Tag Archives: santo

Scintillating Santo

Espiritu Santo, (or just Santo, as the locals call it), is the largest island in Vanuatu.  There is an incredible amount of history from WWII museums, relics, dive sites, the sunken SS President Coolidge cruise liner, Million Dollar point, to planes and ships on the beaches and in the sea.  In addition, there are some of the most beautiful sites you will ever see including the stunning blue holes, Champagne Beach, and Port Orly.

We start off at Oyster Bay Lagoon located inside Peterson Bay (east side of Santo).  Our goal here was to visit the two beautiful blue holes: Riri Blue Hole and Matevulu Blue Hole.  Absolutely, one of the most stunning experiences we have had!

Hog Harbor

There are two bays inside Hog Harbor.  We anchor at Lonnoc Beach because it offered better protection from the winds and swell.  We drop the hook in beautiful clear blue water in between some bommies and overlook the pretty beach.  There are three small “resorts” onshore.  The one on the far left is closed (probably because the local airline is debunk and no guests can get here).  The middle resort is the largest and most well known, Lonnoc Eco Beach Bungalows. And the one on the far right is Lonnoc Beach Lodge.  These two locations offered restaurant, bar, trash disposal and laundry services to yachties.  They too were vacant but employees were around.

In front of the Lonnoc Eco Beach Bungalows is a WWII barge that washed ashore.  It now has several trees growing out of the center of it.

The second bay in Hog Harbor, which is far more popular, is Champagne Beach.  This is one of Vanuatu’s most beautiful beaches and is visited by cruise ships and tourists from all over the world. The beach is covered in a super soft, pure white sand and the waters are crystal clear turquoise.  Absolutely a stunning beach so we had to enjoy some champagne while on champagne beach! 

Port Orly

Our next stop in Santo is Port Orly.  We could see from the satellite charts that it was a really beautiful spot.  The super soft sandy beaches had beautiful overhanging pam trees.  The water is so clear that you can see to the bottom in 12 meters!  We cozied up to a little eatery and enjoyed a few lunches as we admired this stunning view.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind live events.  We visited Santo from mid-to-late August. We thoroughly enjoy a special performance of Vanuatu’s Bamboo Pipe Drum Band which was an epic performance (check out the post). 

Vanuatu Bamboo Pipe Drums

There were rumors of a few islands that put on musical performances playing bamboo pipe drums.  We saw a video and it quickly got on our list as a “must do item” in Vanuatu.  The problem was we were not sure which anchorage or island played this unusual performance.

We decided to have a nice dinner one night while we were anchored at Peterson Bay, Santo Island.  We headed to Turtle Bay Resort which is a lovely resort, with super delicious food and reasonable prices.   To our surprise they had a band playing so we sat back, enjoyed our dinner, and awaited the mystery band.

Imagine our joy when 11 men came in carrying bamboo pipe drums followed by 4 female dancers!  Sweet as!!!!!

Bamboo Pipes

Bamboo Pipes

Bamboo Pipe Drums

We were not really sure what to expect.  Will it be enjoyable and entertaining?  Can you listen to a band play bamboo pipes for more than a few minutes without being “bored”?  The answer to all of those questions is a resounding, yes, yes, and yes!

Sorry for the weird colors in the photos, but the resort had colored lights.

They had drummers that ranged in ages from 9 to 50+.  The interesting thing is that the band rotated instruments throughout the night.  They did not stay with one set of bamboo pipes.  

There were 6 bamboo pipe drums, each with varying lengths of bamboo and each making unique musical notes.  

One person played a set of bamboo pipes like a flute, blowing into each culm creating beautiful baritone or base notes. And another person played the bag (for lack of better words). Inside the bag were a lot of nuts and they would lift and squish the bag making a marvelous sound.

What do Bamboo Pipes Consist of?

The bamboo culm (stem) is latched with vines and expertly organized by its sound.  One resort guest went up and asked to play (he was not so good).  But the guest asked the performer for “e” and believe it or not he pointed to a specific bamboo pipe!

