Tag Archives: living the dream

A Hairy Chain and a Hot Hike

Spanish Waters is a relatively big bay with four distinct anchorages and 5 marinas.  Despite the large sailing community in this area, both permanent and transient boats, there is not sufficient water flow within the anchorage which causes significant growth on your bridle and anchor chain.  We had installed a 100 meters of brand new stainless steel chain while moored in Bonaire.  Within a few weeks at our Curacao anchorage we had significant growth.  What does “significant” mean?

Let’s rewind for a minute.  You might recall, we had a bit of a challenging time finding a good place to set the hook when we first arrived.  After several attempts we ended up about 100 meters into one of the many channels but since the winds were blowing 25 kn we decided to stay where we were.  Then we had to let out another 10 meters of chain because another boat anchored too close to our bow so we were even further in the channel. It was not “the main” channel, but a channel none the less.  When we let our chain out another 10 meters we had to pull up the chain to remove the bridle in order to let more chain out and that is when we saw just how bad the growth was.  You could not even see the stainless it was so long and thick. I would have taken a photo, but we were in the midst of re-anchoring and I just couldn’t get to my camera. Matt tried to clean the top part as best he could before we dropped it again.

Fast forward, 6 days later, we finally had a low wind day (blowing 15 kn) and a spot opened up in front of us so we decided to to move the boat.  Which meant we had to pull up all of the chain.  Much to our surprise, it was not as bad as we thought.  The chain that was dangling in the water along with our bridle were of course the worse because the remaining 55 meters rubbed against the sea floor keeping the growth down to a minimum.

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

After 6 days, the belly (or kellet) of the chain that hangs in the water already is growing hair.

6 days of growth.

6 days of growth.

Our bridal has been submerged for 3 weeks and check out the long locks on it – can you even see the stainless hook we use?

For our landlubbers, a bridle is used to limit the movement of the boat at anchor.  One line is tied to the starboard bow, another line is tied to the port bow and they are connected by dyneema (a really uber strong line) and stainless steel connectors.  The image below are the two lines and the stainless steel connection point that is hooked on to the anchor chain to limit movement.  Here is an interesting blog with images for anchoring Best Practices for Anchoring.

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where's the stainless?

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where’s the stainless?

Matt also had to pull up our 2nd fortress anchor that we put out for the storm.  It took him awhile as the anchor had a lot of load on it for several days and he had to pull it up by hand, in strong winds and current.

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Now we are safely anchored inside the anchorage (well technically we are right on the corner), but inside is better than outside.  As soon as we moved a monohull came in and took our old spot – in the channel.

As we look out our boat, just off the starboard side, there is a mountain called Kabrietenberg (or mountain of the goats).  The entire trip is about 5.4 km and the highest peak is 78 meters high – should take a few hours.  We were told that there are a few caves toward the top and a really cool Indian statue next to one of the openings.  So, Matt and I decided to go exploring.  We took the dinghy over to the dock and began our walk.

We walked past Pop’s Place and Fort Beekenburg (which we had already visited on a previous adventure) and the Quarantine House.  In 1874 the area of ​​Caracas Bay was designated as a quarantine station for ships of infectious disease on board. The garrison buildings near the fort were set up as a hospital for sick seamen.  South, on the corner of the bay, in 1883 the observation device for healthy sailors built, the Quarantine Building which is where the sailors had to stay until it was determined that they were not infected. There is a legend that this building is haunted, but if you are interested it is for sell for a mere 270,000 euro.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House interior.

Quarantine House interior.

We left the quarantine house and rounded  the corner to Tug Boat Beach.  We were so excited to visit this little beach which was named after the tug boat that was accidentally sunk years ago.  A new beach bar was recently built in June by using random parts and pieces around the island.  Unfortunately, we did not bring our snorkel gear and the bar was closed so we will have to come back another time.

Tug Boat Beach.

Tug Boat Beach.

After we left Tug Boat beach we headed up Kabrietenberg mountain with the hopes of finding the caves and our Indian.  It was a relatively easy hike with a small dirt path and lots of cactus to duck, dive, twist and jump over.  We ventured off several smaller trails, came across some beautiful scenic stops with views of Santa Barbara Beach and marina, Spanish Waters, and the ocean.  We found several caves, but no Indian.  Hmph….we must be in the wrong spot or did we miss him?

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Small cave we walked around.

Small cave we walked around.

We decided it would be best if we just kept moving forward instead of circling back as we had already circled most of the mountain.  Not sure we were still on a “path” but we found a walking area by the mangroves and ended up back by the main road.

