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Vanuatu Blue Holes

Vanuatu boasts of having more blue holes than anywhere else in the world.  So it is no surprise that we wanted to visit a few during our stay.  We were lucky enough to visit 3 and each were very different yet so very similar in their outstanding beauty.

Note:  This is a long post because I wanted to include all three blue holes: Malo, Matevulu, and Riri.  Funny enough, we visited the blue holes in the same order as they are listed here from beautiful, to stunning, to exquisite.  Matt’s favorite was the Riri blue hole because they had a nice wooden deck.  However, my favorite was the Matevulu blue hole because of the varied colors and amazing river journey to get to the hole.

What is a blue hole?

In Vanuatu, the blue holes are created due to its unique geology.  Water from the island’s volcanic mountains, over 30km away, flow underground into limestone caves.  These caves corrode and create an underground stream.  Eventually, the streams resurface as freshwater springs, or what is known as a blue hole.  The crystal-clear water meanders from each blue hole to the sea.  The waters are incredibly clear, creating a dazzling luminescent effect that seems almost too perfect to be natural.

Espiritu Santo is home to more blue holes than any other island. The water draws its incredible azure color from the minerals and limestone rock, creating a veritable oasis in the forest.

Malo Blue Hole

The first blue hole we visit is called the Malo Blue Hole.  We anchored at Ratua Island and took the dinghy across the Segund Channel to the river opening.  It took us about 10 minutes to dinghy up the crystal-clear river to Lake Malo.  

River to Lake Malo

River to Lake Malo

There were a gazillion sand dollars in the river. I mean it was a treasure trove.  They were all dead, but still so very beautiful.  Only a few made it back to Sugar Shack with me. Lake Malo was full of sting rays and bird life surrounding the turquoise waters.

We continue down a smaller and more shallower river which opens into the rarely visited Malo Blue Hole.  It is so calm and peaceful here.  The mirror image of the lush forest on the water took our breath away!  Pure solitude and bliss.  The water is more turquoise, but stunning none the less.

Here is our track into Lake Malo and then into the Malo Blue Hole.

Here is a drone shot which shows Ratua (top photo, small island) the dark blue water is the Segund channel, then the lake (which runs off the edge of the photo), then the small blue hole (can you see Sweetie in the blue hole?)

Not the best photo of us as it was into the sun, but you know what we look like 🙂

Malo Island’s blue hole is a true swimming sanctuary and rarely visited (especially if there are no guests at Ratua Island Resort).  Deep and refreshing, this is considered one of the more natural of Santo’s blue holes.  There are no services, toilets, or man-made structures here.

Matevulu Blue Hole

We slowly wandered up the twisty river to Vanuatu’s largest and deepest (18m deep) blue hole called Matevulu. The red arrow is Sugar Shack in the Peterson Bay Lagoon.  We took Sweetie up the long zig-zagging river to the Matevulu Blue Hole.  In the bottom photo, the drone was 120 meters high and yet you can still see the bottom.

The slow trip upriver was an experience in itself as we floated across the transparent waters under the canopy of lush green trees.  This river had bright green floating plants on the river’s edge.  It felt like Sweetie was overing over the water.

This is by far the prettiest river leading to a blue hole.  

Matevulu Blue Hole

The first thing you see is the amazing water, then you see the welcome center on the shore.  It costs 1,000vt ($8USD) which you put into an “Honesty Box.”  They have restrooms and a few sitting and lounge areas.

It is simply unbelievable how clear this water is!  The water is about 2′ above the cement platform (top left photo).

Once we arrived to the blue hole we noticed a giant rope swing tied to a large banyan tree and a large slide.  Of course we had to do it all!  The slide required a bucket full of water before sliding down the extra large pipe.

My hands are still in recovery so I skipped the rope swing, but Matt had a go at it.

The tallest rope swing is off the banyan tree where they “propped” a ladder up against its side.

The left photo is taken half under water and yet it is still clear.  Keep in mind that this is 18 meters deep!  And you can still see the bottom.

Sweetie looks like she is just hovering in mid-air….

