Tag Archives: huahine

Shell Museum in Huahine

Huahine Shell Museum

Frank, the owner of Expo Coquillages (Shell Expo) or the Shell museum. He has spent 38 years collecting precious sea shells from the beach.  He has built an amazingly, organized, educational, shell museum next to his house for Huahine visitors. 

Frank has spent the last 38 years collecting and expanding on his private shell collection.  80-90% of the shells in his museum come from the beaches of Huahine and Rangiroa. He does not collect them from the sea as he does not want to kill the inhabitants for their shells.  His museum is small, but extremely well organized.  Each group of shells is in a numbered box with an index that gives their name.  In many instances. He has photos of the shell with its inhabitant.

Shell Museum Tour

Frank starts off by talking about conch shells which are both beautiful and deadly.  A “real” conch shell has an opening from the top to the bottom of the shell.  That’s how you can differentiate a conch from another similar shell.  99% of all conch shells open to the right.  Meaning if you hold a conch with the pointy part down, the opening will be to the right (top photo).  Only one type of conch shell opens to the left and they are rare (bottom photo). One in a million will open in the opposite direction for both of these types of shells.

Conch shells opening to the right

Conch shells opening to the right

Deadly Conchs

Many of these conch shells are poisonous and or deadly when they are alive.  They cause 2-3 deaths per year (similar to a shark).  But honestly who wants to admit they were killed by a small sea shell compared to a shark?  Which is why you don’t hear much about these types of deaths.

The interesting thing is that these conch shells are afraid and will retreat when threatened.  They don’t try to kill or injure humans.  It is the curiosity and greed of humans that get’s them stung.  Humans see the shells in the sea, pick them up, put them in their pocket and whamo – they get stung.  The shells cause paralysis within 2 hours and then death.  They are 32x more deadly than the cobra and there is no vaccine.

The Conch Anatomy

The conch has a snout that protrudes from the shell that does the “investigating”.  When he is in danger, he jets out his stinger under the snout.  It is so fast that you can’t see it with the naked eye.  They can sting multiple times, like a bee.  When trying to capture prey, the shell will extend its snout, then sting a fish and open its mouth to bring it to him.  Sometimes it will open its mouth so wide that it collects multiple fish.  When that happens, it stings the fish while inside his mouth (see lower right image).

Deadly Conch

Deadly Conch

These look like conch shells, but they are not.  The opening does not extend from the top to the bottom.

Shells that look like conch shells, but are not.

Shells that look like conch shells, but are not.

The conch shell grows with its inhabitant.  It is not like a hermit crab where they change shells.  These little guys are nocturnal and hide during the day.  By the time they reach the beach they are dead and can be collected and admired.

Shells, Shells, and More Shells

Frank has a gorgeous collection of over 500 different types of shells. Unfortunately, most of his presentation was in French so I had to rely on Floris to translate bits and pieces for me.  I am sure I missed a lot of the information, but I was enthralled with the beauty of the shells none the less.

And more beautiful shells

I loved seeing many of my favorite shells at this shell museum.  He had several varieties of sand dollars (I have 4 of the 5 shown in the middle picture.  I’d love to get the one in the lower left corner but have never seen one like this before!  I have several of the cone shells including one polished as pretty as the all pearl ones (top right photo).  We also have several sea urchins (lower left) and one of the super dainty shells on the lower right.

One of my favorite shells is actually part of a defense mechanism for a large shell!  I had collected many of the shells on the bottom photo with a cool swirl.  I found out from the shell museum tour that this is used to close the critter inside a large shell (see top photo).

These are all my favorite shells from the shell museum.  Check out the top left corner – isn’t it beautiful with its pearl stripes?

This display had the evolution of the queen conch shell (furthest away on right).  This shell starts small (lower left corner) and evolves over time into a queen conch with large fingers.  I am a proud owner of one of these beauties as well.

Evolution of the queen conch

Evolution of the queen conch

In another display, Frank shows long, pointy shells that he opened up so you can see the complexity of the framework of the shell.

This cool photo shows what the shell and inhabitant look like while alive (top) then you can see the dead shell left behind (red shells toward bottom).

One of his beautiful displays

Pearls

Frank also sold pearl jewelry, carved shells, and more.  He personally creates and fabricates all of the jewelry.  Some of his products are made by other locals of Huahine as well.

This was an interesting summary of the quality of pearls, their color, shape, and luster.  He also has the number of pearls exported.  Japan and Hong Kong take 87% of the pearls from French Polynesia.

What an interesting day at the shell museum.

