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A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part II

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We originally started our passage from Tikehau with the hopes of making it all the way to Gambiers.  However, if you read “A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part I” you will see that we were thwarted and had to stop in Amanu for 10 days to wait for more favorable weather.  This blog post will be the second and final part to the Tuamotus to Gambiers passage.

Continuing our Journey to Gambiers

Matt and I left the South East anchorage at Amanu around 0930 on a Monday morning.  We needed to cross the Amanu lagoon, head out the pass, and travel down the atoll which added 16nm to our 450nm passage.  As we approached the pass to exit the lagoon, we noticed we had a 2kt outgoing current.  It turned out to be no problem for us as we exited.

The weather routing gave us four routes.  All of which had us turning left out of the pass and going between Amanu and Hao as it was the shortest distance.  However, that was a huge mistake.  We should have turned right, motored the extra 8-9nm and rounded the NE side of Amanu.  It would have given us a much better wind angle and prevented the horrible washing machine effect.

As we rounded Amanu, we encountered 3-meter waves coming from every direction.  It was a mess.  The waves were trapped between the two atolls creating a really uncomfortable start to our passage.  It lasted the entire length of Hao which is 33+nm long!  Rotten way to start the trip.  Especially because I never recovered from that moment forward.  I stayed in a state of sea sickness the entire trip.  Not my worst trip, but certainly not my best.

The first day we tried to make as much easting as possible. We were pinching (heading as close to the wind as possible) which forced us to constantly trim the sails to keep them full.  Sunset on first night.

First 24 Hours

  • 134nm Miles travelled over all
  • 337nm Distance to destination
  • 7 Max Speed
  • 6 Average Speed

Beautiful sunrise on day 2

On day two, we had calmer seas.  They dropped from 3-meters to 2-meters and were primarily on our forward quarter panel.  Still a bumpy, crazy ride.  Our course for the first 1.5 days was about 140-150T with an average of 12-18kts of wind from North of East.  We had to adjust course to avoid hitting a small atoll called “Tureia” in the middle of the night.  We had lots and lots of beautiful stars as the moon did not rise until 0100.

48 Hours

  • 290nm Miles travelled over all
  • 156nm Travelled in the last 24-hour period
  • 181nm Distance to destination
  • 4 Max Speed
  • 2 Average Speed

We were waiting on a wind shift to make our actual heading to the Gambiers.  Finally, during the 2nd night it started to shift a bit after Matt dwelt with 2 big squalls.  We finally had a course of 120T with winds at about 15-18kts from NE and 1.5-meter seas.  Our cross track was at +47 and we needed to widdle that down.  Happy to be heading directly to Gambiers with decent winds and smaller seas.

Matt took this really cool photo of the moon and sky as the sun was trying to rise.  If you zoom in you can see we are making 8kts of boat speed in 16kts of wind.  Pretty impressive.

72 hours

  • 466nm Miles travelled over all
  • 176nm Travelled in the last 24-hour period
  • 6nm Distance to destination
  • 6 Max Speed
  • 6 Average Speed

We entered the Gambiers pass with a reefed main and jib.  Normally we would take our sails down, but the wind was coming from the right direction and just pulled us nicely into the pass with no problems.  All in all, it was a decent trip.  We were able to sail the entire passage without the use of the motors (yea, save money on diesel).  Had it not been for the horrible beginning I probably would have felt better the rest of the trip. But, what can you do?

Final Passage Details

  • 73 hours travelled for entire passage – anchor to anchor
  • 481nm Miles travelled over all
  • 10.6 Max Speed
  • 6.6 Average Speed

Arriving at the Gambiers pass

Arriving Gambiers

Arriving Gambiers

Did you read “A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part I“?  Find out why we stopped and had to continue our journey 10 days later. 

Events from this journey occurred around the 2nd week of December, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Double Rainbow

A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part I

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The prevailing winds in French Polynesia are typically east.  Guess where we need to go?  South East.  We had waited for a good weather window to head south and east from the Tuamotus to the Gambiers.  It is a long passage, about 765nm as the crow flies which means closer to 800-850nm for a sail boat. This journey would take us 6/7 days if all went well.

We left Toau at 1430 in the afternoon with light winds, calm seas, and blue skies.  It was a lovely start.  We quickly got into a groove as we settled into this passage.  Our first night was really nice as the moon was almost full and super bright. 

Underway

Underway

Because we left in the late afternoon our 24hour periods will be funky (so day 2 is still part of the first 24-hour sailing period).

