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Ilot Moute

Exclusively Taha’a – La Pirogue

Taha’a is full of sorts of hidden treasures and gems.  In this blog we will take you on our journey of the coral gardens drift snorkel and we will explore a small, private hotel called La Pirogue on Ilot Moute.  We swim in crystal clear waters and I get attached by a sea cucumber.

Among many other riches, Taha’a is famous for their coral gardens.  We have had the extreme joy of swimming the coral gardens several times.  We just can’t get enough of the unique beauty.  Our friends on Agape did not have a chance to drift the gardens so we encouraged them to try again.  We each left Bora Bora with a heading toward Taha’a and met at the Coral Gardens anchorage.

The current was pretty strong when we arrived in the morning.  We tied up our dinghies, swam to shore and walked the beach to the reef.  We waited for the tour groups to get started before we jumped in. The current is strongest closest to the reef so you have to maneuver yourself quickly to avoid hitting the corals.  In order to get photos, you have to gently grab a piece of dead coral to hold on while taking your photo.  It can be tricky but exhilarating.

We found lots of sea anemones with little fish including a clown fish.  It is fascinating watching the symbiotic relationship between the fish and the coral.  The fish get cleaned by the sea anemone and in return the fish protect them.

Sea life at coral gardens

Sea life at coral gardens

We also found a little octopus, but he would not come out and pose for the camera.  The top picture is his head sticking out, the middle shows him hidden from us with just his eyes and one leg showing.  The bottom photo is a giant sea cucumber

Octopus at Coral Gardens

Octopus at Coral Gardens

Rachel took some great photos with her fancy GoPro:

Coral Gardens Taha'a

Coral Gardens Taha’a

Beautiful corals in Taha'a

Beautiful corals in Taha’a

The colors on the corals are so vibrant and pure.

More beautiful corals at Coral Gardens

More beautiful corals at Coral Gardens

Sushi and Wahoo for Dinner

Agape (Josh, Rachel and Nicola) came over for dinner.  Rachel caught a tuna and made sushi rolls and then seared the Wahoo that we caught with John, Missy, and Carl.  We had a pretty sunset and a full moon.

Sunset at Taha'a

Sunset at Taha’a

Locals were burning trash on shore which always looks horrible from the anchorage (top picture).  But, the full moon came to brighten the night.

Taha'a

Taha’a

Ilot Moute and La Pirogue

Nicola has a flight out of Tahiti in a few days so our friends needed to get going.  The next day they headed out of the pass and were met with severe weather on the nose.  Not willing to put up with the boat bashing and slow slog, they met us at a new anchorage on the Northeast side of Taha’a.  This will be a good launching point for both of us to leave towards Tahiti and Huahine.  Another cruiser had told Matt about a little island called ilot Moute with a teeny tiny hotel called La Pirogue.

Ilot Moute

Ilot Moute

La Pirogue is situated on an island surrounded by jade waters.  It houses 4 bungalows and can accommodate 8 guests at a time.  The owners live on a boat moored in front of the hotel.  Cecile runs the day to day operations along with her husband and a maid.  Cecile was kind enough to let us come onshore and partake in some libations.

Approaching La Pirogue from the anchorage.  Don’t you love their welcome sign?

La Pirogue

La Pirogue

It is a quaint and peaceful setting, with thatched roof, raked sand, comfortable seating areas.  Their weather station warms my heart.  Life is so simple here.

La Pirogue

La Pirogue

Gross Surprise!

It was pretty hot, so I soaked my feet in the clear blue water.  I was running my feet along the sand when I unburied something. A rock, piece of coral, wood or treasure?  No!  A sea cucumber who was so agitated from my rubbing that he launched his defense mechanism.  What do you ask is that?  He spits out his guts and intestines.  White, noodle things. By the time I realized what was happening they were wrapped around my toes.  I was horrified!  Rachel came and helped me out, but YUCK!  I can’t look at sea cucumbers the samw way and just did not want to touch them anymore.  After a dip in the waters, Rachel rinsed off under the coconut shower head.

Coconut Shower at La Pirogue

Coconut Shower at La Pirogue

We so enjoyed our time at La Pirogue.

