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Pentecost an Island full of Surprises

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We visit the island of Pentecost primarily for the Naghol (land diving).  But there are so many other wonderful reasons to visit this beautiful island barely touched by modern civilization. 

While walking along the beach we came across a man assembling a canoe for his nephew, Sampson.  It took him 3 days to hand carve the canoe and then he brought it to the beach to lash the rope and alma to the canoe.  The super cool thing was he took what looked like a twig with a pointed end and hammered it (with a rock) into the wooden alma.  I could not believe how easily it went in and stuck forming an “X” to hold the long stick to the alma. 

Elleen, our spokesperson in Wali Bay also introduced us to some local weavers who showed us how they expertly weave these beautiful hand bags.   The dye (middle bottom photo) some of the strands with color (left bottom) to eventually make the stunning bag (top right).  They sell for $1000VT ($10 usd).  The only problem is that the dye rubs off on your clothes…

A few of my favorite local photos.  The top right are men from the Ratap Kastom village (and a friend from another boat). Top left is a dancer from the Bunlop Kastom village and the bottom is a man from Londot village – all on southern Pentecost. 

And then here is my tribe of girls that followed me around each day.  I gave them sparkly nail polish and big heart rings.

Home Bay

Homo Bay is the main bay cruisers anchor at when they want to go see the Ratap Kastom Village Naghol.  The bay was beautiful as the clouds danced around the edges of the mountains.

The Bonfire

After the Naghol, we were all way too excited to go back to our boats.  So, we decided to have a beach BBQ and we invited a few of the locals.  It just happened to be the most perfect evening with clear skies peppered with the constellations.

My Pentecost tribe of women, made me a sand gift out of white rocks.

Waterfalls: Maduit Waterfall

After the Naghol ceremony, we head for Waterfall Bay which is a short 8nm north from Wali Bay.  There were so many cows lounging on the beach – it made for such a funny  photo.  Our friends on Moana (Rena, Chris, and Helena) came with us.

This beautiful bay is known for two very distinct waterfalls.  The Maduit waterfall which can be seen from the anchorage and the Rell Cave Waterfall. 

Two rivers flow gently into the anchorage making a very refreshing fresh water plunge. 

Maduit Waterfall

Pentecost is a bit of a rainy island so it is no surprise that they have lots of waterfalls.  We decide to hike to Maduit waterfall first as we can easily see it from the anchorage.  On the way to the main road we stumble across Glen who generously offers to be our guide.  It is a good thing that he came along as the trail was a little tricky to find.  But once you find the entrance, the rest of the trail is easily followed. 

You’d think the water would be freezing, but it wasn’t. It did take your breath away as you jumped in, but then you quickly got used to it.  Bottom right is our guide, Glen.  We ended up paying him $1000VT ($10 USD) for the 2 hours he spent with the 5 of us.  He did not ask for the money, we offered it to him and took it gratefully. 

The two pools at the bottom of the falls made the most wonderful bubble bath!

It was a truly refreshing afternoon at a stunning waterfall.  Super easy access and beautiful.

Rell Cave Waterfall

The next waterfall was much harder to find.  We searched all over the internet trying to find a location or a person who might guide us to this cave waterfall.  We asked several locals and they had no idea what we were talking about.  So, we went back to research some more. 

Finally, Matt found a document from 2015 that had a short mention of this waterfall.  Sweet as!  We contacted the person and his phone still worked.  He told us to contact his wife, Venneth at Noda Guesthouse or call her +678.594.3287.  She was so nice.  She walked us to the next village, introduced us to Michael who became our guide for the day.

It was a super muddy, slippery path that we would have never found on our own.  You truly need a guide to show you this spectacular waterfall inside a hidden cave!  We walked into the forest, up a hill and into more forest.  Finally we came to the mouth of the cave.

You walk down a very shallow river, then you crawl under the opening of stalactites to get to the waterfall cave.

