Tag Archives: gambiers

Matt just hanging out

Ile Agakauitai Ridge Walk

We hid from a storm between Taravai and Ile Agakauitai with a few of our friends on Leela (Graham and Janicki) and Pitufa (Birgit and Christian).  It was 5 days of constant rain and high winds.  Strange considering it is their summer, but from what we have heard, this has been their wettest summer in 5 decades.  It’s what keeps the mountains so lush and green!  Below is a photo after the rain and during the rain – the entire Mt. Duff disappears.

Now you see Mt Duff...Now You Don't

Now you see Mt Duff…Now You Don’t

A Walk on the Wild Side

At the first clearing, we decided to go for a walk along the ridge of Ile Agakauitai that starts at the bay and wraps around to the lagoon.  Sweetie (our dinghy) has a long shaft outboard so we decided to take Leela’s dinghy with a much shallower draft. This would allow us to cross over the reef to get to the ridge.   Matt and Graham tied the dinghy to a tree and then pushed her away from the rocks.  Didn’t do much good as the tide brought her right back to the rocks, but what can you do?  We started off walking along a fairly flat area with protected pools of water. 

Ridge Walking

Ridge Walking

We came across these little inlets that I later learned from my European friends were called “tickles.”

Tickles

Tickles

There was this beautiful lava or rock table that had such great texture that it looked man-made.  But, no, it was embedded into the rock below.  Mother nature is an artist.

Awesome Lava Formations

Cool Lava Table Structures

Cool Lava Table Structures

As we turned left, around the corner leaving the bay, we started seeing a lot more pools of water.  These would range from 1’-6’ in depth.  It was really interesting to see the different growth in each pool – based on the amount of water coming in each one.

Pools of Water on the Ridge

Pools of Water on the Ridge

As we continued on our way along the ridge of Ile Agakauitai, we crossed over several lava formations.  We were told that lava would come up through a crack or fisher and create these formations that looked like roads to me.

Lava Road

Lava Road

The water in some of the pools was crystal clear.  In some of the photos (top two) you cannot even tell I am shooting through water.  The top right is a large crab saying “hello Christine” the middle is a landslide with a fallen tree and lots of rocks.

Beautiful Scenery on our Walk

Beautiful Scenery on our Walk

Yep, I win for best photo sequence

We found one fairly large pool that Matt decided to take a dip in.  I took this hysterical sequence of photos as he jumped in – I cannot believe I captured some of these! Matt starting out checking the depth, then assuming the position.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

Things start to fall apart as he loses his form and tries to break dance on the surface of the water.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

And he gets a 10 for style points, but a 2 for splash factor.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

Unfortunately, there were lots of goat heads on Ile Agakauitai.  Not sure where the rest of the body ends up…

New Hat Attire?

New Hat Attire?

Snorkeling

We were hiding from a strong easterly wind for several days.  On the first day, we went for a snorkel with a few friends from Leela (Graham and Janicki) and Yello (Daniela).  It was our first snorkel near Ile Agakauitai and it was really interesting  with shallow reefs and a good variety of fish. 

We anchored the dinghy in a little sandy patch and jumped in.  We swam over the large reef in about a ½ meter of water.  It was really cool to see the little fish, crabs, and sea creatures in the nooks and crannies of the reef.

Reef

Reef

I found this purple lipped clam that was sewn into a two-layer coral shelf with half of its body on the upper shelf and the half on the lower shelf.

INSERT PURPLE CLAM

As you continue to swim along the reef, you come across these large pockets or areas that dive 10-15 meters deep.  Here you will find the large napoleons, angels, and groupers.  There were several that were well over a meter in length.

Beautiful Purple Lipstick

Beautiful Purple Lipstick

Some large fish exploring us exploring them

Some large fish exploring us exploring them

Lots of large coral tables or shelves, not sure what they are called, but it looks like you could sit down to tea.  And they come in all sorts of colors. 

Beautiful Coral Tables

Beautiful Coral Tables

I tracked several fun looking fish.  I found these four dual colored fish.  Half their bodies were one color and the other half another.  Maybe juveniles?   And of course, a little puffer fish.

