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Passage: Easter to Mangareva

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As sad as we were to leave Easter Island early, we were super excited to get to French Polynesia.  This passage from Easter Island to Mangareva, Gambiers is about 1500nm and should take us 12-14 days.

Trip Details:

  • Departed Easter Island on Sunday, 31 March at 10:30am
  • Arrived Mangareva, Gambiers on 11 April at 0900
  • Miles Traveled 1,482
  • Max speed 11.7
  • Average speed 5.6
  • Sailed most of the way, had a few motor sailing days

I know you are already caught up with details of this passage as Matt posted “Real-Time blogs” between 31 March and 11 April.  But here are a few more highlights:

The first 3-4 days were crap!  We got stuck in a whirl pool of confused seas and raging winds.  It was an unbelievable set of days bashing in and day out.  It was uncomfortable and nerve racking hearing our boat smash into these waves and get tossed side to side.  According to our weather forecasts, there was a HUGE southerly storm causing the problems.  We were able to stay away from that particular large stormy beast, but it did cause smaller squalls and poor weather conditions for us.

Storm on passage to Gambiers

Storm on passage to Gambiers

At one point, a smaller storm formed off of our port side, screwed up Otto (our auto pilot), and made the boat do all sorts of crazy stuff.  It took us about 2 hours to get the boat “right” and back on course.  And per usual, this was around 2am.

Storms all around us

Storms all around us

The one that got away

On our 6th night, just before sunset and as Matt was taking a nap, we heard ZING!  We had been trolling for the past 800nm and had no nibbles or bites, nada!  I woke Matt as the reel let out more than ¾ of the line.  It kept on going and going and going.  Damn, a big fish.  It took Matt 1.5 hours to reel this guy in to the boat and he fought him the entire time.  We finally got a look at the fish under water and it was a 400lb Marlin.  Crap.  One: how do we get this guy on board? Two: we don’t have enough space in our freezer for this big of a fish.  We didn’t want to gaf him as that would severely injure or kill him but we did want our lure back!

Matt trying to reel in a 400lb Marlin

Matt trying to reel in a 400lb Marlin

Sucker swam under the boat, got the line caught on either our sail drive or prop and broke the line.  Well, I guess that solves our two problems.  I was riddled with guilt that the poor fish was stuck with our lure in his mouth.  Matt assured me it would rust out within a week.  We did not even get a decent photo of him.

Marlin that got away

Marlin that got away

Another beautiful sunset to end our day

Land a Ho:

For some reason, this passage seemed to drag for me.  Maybe because it was back to back with the other 11-day passage or maybe because of the foul weather, but I struggled.  It was a great relief to finally see the Gambiers on the radar, just before dawn.

Arriving Gambiers

Arriving Gambiers

The feeling of relief was quickly replaced with the feeling of dread as we entered the channel.  It was blowing 35 knots, with choppy seas, and a 2kt current.  We buried the bows at least 2’ in the water multiple times.  Yikes!  Reefs all around us made this a bit treacherous.  However, we arrived with out any issues to an anchorage with white caps.

An anchorage is an anchorage and we were happy to drop 90 meters of chain in 18 meters of water!  Done!  Whoop Whoop!

Mother Nature Surprises Us

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When you live on a boat, you have to have a high level of respect for Mother Nature.  She can deliver some of the most breathtaking and inspiring views while at the same time sending dangerous and frightening weather.  The anchorage presented us with many gorgeous sunsets

Sunsets at Easter Island

Sunsets at Easter Island

After the 2nd night, we woke up to really rolly and uncomfortable conditions.  We were still at anchor, but it was awful.  The supply ship had already left, but the National Geographic ship was loading passengers (or at least trying).  The port captain hailed each of the 10 sailboats on the VHF.  They told us that the port would be closed for several days and that we should evacuate the anchorage.  What?  Crap!

Changing Anchorages to VinaPu

We all slowly made our way around the island to a more protected anchorage.  The only problem with the new anchorage is that there is no easy way to get to shore.  Shoot, there goes our island tour.