It was obviously very dark and super hard to hold my iPhone, without dropping it and the flash light while balancing on the slipper rocks. but here you go.  The waterfall was probably 3-4 meters tall as it originated behind the stalactite. 

Of course we had to get wet and man it came down with a lot more force than we anticipated.  We had lots of company with little bats.

We did the Rell Cave Waterfall with our friends from Trinity, Kirsten and Stephan.  Here is a photo of their trimaran and Sugar Shack at anchor in Waterfall Bay.

Super fun bay with lots to see and do. But alas it was time to move to our next adventure.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred during the end of June.  I hope you caught our 2 part series on land-diving.  If not, be sure to visit here and here.

A Death Defying Leap: Land Part II

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In southern Pentecost, the locals believe Naghol (land diving) will bring them a fruitful yam harvest, good health, and prosperity to the community.  In addition, Naghol is an act of courage for the men and a right of passage for the young boys to enter manhood.

Be sure to read Part I of our Naghol / Land Diving Series called “Naghol, the Birth of Bungee Jumping.”  

Please be aware that there is nudity in some of the images below.

Ceremony Day

We had several of our cruising friends join us for this monumental occasion.  We all anchored in Wali Bay on the southern end of Pentecost.  From our anchorage we could see the tower – how exciting!

We arrive on shore to a beautiful welcome display created by Elleen Wano, the Londot Village spokesperson.  If you are in the area during April, May or June and want to see this spectacular ceremony, contact Elleen Wano (elleenwano66@gmail.com) or phone +678.766.1274, +678.567.3932.  

She gave a beautiful welcome speech, a highlight of her village, Londot, and a brief history of Naghol.

Then we all made our way up to the tower.  I was so excited and nervous and overjoyed to be able to witness this rare public display of the Vanuatuan culture.  The dancers are from the Bunlop Kastom village (settlements, without modern technology who try to live as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago). Traditionally, the women do not wear anything over their breasts, but many opted to cover themselves with leaves for modesty in front of the tourists,

Just as we are all getting settled on the side of the hill, as nobody wanted to sit on the benches down below (except the locals), the Bunlop Kastam singers and dancers started chanting.

The men are dressed in their traditional nambas (penis sheath) and they hold sticks.   The women are dressed in grass skirts and some have leaves covering their breasts (but traditionally they are bare chested).  

The namba is a leaf that is wrapped around the penis, then around the waist. They are easily removed and replaced throughout the day.

The men and women chant and sing during the entire ceremony.  They provide strength and support to the jumpers and praise to their gods. 

The chief of Bunlop Kastom Village was also the constructor of this tower.  He oversaw the entire ceremony and stood by the tower as each jumper leapt off their platform. 

First Jumper: 6 year old Boy

The first jumper was a 6 year old boy who jumped off the first platform.  He did not seem to phased by the height or the incredible feat he was about to perform.  He bravely stepped forward and leapt off the platform.

Second Jumper: 12 year old Boy

The second jumper was a 12 year old boy.  This was his first jump and unfortunately the fear took over.  It took him quite awhile to actually take the plunge and when he did – he did not jump properly.  He tucked his feet under him and jumped in a seated position which garnered lots of laughs from the locals.  The real problem was he could have been seriously injured as he did not have the proper form, but in the end he was alright.

Third Jumper:  Mid-20 year old 

Our third jumper was much more experienced, had perfect form, and received lots of applause.  He truly is head first into the ground and somehow he walks away uninjured.

Fourth Jumper:  Mid-30 year old

Now the fourth jumper went to the 2nd tallest platform and managed to do a little show boating prior to his jump.  He waived his arms in the air as he praised his gods and chanted along with the singers just before he plunged to the ground.

Final Jumper:  The Champion

There is a Naghol champion and he belongs to the Bunlop Kastom village.  We had the extreme pleasure of seeing him jump and he did not disappoint.  He casually walks out to the edge of the platform as he addresses the crowd and praises his gods.  He chants and sings and manages to balance on the edge of the platform for well over 2 minutes.

