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The Konis's: Troy, Kimberly, Cole, Cameron

The Konis’s Hit the Society Islands: Part I

My sister and her family came for a visit to the Society Islands.  Kimberly, Troy, Cameron and Cole {the Konis family} arrived in Tahiti at dawn.  I greeted them with fresh floral leis and fresh baked rosemary bread.  After a quick stop at the boat, we rushed them to the fresh market to pick up fruit and veggies.  The market is located in the center of Papeete so they got a quick glimpse of downtown and a feel for the local life as a Polynesian.

The Konis's: Troy, Kimberly, Cole, Cameron

The Konis’s: Troy, Kimberly, Cole, Cameron

We returned to the boat and began the fun process of unpacking and uncovering new goodies for the boat.  Our pack mules delivered a 50lb bag of stuff just for us, sweet! 

And the Adventure Begins

Several hours later, we decided it was time to head back into town.  We enjoyed a tasty lunch at the Bora Bora Yacht Club (which is really just a restaurant), did some shopping, and discovered pearl picking.  We walked to the market, found a cool post office box and noted the empty streets.  It was Sunday after all and covid still is in play.  Not the best introduction to the Society Islands, but it still was fun.  We did stumble upon a tiny park called Parc Bougainville with a quaint coy pond and shaded pathways and greenery.

Welcome to Tahiti

Welcome to Tahiti

For dinner we took them to B3 Brasserie where we enjoyed half price beer and pizza for dinner.  A few other cruisers showed up and “gave us our space” because we had guests visiting from the states.

Our first day was a big day.  We retired “early” to be ready for tomorrow.

Our goal during this trip was to visit 7 islands within the Society Island Archipelago.  Starting with Tahiti, Mo’orea, Huahine Nui, Huahine Iti, Raiatea, Taha’a and finally Bora Bora.

Day 2: Mo’orea

The next morning, we made a healthy breakfast to ready our new sailors for their first passage across the Pacific.  It was less than a 20nm trip from Tahiti to Mo’orea, but still a “passage.”  Our crew did wonderfully as we sailed with the jib across the pond.  We anchored in Oponohu Bay in 2.5 meters of turquoise, sandy water. 

Mo'orea

Mo’orea

After lunch, we headed the short distance to sting ray city by dinghy.  It is a fun dinghy ride between coral heads and a reef and past the Mo’orea Intercontinental Hotel (which was closed).  We grabbed a mooring and jumped in.  Dozens of black tip sharks and sting rays hang out here and they greeted the Konis family nobly.  These majestic creatures are just as curious of us as we are of them.  They swim close enough to look them in the eye and touch their wings.

Sting Ray City off Mo'orea

Sting Ray City off Mo’orea

Then you have the dozens of black tip sharks that are looking for scraps of anything.  They are all pretty fat and healthy looking so you know they are not going hungry.  They don’t swim too close, which is all right with me.

Sting Ray City off Mo'orea

Sting Ray City off Mo’orea

A fun tour guide telling us that the sharks only like to eat men (not women or children).

Day 3: Mo’orea

A quick zip to shore to explore the town of Vaihere.  We were in search of an eatery to have lunch.  Unfortunately, the Oponohu Bay does not have much activity, hikes, or places to see.  We found several places for good photo ops though.

Konis's in Mo'orea

Konis’s in Mo’orea

However, we did find a super cute pension (small, local hotel) willing to serve us lunch at Fare Maheata.  It was situated right on the beach overlooking the beautiful bay and served a tasty lunch.

Lunch at Mo'orea

Lunch at Mo’orea

We headed back to the boat, after everyone was well fed and had a little exercise.  Preparations were made for the Konis’s first night passage.  Our next island is 85nm away.

Night Passage: Mo’orea to Huahine

The longest passage between the Society Islands is from Mo’orea to Huahine (if you are going from island to island in sequential order).