Our little Indian will have to wait for us, until, we go exploring again.

Propane Pizza, and Parties

We are trying to get our blog caught up with reality so we have been posting 3 updates each week.  Unfortunately, we are still about 4-5 weeks behind so be patient with us as we try to get you up to date.

Matt and I have been enjoying our time in Curacao, we have learned the bus system and found a super duper handy website that tells us where the buses are so we don’t have to wait outside in the heat.  We make use of the free daily bus (except Sunday) that takes boaters to the market each morning and we have met some new friends.

As we were coming into Spanish Waters for the first time a few weeks ago, a couple was enjoying some downtime at the Santa Barbara Beach Resort.  They have been thinking about buying a boat, saw us come in to the anchorage and decided to google “Sugar Shack” which brought up our blog.  They read a little about us and sent us a message.  We met them for happy hour and thoroughly enjoyed their company.  They are from the Netherlands, have a 5th wheel and travel the U.S. and have a home here in Curacao.  Thom created a really useful and awesome product called Thom’s Planner.  If you use a gant chart or an excel spreadsheet to track projects, weddings, events, or schedules, I strongly encourage you to check out his product as it is simple, intuitive, and very easy to use.  Bianca, his wife, is an amazingly talented artist who sells her work all over the world.  Check out her Facebook page.


During happy hour, we mentioned our crazy propane adventure (see post from 8/1) and he took pity on us!  He offered to drive us to get refills (an 3 other boaters who were in a similar situation).  He met us at Fisherman’s Harbor, and drove us to Curoil (a gas station in Muizenberg) which was about 20 minutes by car.  We piled our tanks into the back of his truck and headed out.  When we arrived, the attendant who was new, informed us that the woman who knew how to handle our American style fittings just left for an errand and would be back in an hour – bummer.  Oh well, we decided to head to Goisco MegaStore which is like a Walmart on steroids.  It was a win win for everyone as we all walked away with something.  I found my coveted diet gingerale and Matt found some fresh jalapenos!  Sweet.  Back to Curoil where we were we filled up our 20lb tank for a whopping $9!  Yep, you read that right.  We paid $40 in St. Marteen.  The funny thing is, it would have cost $4.50 to fill up as a home unit, but they considered our tank to be a BBQ unit so we had to pay double.  No problem as double was still waaaay cheaper than any other island.  We will have to come back here to top up our tanks before we leave–for shizzle.

Goisco has quite the candy selection and this is only part of their selection.

Goisco has quite the candy selection and this is only part of their selection.

They also have a pretty extensive produce department.

They also have a pretty extensive produce department.

Thom and Bianca invited us over for pizza night as they recently installed a new pizza oven.  So, we took Sweet N Low over to Fisherman’s Harbor and walked to their house as it was less than a mile away.  Their home was beautiful and had a breathtaking view of Spanish Waters (including our boat).  Every room was peppered with Bianca’s artwork.  They invited a few other friends who live on the island and we had a glorious time!  What a fabulous night with new friends, tasty food, and titillating conversations.  We hope to spend a lot more time with our new friends including dinner on Sugar Shack.

Bianca & the first of many scrumptious pies on pizza night!

Bianca & the first of many scrumptious pies on pizza night!

Thom & Bianca's pizza oven.

Thom & Bianca’s pizza oven.

Over the course of the night, Thom and Bianca served up between 8-10 pies ranging from vegetarian, to meat to cheese lovers!  I didn’t think they would be eaten, but somehow we all gobbled them up!

Thom’s dad has a sailboat so they have a sailing background.  They plan to charter a catamaran in the Virgin Islands to get their feet wet in the Caribbean and we look forward to being a part of their new adventure.  It’s been a lot of fun helping them with questions (as much as we can) and providing some guidance of what its like to live on a boat.  But, since they have already lived in a 5th wheel they have some of the hardest transitioning items covered, such as limited water and electricity, traveling light, and being in a home that is mobile.  Either way, we hope to continue seeing our new friends out on the big blue watery road!

What do you do ALL day?

To put it simply, we do every day tasks and chores that take all day.   Part is exploring, part is accomplishing, and part is failure.

Between he sunsets we forage

Exploring, that fine art of looking to see what resources are where and when they are available, it involves wandering around or taking busses, or taxi or renting a car if necessary.   We will wander through every grocery store or convenience store we see and walk the isles looking for the “unobtanium“.  The  hard part becomes remembering what you saw and WHERE you saw it, when it becomes and item on the list, grocery or boat task.  Also talking to other cruisers on the shopping bus and the perpetual happy hour to share what has been learned in the short amount of time we have amassed on the island.