Not a particularly pretty anchorage either.  This is where the fuel container ship comes to provide fuel to the island.  So, we looked at huge fuel tanks on shore.  We stayed here overnight and decided we needed to go ashore the next day.  Lots to do: provision, get gasoline, and clear out of the country as our visas were expiring.  We found a semi protected area near a platform with a ladder.  We tossed out a stern anchor and crawled our way to shore.  Managing to stay mostly dry.

Luckily, we were able to get everything done that we needed.  But, because the port was closed and access to shore was challenging, we decided to leave a day early.  Much to my disappointment.  We did not get to see the largest MOAI or the largest grouping of MOAI (15).  But what we did see, we loved.  This is a spectacular island!

Moai on Easter Island

Explorers of Easter Island

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After 11 days at sea, we were thrilled to pull into the busy bay of Hanga Roa. We thankfully arrived at this anchorage in the middle of the day.  Normally a quiet location, but when we arrived, there was a container ship making its monthly delivery of supplies and the National Geographic Cruise Ship.  These two vessels were anchored next to 10 other sailboats.  Who knew Easter Island would be so busy?  We were in good company.  We dropped the hook in 20 meters of water (yep, super deep), let out all of our new stainless-steel chain and attached the bridle at 90 meters.

This is a pretty exposed anchorage.  On top of that, the entrance to shore is through the breakwater which has large, threatening, crashing waves.  It is very intimidating!  We watched a few pangas make the run before we decided to brave it ourselves.  Counting, 1, 2, 3, zip in.

Hangoa Roa at Easter Island

Hangoa Roa at Easter Island

Once inside the breakwater, you have to navigate around dangling lines, pangas, and other small watercraft.  All boats use painters (lines at the bow of the boat) and stern ties.  It took us awhile to figure out how to secure Sweetie.  Our visas expire soon so we don’t have much time to play.  We arrived in Chile on 1 January and spent the better part of 2 months sailing down the coast to Valdivia.  We knew it would take us a few weeks to get Easter Island (which is also Chilean) so we had hustle.  This only left with 4.5 days to explore this fascinating island.

Hanga Roa Dingy Access

Hanga Roa Dingy Access

MOAI MONUMENTS

Once ashore you are immediately greeted by several MOAI!  I think I took photos of every single one I passed.  I was enthralled and in awe!  We checked in with the Armada, found the petrol station, got a new SIM card, and began exploring.

Entering Hanga Roa

Entering Hanga Roa

Everything seems so much more vibrant on Easter island.  The greens are greener and the blues are bluer.  It takes your breath away just walking among these statues carved out of volcanic rock.

Carved Volcanic Rock Statues

Carved Volcanic Rock Statues

This beautiful MOAI was carved on both sides (front and back) in an intricate design that surprises you as walk around him.

MOAI with designs on front and back

MOAI with designs on front and back

Beyond the Coast Adventures

We walked around the coast, exploring on our own.  We scheduled a tour for Saturday, but it didn’t cover the entire island.  So, we decided to check out the sights not listed as part of our tour.  The only problem is that we don’t have anyone to explain the stories of the MOAI and many don’t have signs.  But they were all beautiful to behold.  A lot of the MOAI are near large bodies of water and along the coast.

Enjoying an inspiring moment

Enjoying an inspiring moment

We came across a circle of carved statues in the middle of a grassy park.  We do not know the name or historical value of this beautiful little reflecting area, but we admired it none the less.

Prayer Area

Prayer Area

As we continued down the coast, we found the “old cemetery.”  The most amazing thing about this cemetery is that they actually grow plants, grass and flowers on top of the graves. It looked like a giant garden.  They have a “newer” cemetery on the other side of the island.

Cemetery with live gardens

Cemetery with live gardens

We found a large grouping of MOAI at Tahai.  They had several MOAI with hats and a few without.  They also had 6-MOAI together depicting their respective leaders.

Tahai Moai

Tahai Moai

Just off the main road is their local church which rang its bells on the hour.  We also enjoyed browsing the mercardo artesenal, and had lunch at a local eatery overlooking Tahai.