Events from this blog occurred on 15 October 2020.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

Huahine Yacht Club View

Huahine Hide Out

The first weather window to Huahine opened up and we took it. Following this small window was another “blow.”  We needed to get to our Huahine Hide Out. We need to go “east” but the prevailing winds are coming from the east so it makes a sail trip difficult.  Not only do you have to tack a bunch of times, but you also head into the wind and the waves.  Well, the wind was still coming easterly but at least they had calmed down (from 25-30kts to 15-18kts).  So off we went.

We had a lovely sail with only 2 tacks which is remarkable considering we were going into the wind.  It took us a little longer and sailed a little further than planned, but we made it.  Pretty awesome day.

Passage

  • Raiatea to Huahine
  • Miles to Destination:  27nm
  • Total Miles Sailed: 40.8nm
  • Max Speed: 9.8kt
  • Avg. Speed: 5.7
  • Moving Time 7 hours 11 minutes

We took advantage of our Huahine hide out by visiting with friends, doing a few boat projects, and getting caught up on paperwork (blogs, banking, etc…)  Matt had to find and fix a few “leaks” around the hatches, we replaced a ceiling panel in the office, and we put together lists of things that need to be done when we get to Tahiti.

In between all the “chores” we had some fun too.  We hit “Izzy’s Burgers and More” several times because the food is amazing, the service is great and we love to patronize Isabel!  This is (left, back, front) Mike “Easy” Steve and Lili “Liward” Matt, Floris and Ivar “Luci Para 2” me, and Helen “Wow”

Izzys Burgers & More Huahine

Izzys Burgers & More Huahine

A few great sunsets at the Huahine Yacht Club during happy hour with 500xpf ($5) cocktails and 450xpf ($4.50) beers.

Huahine Yacht Club View

Huahine Yacht Club View

Huahine Anchorage

Matt and I usually anchor in the “flats” which is a shallow area in between the two passes.  It is less crowded and in beautiful shallow water (top photo).  Most monohulls anchor or take a mooring closer to the village of Fare (middle photo).  Our friend on Luci Para 2 (Floris and Ivar) use their kayak instead of a dinghy to protect the environment.

Not much of a Huahine Hide Out as we are out and about, but the anchorage is safe and protected.  Always a good thing.

My friends on Luci Para 2 (Floris and Ivar) take me to the shell museum.  Check out the next blog for details on our shell adventure.

We had a small weather window to get to Tahiti but we decided to wait until the next one. Why?  Because some friends of ours were playing a gig that we wanted to attend. So, stay tuned for the blog when we show you how a Polynesian concert is done!

Walk About and Small Hike

We explored with a 5-mile walk around a few bays and went half way up the mountain.  First we crossed over this lovely little bridge surrounded by gorgeous trees, plants, and flowers.

We walked along the shore and came across this sweet path with short, leaning palm trees.  I loved how uniform they looked as they reached out toward the water and sun.

Beautiful views of the Marina Apooiti Bay and hillside.

Huahine Views

Huahine Views

Back to the boat for some relaxation.

Because we are trying to fill our blog with posts through the year, some of these posts may be a bit shorter.  I am concerned we won’t have internet in the Gambiers so I am trying to populate and schedule out blogs during our stay there.  So we don’t go “dark”.

Events in this blog took place in early October.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

A Twirl Through the Societies, Part I

Our very good friend, Donald came to visit us in the Societies (The Society Archipelago).  Matt and I crewed on Donald’s boat, a Catalina 47, for years and years when we lived in Texas.  He was kind enough to bring us a bevy of supplies including an entire spool of line weighing in at 34kbs!  Poor thing.  See below for how we use this line (which is real world speak is “rope”).

We met Donald in Raiatea which has a super easy, convenient airport.  Matt and I were able to take the dinghy straight up to the platform where passengers disembarked.   After a 24-hour travel day he was a little exhausted, but he rallied well!

We left the Raiatea Carenage anchorage and headed to one of our favorite spots: Ilot Moute which is owned by the La Pirog Resort.  Perfect place to welcome Donald to the Societies.  Perfectly clear turquoise waters, a tiny motu, and only a few boats. 

Main Halyard Replacement

Yachties seem to have different names for a lot of things on a boat.  For example, the kitchen is called the galley and the bathroom is called the head.  Rope actually has multiple names.  It can be a line, halyard, lazy jack, or a sheet depending on its function.

