Tag Archives: society islands

Marae Stone Temples in Maeve

Huahine: The Authentic Polynesian Island

A deep crystal-clear lagoon surrounds the two islands that comprise Huahine.  On shore you will find lush forests, untamed landscape, and eight quaint villages.  Green vibrant mountains are met by white sandy beaches at each of the numerous bays.  The interior offers a variety of cultivated fields including watermelon, vanilla, bananas, and cucumbers.  Huahine offers the true authentic Polynesia experience. Huahine is pronounced “way-a-hee-knee.”

There are four villages or districts on the big island of Huahine Nui and four on the small island of Huahine Iti.  Most of the inhabitants live a rural life growing melons and seasonal fruits.  The first evidence of colonization appears to be 850 AD.  The original name of the island was “Matairea” or “Happy Wind” and nobody seems to know what the name was changed.  Huahine is translates to “Hua” means “sex” and “hine” means “woman” in Tahitian.  This island pays homage to women as one of the mountains looks like a pregnant woman laying on her side.

Formation of Huahine

Thee distinct volcanic eruptions formed Huahine.  However, there are two legends that dispute this finding. The first powerful legend asserts that the god Hiro cut the island in half with his canoe.  Whereas the second prevailing legend states that Mt. Moua Puta (on Mo’orea) was pierced by spears during a contest among gods.  The pieces of the mountain then sailed 100 miles where it split Huahine in two.

Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti

Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti

There is a certain aurora on the island that exudes mystery and intrigue.  It is exceptionally beautiful and green, even on a hazy, stormy day.  We hunkered down a lot because we are still immersed in the “maramu.”  However, we did rent a car to drive around the island.  We preferred to rent bikes or scooters but the weather was such that those modes of transport would be no fun.  Our first stop was the town of Maeva to see the archaeological ruins called “marae”.

Stone Temple Mecca

The famous archaeological sites near the village of Maeva include the largest concentration of pre-European marae (stone temples) in Polynesia.  There are more than 200 archeological stone structures that have survived for centuries.  They include marae of island chieftains, dwellings, horticultural developments, and religious and ceremonial monuments.

Fare Pote’e

In the center of the village is the “Fare Pote’e” which means “oval house”.  The chief lived here and held community meetings.  Fare Pote’e was originally built in the town of Fare.  But when the missionaries came they destroyed it.  The locals rebuilt it in the neighboring village of Maeve in 1972.  They had to rebuild the Fare Pote’e in 1996 after a cyclone destroyed it.  The roof is reconstructed every eight years using local trees.   It takes the town a month to rebuild the roof each time.  The floors are woven into an intricate pattern out of bamboo that is soft on your feet.

Fare Pote'e and Marae in Huahine

Fare Pote’e and Marae in Huahine

As you can tell from the photos, we have had a lot of rain and wind from the maramu. I am sure this is stunningly beautiful on a normal Polynesian day.  There were lots of “marae” surrounding the Fare Pote’e but we could not access them due to the surrounding water (that is not normally there).

Marae flooded due to Maramu

Marae flooded due to Maramu

Stay tuned for more adventures on Huahine as we feed the sacred eels, brave the maramu destruction and visit a distillery. H

Safari Mario Tour of Moorea

Tour time!  We found an outfit called “Safari Mario” who would take us by 4×4 to the pineapple plantations, Belvedere Mountain, Magic Mountain, and a vanilla farm where we have food samplings.

Our tour guide, Ron spoke English, Dutch and German.  He was exceedingly happy and very proud of his rock!  The first stop was the very same pineapple plantations that we had walked the day before.  But this time we got a little more history.

The first stop was “the Bounty” which is a flat surface where they shot parts of the 1983 movie “The Bounty.”  We had stopped here yesterday, but did not know any of the history.  The beautiful mountain in the background is called Moua Puta or Princess Hei Ata and she stands 800 meters.  You really have to use your imagination to see her silhouette.

The Bounty at Moorea

The Bounty at Moorea

We learned more about the pineapple farming (inserted into Moorea post) and also about bananas.  The banana tree will grow two flowers.  The female will turn into a bunch of bananas while the male flower will hang low.  The farmer must cut it once it droops as it will cause a reduction in the size of the bananas.  Plantains grow up toward the sky (lower right corner) while bananas grow down (lower left corner)

Pineapple Crop, Banana and Plantain Bloom

Pineapple Crop, Banana and Plantain Bloom

We crossed over two small running rivers in our 4×4 tour truck and up the Belvedere mountain.  From the top you can see both Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay.

Two bays: Cooks Bay and O

Two bays: Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay

Our 4×4 tour to Magic Mountain was bumpy and twisty.  The mountain got its name based on the famous theme park in California.  Known for its twists and turns  One family owns all of the property around Magic Mountain.  They have built a “road” to take visitors to the top and another road to take them down at a cost of $2 per person. Not bad when you consider all of the 4×4 trucks, hikers, and ATVs that go up on a daily basis.

Safari Mario Roads Less Traveled

Safari Mario Roads Less Traveled

We had spectacular views from the top, but unfortunately it was hazy so the colors don’t show up well on the photos.  The first photo is looking toward the Hilton where a large number of cruisers anchor.

