Tag Archives: marquesas

Nuku Hiva’s Marae

Most of the islands in French Polynesia have marae created and left behind by the local’s ancestors.  These marae are ancient open air sacred temples where many tikis are located which are personifications of divinities and heroes.  However, some islands have a great number of marae and tikis than others.  Some islands were cultural centers where elders and leaders gathered to hold ceremonies.

The Marquesas reveal their beauty and transport their visitors in a voyage out of time. Discover these treasures at the end of the world !

Nuku Hiva has a several ceremonial areas with many marae located around the grounds.  One of the biggest areas is in the main bay of Taiohae which is where we anchored while we waited for our parts to arrive.  The overall grounds are about the size of a football field.  To the far right is a covered area with a thatched roof being held up by hand-carved tikis.

Marae Grounds

Marae Grounds

In the back and behind the covered area are several large stones waiting to be carved.  I wonder if they are waiting for the next cultural festival?  You can imagine what shapes they may become, for instance the one on the lower right could be a great turtle and the one on the upper left would make a great tiki family.  The center photo probably was a light warning of hazardous waters (shallow and rocky).

Carvings Tell a Story

I wish the marae site had signs explaining their significance.  Unfortunately, there is no literature or information on them.  I do know that each carving tells a story and shares the history and culture of the local population.  The top photo depicts a family, the lower left looks like a warrior and the bottom right their food source, fish.

Marae house, fish, tiki

Marae house, fish, tiki

This little guy is well balanced and has two designs.  One on each side.  I think he is my favorite because he is so unusual.

Love this marae

Love this marae

The warrior tikis protect the bay around this marae. Then I found two bowl type carvings with lots of little tikis around the center bowl.  Super cool, maybe a baptism area?  Ha, no!

More beautiful marae

More beautiful marae

In the corner of the site is a large tiki with a book in its mouth. The book had carvings in Marquesan.

Large marea with bible in mouth

Large marea with bible in mouth

Another large marae was located in the center, on a platform.  It looked like a chief or leader flanked by guards.

Marea of leader

Marea of leader

Despite the amazing beauty of the tikis and marae, many people just walk right on by.  However, many cruisers have stopped to relish in the history.

Local performer

Waiting in Nuku Hiva

We had some time to kill while we waited on our martingale. If we had our druthers, we would have left for the southern Marquesas islands to wait for a weather window toward the Gambiers.  However, life had other plans.  We needed to follow up on our long-stay visa renewals and wait for our part.  But we are not good at waiting, so we filled our days.  So, what did we do?

Exercise

A few of my friends (Janet, Nicci, and Isabelle) and I walked almost every day.  I say, walk, but truly we did the hikes around Taihoe Bay at a moderate pace early in the morning.  There are three hikes that we rotated between:  Collette’s Bay, Gazebo Hike, and the Mare Hike.  They are each about 4-6 miles long and can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on how much we are talking or how fast we are walking.  This photo is from the Gazebo hike at the top overlooking the bay with Janet, Isabelle and I.

Hiking Partners

Hiking Partners

We also did a little yoga.  Isabelle recently got her yoga certification and graciously taught yoga several times a week.  Sometimes we had 20 people while other times we had 5.  Always a mixed bag, but lots of fun.  

Yoga Practice with Cruisers

Yoga Practice with Cruisers

Errands

Of course, we ran some errands.  We motored a lot with Wayne and the Melnar’s so we had to replenish our fuel.  Technically, we were not “low” but with 1000 miles to the Gambiers and another 1000 miles to Tahiti it was best to top up the tanks.  We borrowed 6 jerry cans (20 liters each) from Nuku Hiva Yacht Services.  This is in addition to our four 20-liter cans.  We made two trips to replenish our diesel and gasoline.

We also tried our best to provision.  Unfortunately, the supply ship has not visited Nuku Hiva since the middle of December (we are at the end of January).  Of course, it is scheduled to come a week after we leave.  We do not plan to be waiting on the supply ship.  So, the magasins were painfully empty.  We purchased what we could.