Then with expert precision, he dives straight off the platform (horizontal to the floor), before gravity takes over and he goes head first toward the ground.  He does appear to be a little phased once he is helped up and walks away. But, in the end he was fine and the spectators were enraptured by his jump.  Elleen, the spokesperson was saying how the villagers would be talking about this dive for a very long time.  It is understandable why he is the champion of the Pentecost land diving (Naghol).

Matt Climbs the Tower

After the ceremony, they allowed the male tourists to climb the tower.  I was really hoping to be able to do so as well but that was not happening. Matt said that the branches were a bit rickety and wobbled a bit, but he was able to climb to the top for the view.

Matt’s view from the top of the tower looking out and down.

Meeting the Bunlop chief and performers.

We caught up with the ladies.  I wish they did not have a frown on their faces as they have lovely smiles, but alas that is not their way.  They were absolutely curious to see the photos afterwards and giggled as I showed them (bottom left photo).

Matt and Rena enjoying the ceremony.  Elleen, in the red and white dress behind Rena, looking over all of the guests and ensuring their safety and enjoyment.

It was an absolutely memorable experience!  We hope that you enjoyed this blog, learned  little something along the way, and are as impressed with these brave young men from the Bunlop Kastom village as we were.  

Don’t miss Part I of our Naghol / Land Diving series.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred toward the end of June.  

Naghol the Birth of Bungee Jumping: Part I

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What is Naghol?  It is what we foreigners call Land Diving and it is said to be the birth of bungee jumping.  Men will jump from a 30 meter tower with vines tied to their ankles, headfirst as they plummet to the ground, reaching 45 miles per hour!

Please be aware there is some nudity in the photos below.

There is a very informative National Geographic documentary on land diving in the 1980s.  I think you can find it here (or google it)

The History of Naghol

Legend has it that the first Vanuatuan jumper was a woman.  She was trying to escape her abusive husband, climbed a Nabanga tree and jumped.  He followed her, leapt, and died, unaware that his wife had secured liana vines to her ankles.  For some time, only women participated in the dive until the male elders decided that they should dive to prove their courage.  And it is said that it was against their customs to see the ladies with their skirts over their heads.

It is believed that the spirits of the many women who jumped in earlier times are around to protect the tower.  Because of this, women are not allowed near the tower until the ceremony day.  And more importantly, women are not allowed to touch the tower at all.  If a woman touches the tower, the tower will be torn down and all jumping will cease for the season.

It is also said that the men are afraid the women will curse the tower and put the jumper at risk of injury so they ban them from everything except the actual ceremony.

The Belief

The naghol ceremony is performed for a number of reasons.   Naghol marks the start of the yam harvest season, April – June.  It is believed that a good dive helps ensure a bountiful yam harvest.   

Land diving is also considered an expression of masculinity as it demonstrates the boldness of a warrior.  This traditional event is not merely a test of courage; it is a significant cultural milestone marking the transition from boyhood to manhood. 

Villagers believe that land diving can enhance the health and strength of the divers. A successful dive can remove the illness and physical problems associated with the wet season. 

In addition, it is a spiritual act to appease the gods and bring prosperity to the community.

Land Diving Today

Naghol is only performed in southern Pentecost by men.  There are 3 villages that perform this extraordinary ceremony:  Ratap village (a true Kastom village), Londot village (the one we saw) and a small village by the airport.

The yams are ready to harvest at the precise time that the vines are at their best elasticity in April, May, and June of each year.  It is said that climate change has impacted their vines and has prevented them from growing as fast and as tall as they used to be.  This in turns forces the jumpers to build shorter towers and/or jump from lower platforms.

There are many, many rules that must be followed when participating in a Naghol ceremony.  For example, women are not allowed near the tower until the ceremony day.  Men are allowed to watch the build and the preparations, but women are not.  Men are allowed to climb the tower, but women are not allowed to even touch it.  They don’t even want women to walk across the dirt landing field.