The paddles are made of used, yellow floats that are carved up, shaped and attached to sticks to pound onto the pipes.  Talk about a great way to reuse these floats that end of up littering the beaches!

One of the dancers managed to get me out to the dance floor.  Not sure my Lake girl skills were helpful at this time 🙂

Matt and I had such an amazing time!  We really thoroughly enjoyed the bamboo pipe band!  The music was played with enthusiasm and joy and was truly fantastic.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We saw the Bamboo Pipe Band at Turtle Bay Resort on 10 August 2024.  We finally found an adventure trail that almost wipes me out – the Millennium Cave Adventure — check out the blog post here.

Challenging Millennium Cave Trek

The Millennium Cave tour is an action packed, adventure filled experience. They say it is not for the faint hearted and only those who enjoy a challenge should attempt to join the team.  We will be trekking  through a forest, exploring Vanuatu’s largest cave, scrambling over and under boulders, swimming down a river, and climbing up and down tons of ladders. 

What is the Millennium Cave?

It is the largest and most impressive cave in the Pacific region. Spanning over 400 meters long and 50 meters tall, this labyrinthine cave system is a testament to the power of nature. Its towering stalactites and stalagmites create a surreal underground world.  About a gazillion bats call this cave their home making the rocks below a poo’y surface.

The cave is considered a sacred site and holds great significance for the people of Vanuatu, as it was once a refuge during tribal conflicts. It received it’s new name, Millennium Cave when it opened up to the public in the year 2000.

Most of the proceeds from the Millennium Cave tour go back to the local villages (Nambel and  Funaspef) to fund schools and help educate the children.

Ready for the fun?

We are picked up from Oyster Bay lagoon at 0730 and then we drive 45-minutes to Luganville to pick up Tiffany (27 year old from France) and to the office to sign our lives away.  Next is a 90-minute ride to the small village of Nambel.  This is where the car stops as the road stops.  We meet our guide, Tony who happens to be the brother to our driver Michele.  

Nambel Village

Super small village of 50 people, but the grounds are clean and everything is well kept and beautiful.   We don’t waste time and make our way to Funaspef shortly after arrival.

It is a 30-minute walk through the mud from Nambel to Funaspef village.  Along the way we pass through coconut and cocoa plantations and cross a bamboo bridge.  I say “bridge” loosely as it consists of long bamboo shoots laid across from one side to the other.  Not nailed down or secured in anyway!

Funaspef Village

This is where Tony, our guide lives.  He takes us to the community center and explains the tour and provides us with a torch and life jacket.  And then we are off…it is 10:00am.  We have a 2-hour trek through the forest to the cave entrance.

It has not rained in over 5 days yet the trails/roads are still very muddy (see Matt’s shoes top right).  About 60% of the trail is hard mud or dirt, but the other 40% is pure squishy mud.  The kind that sucks your shoes off and makes it challenging to walk up right.

The scenery to the cave is simply beautiful.  Lush green trees, bright vibrant flowers, birds and only nature as your soundtrack.  We had two 2-minute rest stops for water and continued on.   

We crossed the Sarakota river several times, lots of hiking up and walking down (carefully as not to slip in the mud)…more river crossings.  The water is so clear and beautiful.

Sarakota River

Sarakota River

We experience our first, of many, “ladders.”  I say “ladder” loosely as they are two tree stumps with tree limbs used as rungs.  They are unevenly spaced out, crooked, and leaning to one side.  It is extremely challenging as your shoes are muddy, the ladder leans to one side, and there is no place to get a good grip with your hands.  This is the one ladder Matt was able to “walk down.”  Tiffany and I went down backwards, on all 4s!

But we finally arrive at the entrance to the Millennium Cave. 

Face Painting Ritual

We stop at the entrance for a face painting ceremony.  Because this is a sacred site, Tony performs a ritual to protect us from danger.  The clay paste etching is applied as he tells you what each symbol means:  waterfall, zigzag river, rocks, safety.  This will ensure a safe passage through the river and the cave.

Tony hands us our torches as we descend a steep ladder to the entrance.