The only bummer part of this hole is the destroyed cement structures that have fallen into the pool.  Previously, used to get in/out of the water and also as a sun bathing area.  It’s a shame as it is a detractor, but the rest of the beauty still overshadows it.

Riri Blue Hole

Known as the prettiest blue hole in all of Vanuatu. The paddle along the translucent Riri River into the entrance lagoon is like a portal to another world.  Utter perfection for steamy eye gazing and languid soaks.

The river to the Riri blue hole is much shorter and lined with mangroves.  As you can see from the image below, we enter from the upper right corner, to a wide “lake” and then start down the river to the blue hole.

Paddling up the entrance lagoon and crystal river is nothing short of magical!  The Matevulu and Riri rivers are much bluer than the Malo river leading to the holes.  

The colors literally take your breath away.  It is amazing to me that you can see so clearly to the bottom knowing it is fairly deep.  Riri is much smaller than Matevulu, but impressive!  A large fallen tree draws your attention, wish it could be removed.

It is a kaleidoscope of colors and immediately pulls you into its beauty.

Matt finds the rope swing and makes a spectacle of himself.  

I find pure joy just floating in this gorgeous oasis.

The locals have gone to a lot of effort to provide platforms, bathrooms and changing areas to make this blue hole easily accessible. Cost is 1000vt per person or 500 vt for kids.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited the blue holes in the month of August 2024.  We kill it on our fast run to Luganville to run a million errands in our last blog post.

Luganville: The Dreaded Errands

It had been over 2 months since Matt and I were in a “town.”  We were in need of so many things that we had to make a day of it.   We hired a taxi driver to pick us up at a large concrete dock off of Oyster Bay Lagoon in the island of Santo.  Thank goodness he came in a pick up truck as we filled the back of it up!  And off we go to Luganville, the largest town on Santo and frankly in the northern islands of Vanuatu.

We had 2 large bags and 3 small bags of rubbish (the small bags belonged to another boat).  We had 7 jerry cans, 1 propane bottle and lots of empty bags to fill.  It is a nice 40-minute drive from Oyster Bay lagoon to Luganville.  The main town is all on one street located on the waterfront with many stores.

Luganville

Our first stop had to be the dump to get rid of our rubbish. We had heard that they recycle aluminum and tusker beer bottles but we later learned they only recycle the tusker bottles.  if you notice all of the red bags in the dump it is because those are municipality bags.  Locals buy these particular bags and then leave their bags in designated places on the street for free.  We heard about this and bought yellow bags in Efate thinking we could use them all over Vanuatu.  Ha!  Not the case.  Each island has their own color.  If you do not have the proper color you cannot leave your bag in the designated spots on the street.  Oh well, we tried.   Efate has yellow bags and Santo has red bags.

Our next stop was Paradise Petroleum.  We had (5) 20 liter and (2) 30 liter jerry cans to fill with benzine (aka gasoline).  We use gasoline for the dinghy and for our small portable generator.  The big boat uses diesel.  We had lots of cloudy days with no solar and had to use the generator a lot.  Plus we were out exploring in the dinghy using up a lot of fuel.  We filled up 157 liters and it cost $257 USD (192vt/liter).  Hopefully, this gasoline will last us for 2.5-3 months.

We also refilled our propane tank which we use for cooking and the BBQ ($21USD).  This should last us 4-5 months.

Next it was off to Digicel to get top up cards for our local SIM which I use to have internet access onshore.  We hit the fresh market (lower right photo above), the butcher (just because), Santo Hardware, and the fairly well stocked LCM Grocery Store.  The hardware store did not have a hose or machete that we wanted but we did buy some nice fishing lures.

Will it All Fit?

We were on a mission and were in and out of every store relatively fast.  By 11:45am we were heading back to Oyster Bay Lagoon.  I have to say that I am still impressed with all that we did in such a short amount of time.  We stuffed it all in the back of the truck and prayed it would all fit in the dinghy.

  • 7 Bags of groceries
  • 3 cases of beer
  • 7 jerry cans
  • 1 propane tank

I guess after 7.5 years of doing this we have it down to an art….no problem with the fit and we got the dinghy to plane!  We unloaded it onto the boat and admired our stash.