Underwater friends in Agakauitai

Underwater friends in Agakauitai

Mt Duff from the trail

Wet and Wild Hike

Matt and I decided we needed to get up and move.  We had not been hiking since the Marquesas (several weeks) and needed to re-engage our legs.  The only drawback is that we have had lots and lots of rain since we arrived.  So, we knew it would be a wet and wild hike.

We started out on the main road heading over the ridge.  Along the way we passed by the local school.  This is the only school in the Gambiers and it was in need of some lovin the last time we were here.  It was great to see that they were building new classrooms for the young people.

School Expansion

School Expansion

Tombeau de Roi

Further down the road we came across the “King’s Tomb” which is called Tombeau de Roi.  We couldn’t read the head stones, but I imagine that it will be grave sites of the past chiefs and rulers of the Gambiers.

Tombeau de Roi

Tombeau de Roi

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Just past the Tombeau de Roi is the weather station called Meteo France Station de Rikitea.  We explored the facility but missed the opportunity to see them launch the weather balloon.  Evidently, they launch the weather balloon on weekdays at 1400 which would have been fun to see.

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Couvent de Rouru

After the road turned into a dirt road and about 1 mile down, we stumbled across an old convent.  The name is Couvent de Rouru.  As you walk up the green grassy path you walk along an old stone wall.  There were two stone buildings still standing on property.  The first is still proudly standing, albeit in ruins.  Plants, trees, and vines are trying their best to take over (upper right corner photo).  Inside there is one carved cross still visible.

Couvent de Rouru

Couvent de Rouru

Further inside is another stone ruin plopped in the middle of the grassy field.  Behind the convent was a gorgeous arch that leads to a grassy path below the trees.

Couvent de Rouru

Couvent de Rouru

Baptismal Pond

We stumbled across the baptismal pond which needed some serious lovin as it was not something you wanted to be baptized in.  Hidden in the floral bushes was a mound marked by a sign that read “Baignoire de J.A. Princesse.”  Climbing up the mound is the pond overlooking the bay.

INSERT 3 COLLAGE (dated 24 May)

Chemin des 12 Apotres

We finally get to the start of the trail, Chemin des 12 Apotres (12 Apostles) which had a nice little sign, some old ruins, and a carved stone at the entrance.

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Within the first ½ mile we came across more ruins hidden in the trees waiting for someone to explore them.

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Chemin des 12 Apotres

The path was incredibly muddy, slippery, and wet.  Just a small part of the wet and wild hike.  But the good news is we came across several waterfalls that were flowing nicely with the recent rainfalls.

Two small waterfalls

Two small waterfalls

A huge squall hit us about 2 hours into our hike.  We hid under a giant rock to avoid being drenched.  It only lasted for about 15-20 minutes.

Hidden from the storm

Hidden from the storm

We had our Garmin GPS and maps.me to prevent us from getting lost.  But, you know how that goes.  The trail we were on was not on either instrument.  But what we could tell was that the road which ran above us had ended.  Yikes.  We decided to try to find a path up to the road to head back.  We were about 3.5 miles into our hike at this time.

Forging Our Own Path

There were no trails, not even goat trails.  We started up the hill and realized our path was covered in raspberry bushes.  Which sounds pleasant at first considering we did not bring lunch and we were starving.  But then reality sinks in as these bushes are covered in lovely little prickles that stick hard and deep into everything!  And to top it off, the raspberries were not ready for pickin!  So, we decided to go up the little river/waterfall to limit the amount of whacking we had to do to clear a path.

Matt led the way with a giant tree stump and whacked the path for both of us (so sweet).  Up we climb the waterfall, across stumps, boulders and debris.  Super slippery, wet, and challenging.

Forging our own path

Forging our own path

After about 1.5 hours of climbing we finally came across a dirt road, thank God!  We were both so tired and sore from being stuck by bushes.  I wanted to show you how high we had to whack our way to the top, but the bottom photo does do it justice.

Long walk home

Long walk home

When it was all said and done, our wet and wild hike was 5 hours, 6.4 miles, 15,520 steps and 33 floors.

Cultural Performers

Cultural Easter Dance Exhibition

Twenty-one students from the local college (which is the equivalent of high school in the U.S.) were selected to perform at a competition in Hawaii.  They presented their cultural routine over dinner at the sports center.  We were excited to see what type of performance this would be as they are always different. Not just in dance routines and costumes, but in story-telling.  We had no idea what to expect.