We left late afternoon so the Konis clan could start the trip in the day light.  It would be a downwind sail with light winds and fairly calm seas.  However, that doesn’t mean “smooth” sailing for newbies.  The motion of the boat was odd because the waves were coming from the quarter panel.  Slightly pushing us forward, but also rocking us side to side.  Everyone slept outside or in the salon as sleeping is more challenging down below in the cabins.  Lucky for us, everyone slept through the night – despite claims of wanting to pull a night shift 😉 

Night Passage Mo'orea to Huahine

Night Passage Mo’orea to Huahine

We arrived in Huahine at dawn and found a lovely mooring in the flats between the two passes.  Each of the Society Islands offer different experiences from landscape, to activities.

Day 4: Huahine 

Everyone was tired upon arrival.  Even though they slept through the night it was a restless sleep being under passage.  So, we took it easy in the morning and did not head into town until lunch.  We walked around town, checked out a few shops and artisan markets and headed to our favorite eatery in French Polynesia called Izzy’s Burgers.  For dessert we stopped by the Distillerie Huahine Passion for rum tasting. Chocolate rhum – yum!

Huahine Izzy's and Distillery

Huahine Izzy’s and Distillery

The distillery serves dozens of flavors ranging from 80 proof to liqueurs to basic rums.  We started out with 3 shots splitting 2 people per shot and ended with one shot and all 6 of us tasting the one.  With 4-25cl (1/4 of liter) bottles in our bag we headed back to the boat.

Day 5: Huahine Nui

We had reserved 6 bikes for a leisure ride around the island.  However, the local kids did not return them so we had to hoof it on foot.  Our goal was to walk to the Fare Pote’e museum and archaeological sites with Marae.  It is a 4.2 mile walk one way so we were in for a long walk.  About half way to our destination we passed by a beautiful lagoon called Lac Maeva.

Huahine 8.2 mile walk

Huahine 8.2 mile walk

We arrived to the museum on a beautiful, sunny morning.  The calm waters and bright blue skies showcasing the marae and museum nicely.  Matt and I did not go inside the museum (as we’ve seen it and posted about it several times).

Huahine Museum

Huahine Museum

After the Konis family filled their brains with local history, we hiked up to the Marae Mata’ire’a Rahi which is another archaeological site marked by a large banyan tree.  It is an easy trail up the Chemin de Randonnee.  We tried to find the other marae but the trail was hidden in the dense bushes.

Hike to Marae in Huahine

Hike to Marae in Huahine

We returned to town clocking in at 8.2 miles.  Not a bad walk.  Lucky for us, we were able to secure 6 bikes for the next day.  We enjoyed some cocktails at the Huahine Yacht Club and returned to the boat for a tasty pad thai dinner.

Day 6: Huahine Nui

Attempt #2 to ride bikes around Huahine.  We were not technically planning on riding the bikes all the way around the island because there is a rather large hill on the opposite side.  It would make it challenging to go up it and treacherous to go down it after the rain.  So, our plan was just to bike to the Sacred Blue-Eyed Eels which was about 16 miles round trip.

We should have taken a photo of our bikes, but we forgot.  The Konis family was amused in the quality of the bikes as most did not have breaks, some had faulty steering, all had crappy seats and were rusted.  But these were fabulous compared to the bikes we rented in Hao.

We pushed the bikes to their limits and rode hard to Anguilles Sacrees de Faie.  I took the boys down to the water’s edge to hand feed the eels.  The eels love sardines which are horribly smelly!

Sacred Blue Eyed Eels

Sacred Blue Eyed Eels

A local tour guide and his group showed up a few minutes later.  The guide showed us how to exercise the eels by placing sardines on the little ledge. Pretty wild to watch.

Exercising the Eels

Exercising the Eels

Quick Stop at a Pearl Farm in the Middle of the Lagoon

On the way back to town, we stopped to take a tour of a pearl farm.  They pick you up in a small panga and drive you 5 minutes to the pearl farm located in the lagoon.

Huahine Pearl Farm Tour

Huahine Pearl Farm Tour

They sold pottery, shells, pearls and jewelry.  It was rather pricey, especially compared to Gambier prices.  But I guess they have the market here.  Every Society Island sells pearls, but none are more beautiful or cost effective as those found in the Gambiers.

Huahine Pearl Farm Tour

Huahine Pearl Farm Tour

Cole and Cameron enjoying a breezy spot on the deck of the pearl farm.