Our main halyard lifts our main sail from the sail bag to the top of the mast.  It is a vital line and has to be very strong.  We priced the cost of replacing it in Tahiti and fell off our chair.  We needed about 75 meters and the cost was going to be between $900-$2500.  However, we could buy double the length for a fraction of the cost from the U.S.  So, we bought 165 meters for $1600 and had to ask Donald to bring it to us. Bless his heart.

New main halyard

New main halyard

The old line rubbed against our lazy jacks holding our sail bag.  Matt had tried to sew it up but it was in need of being replaced.  There is still a lot of really good, usable line left so we hope to repurpose some of it in the future.

Old main halyard

Old main halyard

Passage to Huahine

We had a great plan for Donald’s visit.  We were trying to maximize our anchorages during his 9 day stay in the Societies.  However, on day 2 we looked at the weather and it all had to change.  We made a quick decision to leave Raiatea/Taha’a area to head toward Huahine.

This was to be the best day for this passage.  However, it did not mean it was a good day. The wind was right on our nose causing us to tack back and forth and back and forth.  The good news is that it was a great sail day with full sails up.  Several rain clouds provided some wind shifts which played with our course as well.  The photo below shows the direct route (pink line). However, our actual route is the the yellow line with all the little tacks back and forth.

Passage Raiata to Huahine

Passage Raiata to Huahine

Although it was a lot of tacking to get to our destination, we still had a lovely time!

Passage Raiata to Huahine

Passage Raiata to Huahine

We had an absolutely beautiful sunset just in time for dinner

Everyone was up early to run some errands in Fare the main town on Huahine.  We needed to replace our propane tank (for cooking), dump trash and recycling, book a return ticket for Donald, and swing by the market.  Everyone was back on the boat by 0830 and preparing to head to Avea baie.

Avea Baie, Huahine

This is a new anchorage for Sugar Shack.  We have been to Huahine over a half dozen times and have never made it this far south.  Avea Baie is located on the southern tip of Huahine iti.  It is host to a beautiful little resort called La Mahana Resort.

La Mahana Resort

La Mahana Resort

We walked from the resort around the southern end of Huahine Iti and found a cool marae overlooking the baie and Motu Araara.

This is a photo of the little motu called Araara.

Marae Anini

The Societies (as well as the other archipelagos) have many maraes.  The ancient marae Anini is where the deities, Oro (the main god of war) and Hiro (the deceitful god) were worshiped.  It is rumored that at least 14 human sacrifices were made at this marae.

We entered the sacred grounds down a sandy road leading toward the beach.

Marae Anini

Marae Anini

The Anini marae has several ahu (smaller alters or platforms).  These are considered beds for the gods Oro and Hiro.  The vertical stones called ofa ‘I turui, allowed the priests and chiefs to lean back to rest or they may be memorials for the deceased chiefs.

Marae Anini

Marae Anini

This is a shot of the marae from the lagoon.

Marae Anini

Marae Anini

We enjoyed a lovely dinner at the La Mahana resort which offered tasty food, impeccable service, and beautiful food presentation.  Thank you, Donald, for a wonderful meal!  As you can see, the dining room is on the beach under a covered thatched roof overlooking the bay.

Exploring on Sweetie

We went exploring by dinghy.  First, we went around the southern tip toward the town of Parea (across from Motu Araara).  There was no decent dinghy dock so we just circled the lagoon and went on our merry way.  Next, we passed by our anchorage in Avea bay and headed to a new bay called Haapu.

They had a really nice floating dock.  So, we tied up Sweetie and went to shore. Not much in this small town.  We did find a school, le mairie (mayor), and a small magasin.  This little town had several beautiful swans made out of tires!  Yep!  Giant tires were cut up to make planters that looked like swans.  I love it.

Swans made out of tires

Swans made out of tires

Fantastic Fare

We headed back to Fare hoping to find a break from the wind.  Unfortunately, that was not the case.  But we were closer to town.

In the morning we were blessed with a beautiful display of love between a mother and baby whale.  They were playing in the channel just in front of the boat.  Mostly we saw their spouts and backs with an occasional tale.  So amazing.  Whales are all over the Societies (Huahine, Mo’orea, Bora Bora).

We turned in Donald’s self covid test and enjoyed a super tasty lunch at Izzy’s Burgers and More!

Later that afternoon, we met Helen from “Wow” and Mike from “Easy” at the Huahine Yacht club for happy hour.  Half priced beer and cocktails plus an amazing sunset!

And the sunset is just stunning – without filters or editing.  Just pure beauty in the Societies.

Check in next time as we head back to Raiatea, discover a few bays, and say goodbye to Donald.  Events from this post occurred during 26 Sept – 2 Oct 2020.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.