Cleaning, cleaning, cleaning.  The waterline and bottom of the boat needed some lovin!  The waters here foster some interesting growth and we had a virtual science experiment growing on our boat!

Computer Work

I volunteered to re-organize the Tuamotus, Society, and Marquesas Compendiums into an easier format.  There is lots of great information in each compendium, but it is difficult to find it.  Most people submit information in paragraph form and you have to read through a bunch of junk to get an anchorage location or find the post office.  So, I am working on re-organizing each compendium (which are over 200 pages each).  The creators have been waiting patiently for me to finish these so I’ve been working hard.

Spinnaker & Para-Sailor

As you might recall, we blew out the clew (corner) of our small spinnaker on a passage.  We have tried to get it repaired and it was too much money.  We are in the process of trying to repair it ourselves but are not convinced it will hold.

Another boat was selling a spinnaker about the same size as our small spinnaker.  They were also selling a small parasailor which we have never sailed with before.  It would be a fun sail to try out as you can use it in stronger winds and with a wider variety of wind direction. Basically, it gives you a lot more opportunity to use it than a regular spinnaker. The problem is that it is smaller than we would have liked but it could work.

We went over to Azyu to check out both sails and were really happy with their condition.  The spinnaker is a 2014 and has some use on it, but it is in really good condition.  The parasailor has only been used two times and in even better condition.  

Spinnaker Evaluation

Spinnaker Evaluation

Azyu wanted to leave and could not stand by waiting for us to make a decision.  So, we decided to purchase both sails, try them out and keep the one we like best.  We will sell the other sail when we get back to Tahiti.  We low-balled them and they accepted.  Sweet!  Basically we got both sails for about $4500.  To give you an idea of what a screaming deal we got: a spinnaker new would be $6,500 and a parasailor new is $10,000.  Maybe waiting to repair our damaged spinnaker was a good idea?

Daniel’s Bay

We decided to get away for the weekend.  We left the “main bay” of Taihoe and went to Daniel’s bay because it is so much prettier and quieter.  Our friends on Maple are here with us and we had a blast hanging out with them before they leave for the Society Islands and then Malaysia.    We hiked to the “nada-falls”, had ice-cream at Teiki’s place and dinner on each other’s boats.

Daniel's Bay HIke

Daniel’s Bay HIke

We cross the river three times before we get to the “trickle fall”  The first time you cross can be nerve racking as you try to get solid footing.  The top photo is us goofing around while crossing.  The bottom photo is us enjoying a cool down after the 7 mile walk.

Crossing the river 3x

Crossing the river 3x

Still dry and no waterfall, but a truly beautiful setting.  Daryl (top photo) reflecting on the pool), and Janet, Ella and Iris at the bottom.

At the Nada Falls

At the Nada Falls

The local fisherman go out early in the morning and come back to the dock around 0700 to clean their catch.  It is always amazing to me how big their tuna catches are!

Tuna Catch

Tuna Catch

The fisherman toss the parts into the water for the awaiting sharks.  Always fun watching the fisherman feeding the sharks at the dock.  Yep, this is where we dock our dinghy to get to shore.  Fun times waiting for the sharks to lose interest in us.

Large sharks at the dock

Large sharks at the dock

We enjoyed lots of good dinners and happy hours on our friend’s boas.  This is Nicci from Flip Flops and Janet from Maple.

Dinner with friends

Dinner with friends

Super Bowl Sunday

Our friend Kevin from Nuku Hiva Yacht Services hosted a super bowl party on his deck.  He was able to live stream it on the internet so we could watch just off the beach.  Unfortunately, we lost the signal on the last 20 minutes of the game which is when KC came from behind to win 31 to 20!  How the heck did that happen in 20 minutes. No matter, it was a great game in good company in a lovely setting.  And the half time was spectacular with J Lo and Shakira!