Cole and Cameron

Cole and Cameron

Relaxing after a long bike ride

After our brief tour we headed back into town.  We returned our bikes and enjoyed some drinks at the Huahine Yacht Club.  Our friends on Flip Flops were there so we invited them over for sun downers on Sugar Shack.  Troy booked flights from Bora Bora to Tahiti at the local Air Tahiti office so they are all set.  We had a gorgeous sunset during our sun downer party.

More Fun photos on Sugar Shack with the Konis’s in the Society Islands.

The Konis Family on Sugar Shack

The Konis Family on Sugar Shack

Day 7: Huahine Iti

We had not intended on spending this much time in Huahine, but we had to show the Konis family Huahine Iti before they left.  We motored the 5-miles to Hana Iti beach located on the western side of Huahine Iti in the Baie Teapaa. Huahine Nui (large) and Huahine Iti (small) are both located in the same lagoon and are connected by a bridge on land.

We had a superb beach day, hanging out in the water, SUP’ing, playing volleyball and bacchi ball.

Huahine Iti Beach Day

Huahine Iti Beach Day

Back at the boat, Matt taught the boys how to dive between our davits into the water.  Kimberly was down below during this time – thank goodness.

Tune in to the next blog, “The Society Islands Welcome the Konis’s: Part II” as we continue our adventures with Cameron, Cole, Kimberly and Troy Konis.

This post was written in July/August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

Jumping for Joy

Sacred Sites, Eels and Memories

Taking the Lemberger’s to see sacred sites, visit sacred eels and made sacred memories. We took John, Missy and Carl on 4 passages to get from Tahiti to Bora Bora.  We sailed from Tahiti to Mo’orea to Huahine to Raiatea/Taha’a and then to Bora Bora.  Three of the four passages are about 20-25nm or 5 hours.  However, Mo’orea to Huahine is an overnight passage at about 90nm or 16 hours.

Overnight passages can be challenging for anyone.  You don’t have a point of reference, like the horizon.  You are rocking and rolling in all sorts of directions and you are tired.  Our guests held up well and slept through most of the passage, which was good news.  We only had a sliver of a moon and a few phosphorescence playing with us.  Nothing but smiles the next morning.

Lemberger's Onboard Sugar Shac

Lemberger’s Onboard Sugar Shac

Early in the morning, we were surprised to see 3 whales.  A mamma, baby and companion.  Unfortunately, we were not able to get our cameras out fast enough to share with you.  But, take my word for it – it was amaze balls! As a consolation, here are a few photos of the pretty sunrise.

Sunrise on the approach to Huahine

Sunrise on the approach to Huahine

Our first stop was off Point Teapaa near Motu Vaiorea.  We anchored fairly close to the beach in 3.5 meters of water.  The boys enjoyed a little SUP time.  As you can see from the photos, we had this little motu to ourselves for a short while.

Huahine Private Motu Adventures

Huahine Private Motu Adventures

John and Carl took the SUPs to the beach while Matt drove the ladies in Sweetie.  We had the beach to ourselves and enjoyed an awesome lazy afternoon.

Beach off Motu

Beach off Motu

FARE, HUAHINE

After jollying around at the beach, we headed to Fare, the main village on Huahine.  We hopped in a rental car and made our way to Pote’e Museum which is one of the largest and most sacred Mare’s collections on the island.

Pote'e Museum

Pote’e Museum

Matt and I goofed around the grounds while waiting for them.

Pote'e Museum

Pote’e Museum

Just past the museum is a small hiking trail to another mare.  The trail is called Chemin de Randonnee and was a really nice stroll through the forest and trees.

Hiking Trail to Marae

Hiking Trail to Marae

There were some enormous trees and alluring vista views at the top.

Super cool tall trees

Super cool tall trees

Anguilles Sacres de Faie

Missy and Carl are extremely brave and have an uncanny way with all animals.  We stood on the wall overlooking the river when we visited the eels last time.  This time, we got in the water and got up close and personal.

Sacred Eels

Sacred Eels

We worked up an appetite after our explorations and headed to Izzy’s Burgers and More.