La Pirogue Celebrations

La Pirogue Celebrations

We Celebrate Josh’s Birthday

The next day was Josh’s birthday!  We all went back to La Pirogue to park our dinghies.  Cecile had mentioned good snorkeling by the reef and we wanted to see it.  You could either walk in 2’ of water through the sea cucumber field or swim it.  Since my sea cucumber attack, I was hesitant to go anywhere near them, yet they were everywhere.  Thank goodness the corals were amazing or I would have climbed back on shore.

The corals were healthy and vibrant.  All inviting you to come closer and take a look at their little community.

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We found several Christmas trees nestled in the coral along with many gorgeous lipstick colored clams.  Check out this lizard fish sitting on top of the coral head.

Snorkeling near Ilot Moute

Snorkeling near Ilot Moute

After a great snorkel, we headed to another islet.  Matt and I explored this small islet the day before when it was packed with locals.  It has a cement slab and rebar arches and that is about it.  But, it was pretty darn cool to hang out on the rocks in the middle of the ocean.

Agape invited us over to celebrate Josh’s birthday.  Rachel made a really tasty turkey dinner and confetti cake with lemon frosting.  Happiest of Birthday’s Josh!

Josh's Birthday

Josh’s Birthday

Saying goodbye to John, Missy, and Carl

A Jewel to a Gem: Taha’a & Bora Bora

Taha’a is a lovely jewel of an island.  There are so many isolated anchorages, islets and motus to explore.  Our first stop was the Taurau Islet near Coral Gardens.  Matt and I snorkeled this beautiful pass twice before with Wayne and then again with Rocco and Lindi.  We were anxious to experience its wonders again.

Coral Gardens – the Island Jewel

We felt the current immediately after jumping in the water.  Hmmmm.  We had heard there was a current here which required walking on shore to the end and drifting back to the dinghy.  However, we had not experienced it.  Today, was different.  We tried, valiantly I might add, to swim upstream.  I was leading, with Carl, Missy, and John behind me.  We made it about half way before we all decided to swim to shore.  It was exhausting.   You had to be in full swim mode to move the slightest distance.  Not normally a problem, but it is too shallow to do full swim strokes – you can only do frog strokes/kicks.  Shots below are near a calm section of the gardens.

Coral Gardens with Carl

Coral Gardens with Carl

A short walk to the end.  We jumped back in and did a rather rapid drift snorkel.  You had to grab and hold on to coral to stop.  It made it hard to photograph the sea life.  It was pretty and kind of fun to drift back, but I missed all the sea life.  The soft corals and sea anemones were hidden and the fish with only in small patchy areas.  Our little jewel of a snorkel spot turned out to be different this time around.

Coral Gardens Snorkel

Coral Gardens Snorkel

Vanilla Tour Taha’a

John, Missy, and Carl went on the Taha’a Vanilla Tour with Noah.   It was super cool to share that experience with them.  I knew Missy and Carl would love the flora and fauna lessons. It’s impossible not to see the shimmery brilliance of this island jewel.

The crew jumped in for a night snorkel and explored a coral head off the back of the boat.  The green light brings out all sorts of critters.

Herb Garden

Missy has been helping me tend to my new herb garden.  We have basil, coriander and a tomato plant.  Carl found a half coconut with two eye indents and a small hole making it a cute little face.  It earned a spot in the garden

Herb Garden on board

Herb Garden on board

Passage: Taha’a to Bora Bora

It is a short 23nm from Taha’a to Bora bora.  The weather forecasted a downward wind pattern at 10-12kts.  Perfect for the kite (spinnaker).  As you might recall, we ripped our small spinnaker which is good in 15-20kts of wind.  The large spinnaker (Big Bertha) is only good in 8-17kts.

We had Big Bertha up and flying for all of an hour before the winds got too strong and we took her down.  It was a shame because not 30 minutes later the winds stayed below 15kts.  But we did have a stroke of good fortune.  As we approached the Bora Bora pass, we caught a 20-25lb Wahoo!

Wahoooooooo

Wahoooooooo

Carl, with a little help from John and Matt reeled this beauty in.  She will provide about 20 meals.  Matt has been hoping for a Wahoo for a very long, long time.  You couldn’t wipe the smile off his face!

Wahoo Reeled in by Carl

Wahoo Reeled in by Carl

Bora Bora – The French Polynesian Gem

We rolled into the Poofai Bay anchorage early afternoon.  A stop at Bloody Mary’s was needed after a restful afternoon.  A little internetting, cocktails and a snack and we were all jubilant.

