Tag Archives: living the dream

Sugar Shack Motoring

San Blas Islands: Beauty Abound

After a week in Linton Bay, we needed a change, so we pulled up anchor and headed back to the San Blas islands.  It was not an ideal time to leave as the winds were pretty strong, but we needed to go and did not want to get stuck in the doldrums that were forecasted later in the week.

The anchor chain was pretty mucky, so we pressure washed it as it came up which made for slow going.  But, Davey, our hook which is a “spade hook” came up clean.  Get it?  David Spade?  Ya, weird sense of humor, I know.

We made it through the reefs and around the corner with the wind on our nose.  We were going to head north before we headed east as the wind and waves would push us south and we did not want to be pushed into the reefs.  It was going to be a bumpy and uncomfortable ride.  Estimated 45 miles at 5 knots would take 8.5 hours.

Sugar Shack Motoring

Sugar Shack Motoring

Within a few hours, Matt noticed that the batteries were not charging correctly.  The engines should be providing 118 amps and we were only getting 18 amps. Crap!  Matt fussed with the regulator but was not able to get it working properly.  No easy task while under way, in a hot engine compartment, under heavy seas.  Something to fix when we are at anchor.

A few hours later, Matt discovered that our Starboard tank was empty.  WTF!  We turned the watermaker on to fill up Starboard that was at 1/8th of a tank.  We didn’t want to make water while in Linton Bay as the water was murky and we were toward the back of the anchorage where the trash and debris flowed past us.  With the watermaker running, we should have made 20-30 gallons and yet the indicator showed empty, 0.  Not good.  Matt climbed back in the engine room only to find a bilge full of water.  The pressure from the watermaker caused a hose to pop off giving a new escape route for all of our freshly made water – into the bilge instead of into our tanks.  Matt replaced the hose, and we were back in business, but now it would take over 10 hours to fill just the starboard tank.

Later in the afternoon, I alerted Matt that the wind speed and direction stopped working.  Not again.  It would give us wind direction but no speed or speed and no wind direction or nothing at all.  Crap.  This is our new wind vang that we just put up a few weeks ago.  The data would come and go throughout the rest of the day, all we could do is carry on.  Seems like a day for breakdowns.

Luckily, fairly easy repairs – hopefully.

  • Matt fixed the watermaker leak on the starboard tank with a new hose.
  • Matt thinks the charging issue is a short or a fuse.
  • Wind Vang not diagnosed yet, but I am sure Matt will figure it out!

While Matt was fixing things, I was at the helm most of the day fighting off the urge to get seasick.  We had an average of 33-35 knots of winds with gusts over 40, an average of 4 meter waves (12’) with some peaking 5+ meters (15’) at 5-6 second intervals.  It was a rough passage, but we made it to San Blas before dark.

Sailing Log to San Blas:

  • Total Miles 49.2
  • Average Speed 5.1 knots
  • Max Speed: 9.4 knots (must have been a rogue wave)
  • Total Moving Time: 9 hours, 39 minutes
Celebrating Christmas Eve with Barry

Christmas in Linton Bay

It is always a bit strange celebrating Christmas in the islands as it doesn’t quite like feel like Christmas.  And yet, we have spent the last 7 Christmas’s away from the mainland.  The temperature is hot, the skies are blue, the water is clear, and there is no hustle and bustle.  No malls or shopping, no big parties or white elephants.  It’s merely a small gathering or private celebration.

Yet, I still find that I bring some of my traditions with me each year.  I have a small Christmas locker where I store my limited decorations; a wooden tree with a few ornaments and miniature lights, holiday hats, and a few odds and ends.  In addition to displaying my meager holiday collection, I do a cookie baking day.

Christmas Towels: Who do they belong too?

Christmas Towels: Who do they belong too?

Cookie Baking Day is a tradition started by my grandmother where we would all gather in her kitchen and make a variety of cookies for the family.  Once I moved to Texas I carried on the tradition with my friends which was the highlight of the season for me.  On the boat, its very hard to have more than one person in the galley so I tend to make a few batches of cookies myself and share them with other cruisers.  Not the really the same, but it allows me to enjoy the gift giving.

Originally, we were going to head back to San Blas for the holidays, but several cruisers decided to have a potluck on Christmas Eve in Linton Bay.  There is a large building, in mid-construction that has been designated the future marina headquarters.  But, funding has run out and it is now used as a gathering space out of the sun.  Fernanda on “Allegra” organized the potluck, brought a small tree, an extension cord for the lights, and arranged tables and chairs for everyone.  There was a wonderful selection of food, sweets, and beverages.

Matt and I on Christmas Eve

Matt and I on Christmas Eve

Christmas morning was quiet and relaxing, we had xmas tunes playing, ate some cookies, and lounged a bit.  By mid-day we were feeling antsy and decided to head to shore to go for a walk. But, as we approached the dock we noticed a lively group gathered around a BBQ.  Another boat hosted this Christmas day celebration with burgers, shrimp skewers, sides, cookies, beer, and music. It was a sparkling celebration with people from Germany, Sweden, London, Spain, and America.

Celebrating Christmas Eve with Barry

Celebrating Christmas Eve with Barry

Matt and I retired back to the boat where he made another batch of pulled pork from the pork shoulder we acquired at the fresh market in Colon.  It was equally fabulous and tasty and a wonderful Christmas dinner.  About an hour later, friends from “Wandering Rose” stopped by to share a toddy and spread some more holiday cheer.

