Mo’orea. This has become another favorite spot for us.  We anchored in 2 meters of clear, turquoise water.  The best part of this anchorage is the easy access to Sting Ray City.  It was hard to contain our excitement.  These majestic creatures did not disappoint. They let you get up close and personal.

Sting Rays at Sting Ray City

Sting Rays at Sting Ray City

It did not take long for our Texas friends to get comfortable with these creatures.

Touching and Playing with Sting Rays

Touching and Playing with Sting Raysity

They love to burrow and “hide” themselves in the sand.

Sting Ray Burrowing

Sting Ray Burrowing

Carl got this great shot of Sugar Shack.

Sugar Shack at Opunohu Bay, Mo'orea

Sugar Shack at Opunohu Bay, Mo’orea

John, Missy and Carl went on the Safari Mario Tour the next morning.  It seemed like they enjoyed exploring Mo’orea and the pineapple plantations.

John, Missy and Carl on Mo'orea'orea

John, Missy and Carl on Mo’orea’orea

While waiting for our friends to finish up with their tour, we visited the Hilton for some cold beverages and a little R&R.

Hilton Hotel Mo'orea

The next day we moved to Cooks Bay to show them the town of PaoPao.  And, to of course visit Allo’s Pizza.  A local teenager graced us with a beautiful gift of a flora lei.

Allo Pizza with a free lei

Allo Pizza with a free lei

Coming Up Next:

We do an overnight passage to Huahine.

Sugar Shack with Moorea Mountain

Mystical Moorea

Moorea is about 26-miles from Point Venus which theoretically would take us about 4-4.5 hours.  We started out with zero wind and 2 hours later we had 20-25 kts of wind.  There is definitely a strange weather pattern happening  – or locally called “maramu.”  Moorea was voted “The most beautiful island you have never heard of” by Huffington post.  Mo’orea was formed 1.5-2.5 million years ago from a volcano called “Calderia”.  The island is only about 10 miles wide and has nearly 18,000 inhabitants.  This island is known as the Pineapple island yet the legend has the local name as the “Yellow Lizard.”

Our destination, Cooks Bay which is a deep, protected bay surrounded by lush, sloping mountains covered in vibrant, green foliage.

Sugar Shack approaching Moorea

Sugar Shack approaching Moorea

The mountains only appear greener as you get closer.  There is a small village at the center of the bay and houses and hotels that pepper the waterfront.

Sugar Shack anchored in front of PaoPao

Sugar Shack anchored in front of PaoPao

EXPLORING MOOREA ON LAND:

Our first day, we walked to Paopao, found a mobile gas station, magasin (market), and a pizza place.

View of PaoPao bay from shore

View of PaoPao bay from shore

The next day, we docked the dinghy at the center of the bay and found the Super U market and  several small businesses.   Including, this eatery with an enormous bird catching a fish on the side.

Local artwork on Moorea

Local artwork on Moorea

Sugar Shack looking pretty with the mountains as a backdrop.

Sugar Shack with Moorea Mountain

Sugar Shack with Moorea Mountain

We decided to explore the island and search for the pineapple fields. They are about 2-miles inland and are located half way between Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay.  It was an easy walk along the paved road for the first 1.75 miles, then it changed to a dirt, muddy road.  But the majestic views made up for the wet trail.

The locals have grown pineapple fields throughout the mountains and they are spectacular to see.

Pineapple Fields in Moorea

Pineapple Fields in Moorea

Each pineapple plant takes about 9 months to mature, then one pineapple with grown in its core.  The plant will not bloom another core pineapple.   The plant will produce one pineapple closer to its roots every 3-6 months.  Pineapples grow smaller with each new birth.  The pineapple plant is dug up and discarded after the plants have produced fruit for 6-7 years.  Because of the relatively short life cycle, they have many fields in various stages of production.

Pineapple Fields on Moorea

Pineapples growing at various stages

We anchored near an old church with a red steeple.  So, we decide to find it on shore.  I didn’t find any signage on the red steeple church, but the one next door is St. Joseph Catholic Church.

Moorea - Cooks Bay

Moorea – Cooks Bay

Stay tuned for more adventures on Moorea as we explore the island in a 4×4!

Fun Facts:

  • There are over 2,000 variety of plants on Moorea, but only 200 are native.
  • The water is not drinkable on Moorea so the government installed five drinking stations where the locals can bring bottles to fill up with water from the springs.
  • The average monthly income is between 1,000-1,500 per month and that is only if they had a contract with a hotel or business that provided consistent work. This is staggering when you consider the cost of food is ridiculously expensive!
  • Moorea used to have above ground power lines that were mounted on poles made of pine trees. The mayor got fed up with replacing the poles after each storm and ordered all lines to be run underground.  It makes for a much more beautiful vista.
  • The local government owns all of the plantations, but 33 families actually work the farms, grow the plants and produce the fruit.

Shocking and True:

  • All of the islands in French Polynesia are slowly moving North West and are sinking about a ½” a year.
  • The lower the island, the older it is until it becomes an “atoll” like the Tuamotu’s
  • The coral dies when the fresh water from the mountains combines with the salt water from the sea.
  • There are 118 islands in French Polynesia, yet only 42 islands are inhabited.