Accomplishing, the fine art of knocking something off “the list”   The list always grows and order of precedence changes daily based on availability and level of need.  Grocery runs become easier the longer you stay in the same spot as you know what you will find, assuming you can remember where you exploration took you.    

Failure, when seemingly easy tasks don’t get completed during the desired period of time.  Today for example, we had done the exploration and talked to lots of folks who seemed to know what they were talking about.  Our thought for today’s mission was to fill up a propane tank that had recently run out, a couple days ago.  Not to worry we have a backup 20 pounder and lots of 5 and 7 pounders as backups.   

Exploration was on the internet and noon site – where it says to contact Propane Paul and he will get it done for you, even delivers to your boat.  Contact info had a phone number – Great call that…Oops, out of minutes on the Digicel voice – okay no issues, a top up is in order.   Can do that online, but our data plan was fubar – luckily we have a backup to that when on the boat and used the Sugar Shack WiFi which ain’t too bad, 5Gb up and down in the middle of the night, not so great during the day tho.   We managed to get a top up of minutes and make the call.   “Cellular customer you are trying to reach is out of the area or has phone turned off”  – Great an hour plus spent trying to figure out the TopUp procedure for not, failure.   Contact option #2, Paul is on a boat in the bay and picks up at the local sailing center.  Dinghy ride it is.  Dinghy on over, start asking questions, get directed to his house, spot his boat on the way – no one home.  Talk the neighbor on the dock and learn that Paul is out delivering a boat to Europe and won’t be back for a while, and not sure if he is doing the propane thing any more.   Failure again.   Over the course of several shopping buses we chatted with other cruisers who were looking for LPG but wanted it filled in their European bottles.   And they had said the gas station on the bus route will fill them for them if they had the correct fitting.  So on our walk about on the Apple Mission, we stopped in a Kooyman – local HomeDepot but clean and shinny with great customer service.  Low and behold they sold american style propane tanks to go with the bbqs, so we asked 2 different folks if we needed an adapter for our american 20lb tanks.  Of course we got a different answer than I had just got when asking a guy on the street who was selling food out of food truck with propane, he said we needed an adapter Kooyman said no – just go to the gas station.   Filled with doubt and full of hope, we tasked Saturday with filling the Propane because what else do we have to do this morning.

Jumped on the shopping bus, asked Angelo to stop early at the gas station so we wouldn’t have to carry the empty bottle that far.   Perfect, we roll up the ladies in the cage, we ask about propane, I show her the bottle.  And then it starts…the shaking of the head.  Uh-Oh – not a good sign.   She says we need to go to the place next to the KFC in Santa Rosa, uh?  How do we get there, she says hold on, closes the small window and eventually says it’s 2 bus rides to get there.   Hmm.. Decision time, we can walk back and catch the shopping bus back to the boat, or continue on this quest.   Continue gets the nod, out comes Maps.Me again.  We search for KFC and low and behold it comes up.  Only 2.3 miles away.  Now walk or take the bus to downtown and then a 2nd bus to Santa Marta.  Walk got the nod.   Luckily its the empty tank and we’ll take the 2 buses on the way back for sure.  Battery running low on iPhone we spot the KFC and shortly the CurOil where this magical propane tank is.  So close to success.   Spot the other locals getting tanks filled, ask what the process is, and learn you have to pay first.  I again show the lady behind the window the tank and the american valve, and almost immediately she starts to shake her head.    What I just carried this tank over 2 miles and there is an issue?  Another attendant came over and explained the machine for our valve is not working, and mentioned that the one that is working is on the other side of town, another 2 bus rides away.   Ugh, so I ask when will their machine will be fixed, and he levels with me and said its been broken for over a year.   

At least its a light propane tank to lug around for miles

Well then, beat hot and tired of all this walking and exploring the past week, we catch a mini bus – the ones that change the prices based on the way they feel.   We asked the locals on the bus what it cost, but when we went to get off and pay that amount we had to add and extra Naf each, for the same route – oh to add insult to injury we arrived at 10:02am at the main bus station and our bus left at 10 and next one at 11am.  We made the most of it, went to the fresh fruit market and scored some deliciousness fresh from Venezuela for a 10Naf, or about $5 USD.

Yum fresh from Venezuela.

Yum fresh from Venezuela.

Back to the boat to watch the windsurfers and sailing class enjoy the gusts to 30 knots in the anchorage.   

Youth sailing practice.

Windsurfers enjoying the breeze