It had been a particularly rainy day.  Buckets and buckets of water came pouring out of the sky throughout the day.  Our friends on Leela (Graham and Janicky) decided to brave the elements with us.  Matt and I were super lucky in that it was only drizzling on our way in.  We had our foulies (dry weather jackets) and dry bags and made a run for it and only get a few sprinkles.  But, 5 minutes later, our friends came in drenched.  Ugh.

After standing around for a little bit, we commandeered a table.  The boys went next door to buy dinner tickets and to wait for our food.  The parents of the performers were in charge of the BBQ which smelled divine. 

BBQ Dinner. Buying Tickets and Picking up

BBQ Dinner. Buying Tickets and Picking up

The boys came back with a steak and chicken combo that was accompanied by a pasta salad and bread fruit.  Way too much for the table, but we dug in!

The setting is really pretty with all-natural decorations.  The colorful plant leaves are placed into cut tree trunks that create the border around the stage area.  In the background are two constructed changing areas for the performers to change into their costumes.

Beautiful decor at the cultural dance

Beautiful decor at the cultural dance

The Story Begins

I had to make a lot of assumptions, since I do not speak Mangarevan and do not know the cultural significance of the dance.  I did ask a local friend of mine on some of the interpretation, but most of it is my assumption based on the dance moves throughout the story.  The biggest difference between this performance all of the other performances we have seen is that the dancers are extremely humble and solemn.  There is no great joy or passion or smiling faces.  They have a story to tell and were taught to tell it with respect and honor.

The musicians were setting up during dinner which included 5 sets of drums and a very loud aluminum drum.  The beat or rhythm was unlike anything we have ever heard and it reverberated throughout the sports center.

Performer Drummers

Performer Drummers

Covered in green leaves and topped with crowns, the kids started their story.  There are three students who are lead characters.  They all were semi-bent over as they raised their hands and swayed from side to side.  It was as if they were paying homage to someone or something. 

Performing the Cultural Dance

Performing the Cultural Dance

The kids ages range from 12-15 years old. It makes me wonder why the serious faces.

Performing the Cultural Dance

Performing the Cultural Dance

The boys knelt and hovered over the girls while raising their hands.  These are two of the leads that remained in front and were charged with the main story telling.

Two leads perform the main roles

Two leads perform the main roles

The female lead remained bent over for most of the beginning and then she started holding her tummy.  Hmmm, is she pregnant (in the story).  The male lead would walk her around gently and reverently as if showcasing his proud mom to be.

Communicating their story through dance

Communicating their story through dance

Preparing for the Baby

We did not know it at the time, but the next part of the story is preparing for the baby.  The girls all sat while the boys knelt down beside them.  First, they cleansed them with water by cupping water in their hands and slowly washing it over their arms and legs (top and middle left photos).  Next, they dusted their arms with mixture that looked like sand but I am sure it was something far more significant (bottom left photo).  The final part of the preparations was the cutting of the hair (lower right photo).

Preparing for the Baby

Preparing for the Baby

This is a photo of the cleansing water and ointment spread on the arms and legs of the women.

Holy Water and Special Dusting

Holy Water and Special Dusting

After the preparations were done, the lead girl was surrounded by her community while chanting was going on.  When she appeared next, her husband was carrying a baby.  He took the baby to an area where they cleansed and baptized it before presenting it to the community.

Boys Transition to Manhood

In Polynesian culture, at the age of 14, boys perform a series of tests before coming of age or transitioning into “manhood.”  Once they have completed their tasks or tests, they receive tattoos telling their stories.  The performers showed the older boys giving the younger boys a “traditional tattoo” using the tapping method.  After they receive their tattoo, the older boys apply oil and then perform a dance introducing them into the community as a man.  Then they all celebrate in dance.

Tattooing and Marking The Boys for Manhood

Tattooing and Marking The Boys for Manhood

I was able to capture this group photo before the event started.  I love the little baby in the lower right corner looking at the kids with awe.

Cultural Performers

Cultural Performers

It certainly was a unique experience.  I am sure it would have been far more powerful had I understood the language or known the story.  But even without that knowledge it was beautiful to see the cultural significance performed by the young people.