An expensive day for sure, but this will hold us over for several months.  

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We went to Luganville on 7 August 2024.  Did you read about our trip to a private island and resort in our last blog?

Hiding on Aore Island

There are navigational hazards all over the oceans and lagoons.  These can range from natural reefs and bommies that are just below the surface to lost containers, FADs (fishing devices), debris and trash,

We are constantly watching the ocean in front of us and utilizing multiple charts and satellite images to ensure a smooth passage.  This would be whether it is 1200nm or 8nm.  Distance doesn’t matter when things can pop up at any moment.

We were leaving Atchin and heading to Aore island which is a 10nm sail.  We had full sails as there were light winds predicted.  

What Can You See?

Matt called me over to look out at the ocean.  Hmmm, I could see a color difference ahead so we both checked the charts.  We were running navionics, B&G, Rocket Guide, Garmin, satellite charts from three sources and I am on the bow as a lookout.  This is our norm.

Me looking for visual changes in the ocean and or reefs / bommies.

At first glance we could not see any reason as to why the ocean goes from dark blue to a lighter blue.  I looked closely at Navionics.  Everything appears clear (left image)….until you zoom in (right image) and click on the small dot when “reef” shows up.  Well, that is one obstruction we want to avoid.  

But on the satellite charts there are two areas of concern.  The oval shaped one below is the one we spotted after we zoomed in to Navionics.  However, the long skinny one, just below the boat never showed up.  What the heck?  Well, no matter what it is, let’s avoid it!

As it turns out, we believe that the light coloring in the satellite chart could be a cut in the fringing reef where a creek emerges from the forest.  But, despite this possibility we decided it was best to go around it.

Aore Island

We arrived safely into Aiswari Bay on Aore Island.  It is a tricky entrance where you have to have good light to navigate around the reefs that line the entrance.

You are rewarded with a super calm, beautiful anchorage once you are inside the pass.  We were looking for an isolated anchorage where we could work on boat projects and let my hands heal.  

Matt took this time to go for a few paddle board trips, we walked onshore (which is pretty much the only thing I can do) and we worked on small boat projects.

We had beautiful sunsets (top) and sunrises (bottom).

What Do You Do With Injured Hands?

I organized our spices.  Yep, that is exciting.  We had all of our spices in an upper cabinet.  The problem was you could not see anything beyond the spices in front.  So, they ended up getting moved around a lot making it difficult to find what you needed.

So, I gathered my label maker, labeled the lids and we moved them to a drawer.  Sweet as!

Go Sun

Our good friend Rena on sv Moana gifted us with a Go Sun.  I had never heard of them before, but of course Matt was over the moon with this new oven.  All it needs is a little sun and you can bake bread, pizza dough, baguettes, veggies, potatoes and more.  Our first try came out pretty darn tasty!

Malokilikili Bay, Malo Isalnd

We had a “light” weather window and decided to motor sail10nm to Malo Island.  We had passed by a pretty bay on the way to Aore Island but could not enter due to the wind direction.  Since, the winds shifted and decreased, we thought we would go check it out.

We are headed to Malokilikili Bay just off of Malotina Island (which is just off Malo Island).  There are a lot of reefs and bommies in this area.  The best time to enter is when the sun is straight up, clear skies, and calm seas.  The tide is 2m at 0 tide and we have a 1.3m draft.  Doesn’t leave a lot of wiggle room.  But we are able to navigate around all the bommies and anchored in a sandy spot.

All of the dark spots in the turquoise water are bommies or coral heads.  The white or gray areas are reef.  Can you see Sugar Shack in the photo above?

The photo below shows you how close we are to one large bommie.  We dropped our hook in 3m, put out 15m of chain, plus 5m of bridle.  We could have anchored further up, but we set the hook good and decided to leave it.  

Super beautiful, calm, protected spot.  We enjoyed a nice long walk around Malotina and then took the dinghy over to Malokilikili.  We met a few locals who took us around to each of the 4 villages on the island and even managed to score some fruit!

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We visited Malokilikil and Aore Island in late July 2024.  In our last blog I share the unfortunate burning of my hands….