Super Bowl Party

Super Bowl Party

Ladies Luncheon

One of the other cruisers organized a ladies luncheon which was fabulous.  There were 9 of us from 8 countires including a woman who fenced, a skydiver, a motor cross racer, swimmer, pilot/plane builder, and one that has raised two kids and lived on a boat for the past 25 years.  An incredibly eclectic and exciting group of women.

Ladies Luncheon

Ladies Luncheon

Hike to the Saddle

Not sure why I agreed to do this, but Sophie and I hiked to the saddle which was over 152 stories (the empire state building is 100), and almost hit 10 miles!  It was a brute of a climb, but we did it!

Sophie and I hike to the saddle

Sophie and I hike to the saddle

Lots of cruise ships came into port at the end of January and into February.  The locals would gather near the dock and give them a nice welcome with drums, singing and warm greetings.  Of course, I had to take advantage of the situation and get a photo op.

Local performer

Local performer

 

Our good friend Mike on “Easy” decided to fly back to the States for a month.  unfortunately, we will be gone when he returns and are not sure when we will see him again.  He may be sailing to Hawaii then Oregon while we are going to New Zealand.  So, it seemed like a great time to have a party.  Over 20 people came to Sugar Shack to honor Mike!

Mike's Going Away Party

Mike’s Going Away Party

Matt decided to a monstrous hike to the antennae which is almost the tallest peak of the island.  I opted to skip out as it was way too high.  It was well over 6.5 miles to the top and another to return and I think it concluded at a 14 mile hike and well over 3,000 elevation.

Above, I mentioned that I hiked to the saddle (red arrow), but Matt took it further and hiked to the blue arrow.  A huge 5-hour hike.

Matt's hike to the antennae

Matt’s hike to the antennae

View from the top of the mountain, taken by Matt

View from the top

View from the top

Martingale installed

Aging Gracefull? The Rigging Part II

Our Catana 471 has running rigging and standing rigging.  The standing rigging supports the mast and allows the boat to “sail.”  Kinda important.  When there is a problem with the standing rigging it is beyond worrisome and prevents us from doing anything that might possibly make it worse.

In the last blog we showed the damage of the martingale (or seagull striker).  We thought we had it all worked out with a local vendor in Tahiti, but it all went to hell in a hand basket.  I thought it was going a little too smoothly and fast for island life.  Read Part I of this series

After the disappointing failure of Mat Rigging, we quickly searched for a Plan B and a Plan C.

Our Catana 471 has running rigging and standing rigging.  The standing rigging supports the mast and allows the boat to “sail.”  Kinda important.  When there is a problem with the standing rigging it is beyond worrisome and prevents us from doing anything that might possibly make it worse.

In the last blog we showed the damage of the martingale (or seagull striker).  We thought we had it all worked out with a local vendor in Tahiti, but it all went to hell in a hand basket.  I thought it was going a little too smoothly and fast for island life.  Read Part I of this series

After the disappointing failure of Mat Rigging, we quickly searched for a Plan B and a Plan C.

Plan B

Kevin at Nuku Hiva Yacht Services (NHYS) has a rigging company in Massachusetts, Rigging Only, that he has worked with on a number of occasions and they are familiar with shipping to French Polynesia.  However, there are lots of fees involved.  The costs of the parts and manufacturing (of course), shipping to FP $400, customs $200, NHYS $135.  Yikes.

Plan C

We find a company in the States and ship it to a fellow cruiser who is on holiday in San Francisco and they bring it back as excess luggage.  This is the cheapest method, but it would involve putting a rush on the parts and manufacturing and asking someone we do not know well to carry a 4’x4’x1’ 50lb package as excess baggage half way across the world.

We ended up create a Plan D.  We worked with Kevin and his vendor, but we ordered and paid for the parts directly.  Great for two reasons.  (1) we got miles using our credit card and (2) we did not have to pay Kevin 10% to do this for us.  We will pay Kevin to be our shipping agent and to help us get the package through customs, but that fee is only $45.    Funny though, the fees (shipping, customs, and NHYS) will cost almost as much as the parts and manufacturing.