2nd Day – 1st 24 hours

We had 3 fishing lines and a teaser out. Not sure why as we still had a ton of marlin in the freezer.  But Matt is a glutton for punishment.  We got a hit on the smallest rod and reel (30).  Of course, it spooled out and the line broke at the swivel.  Crap!  No big deal, Matt made another lure just like the first one and put the line back out (with tighter tension).

We passed Kauehi and Raraka (two small, uninhabited atolls).  We are making as much “easting” as we can before the wind shifted to the east.  Our goal is to pass most of the islands on their east side if possible.  We did manage to avoid a rather large squall.  And then we were rewarded with a double rainbow!

Double Rainbow

A perfect journey 

Trip Details: 1ST 24 Hour Period

  • Miles sailed: 139nm
  • Max Speed: 9.8kt
  • Average Speed: 5.8kt

3rd Day – 2nd 24 Hours

It is always a bit challenging to change your sleeping habits on a 6/7-day journey like this.  Matt and I take 3-hour shifts.  Which means, he is on for 3 hours, then goes to sleep, while I am on.  Rinse, repeat, rinse repeat.

We got another bite on the small rod/reel but the bugger got away.  At least he left the lure behind.

Another pretty sunset.

And the moon came out to guide us through the night.

Moonrise

Moonrise. A perfect night journey.

We pass several more atolls: Katiu, Makemo, Marutea, Nihiru, Tekokota, and Tauere.

Trip Details: 48 hours

  • Miles Traveled: 142nm
  • Overall, Miles Traveled: 281nm
  • Max Speed: 11.0kt
  • Average Speed: 5.9kt

We ended up dodging squalls all night and most of the morning.  Keeps you busy and on your toes.  We had a decision to make.  The new weather update showed the east winds coming a lot sooner and lighter than anticipated.  We could motor up and around Amanu, sail for 2.5 days and then motor the remaining 1.5 days to Gambier. Or, the other option is to head to Amanu, wait for daylight and hang out at this new to us atoll for the weather to improve.  We decided to go to Amanu.

We slowed the boat down as our instruments were showing a 2200-2400 arrival which is not good.  However, we did not slow it down enough as we arrived at 2400 with just the light from the moon. Our trip details at our arrival outside the pass.

Trip Details: 58 hours

  • Miles Traveled: 55nm
  • Overall, Miles Traveled: 336nm
  • Max Speed: 11.0kt
  • Average Speed: 5.7kt
  • This was 9.5 hours after our 48hr mark

Circling Amanu

Since we could not enter the pass at night, we circled, and circled, and circled.  The big circle is when we first arrived and took us from 0100-0500.  We slowly motored closer to shore to get a look at the narrow pass.  The guestimator showed slack tide at 0824 but when we approached at that time it was not navigable.  So, we circled some more.  The image below shows our creative journey outside the pass.

Circling Amanu waiting for sunrise

Circling Amanu waiting for sunrise.  Journey cut short.

As you enter the lagoon there is a dog leg that you have to avoid by hanging a sharp right.  Easy peazy.  The sun was shing bright showcasing the reef, the tide was not bad and the winds were light.

Entering Amanu Pass

Entering Amanu Pass

Once the tides settled down, we had a beautiful entrance into Amanu’s lagoon.  These photos are from the port side of the boat.

Amanu Pass at slack tide

Amanu Pass at slack tide

The starboard side has the church and main village of the atoll.  A large reef extends beyond the concrete wall which has to be avoided (of course).  We had 2kts of outgoing current as we entered.

Amanu Pass

Amanu Pass

We were greeted by the locals in two different fishing boats, super nice!

Locals welcoming us to Amanu

Locals welcoming us to Amanu

Sticking the Anchor

It took us 3 attempts to stick the anchor and avoid the huge coral heads.  What a pain in the a$$!  We have to float our chain, so it is dropping the anchor, setting it, pulling up the chain (70 meters), placing 7 floats (about every 10 meters), setting it again and swimming on it.  The first time we were too close to two large bommies.  The second time didn’t stick well.  Raise the chain, remove the floats and try again. Third time is a charm.  Ugh, but we are secure and ready for a nap.

We dropped our anchor in 15 meters of water surrounded by bommies (thus the floats).  It is a “c” shape spot with some protection from the wind and fetch.  You can see from the photo that we are not far from the pass or village. (Pass and village top of photo).

Amanu Anchorage

Amanu Anchorage

Our anchor spot at Amanu.

Amanu Anchorage

Amanu Anchorage

Our journey was not complete but we made it to Amanu.  Be sure to check back on 25 February to see “A Journey: Tuamotus to Gambiers Part II” as we finally make it to the Gambiers.

