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The Authentic Kastom Village of Fanla

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We came to Ambrym to see the legendary Fanla Rom Dance Festival.  This festival is held in the small, remote village of Fanla located up in the mountains.  Fanla is a true kastom village which is dedicated to preserving the Vanuatu traditional ways in culture, religion, economics, art, and magic.

We anchor at Ranon Bay which is the closest anchorage to Fanla.  This is a beautiful, large bay with a lovely village near the shore (see our blog post on Ranon).  

The Fanla Festival Program

This is a two day festival featuring ROM dances, black magic, sand drawing, and the rarely seen grade taking ritual.  Grade taking is specific to Ambrym and is where the men perform certain activities and pay significant amounts of money and pig tusks to increase their rank in the village.

There is so much to share about each event within the festival that I have broken them out into separate blog posts.  However, here are the highlights of what is to come:

Fanla Festival: ROM, a Mystical Cultural Event

The ROM dance is a sacred, magical event.  A few men are selected to perform the ROM dance as part of their grade taking ceremony.  The ROM dance includes very elaborate costumes and a hand made tribal mask.

This will be two parts:  One on the actual ROM dance and one on the beautiful, magical ROM masks and costumes.

Fanla Festival: Black Magic and Sand Drawing

An sorcerer performs several variations of sand drawing. Sand drawing is drawn from memory without lifting the finger and is a complete, complex pattern.

Drum and flute demonstrations will be played, several variations of dances will be performed and we will witness a small display of mysterious black magic performed by a special sorcerer, ‘the man blong blak majik’.

Fanla Festival: Grade Taking Ceremony

We witness two chiefs elevate from a level 11 grade to a level 12 grade which makes them the highest ranking men in all of Vanuatu.  The ceremony, steeped in tradition, includes several dances, songs, chants, and pig killing.  

But before we get to the festival, let’s talk about the very unique kastom village of Fanla.

The Kastom Village of Fanla

Fanla is located through the forest and up in the mountain. We hired a guide to show us the way to Fanla, since we were not 100% certain of its location. Freddy Roromal came down from Fanla to show us the “shortcut which would cut 20 minutes off our hike.  The route along the road takes 60-75 minutes and our short cut route took 45 minutes.

It is a relatively easy “walk” albeit mostly up hill.  When it rains it becomes very muddy but it is not a difficult climb. 

Fanla is one of the oldest villages in Ambrym and they have the two highest grade chiefs in all of Vanuatu.  This kastom village itself has a mix of concrete houses and traditional huts.  It appears many of the young people went to larger villages and returned with money to build strong, more secure homes for their families.

Fanla boasts of one of the most unique banyan trees in the country.  It is a female banyan tree that has a naturally grown “cave” on the back side of the tree.  The elders of the village used to hide skulls in the cave to prevent their enemies from stealing them.

From the front, the tree looks like a typical banyan tree.  But as you round the backside you see the very large opening.  They have strategically placed two stone carved tikis to protect the tree.  Once you walk in you turn to the left and there is a further path into the center of the tree.

Tour of Fanla

We continue our tour of the Fanla Village and come to the grave site of the eldest chief of the village.  This is chief who met Captain Cook when he arrived to Ambrym.  The chief gave Captain Cook a yam.  When the chief offered the yam to him he said “yam rim” which means my yam for you.  Captain Cook thought that he said the name of the island is  “yam rim.” This is how Ambrym got its name.

In exchange for the yam, Captain Cook presented the chief with a piece of metal. The chief created a special carving tool using the metal piece. This special tool is used in the highest levels of the grade taking ceremony carvings.  The chief showed us the 250 year old tool and allowed us to hold it.  It is amazing to me to be able to hold such an authentic piece of history in my hands!

The top photo is the burial site.  The villagers lay out the moss covered stones in the shape of pig tusks (which is the highest honor).  The chief earns hundreds of tusks over his lifetime and they are all buried with him.  This site is considered “tabu.” You can only visit with express permission from the current chief and with a guide.

The top right photo is the “secret” place of the high chief. The chief chooses to live alone and prepare his own meals.  He does not accept visitors (not even his wife). More on this in the grade-taking ceremony blog.

Me, the Leader?

As many of you know, I am extremely active in the cruising community.  I have produced 8 compendiums for various countries which are complete sailing guides (200+ pages each).  I am an administrator on several cruising forums, social media groups, and WhatsApp groups. Many cruisers turn to Sugar Shack for guidance and assistance and I consider it a huge honor.

I was able to gather 18 cruisers for the Fanla festival.  This is the largest group they’ve had attend and the villagers considered me the “leader.”  

I am so excited to share the many cultural events and stories we’ve learned about here in Fanla.  Follow along with us for the next couple of weeks to read all about it!