View toward Hilton Hotel

View toward Hilton Hotel

The next photo is toward the Intercontinental where fewer boats anchor, but more day boats visit.

View toward Intercontinental Hotel

View toward Intercontinental Hotel

Breathtakingly beautiful views of the mountains and neighboring villages

On the way back to town, we passed by a sad, but majestic monument for Captain James Cook.  The British and French are known for their dislike of each other. So, the French are not taking care of the British monument.  It was surrounded by weeds and trailers.  But, the globe, hand carved in stone showed Capt. Cooks three voyages: 1768-1771, 1772-1775 and 1776-1778

Captain Cook Monument

Captain Cook Monument

Our last stop was the Tropical Gardens where we sampled fresh marmalade and vanilla.  All of the tables were adorned with floral arrangements.  They had a least a half dozen Christmas palm trees (middle left photo), a pretty pond and a vanilla farm.  The left lower image shows the vanilla bean and the lower right shows the vanilla flower.  At this farm, they have to pollinate each flower by hand.  One flower will produce one vanilla bean and it takes 9 months to transition from flower to bean.

Tropical Gardens

Tropical Gardens

The entire farm as littered with blooming flowers.  The flowering leaves on the top left incorporates the flower into the leaf. The alien flower top right just looks fabulous.

Tropical Gardens

Tropical Gardens

Overall, it was a spectacular tour.  Ron was very knowledgeable and passionate about Moorea.

Sugar Shack with Moorea Mountain

Mystical Moorea

Moorea is about 26-miles from Point Venus which theoretically would take us about 4-4.5 hours.  We started out with zero wind and 2 hours later we had 20-25 kts of wind.  There is definitely a strange weather pattern happening  – or locally called “maramu.”  Moorea was voted “The most beautiful island you have never heard of” by Huffington post.  Mo’orea was formed 1.5-2.5 million years ago from a volcano called “Calderia”.  The island is only about 10 miles wide and has nearly 18,000 inhabitants.  This island is known as the Pineapple island yet the legend has the local name as the “Yellow Lizard.”

Our destination, Cooks Bay which is a deep, protected bay surrounded by lush, sloping mountains covered in vibrant, green foliage.

Sugar Shack approaching Moorea

Sugar Shack approaching Moorea

The mountains only appear greener as you get closer.  There is a small village at the center of the bay and houses and hotels that pepper the waterfront.

Sugar Shack anchored in front of PaoPao

Sugar Shack anchored in front of PaoPao

EXPLORING MOOREA ON LAND:

Our first day, we walked to Paopao, found a mobile gas station, magasin (market), and a pizza place.

View of PaoPao bay from shore

View of PaoPao bay from shore

The next day, we docked the dinghy at the center of the bay and found the Super U market and  several small businesses.   Including, this eatery with an enormous bird catching a fish on the side.

Local artwork on Moorea

Local artwork on Moorea

Sugar Shack looking pretty with the mountains as a backdrop.

Sugar Shack with Moorea Mountain

Sugar Shack with Moorea Mountain

We decided to explore the island and search for the pineapple fields. They are about 2-miles inland and are located half way between Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay.  It was an easy walk along the paved road for the first 1.75 miles, then it changed to a dirt, muddy road.  But the majestic views made up for the wet trail.

The locals have grown pineapple fields throughout the mountains and they are spectacular to see.

Pineapple Fields in Moorea

Pineapple Fields in Moorea

Each pineapple plant takes about 9 months to mature, then one pineapple with grown in its core.  The plant will not bloom another core pineapple.   The plant will produce one pineapple closer to its roots every 3-6 months.  Pineapples grow smaller with each new birth.  The pineapple plant is dug up and discarded after the plants have produced fruit for 6-7 years.  Because of the relatively short life cycle, they have many fields in various stages of production.

Pineapple Fields on Moorea

Pineapples growing at various stages

We anchored near an old church with a red steeple.  So, we decide to find it on shore.  I didn’t find any signage on the red steeple church, but the one next door is St. Joseph Catholic Church.

Moorea - Cooks Bay

Moorea – Cooks Bay

Stay tuned for more adventures on Moorea as we explore the island in a 4×4!

Fun Facts:

  • There are over 2,000 variety of plants on Moorea, but only 200 are native.
  • The water is not drinkable on Moorea so the government installed five drinking stations where the locals can bring bottles to fill up with water from the springs.
  • The average monthly income is between 1,000-1,500 per month and that is only if they had a contract with a hotel or business that provided consistent work. This is staggering when you consider the cost of food is ridiculously expensive!
  • Moorea used to have above ground power lines that were mounted on poles made of pine trees. The mayor got fed up with replacing the poles after each storm and ordered all lines to be run underground.  It makes for a much more beautiful vista.
  • The local government owns all of the plantations, but 33 families actually work the farms, grow the plants and produce the fruit.

Shocking and True:

  • All of the islands in French Polynesia are slowly moving North West and are sinking about a ½” a year.
  • The lower the island, the older it is until it becomes an “atoll” like the Tuamotu’s
  • The coral dies when the fresh water from the mountains combines with the salt water from the sea.
  • There are 118 islands in French Polynesia, yet only 42 islands are inhabited.