Tag Archives: snorkeling

Ile Makaroa – The Rocks

New island, new anchorage in Makaroa.  We left Mangareva and headed to the rocks.  There are three islands that make up this southerly set called the rocks.  All three islands are uninhabited and difficult to anchor near.  Our friend had given us some waypoints (locations to anchor) so we thought we would give it a try.

There is no anchorage near Ile Manui.  Ile Makaroa is supposed to be fine for a “day spot” only.  The water is supposedly deep and does not offer good holding.  But there is good snorkeling here.  The last island is Ile Kamaka which has a nice sandy beach.

The three rock islands

The three rock islands

With the current weather, wind, and swell we decided to try Ile Makaroa first.  We drove around looking for a good spot and found a decent sandy area in 6 meters of water.  We added 4 pearl floats to the chain to prevent it from getting tangled on the coral and sat it out to see how the boat sat.

The top photo is of three islands on our approach.  The bottom two are of Ile Makaroa.

It is a bit rolly from the swell, but we decided to stick it out and go exploring.

We decided to stay one more night despite the rolliness.  It is a pretty spot with super clear water.  It is really amazing to look out your window and see the coral at the bottom of the ocean.

Snorkeling in the Rocks

We went for a snorkel to explore the beautiful coral. It is spectacular to see so many varieties of hard coral thriving here.  Staghorn, tables and more.  We were visited by schools of curious fish, large and small.

There were several schools of parrot fish and a few varieties of other small fish hanging around to check us out.

There were also a lot of jelly fish.  Normally I am completely freaked out by jelly fish.  I swim backwards, sideways and out just to get away from them.  But these are not stinging jelly fish.  Matt showed me by touching the inside and outside.  I did manage to touch one on the outside and I was completely surprised at how hard it was!

No Wind Creates Havoc on Our Floats

A good anchorage is one with at least a little wind.  We want the boat to always face the wind to give us a nice breeze inside the boat, to hold the boat in a safe position and to keep her safe.  However, when there is no wind, we do circles and do what we call the anchor dance.  Not really a big deal when you are all alone in an anchorage, but when there are other boats or coral heads you are trying to avoid it can be dangerous.

Our floats decided that quarantine was over and they gathered in a group.    They should be spread out with 7-8 meters in between each float.  Even though they are technically still doing their job of keeping the chain off the coral heads, they should be further away from each other.  The top photo is a view from the bow of our boat. The other two are from underwater showing you how the floats work.

Anchor floats not doing their job

Anchor floats not doing their job

The bottom photo has them all touching each other – don’t they know about covid-19?  Ugh!

Managreva on fire

The False Pass at Tarauru Roa

On the southeast corner of the Gambiers lies two motus: Tarauru Roa and Gaioio. The wind shifted and we decided to move to the more protected anchorage of Tarauru Roa. We had never anchored in this area before and had to dodge many pearl floats on the way from Ile de Akamaru. Once we arrived, we determined that we needed to float our chain to avoid getting tangled with the bommies. Always a fun chore to add floats to the chain every 7 meters while setting the anchor. We finally set the anchor after a few failed attempts.

A very stunning sunset behind Taravai. Looks like the orange was just painted into the sky.

Beautiful Orange Sunset at the False Pass

Beautiful Orange Sunset at the False Pass

The False Pass

To the north of us is a “false pass” where there is a gap between the Tarauru Roa motu and Totegegie but the reef still creates a barrier between the lagoon and the sea. Our friends on Leela told us it was great snorkeling there so met them for an adventure. We drove the dinghy as far up the gap that we could without getting stuck during a change in tides. We then had to swim against the current to the “pit” where we encountered lots of black tip and white tip sharks. They have been trained to follow humans as they dive below the surface. The sharks think we are all spear fishing and they want the easy pickins.

A few new friends

A few new friends

We found lots of fun sea life in the coral and on the sea wall. Most wouldn’t sit for a photo session, but I was able to capture a few.

Snorkeling with some fishies

Snorkeling with some fishies

My little fish just loves hanging out near the bottom.

Snorkeling with some fishie

Snorkeling with some fishie

The coral was just starting to grow and come back to life. It was beautiful to see the brains, tables, staghorns and more thrive in this false pass.

Lots of cool coral

Lots of cool coral

Walk Around the Block – Tarauru Roa

Walk Around the Block

Our blocks are considerably different than yours. Just south of Tarauru Roa is the small motu Gaioio. Matt expertly weaved our dinghy in and out of the coral reef to get to Gaioio. Along the way, we found this boobie hanging out on its own thrown.

Now that is a throne!

Now that is a throne!

We wanted to walk around the motu along the coral shore. It was lovely, but a little challenging walking on the debris.

Rocky walk

Rocky walk

The center of the motu is covered in greenery. You can certainly tell the windward side (short bushes) from the leeward side (tall trees).

