Tag Archives: Petroglyphs

The Mysteries of Maewo Island

Maewo is famously called the Waterfall Island because it has the highest rainfall out of any island in Vanuatu.  It is fun to count the shear number of waterfalls as you sail up and down the coast.  Maewo is the home of the tallest waterfall Naone Waterfall and the most waterfalls of any island.

We did not get to Naone Bay on this visit, but we hope to see it on our way out of Vanuatu.  We did enjoy lots of waterfalls and the beautifully lush hillsides covered in trees and vines that look like curtains falling down the side.

Our stop first in Asanvari Bay first which is the southern most anchorage on the island.  We anchor between the reefs near the waterfall that falls a mere meter or two from the boat.

We head to shore where we meet Carl, a nice local who offers to show us around the village and take us on a tour up and around the waterfall.   The village is really beautiful with brightly colored houses, well groomed grounds, huge banyan trees everywhere and views of the ocean.

The first swimming pool is easily accessed from the beach.  Like I said it is almost flowing into the anchorage it is so close.  We hike up the muddy trail to get to the top of the first part of the waterfall and it is really pretty.

Matt and I both jump in to the refreshing water.

And we have some pretty views of the anchorage.

The sunset glow across the island was simply beautiful.

Mbenavui Point 

There are two caves that we wanted to see at Mbenavui Point which is mid-way up Maewo island.  We found a beautiful anchor spot in the middle of two giant reefs and right below another waterfall.

Cave of the Moon Myth

The Cave of the Moon helps locals share their belief of creation, and in particular, the way it is influenced by the direction of the sun and the moon as they travel across the sky. 

A very long time ago the moon lived inside this cave and its brilliant light did not shine beyond the walls.  Tagaro, the god of sea  saw this and thought it was not good.  He threw the moon out to the south.  But then Targaro noticed that the people in the north did not have any light.  So, he took it and threw it north, but then the people in the south had no light. 

Unhappy with that, he took the moon and threw it to the west where its light shone on all the people in Maewo.  This made Tagaro very happy.

Tagaro created three enormous holes into the cave each time he through the moon into the sky.  

The Vast Hole Left by the Moon

Just a few miles up the coast of Maewo you come to the Sanasom anchorage.  This is where we hope to find the Cave of the Moon and the petroglyph cavern. 

Only accessible by boat, the Cave of the Moon is spacious and lit with rays of sunlight that strike the water and create an iridescent yet eerie glow. 

The three canals of water, are the places where the moon passed when it was thrown. 

Once you jump in the crystal clear waters you see lots of giant boulders, fish, and beautiful sea life.

Petroglyphs 

Just next to the Cave of the Moon is the Malangauliuli cavern with “ancient rock etchings, petroglyphs”.  Both the cavern and the cave are within a conservation area and require a guide which can be provided by the village chief.  However, our anchorage was not near the Sanasom village so we went on our own.  I am sure the woven tales about each cave would have been spectacular.  What we found were pretty worn out, hard to read, and certainly hard to discern – a guide would have been useful.

A cave important to their kastom beliefs.  They place stones on top of each other and over time they form stalagmite like formations.  

The curtains are just starting to form and take shape…

The island of Maewo is certainly full of lots of mystery and wonder.  It was a pleasure to visit the “waterfall island” and see some of its beauty.  We hope to come back on our way out of Vanuatu to see the Naone Waterfall.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred in early July.  We share with you a little bit about life on the island of Pentecost in our last blog post.

The Stunning Island of Maupiti

Maupiti is a luscious, remote island located 27nm west of Bora Bora.  We had always hoped to visit this lovely piece of paradise but were unable to make it happen until now.

Maupiti Island

Maupiti Island

We visited the Society Archipelago (where Maupiti is located) last year but did not have time to navigate to this distant island.  An opportunity arose after we dropped off my family at the Bora Bora airport.  This island has a challenging pass to enter and depart the lagoon.  It is known to be difficult as you cannot enter when the winds are close to 20kts, or when there is a 2+ meter swell or if winds are coming from the south.  The prevailing winds come from the south a lot.

Where the pink and red lines meet is the entrance of the pass.  The green ships are other boats on AIS and the blue area is the channel from the pass to the village. 