Bloody Mary's Bar with the Lembergers

Bloody Mary’s Bar with the Lembergers

We had a relaxing morning after a tasty French toast breakfast.  Matt drove us around the tip of the island to the SW side. Probably not the wisest thing we’ve done as the strong winds were coming from the SW.  It was a wet and wild ride!  Better than a roller coaster and wetter than the log jammer.  He dropped us off at Fa’ a’oporo Bay so we could do a walk about.

John, Missy, Carl and I found the beach access and started toward it.  As our feet touched the sand, John noticed Matt sitting in Sweetie in the middle of the bay.  Not sure how we managed that – but sweet!  We all enjoyed a cold beverage (or two) and a tasty snack for lunch at the Bora Bora Yacht Club.  Talk about a beautiful view.

Bora Bora Yacht Club Lunch

Bora Bora Yacht Club Lunch

Matt took the dinghy back around the corner as it was faster and easier with one person.  The rest of us walked along the beach toward Bloody Mary’s.  We stopped at a little corner of the beach that was pretty secluded.  Carl swam while Missy and I collected sea shells.

Walk along Bora's coast

Walk along Bora’s coast

Missy and I went for a short walk and captured some beautiful sunset shots of the Bora Bora peaks.  Showcasing the jewel of the island – the sunset.

Sunset shots on Bora Bora

Sunset shots on Bora Bora

Saying Goodbye is Always Hard

It was time for our good friends to head back to the states.  Always sad to let go.  We had so much fun showing them around the Society Archipelago.  We visited Tahiti, Mo’orea, Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a and Bora Bora.  Lots of islands in a short time, but we did it!  Thank you, John, Missy, and Carl, for the amazing memories and good times.

Bora Bora Airport

Bora Bora Airport

Piazza's and Mitchell's

Uncharted Territory with the Piazzas

We returned everything to the boat after our provision run in Uturoa.  Mt. Tapioi was uncharted territory for Matt and I, so we decided to hike to the top of Tapioi which overlooked our bay.  The peak of the mountain is about 775 meters high and we took a well paved dirt road to get there.

Hiking Mt. Taiopi

Hiking Mt. Tapioi

We passed lots of wildlife including chickens, cows, horses, pigs, and hogs just hanging out on the trail.

Fun cows and horses hanging out on the road

Fun cows and horses hanging out on the road

We made it to the top in 52 minutes with lots of sweat – it was a hot one.  Check out Matt hanging from the rock (top left) and jumping over Raiatea (bottom).

Top of Tapioi with Matt, Rocco, and I

Top of Tapioi with Matt, Rocco, and I

The views were breathtaking and clearly showed the lagoon, reef, and Pacific Ocean.  On the bottom right corner, you can see Sugar Shack (past the little water hut and before the turquoise water)

Top of Tapioi with Matt, Rocco, and I

Top of Tapioi with Matt, Rocco, and I

Tiparmauo motu

Our last stop in Raiatea is a small motu called Tiparmauo. As we pulled into this anchorage, we passed a little pearl farm called “Perles d’O” and on the other side it said “How Born a Pearl – Free Visit” which was rather humorous considering nobody was home.

Perles d'Oh at Tiparmauo

Perles d’O at Tiparmauo

Exploring Uncharted Territory

We decided to hunt lobsters on the reef for dinner.  But first, we needed to find a way out to the reef without damaging us or the dingy.  First, we tried heading to the reef in Sweetie.  The waters shallowed up way to fast and left us far away from the reef.  So, we tired Sweetie to a tree and went exploring on shore.  Rocco made a friend with a little crab. We had to traipse over foliage, palm fronds and tree limbs.  It was no easy path.

Hunting crabs on a small motu

Hunting crabs on a small motu

It is a pretty island, but the lack of grooming made it a challenge to explore all around.  We stuck to the shoreline as we headed back to the dinghy.

Enjoying the beach side of the motu

Enjoying the beach side of the motu

Foiled by the lack of access to the reef, the boys took the paddle boards out to the reef.

Rocco and Matt Sup'ing

Rocco and Matt Sup’ing

Stay Tuned for more Piazza Adventures

We sail to Huahine, have cheeseburgers in paradise, and see some spectacular underwater spectacles.