The Constructor & Builders

Each tower is designed by a “constructor” and there are very few constructors in Pentecost.  It is not uncommon for the village chief to be a constructor.  It takes 20-30 men about 5-6 weeks to construct the tower.  During this time they are secluded from women.

At first glance, the tower looks like a crude and flimsy construction with branches lashed together.  But upon further inspection, you discover that it is quite an amazing piece of engineering. 

After the show we walked the beach and came across some potential future constructors.  An elder was showing the young boys how to construct the tower and platforms.  It was with great joy that the boys showed us their tower.

The Tower

The tower is constructed with branches and lianas vines found in the forest near the village.  The core of the tower is constructed near a large, solid, dead trunk of a tree, and a pole scaffolding tied together with vines stabilizing it.  The tower is made to look like a human body (use your imagination on this one). 

The men freshly cut trees, so that the tower can remain strong, to construct the body.  Then they clear a site for the tower, and remove rocks from the soil.  The soil is tilled to soften the ground. 

Every branch is placed in specific order to provide the divers with every opportunity to survive the massive leap. 

The Lianas / Vines

The lianas vines are carefully selected for their strength and elasticity. They need to be supple, elastic, and full of sap in order to be safe.  The lashings look willy nilly, but there is an art form to securing the branches together that they have mastered over the years.

The expert ways they are able to wind the lianas around each pole, stick and branch to allow for the weight of several men weighing well over 90-100 kilos is fascinating.

The tower has several lianas supporting it and tied to other strong trees.  

The Platforms

Several platforms come out about two meters from the front of the tower, supported by several struts. The lowest platform is around 10 meters, and the highest platform is near the top. They build one platform for each diver based on his level, weight, and size. 

During the jump, the platform supports snap, causing the platform to hinge downward and absorb some of the force from falling.  The far left photo shows 1 platform (at the top) ready to use and two collapsed platforms below it.   The top right photo shows a collapsed platform and the bottom right shows an unused platform.

Matt went up to see the tower the day before the ceremony (I was not allowed to go with him).  He captured these young boys learning how to become future builders and or maybe even constructors.  They certainly are fearless.

The Jumpers

During each ceremony they will have anywhere from 5-10 divers.  They “perform” based on varying levels depending on their personal ranking in the village hierarchy, the newest and youngest at the bottom.  The ceremony is performed every Tuesday and Saturday so the jumpers leap off a 30 meter tower twice per week for 3 months.

According to the Guinness World Records, the g-force experienced by those at their lowest point in the dive is the greatest experienced in the non-industrialized world by humans.

The men bravely climb the tower to their platform wearing only their nambas with a determined heart, and courageous soul. The men are not allowed to wear any lucky charms during the dive.

The performers chant, sing and dance to accompany their jumper on his journey to their platform.  The singing will crescendo as the jumper prepares to leap and then subsequently plummets to the ground.

With a final prayer on his lips, arms outstretched toward the sky, they prepare to jump.  They plunge up to 30meters (120′), head first.  See our svSugarShack Instagram account for amazing videos and stay tuned for our next blog post on the actual Naghol ceremony.

The Life Saving Vines around their Ankles

The vines are selected by a village elder and matched with each jumper’s weight without any mechanical calculations.  The lianas are chosen for their elasticity and strength and are tested and measured to ensure they are the right length for the jumper and platform. If the vine is too long, the diver can hit the ground hard, but if the vine is too short, then the diver can collide with the tower.

The ends of the vines are wrapped to keep them fresh and strong.  When the jumper has climbed to his platform, the shredded vines are unwrapped to allow the fibers to be looped around the ankles of the jumpers.  

After the show, we walked further down the road and came across Londot’s “training tower.”  It was much shorter than the actual tower, but I am sure still frightening for the first time jumpers.

It is a lot to take in, observe, and understand.  This spiritual ritual is so very rarely experienced and only found Southern Pentecost.  It was a huge honor to learn about their culture and this ritual.

Stay tuned as our next blog is all about the Naghol and actual land diving.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred toward the end of June.  In our last blog post we adventure around the island of Efate.