Windward vs Leeward side of the island

Windward vs Leeward side of the island

The view was considerably better as we got back around to where we left the dinghy. Back on sand. Can you see sweetie in the lower photo?

Finding our way back to Sweetie

Finding our way back to Sweetie in Tarauru Roa

On the uninhabited motus you come across a lot of trash. Primarily from the windward side (brought in from the sea). With nobody living here to clean up it is worrisome to see. At some point, someone made a plastic pile to burn and someone cleaned out a bunch of oyster shells.

Gross and Sad!

Gross and Sad!

Another pretty sunset. It looks like the island of Mangareva is on fire, but in reality, the sun set just as a storm passed by and it provided this awesome photo.

Managreva on fire

Managreva on fire

Tarauru Roa proved to be a peaceful and quiet motu that calmed our souls. With so much drama going around the world (covid19) it was nice to be completely disconnected.

Los Tuneles

Los Tuneles & Finada

We embarked on a boat tour today to Los Tuneles and Finada.  We were fitted for shorties (the water is 22 Celsius), boarded our small boat apply named “Diana Cristina” and embarked on the 45 minute ride.

Diana Christina Boat Tours

Diana Christina Boat Tours

About half way to Los Tuneles, we came across a lava vent in the middle of the ocean.  Super remarkable to see this miniature island sprouting from the sea out of nowhere.  Of course, plenty of blue footed boobies, frigates and other wildlife had already claimed this rock as their own.

Lava Vent in the middle of the Pacific

Lava Vent in the middle of the Pacific

Los Tuneles, also known as Cabo Rosa, are a collective of geological, large lava formations.  Ancient eruptions sent lava underground and they formed earth tunnels.  They collapsed and gave rise to these arcs over the water where you can clearly see vegetation that comes out of the rocks. These formations range from majestic bridges, stately peaks, regal caverns, and cavernous paths.

It is absolutely one of the most breathtaking places I have ever seen.  It is so hard to describe and the photos just don’t do it justice (click here to see professional pictures).  The waters are pristine, sparkling blues and greens.  When you look under a bridge, the light shines just so that the water blends from blues to greens.

Los Tuneles

Los Tuneles

We asked how old these formations were and our guide, Alexis Flores, V from Tunel Ocean said they make an educated guess by aging the cactus.  The cactus grows a few centimeters a year making them between 1k-3,000 years old.  He places the formations for which the cactus grows on to be 8k-10k years old.

Our captain expertly drove us through the narrow passageways, in and around areas we would have never thought possible and this was during mid-tide.  He does this in low tide too.  It was inspiring, beautiful, and awesome in every sense of the word.

Los Tuneles Paradise

Los Tuneles Paradise

Blue Foot Boobies:

Lots of wildlife inhabit this area including the super cool blue footed boobies.  The older the boobie becomes, the bluer his/her feet get.  When the males want to mate they use their feet in an elaborate dance to attract the females.  The boobies are spectacular fisherman, they can dive from extreme heights, and plummet deep into the water to feed.  However, on shore, they are pretty clumsy which led the Spanish to name them “bobo” which means “clutz, clumsy, or dummy” thus their name “boobie.”

Blue Foot Boobies

Blue Foot Boobies

We went on a walk about across the formations to find a boobie up close and personal.  They are such strange yet beautiful birds.   They have very expressive eyes!  We also saw their cousin the Nazca boobie which is a brilliant white bird.

Alexis had to pull us away kicking and screaming as we did not want to leave this little piece of heaven.  We took a group photo and headed back to Diana Cristina.

FINADA

We found a sea sanctuary minutes away from Las Tuneles.  Alexis told we had the chance to see a variety of sea creatures, but we had no idea what was in store for us.  We put on our shorties, jumped in the water and set off on an incredible underwater adventure.  Most of the swimming was in 1 meter of water so it was not very deep.  The clarity was not spectacular, but since we were in such shallow water it did not matter.

Alexis expertly showed us the amazing wildlife roaming under the sea:

A regal 3.5-4” sea horse,

Regal Sea Horse

Regal Sea Horse

Dozens of enormous pacific green turtles

Pacific Green Sea Turtles

Pacific Green Sea Turtles

Half a dozen white tip sharks

White Tip Sharks

White Tip Sharks

Golden puffer fish, sea star, sea snake, and schools of other fish

Cool Treasures of the Sea

Cool Treasures of the Sea

Spotted eagle ray and a massive marble ray.

Marble Ray & Spotted Eagle Ray

Marble Ray & Spotted Eagle Ray

We also saw a penguin swimming in the water for a split second. It was the most impressive display of wildlife we had ever seen – all within a 45 minute swim.

On the way back to Isabela, we dropped a line in the water and caught two yellow fin tuna.  Our guides kept one and we made dinner with the other.