Izzy's Burgers and More

Izzy’s Burgers and More

RAIATEA AND TAHA’A

It was a short 23 nm trip to Raiatea.  Unfortunately, we had no wind and ended up motoring the entire way.  We took John, Missy, and Carl on a big hike to the top of Tapioi.  It was a particularly hot day and there were not many places to hide from the sun.  But, the reward at the top of the mountain was worth it.  The top right photo shows our friends at the bottom and they hiked to the top of the radio tower.  5 miles and 11,323 steps.

Hike To Top of Taipi

Hike To Top of Tapioi

It is easy to take lovely photos with vistas like these.

Hike to Tapioi

Hike to Tapioi

We had a little fun with some jumping shots.

Jumping for Joy

Jumping for Joy

And can’t forget Matt’s “screaming tree” pose.

Top of Tapioi

Top of Tapioi

Piazza's and Mitchell's

A Reward After a Horrible Sail

Is the reward worth a bad passage?  The sail from Huahine to Mo’orea wasn’t going to be great, but we didn’t think it would be as bad as it was.  The forecast had no rain and decent winds with the hope of a little sailing.  However, we had howling winds on the nose (20-25 kts with 30+ gusts), 2.7 kts of current pushing us backwards and 2.5-meter waves that were really confused.  We left at 1530 and arrived around 1330 the next day.

We were relieved to stop the rocking, pounding, and disastrous motion.  Nobody got sick, but nobody was feeling well and poor Rocco and Linda slept for most of the passage.  The reward was arriving to Mo’orea!  Smiles all around at anchor.

Smiling at the end of the passage

Smiling at the end of the passage

We dropped the hook at Opunohu Bay in a small, sandy area that is just big enough for 6-8 boats.   We saw this spot from the top of Magic Mountain and immediately wanted to stop here.  (See blog “Safari Mario Tour of Moorea – 9/10”).

INSERT PHOTO OF MO’OREA SS W/ 5 BOATS

A few miles away is a place called “Sting Ray City” where you can swim with black tip sharks and sting rays.  We hopped in Sweetie, hugged the black and white markers all the way to this special spot.  Wow, what an amazing experience.  These gentle giants glide through the water like a bird sailing across the sky.  The fish are fed by humans and have no fear.

Stingray City Snorkel

Stingray City Snorkel

MO’OREA INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL:

The Mo’orea Intercontinental Hotel was behind us so we took the liberty to go ashore, internet, and have a few beverages.

Playing at Intercontinental Hotel Mo'orea

Playing at Intercontinental Hotel Mo’orea

Dinghy ride back to boat from hotel – we are a little punch drunk happy having internetted a bit.

Dinghy ride on Sweetie

Dinghy ride on Sweetie

We had such a great experience that we went back the next morning when there were fewer tourists.  A chance to be one with these gorgeous fish.

Stingray City Snorkel

Stingray City Snorkel

PASSAGE TO TAHITI

We could not linger in Mo’orea because Rocco and Linda had a flight to catch.  We had a stellar sail from Mo’orea to Tahiti with almost full sails, no current and less than 1-meter waves.  It was the perfect way to spend the last day on the boat.

The Marina Taina anchorage was pretty crowded, but our same spot across from the Intercontinental Hotel was available.  We dropped the hook directly across from their pool in 2 meters of turquoise water.

TAHITI INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL

Rocco and Linda got a comfort package at the hotel.  We had a blast drinking at the negative edge pool which looked out to Sugar Shack.

Intercontinental Hotel Tahiti

Intercontinental Hotel Tahiti

Fun was had by all.

Pool Fun

Pool Fun

I love these people; they are so fun and easy to hang out with!

More Pool Fun

More Pool Fun

We went back to the room to shower before dinner.  These are our peeps: Rocco and Linda

Dinner at the hotel

Dinner at the hotel

It was a sad moment to say “goodbye.”  We had such a fabulous time showing Rocco and Linda around Bora Bora, Taha’a, Huahine, Mo’orea, and Tahiti.  You too will always have a special place in our hearts!  Thank you for magnificent time!