Mauipiti

Mauipiti

This is a good photo of the island with all the motus around it.  You can see the one pass at the bottom of the island/photo.

Mauipiti

Mauipiti

Traveling to Maupiti

However, we picked a travel day with virtually no wind (2-5kts) coming from the east with less than a meter swell.  We arrived promptly at 1130 and on the approach swallowed hard as we noticed the huge swell breaking on the reef.  The photo below shows the reef and the small pass entrance and then the reef again.

From the photo below, you can clearly see the reef on either side of the small pass.  It is a tricky one.

Pass from high view point

Pass from high view point

A few locals were fishing off the reef of the pass indicating just how calm it was when we entered.

Pass to enter the lagoon

Pass to enter the lagoon

Once we lined up the two markers and put the boat in the center of the pass we only encountered 1kt of outgoing current.  It was smooth as silk!  We hung a left and picked up a mooring just outside the pass and close to the manta ray cleaning station (more on this later).

Our friends on Hoodoo showed up an hour later and decided it would be a drinking day!  It was great fun catching up with Yanell and Missy!

Hiking to the Top Mount Teurafaatiu

There are several towering mountain peaks that scream for our attention.  We started out around 0930 and easily found what we thought was the start of the trail.  We were using maps.me and gps coordinates from a previous cruiser.  Locals had marked the trail with 3 lines: white, red, white.  However, somewhere at the beginning of the hike we got on another trail marked with red, black, yellow.  Hmmm…well it is still a trail so we continued on.

It was almost straight up the mountain, over rocks, under trees, and with the use of a few climbing ropes on the slippery parts.  The boys forged ahead while Missy got stuck with me lagging behind (poor thing).  But, we caught up to the boys maybe 7-8 minutes behind them.

Missy (Hoodoo) and I

Missy (Hoodoo) and I

The top offered spectacular views of the lagoon, pass, and outer motus.  We also found several other trails that needed to be conquered.

The views are just amazing from the top.

Always wanting to mix it up, we traversed down the opposite side of the mountain and found the original white, red, white trail!  This trail going down was very well marked.  It is more exposed to the sun so it was also drier and easier going down.  Interesting.  Oh well, new sights and adventures.

  • Miles Hiked: 5.1
  • Steps:  13,221
  • Flights Climbed: 90 floors
  • Elevation: 1250

Bike Ride Around the Island

Missy and Yanell have fold up bikes so Matt and I rented bikes for 1,000xpf ($10) per day.  The island is not very big, a total of 7 miles all the way around, but we did manage to go down every road, dead end, and dirt path.  There Is one huge hill with a 21% incline and a 20% decline.  I walked down part of the hill as the brakes on my biked slipped.  However, the brave ones rode down the hill.

On the west side of the island we found a beautiful beach and park with the prettiest turquoise waters.

Palace by the Sea

On The way back, we stumbled across the Le Palais de la Mer (Palace of the Sea) which was incredibly beautiful.  One man has been working on the Palace by the Sea for over 20 years.  He offers tours for $20/pp which seems expensive but our friends said it was worth it.  He provides entertainment, free hand weaved palm front hats, shell jewelry, and coconut champaign.

Photo taken and posted by Les Deux Peids Dehors.

Petroglyphes

We found a sign that read “Petroglyphes.”  Superb!  We turned down the road (in Haranae Valley) and followed the trail.  

Fun Photos

Me enjoying being princess for a moment as Missy and Yanell pull Sweetie across some shallow waters.

Town markers around the island.  

Sunset and sunrise photos in Maupiti are simply stunning.

One morning I captured the sunrise and the moon (see top photo)

History of Maupti

  • Population: 1200
  • Living on 4.2 square miles
  • Technically an atoll with an island in the center (meaning it is an older island)
  • Highest peak is 1250’
  • Primary economy is noni production
  • There are ancient Polynesian archaeological artifacts dating from at least AD 850.
  • The island has had many names including Vaitu and Maurua.
  • Maupiti created the stone called “penu” a utensil used to mash food.

Maupiti’s lagoon is well-known for being one of the most beautiful! The different shades of blue will astonish you.  The coral reefs and sandbanks really bring out the shallow crystal-clear water in some places.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.