HOLIDAY CHEER CHECK LIST:

  • Good Friends
  • Beer
  • Holiday Music
  • Funny Hats
  • Christmas Tree
Public Bus to Portobello

Bus Ride to Portobello

We anchored in the back of Linton Bay, closer to Puerto Lindo which is really rolly. In addition to the rolling waves, the pangas come by, rather fast, to and from the port which makes it even more uncomfortable. We were up early and decided to catch the bus to Portobello to try to find a SIM card and get off the dolly boat.

On the way to the marina, we ran into Sam and Toby from “Sweet Chariot” and told them that we were heading to Portobello. They had just cleared in to Panama and needed to finish up with Immigration at Portobello so they decided to come with us. We were told to hop on the bus going the opposite direction, toward “La Guia” to secure a seat. Had we waited for it to make the circle, we would have had to stand for the hour trip. As the bus was approaching we were greeted with a high pitch squealing sound – almost like a whistle. But that was pushed out of our minds when we actual saw the bus coming toward us. It was all chromed and blinged out, highly decorated with sparkle, shine, feathers, and glitter!

Public Bus to Portobello

Public Bus to Portobello

Once seated, we quickly realized the high pitch sound was actually the breaks, or lack there of. Our driver was very skilled and mastered the twists and turns at break neck speeds causing a few to get motion sick. But, we made it safe and sound an hour later and quickly exited after paying $1.40 each.

Portobello is a very small town. It consists of a fort, 5 Chinese stores, a few panderias, a beautiful gallery, a few tourist shops, and a church. I am sure there is more to it, but this is what we saw after exploring for 4 hours.

The little school of rhythm in Portobello, Panama.

The little school of rhythm in Portobello, Panama.

The bus dropped us off at one of the Chinese grocery stores, so we all went in to check it out.  I stopped at the counter to ask if they sold Digicel sim cards as that was my priority and to our surprise they did!  The lady was extremely helpful and sold us our sim and top up cards good for a month.

Sam and Toby went off to find immigration as Matt and I explored  Fort San Lorenzo. This fort was built in 1758 and was in pretty good shape.  It faced the bay where very few boats were anchored.  Most of the boats seemed like “derelict” boats minus of course, one of our cruiser buddies, “Kokopelli” who came here to finish with their immigration process as well.

View of Fort San Lorenzo approaching from the street.

View of Fort San Lorenzo approaching from the street.

For San Lorenzo entrance. Look closely at the date above the arch.

For San Lorenzo entrance. Look closely at the date above the arch.

Fort San Lorenzo entrance with lovely cross.

Fort San Lorenzo entrance with lovely cross.

Inside Fort San Lorenzo.

Inside Fort San Lorenzo.

As we continued down the waterfront, signs indicated a dead end.  We thought we would go to the end and turn up toward the main road.  At the end of the road was a beautiful gallery full of magnificent wooden carved pieces, paintings, artwork, jewelry and more.  It was almost something you’d see in L.A., N.Y. or other high end area.  Gorgeous stuff.  Just past this gallery is a small eatery where we encountered Brian and Mizzy from Kokopelli. After we caught up with them for a few minutes we wandered back through town, through the Chinese grocery stores, and to the church

Iglesia de San Juan de Dios (church) is well known for its Black cruicifix/black Christ or El Christo Negro.  A small tour group was going through so I was only able to snap a few photos.  Nobody knows how El Christo Negro arrived in Portobello, but they have tried to move it several times and it always returns to Portobello.  Twice a year they change His robes and during Holy week, people will walk as far as 50 miles to the celebration, some on hands and knees, some carrying crosses, some on bellies.

Iglesia de San Juan de Dios

Iglesia de San Juan de Dios

Interior of Iglesia de San Juan de Dios

Interior of Iglesia de San Juan de Dios

El Christo Negro at Iglesia de San Juan de Dios

El Christo Negro at Iglesia de San Juan de Dios

Purple is the color for this church in honor of the color of the robes worn during Christ’s crucifixion.  The priests wear purple and the rosary beads and all the trinkets they sell are in purple.

Pretty rosary beads in purple.

Pretty rosary beads in purple.

We found the tourist office which had some pretty displays of festival / carnival masks.

Carnival mask at Customs office.

Carnival mask at Customs office.

Carnival festival clothing in Customs Office.

Carnival festival clothing in Customs Office.

Past noon, we were all hungry so we ordered lunch at a panderia and made good use of their wifi. We installed our new sim cards, downloaded the local Digicel app, and tried to upload the data but no luck.  So, we decided to check the return bus time and do some provisioning.  The best store turned out to be the first store we visited where we bought the sim cards.  At check out, she asked if the phones worked and I said “no”.  She worked on our phone for at least 20 minutes before finally getting it to work.  This lady took the sim card out of her phone to active Sam & Toby’s card as their phone had 1% battery life. Wow, now that is customer service!

It took us several attempts to find the right bus going back to La Guia / Puerto Lindo.  After an hour we were on our way back to the marina.

We headed toward Hans restaurant in Puerto Lindo since the marina bar was closed today.  We enjoyed some libations and chow with “Sweet Chariot,” “Hecla,” “Wandering Rose,” and a new group of cruisers.

Accomplishments:

  • SIM Cards
  • Provisioning
  • Tour Fort San Lorenzo
  • Find El Christo Negro
  • Eat
  • Wifi it up!