Tag Archives: polynesians

Hanging with Local Polynesian Friends

Every once in awhile we have the privilege of hosting a few of our local Polynesian friends on Sugar Shack.  The local English teacher, Poerani (also known as Popo) and her friend Anne hung out with us for a few days.  Anne is an English teacher in Huahine who is visiting Gambier.

We picked Popo and Anne up along with loads of food and a full cooler.  You could see the excitement in their eyes!  We had hoped to raise the sails, but there was little to no wind.  A motor it is.  We head to Onemea Baie which is on the west side of Taravai.  It is a beautiful, isolated bay with a pretty beach, beautiful reef, and is surrounded by lush green hills.

Onemea with Polynesian Friends

Onemea with Polynesian Friends

The motor only took about 2 hours as we let the ladies enjoy the experience.  They hung out on the bean bags which were on the trampoline and had a marvelous time.

We enjoyed some water time hanging out behind the boat with some floats.  Then we get the girls out on the paddle boards and they make their way to shore for some beach time.

Polynesian Friends on beach

Polynesian Friends on beach

We enjoy a feast for dinner after a beautiful Polynesian sunset.

Polynesian Sunset

Polynesian Sunset

After a lazy morning, fresh bread and a pancake breakfast we head out.  Instead of returning straight to Rikitea, we take a detour to a new motu called Tenoko.  It is a really small spit of land just east of the main pass.  We have always wanted to stop here but the weather has to be just perfect.

Tenoko

Tenoko is a very small motu measuring about 500’ from end to end. There is very little onshore besides rocks, coral and trees.  It is surrounded by coral which makes it tricky to get to by dinghy.  The image below shows Tenoko in the upper right corner.  You can see the main pass into the Gambier lagoon in the lower left corner (pink lines below the red marker)

Popo, Anne and I jump in the water and enjoy the beautiful setting.  We were blessed by a visit from a spotted ray who hung out under the boat for well over an hour.  Such pretty creatures!

On the way back, we enjoy some sun and goofy girl moments.

Popo and I

Popo and I

It is a true blessing to have met these two ladies – they are the epitome of the perfect local Polynesian friends!

Events from this blog post occurred during early April 2021.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind our adventures.

Sugar Shack in Puaumu

Parte in Puaumu with Polynesians

Puaumu is in the NE corner of the Gambiers. We had to cross over unchartered areas with a look out on the bow to keep the boat clear of coral bommies.  We arrived on a beautiful, calm day with no swell, light winds and perfect conditions.  Not many cruisers or locals visit this small, private, yet pristine island.

Puaumu in Gambiers

Puaumu in Gambiers

The first few days at this anchorage were just glorious.  We had the entire bay to ourselves and the water was like a glassy mirror of the sky.  The island of Puaumu is in the shape of a “C.”  The left side of the island or the north side is owned by my friend Stefan and his family.  The right side or the south is owned by another family.  Stefan and his family stayed here for 2 weeks during quarantine.  We had the pleasure of visiting them by dinghy and enjoyed a huge, delicious luncheon feast.

Playing in Puaumu

Smooth waters are just perfect for paddle boarding.  Typically, I paddle board on my knees or butt, but with these conditions I ventured on to my feet.  It was shaky at first, a little bob and weaving going on, but I finally got the hang of it.  Matt and I paddled around the anchorage, checked on the anchor, and admired the many fish around the coral heads.

There was one coral bommie directly under the boat.  Well, let’s be clear, it was not under the boat when we anchored.  When the wind changed, we shifted over the bommie.  As you can see, Matt is checking it out and we have clearance – even during low tide.

Matt broke out the drone and captured some amazing shots of Sugar Shack during sunset.  The dark splotchy marks in the water are coral bommies.

Sugar Shack at Puaumu -drone shot

Sugar Shack at Puaumu -drone shot

These are amazing shots too.  The top one shows the Pacific (lower portion of photo), Puaumu and the lagoon.  Sugar Shack at peace by herself and Mangareva in the background.  The center photo has Puaumu on the far right (off camera) and shows the furthest NE motu, Tepapuri in the background.  We can’t bring the big boat to that island, but we have explored it by dinghy.

THANKING WHO?

We had invited Stefan to stay onboard Sugar Shack for the weekend.  In part, as a thank you for hosting us for lunch a few weeks ago.  Stefan, his wife Manu and their friend Popo (or Nani) came by fishing boat Saturday afternoon and stayed until Sunday evening.  It truly was our intention to host them, to cook for them and to show them a marvelous time.  However, they came with boxes of food and drink to last well over a week!

For dinner, Stefan cooked 6 lbs of Mahi Mahi, chicken and sausage.  Plus, we had beet salad, fresh bread and salad.  For dessert I made avocado chocolate pudding which turned out divine.

Stefan Cooking up a storm

Stefan Cooking up a storm

Sunset was enjoyed at the bow of the boat.  Our guests had trepidations about the trampoline, but we eventually got them to walk on it.  Each square inch can hold up to 200lbs so there was no concern of breakage (no concern on our part). 

The next morning, I made blueberry pancakes, but Stefan insisted on cooking omelets for everyone as well.  In addition, we had cheesy bread, homemade guava preserves to go on more fresh bread, starfruit, and fresh squeezed juice.

We enjoyed a day of fun in the sun, swimming and playing cards.  Lunched was followed by more fresh fish on the grill, fresh bread, fruit, sushi which is actually called poison cru.

Stefan taking a giant leap

Stefan taking a giant leap

Super fun weekend turned out to be Stefan, Manu and Popo spoiling us with cooking, cleaning, and a few days of complete fun.

Coconut Hunting

On the small islands you have to make due with what you are given.  In some cases that is hunting for coconuts, but only on the islands or motus where there is no coconut harvesting of copra.  A coconut is handy for coconut water, coconut milk, coconut cake, and plain ole coconut.  I bet you didn’t know the little coconut could be so useful?  We scavenged for a long stick and started hunting.  Once we find a few green coconuts, we use our machete to hack into them and capture the yummy coconut water inside.

Coconut Hunting

Coconut Hunting

Beach BBQ on Puaumu

Several of our friends decided to join us in the anchorage.  After our Polynesian friends left, 4 boats joined us.  A little cruiser party in Puaumu.  One day we had a beach BBQ on the corner of the island.  It was Hoodoo (Yanell and Missy), Sea Jay (Chris and Fred), Kalea (Jaques and Elensie), and Storm Along (Lynette and Nils).

Beach BBQ

Beach BBQ

We had some gorgeous sunset shots.

After our tasty dinner, we sat around the fire chatting and enjoying the good company.

Puaumu is an absolutely pristine island with beautiful beaches, turquoise waters, and perfect views of sunset.