Tag Archives: reef

Reef Days and Island Ways

What do you do when you need a little solitude?  You head to the reef.  

The forecast had a week of very light winds and we had some underwater projects to tackle.  

Just 11nm from Noumea (the capital of New Caledonia) is the beautiful, secluded Grand Recif Abore (Grand Abore Reef).

There is not much protection here so you really need to come when the weather is just right.

We had absolutely glorious weather with light winds and very little swell (even during high tide). 

Just look at these colors!

It felt like our own piece of paradise.

One shot is looking north and the other is looking south.

Just, Matt, myself, and the beautiful blue ocean.

Please Tell Me that Isn’t So?

Believe it or not, I have not been in the water for over a year.  Yes, I know, I live on a boat.  But the water has been very, very cold (60’sF or colder)!  We did not get in the water at all in New Zealand and only a handful of times in Fiji.  (This is me smacking my forehead).

It was time to suit up and jump in the water. 

We had two big projects to tackle. 

First, we had to clean the bottom of the boat including the waterline, both hulls. and all of the niche places (thru holes, behind the dagger boards, refrigeration and SSB plates, rudder, props, saildrives, etc.).

We also had to change the zincs on the props and fix a little “wiggle” that we noticed the last time we motored.

Even though the water temp was about 74F – I was freezing!  Normally I could finish the entire boat in about 4-5 hours.  However, I could only do one side before I was breathing funny and called it a day.

I jumped in the next day to finish the other hull while Matt worked on the props.

Bonus

We had some spectacular sunsets and sunrises.  With unobstructed views of both.

Another spectacular bonus was that there are thousands of sand dollars under the boat!

We were anchored in about 4-5 meters of water which is just at my limit for free diving.  

But, I was very tempted to get the dive gear out to pick up some new collectables!

All of the black spots under water are sand dollars (they are actually white but the camera picks them up as black).  

Our blog post runs 4-6 weeks behind schedule. 

Find Grand Recif Abore on No Foreign Land.

We hung out at the reef for a week (Aug.2026) and enjoyed the solitude and beauty.

Sugar Shack at Sughulamp Reef

Sughulamp Reef is not technically an anchorage.  There are no anchor spots on the charts or guide books.  But, there was a beautiful sandy area next the reef that was screaming for our attention.

We edged up to the reef and dropped the hook in 2.4m of sand.  We have a reef in front of us that blocks the swell from the sea. There is a reef to the right and left and the lagoon behind us.  A perfect spot for relaxing and soaking up the pure beauty of the Maskelyne islands.

It is raining a lot so we got several rainbows in between the rain storms.  We were re-anchoring when Matt captured this rainbow.

Matt got the drone out when we finally had a sunny moment.  I am so glad he did as he captured some amazing shots!

In the sandy area below the boat we found a huge school of trigger fish, a school of squid, and several small soft coral patches with nemos.

The red arrow is Sugar Shack at the Sughulamp Reef.

And the most important part of this location is that it is close to the dugongs.  We went out several times to see them but it was always raining.  Still a huge pleasure being in their presence.

Vulai Island

This is an uninhabited island.  It is said that it used to be the leper island and is now tabu amongst the locals.  Nobody lives here either because of the tabu or the fact that there is no flat dirt anywhere to build.  It is overgrown with palm trees and vegetation making it pretty difficult to imagine where a settlement might be.

But we did wander around and tried to get to the beach on the other side of the island.  But the deeply thick mangroves prevented access.

This island had so many small palm trees growing.  The coconuts fall from the tree, and start to sprout a little palm.  When this palm is about 3-6″ you can open the coconut and have tasty coconut cake.  If the coconut is left on the ground, the little tree will break free from the shell and grow roots into the ground.  Making a lovely coconut farm on Vulai.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We were at Sughulamp Reef around mid-July 2024.  In our last blog I share our photos from our dugong adventures.

Reef Walking on the Wild Side

It is a king’s tide which means an adventure for its peasants!  As you know, the tidal range change with the different phases of the moon.  During a “king’s tide” with a full moon, the low tide is lower and the high tide is higher.  How does this open up to an adventure?  The lowest tide exposes the reef allowing us to walk a mile and a half from Puaumu to Tepapuri. Under normal conditions, this walk is unattainable as it becomes a swim.

This is not an arduous walk as it is flat and not very far (round trip 3 miles).  However, you have to be incredibly careful as you walk across the live coral where millions of sea critters call home.  Trying to avoid the live coral, sea creatures, and plants can be challenging as you walk across the slippery, slimy surface.

The top photo shows Teapuri in the way distance (small spec of trees just past the reef).  The bottom photo shows Puaumu in the way distance beyond the close motu.

1.4 mile walk from Puaumu to Teapuri

1.4 mile walk from Puaumu to Teapuri

We left Sugar Shack around 0630, secured Sweetie, our dinghy, and began our adventure.  Super pretty and brisk in the early morning.

We traversed over the reef making our best attempts to avoid any living organism.  It is always amazing to me to see what lies beneath the sea.  And with low tide, it is all exposed.  How do these guys survive when the tide is low and they are out of water for hours at a time?

The top two photos are looking at Teapuri and the bottom photo is looking at Puaumu.

Different views of the reef

Different views of the reef

Hidden Discoveries at Low Tide

Pretty coral heads were scattered throughout the reef ranging in color from pink, purple, green and white.  Little green and pink plants were also peppered throughout the reef.  The sea cucumbers out number all of the sea creatures, but they are very easy to spot (large, black, turd looking animals – see image top right).

We encountered lots of critters waiting for the water to return.  Several eels made came out to greet us in their not so friendly way.  One eel scurried from one pool of water to another.  These eels are all under water but it is so clear that you can’t tell in the photos.

A ton of little crabs put on a display of power as we walked by.  They may be small but I wouldn’t want their pinchers anywhere near my 10 little piggies.

I tried to do a panorama showing the high tide vs the low tide.  But based on the lower image and the break in the sea I would say I suck at keeping my hands steady. But you get the idea.

Me taking advantage of the low tide by walking out to the edge of the berm…I look like a lion with all that hair.

Here is a beautiful photo of the full moon.  It was spectacular and glorious to look at.

Full Moon Giving us Kings Tide

Full Moon Giving us Kings Tide

Events from this blog post occurred on 26 April, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.