Events from this journey occurred around the 3rd week of November, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

New Year Party

A Polynesian New Year: 2021

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We celebrate the New Year Polynesian style on Sugar Shack.  Little did we know what we were in for when we agreed to host our friends for New Year’s Eve.  Our friend’s Stephan and Manu took care of everything and I mean everything from food, drinks, décor, music, cooking, and cleaning.

Stephan and Manu came over around 1700 to drop off the food, chafing dishes, grills, coolers, drinks, folding table, and décor.  It took Matt and Stephan three trips in the dinghy to get it all on board.  We were expecting 11-12 people including one other cruiser, Eve from “Auntie” and 9 Polynesians.

The Décor:

Manu came prepared with flowers, palm fronds, and décor.  She is so sweet! She showed me how to decorate with the plants/flowers, brought batteries for all the décor and we had fun creating an oasis on the boat.  Bottom right corner is Stephan and Manu during pre-party prep.

New Year Celebration

New Year Celebration

The Food:

Two large chafing dishes were filled to the brim.  One was dedicated to rice (they love their rice) and the other had fried bananas, fried oranges, potatoes, grilled bananas, and green beans.

They rented three portable grills powered by a type of propane and 12 dishes of food.  Basically, the three grills were placed in the cockpit on our table and the folding table.  When it was time for dinner, we brought out several boxes of food and Stephan grilled the meats which included shrimp, beef, chicken, pork, and fish.  Guests loaded their plates with rice and vegetables and then the cooked meats were passed around.

The bottom right photo was just a funny photo of some of the shoes…most were left in the dinghy.

Stephan also brought a cooler full of beer, rhum, lychee rum, raspberry cider, whiskey, and tequila.  Each group that came brought their own cooler full of liquor as well.  Nobody touched our liquor because they all brought their own.  We thought hosting included us doing something…but nope!  They would not impose or consume any of our food or drinks. Nor would they allow us to cook or clean.

The New Year Party

After we fed everyone the first dinner (yes, there will be a 2nd dinner before the night is over) we headed to the bow.  Manu had brought these super cool balls that lit up and changed colors.  It was the hit of the party for sure.  We hung out at the bow until midnight. After all it would not be a new year celebration without glow, right?

At midnight there were fireworks on the dock.  Totally surprised us all as nobody expected them.  It was super short, maybe 2 minutes worth, but really cool! An excellent way to ring in the New Year.

The obligatory post next to our sail bag :0

The ladies all had beautiful floral crowns.  I was very envious.  Bottom left: Manu and I, bottom middle: Manu and Stephan, bottom right: full moon as it rose above the clouds.

Party goers

Party goers

A few of our guests took turns playing Polynesian music.  Several truly magical moments happened when they all sung along with the music in true Polynesian fashion.  What a blessing it was to ring in the Near Year on such a beautiful night, with a full moon, lots of food and drinks and good friends.

The funny thing is timing.  Cruisers refer to 2100 (9:00pm) as sailor’s midnight.  Why?  Because we are usually in bed by that time.  We are also up at sunrise.  Eve, Matt, and I were wondering how we were going to manage to stay up until midnight.  Lots of laughter and good company helped us solve that problem.  Eve left around 12:30am and the party was still going.  Matt passed out around 0300 and it was still going. 

2nd Dinner

Right around 0300, the food came back out.  Which is a good thing as we had enough to feed over 40 people!  There was so much food!  Stephan cooked up a second meal for everyone.

Somewhere around 4:00am, as the sun was rising, I had to tap out.  I asked Stephan if they could move the party to the dock as I was going to fall flat on my face!  We got everyone off the boat and I did some basic cleaning (put the food away, cleaned up some of the mess that might attract bugs/ants) and crashed hard around 4:45am. 

Somehow, I remembered to turn off all the electronics, battery operated lights and décor, bring in the underwater light, closed the hatches, turned off the VHF, and shut the shades.  I was hoping to sleep at least until noon!  Ha!  Didn’t happen. I woke up 4 hours later and started the massive cleaning project.

The First Day of the New Year

Everyone offered to come back over to clean but I tackled the project as Matt recovered.  We still had the folding table, grills, chafing dishes and tons and tons of food and liquor.  Stephan and Manu came over with 4 other people and we enjoyed a New Year’s Day dinner.

Believe it or not, there were still lots of left-over food and drinks.  We luckily piled it all back into the coolers and loaded it in the dinghy to bring it back to Stephan’s house.

We found out that they took the party to the dock and then the beach.  They never went to bed!  Yep, can you believe that?  Of course, they are all in their 30’s.

An absolutely excellent way to start the New Year of 2021!

New Year’s celebration in this blog post occurred on NYE 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.