A new tribe of girls…they just to play with my hair.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Falna around Mid-July 2024.  Did you read about the beautiful bays of Ambrym in our last blog post?

A Death Defying Leap: Land Part II

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In southern Pentecost, the locals believe Naghol (land diving) will bring them a fruitful yam harvest, good health, and prosperity to the community.  In addition, Naghol is an act of courage for the men and a right of passage for the young boys to enter manhood.

Be sure to read Part I of our Naghol / Land Diving Series called “Naghol, the Birth of Bungee Jumping.”  

Please be aware that there is nudity in some of the images below.

Ceremony Day

We had several of our cruising friends join us for this monumental occasion.  We all anchored in Wali Bay on the southern end of Pentecost.  From our anchorage we could see the tower – how exciting!

We arrive on shore to a beautiful welcome display created by Elleen Wano, the Londot Village spokesperson.  If you are in the area during April, May or June and want to see this spectacular ceremony, contact Elleen Wano (elleenwano66@gmail.com) or phone +678.766.1274, +678.567.3932.  

She gave a beautiful welcome speech, a highlight of her village, Londot, and a brief history of Naghol.

Then we all made our way up to the tower.  I was so excited and nervous and overjoyed to be able to witness this rare public display of the Vanuatuan culture.  The dancers are from the Bunlop Kastom village (settlements, without modern technology who try to live as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago). Traditionally, the women do not wear anything over their breasts, but many opted to cover themselves with leaves for modesty in front of the tourists,

Just as we are all getting settled on the side of the hill, as nobody wanted to sit on the benches down below (except the locals), the Bunlop Kastam singers and dancers started chanting.

The men are dressed in their traditional nambas (penis sheath) and they hold sticks.   The women are dressed in grass skirts and some have leaves covering their breasts (but traditionally they are bare chested).  

The namba is a leaf that is wrapped around the penis, then around the waist. They are easily removed and replaced throughout the day.

The men and women chant and sing during the entire ceremony.  They provide strength and support to the jumpers and praise to their gods. 

The chief of Bunlop Kastom Village was also the constructor of this tower.  He oversaw the entire ceremony and stood by the tower as each jumper leapt off their platform. 

First Jumper: 6 year old Boy

The first jumper was a 6 year old boy who jumped off the first platform.  He did not seem to phased by the height or the incredible feat he was about to perform.  He bravely stepped forward and leapt off the platform.

Second Jumper: 12 year old Boy

The second jumper was a 12 year old boy.  This was his first jump and unfortunately the fear took over.  It took him quite awhile to actually take the plunge and when he did – he did not jump properly.  He tucked his feet under him and jumped in a seated position which garnered lots of laughs from the locals.  The real problem was he could have been seriously injured as he did not have the proper form, but in the end he was alright.

Third Jumper:  Mid-20 year old 

Our third jumper was much more experienced, had perfect form, and received lots of applause.  He truly is head first into the ground and somehow he walks away uninjured.

Fourth Jumper:  Mid-30 year old

Now the fourth jumper went to the 2nd tallest platform and managed to do a little show boating prior to his jump.  He waived his arms in the air as he praised his gods and chanted along with the singers just before he plunged to the ground.

Final Jumper:  The Champion

There is a Naghol champion and he belongs to the Bunlop Kastom village.  We had the extreme pleasure of seeing him jump and he did not disappoint.  He casually walks out to the edge of the platform as he addresses the crowd and praises his gods.  He chants and sings and manages to balance on the edge of the platform for well over 2 minutes.

Then with expert precision, he dives straight off the platform (horizontal to the floor), before gravity takes over and he goes head first toward the ground.  He does appear to be a little phased once he is helped up and walks away. But, in the end he was fine and the spectators were enraptured by his jump.  Elleen, the spokesperson was saying how the villagers would be talking about this dive for a very long time.  It is understandable why he is the champion of the Pentecost land diving (Naghol).

Matt Climbs the Tower

After the ceremony, they allowed the male tourists to climb the tower.  I was really hoping to be able to do so as well but that was not happening. Matt said that the branches were a bit rickety and wobbled a bit, but he was able to climb to the top for the view.

Matt’s view from the top of the tower looking out and down.

Meeting the Bunlop chief and performers.

We caught up with the ladies.  I wish they did not have a frown on their faces as they have lovely smiles, but alas that is not their way.  They were absolutely curious to see the photos afterwards and giggled as I showed them (bottom left photo).

Matt and Rena enjoying the ceremony.  Elleen, in the red and white dress behind Rena, looking over all of the guests and ensuring their safety and enjoyment.

It was an absolutely memorable experience!  We hope that you enjoyed this blog, learned  little something along the way, and are as impressed with these brave young men from the Bunlop Kastom village as we were.  

Don’t miss Part I of our Naghol / Land Diving series.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred toward the end of June.