Rigging Only

Wow, I have forgotten how easy it is to work with American companies.  Please do not take the customer service you receive on a day to day basis for granted!  We emailed all of the specs, reconfirmed all of the part numbers, and called them to make the payment.  They received all parts the next day, manufactured our martingale and got it in Fedex by end of that same day!

Now, it is just a waiting game.  We have set up notifications to get alerts on the status of the package.  All said and good, but to be honest, once it arrives in Tahiti it could sit in customs for weeks.

Shipping

We scheduled automatic updates with FedEx which sometimes worked and sometimes didn’t.  Luckily, we were in a wifi zone and could constantly check the website for updates.  It left the shop in MA on Thursday and arrived in San Francisco on Friday.  On Saturday it was in Hawaii.  Then it traveled to Australia on Sunday (which is technically their Monday).  From Australia it went to New Zealand here it sat for 2 days.  Then it arrived in Tahiti on Wednesday.  It was cleared out of customs by Thursday night (yep, can you believe it?).  And finally, in our hot little hands by Friday afternoon!

Our package arrives

Our package arrives

Must admit that it looked too short once we opened the box.  I was hyperventilating.  

Martingale all wrapped up

Martingale all wrapped up

It looked way to short, but thankfully it wasn’t.  I think I am manufacturing issues in my head.

Measuring out the new martingale

Measuring out the new martingale

Matt had to secure the mast to ensure it would move or do anything stupid like fall over. He then carefully removed his safety line across the bow sprit that was used as a secondary martingale.  Then he created a tension line from bow to bow to see how the tension changed on the bow as we released the martingale.

Tension Line

Tension Line

Removing the Damaged Martingale

It is a process removing the old martingale.  After we secured the main, Matt began the process of removing the old martingale.  First, he removed the two screws from the center.

Removal of screws

Removal of screws

Next, he loosened the turnbuckle (port) using two large wrenches.  He did not remove it, just loosened it so that he could remove the pin on the opposite side.

Loosening the turnbuckle

Loosening the turnbuckle

Next, he removed the cotter pin, which held in the pin inside the toggle.  We had to be very, very careful not to drop the pin over board as it is the only one that fits our hole.  You see, when we replaced the martingale in St. Maartin, they realized that the new pin was too large for our existing hole.  So, they just re-used the old pin.  Not a big deal.  It looks a little small inside the hole on the toggle, but fits perfectly inside the hole on the boat. 

Removal of the cotter pin

Removal of the cotter pin

Once the toggle and pin were removed, he went back to the turnbuckle and removed it.  It is a left-hand thread on the left side and a right-hand thread to the martingale.  Which is why we could not use the one that Mat Rigging suggested which was a left-hand thread.  It would have been two left-hand threads into the turnbuckle which would not work.

Installing the New Martingale

Wow, Matt made this look so easy.  He squirted some tef gel into the hole where the pin goes.  It is made of aluminum and the pin is stainless.  The tef gel prevents corrosion.  The pin slid in nicely and in goes the cotter pin.  One side done.

Inserting the new cotter pin and main pin

Inserting the new cotter pin and main pin

Next Matt humored me by allowing me to rotate the turn buckle to tighten the martingale.  It was all easy peazy with the tef gel on but once we passed that mark it got really hard.  So, Matt took over with the two large wrenches.  Tighten until the tension line returns to its previous state, test the martingale, tighten, rinse and repeat until we get the tension just right.  Matt then screwed in the turnbuckle so it would not move or rotate while the rig is under pressure.

Tightening the Turnbuckle

Tightening the Turnbuckle

Put the screws back on the top to secure the center.

Screws go back in place

Screws go back in place

And final step, close off the cotter pin to ensure the pin does not go anywhere. The ends are curled up preventing it from escaping through the hole.  If the cotter pin comes out then the main pin holding the starboard toggle can come out.  So, a secure cotter pin is best.  The white gook is the tef gel.

Cotter pin secured

Cotter pin secured

New martingale installed

Martingale installed

Martingale installed

Old vs new near the swage mark at the turnbuckle

Old vs new cable

Old vs new cable