Millennium Cave

We enter the beautiful entrance shrouded in plants and trees.  The cave is 50 meters tall and 400 meters wide.  There is a fresh water river running through it causing a slight current.  You step into the cold water up to your knees as you attempt to make your way forward. 

The cave entrance looking outside in.

The cave entrance looking outside in.

Once inside the Cave, we follow Tony as we navigate the river bed, examine the walls of the Cave and aim our torch up to the cave roof, to see the home of tiny bats and swallows. 

The cave entrance looking inside out.

The cave entrance looking inside out.

It was pretty challenging to hold the torch in one hand while wading through the river current and stepping on slippery rocks and boulders in the pitch black.  We turned our lights off and could not see our hand in front of our faces!

I was relived to see the light at the end of the cave.  I am pretty tired already and we are only half way through the adventure.  Legs are trembling, hands are sore (despite me wearing gloves), and heart rate is up from both exertion and exhaustion. And yet I am in wonderment at the loveliness around me.

Exiting the Millennium Cave

Exiting the Millennium Cave

We stop for 20 minutes for lunch, thank goodness.  A view of the cave’s exit.  Matt is desperately trying to keep the dry bag out of the water.  Which is funny as the next part of the adventure is swimming.  

River Swimming

I was excited about the river portion of the tour as I was hoping we could just relax and let the river float us from one end to the other.  Ha!  Not exactly the case.  We pack my phone in a zip lock, then place it in my water proof Ugo small bag, then put that inside another zip lock, which is then placed in a small dry bag and then inside my drybag backpack.  Surely it will stay dry! and it does.

There is a very slight current that slowly moves you but in the end you have to swim, paddle, and kick to keep moving forward.  So much for the relaxing rest period in a cool refreshing river.  I will say the canyon that you swim down is stunning.  So much greenery, lush hillsides, waterfalls, and pure natural beauty.

Several times I floated on my back to look up at the towering canyon walls and it simply took my breath away.

And so many waterfalls.  The cave had several waterfalls, but the ones along the river were stunning!

I also thought that we would be swimming in the river for the full 30-45 minutes.  But as it turns out, you are in the river for 10-12 minutes, then you clamber over giant boulders, back in the river, then out again climbing another one of those darn ladders, back in the river, and over more boulders.  No rest for the weary!

Canyoning

Canyoning begins, once you are done with the swimming portion.  I don’t know if I can dig deep enough for the energy to canyon.  But, what choice do I have?

The boulders are huge; you climb under and clamber over, testing your fitness and sense of adventure. In some areas they have ropes with knots where you can use to climb up or down one side of the boulder.  In other areas they have U-shaped rebar hammered into the rock for you to use as a foot or hand hold.  But most places you are using rock climbing skills to scamper over the wet, and mossy boulders.

In between the canyoning you are still crossing rivers.  A constant state of wet. But onward we continue.

And guess what?  More ladders!  Holy hell you have got to be kidding me!

Are we there yet?

Just when I think I can’t go on any longer, Tony says one more big ladder and then we have a 30 minute trek to Funaspef.  We all make it back in one piece!

Tony’s wife offers us coffee and bananas as we try to dry off.  It doesn’t really matter as we are caked in mud so who cares if we are wet?  It is now 1500, 4.5 hours of adventuring.

We then walk the 30 minutes from Funaspef village to Nambel where Michele awaits with his car.  I’ve never been so relieved to sit down!  Now we have a 90-minute drive to Luganville and then another 40-minute drive to Oyster Bay Lagoon where Sugar Shack awaits us.

The Millennium Cave adventure was a huge adrenaline rush and we spent lots of moments in awe of the beauty around.  The sense of accomplishment we felt at the end was truly unparalleled!

Yeah me, yeah us!  Here are our activity stats:

  • 17,318 steps
  • 11.2 km
  • 735 calories burned (this has to be wrong as I felt we burnt way more than that)
  • 64 floors climbed

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We did the Millennium Cave tour on 8 August 2024.  Hope you did not miss the beautiful blue holes of Vanuatu in our last blog post.