After our lovely tour of the Fanla village we are finally taken to the nasara, their sacred site. The nasara is a 400-year old concept which brings together the surrounding villagers for special ceremonies.
It is a short walk through the forest to the nasara which is a wide-open clearing. This particular nasara is the only one used for grade taking ceremonies and the ROM dance. It’s unique and privileged status is highlighted with the mass amounts of tam tams surrounding it.
Tam Tams
What is a tam tam and why is it so valuable? A tam tam is a hollowed out slit drum that is placed in sacred grounds. They range from 1-4 meters in height and usually have the bottom portion buried in the ground.
They are a symbol of wealth, prestige, and are markers of one’s level of initiation (grade level).
The tam tams are made from large trees within the breadfruit family. This type of tree already holds significance to the villagers as a sacred, magical tree.
The Tam Tam Carver (Creator)
The process of making the slit drum is a very important ritual. There are many types of carvers in Vanuatu, but the ones that have the legal right to carve tam tams only reside in Ambrym. Carvers have to pay for the right to carve the design (or face). The fee of pigs and yams is very expensive.
The carver of a tam tam is also a sorcerer. He is responsible for imbuing the tam tam with spiritual power. Special measures are taken throughout the carving process to ensure that it is kept secret.
The tam tams are carved to honor their ancestors and designs/faces are unique to each carver. This carver pays for the “rights” to this design and is the only one who can replicate it.
Some tam tams are carved with more than one face. However, you have to be a high grade level to be able to carve a multi faced tam tam and it will cost you several valuable pigs. No tam tam is allowed to have more than 5 faces. Such drums are quite rare as the carver must pay extra in order to create each additional face.
We found 2 two-faced tam tams while we were at Atchin island (which is near the North tip of Malekula). It is such a rare find to come across a multiple face tam tam in its original environment. We are so darn lucky!
Here is a post by someone else where they have more multiple faced tam tams.
What is their Purpose?
When the carving is complete, a hole is dug about 1.5 meters and the slit drum is sunk vertically or at a slight angle. This will allow the drummer easier access to the drum during performances.
Tam tams are used during sacred ceremonies and they are used to send messages of birth, death, impending war, circumcision, meetings, and dance.
The rhythmic beating of the slit drums will shake the ground under your feet and can be heard for many miles. Matt did not attend the 2nd day of the Fanla Festival and was out on his SUP. He heard the drumming from the sea which is at least 5 miles away from the village in the mountains.
Stone or Lava Carvings
Stones have long been a source of magic in Ambrym. So, if you are lucky enough to find a stone carving it has extra special meanings. Stone carvings will usually cost more and are harder to find.
Often you will find special stones or rocks near the tam tams which represent the chief’s or elders ranking.
Stone or lava tikis are usually located near banyon trees to protect the spirit of the tree. Male banyan trees are sacred and tabu for women to go near. The banyan tree near the nasara had two lava tikis.
The festival had lots of carvings for sale and I was lucky enough to purchase the smaller, stone tiki below.
Wooden Carvings
Ambrym is known for its carvers and many of them live near Fanla. So, we had a wide variety of carvings to shop from. They had tiki statues, masks, necklaces, pig killing hammers, carving tools, and flutes.
Some of the work is really intricate while others are simplistic. The prices reflected the detail of the work but usually ranged from 2,000vt to 80,000vt ($20-$800 USD).
Here are several more stone, lava and wood carvings that were located around the nasara in Fanla.
Carving Demonstration
We were able to participate in a carving demonstration while we were anchored in Ranon. Starting from a round piece of wood, already shaved of its husk. He used modern tools like a hammer and chisel. He started on the face, then the ROM hat, then the top using a machete and a saw to add detail.
Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events. The Fanla Festival occurred in mid-July 2024. Fanla, an authentic kastom village tour occurred in our last blog post..
