Tag Archives: fresh market

Luganville: The Dreaded Errands

It had been over 2 months since Matt and I were in a “town.”  We were in need of so many things that we had to make a day of it.   We hired a taxi driver to pick us up at a large concrete dock off of Oyster Bay Lagoon in the island of Santo.  Thank goodness he came in a pick up truck as we filled the back of it up!  And off we go to Luganville, the largest town on Santo and frankly in the northern islands of Vanuatu.

We had 2 large bags and 3 small bags of rubbish (the small bags belonged to another boat).  We had 7 jerry cans, 1 propane bottle and lots of empty bags to fill.  It is a nice 40-minute drive from Oyster Bay lagoon to Luganville.  The main town is all on one street located on the waterfront with many stores.

Luganville

Our first stop had to be the dump to get rid of our rubbish. We had heard that they recycle aluminum and tusker beer bottles but we later learned they only recycle the tusker bottles.  if you notice all of the red bags in the dump it is because those are municipality bags.  Locals buy these particular bags and then leave their bags in designated places on the street for free.  We heard about this and bought yellow bags in Efate thinking we could use them all over Vanuatu.  Ha!  Not the case.  Each island has their own color.  If you do not have the proper color you cannot leave your bag in the designated spots on the street.  Oh well, we tried.   Efate has yellow bags and Santo has red bags.

Our next stop was Paradise Petroleum.  We had (5) 20 liter and (2) 30 liter jerry cans to fill with benzine (aka gasoline).  We use gasoline for the dinghy and for our small portable generator.  The big boat uses diesel.  We had lots of cloudy days with no solar and had to use the generator a lot.  Plus we were out exploring in the dinghy using up a lot of fuel.  We filled up 157 liters and it cost $257 USD (192vt/liter).  Hopefully, this gasoline will last us for 2.5-3 months.

We also refilled our propane tank which we use for cooking and the BBQ ($21USD).  This should last us 4-5 months.

Next it was off to Digicel to get top up cards for our local SIM which I use to have internet access onshore.  We hit the fresh market (lower right photo above), the butcher (just because), Santo Hardware, and the fairly well stocked LCM Grocery Store.  The hardware store did not have a hose or machete that we wanted but we did buy some nice fishing lures.

Will it All Fit?

We were on a mission and were in and out of every store relatively fast.  By 11:45am we were heading back to Oyster Bay Lagoon.  I have to say that I am still impressed with all that we did in such a short amount of time.  We stuffed it all in the back of the truck and prayed it would all fit in the dinghy.

  • 7 Bags of groceries
  • 3 cases of beer
  • 7 jerry cans
  • 1 propane tank

I guess after 7.5 years of doing this we have it down to an art….no problem with the fit and we got the dinghy to plane!  We unloaded it onto the boat and admired our stash.

An expensive day for sure, but this will hold us over for several months.  

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We went to Luganville on 7 August 2024.  Did you read about our trip to a private island and resort in our last blog?

Touring Tanna: Part I

A group of our cruiser friends decide to take a tour of Tanna.  This beautiful island is famous for several things:

  • Mt. Yasur which we will dedicate a blog post to
  • The “World’s Largest Banyan Tree”
  • Tanna’s Baha’i House of Worship
  • John Frum’s cargo cult village (separate blog post)

We start our tour by driving below the majestic Mt. Yasur active volcano.  This is the world’s most accessible live volcano and we plan to visit it up close and personal soon.  It was so very interesting to see the change in the landscape.  It went from lush green foliage to desolate lava land.

I was in awe of the volcano and its surroundings and cannot wait to share our adventure as we hike to the caldera.

The Fresh Market

We stop in Lenakel which is the “main town” in the southern tip of Tanna.  We pick up some fresh produce at the market, local currency, and some SIM cards.  I love how they make their baskets out of leaves and everything is locally harvested.

After a leisurely breakfast and shopping we hope back in our Ute and head to what they claim to be the “world’s largest banyan tree.”  I will say it truly is a massive tree which spans across 200 meters and stands 80 meters tall.

World’s Largest Banyan Tree

Our guide walks us down a small, dirt path into the valley where the natural surroundings and undisturbed ecosystem send chills up your spine.  All you hear are the birds in the trees, you smell the flora, and see the beauty.  

The tree is located near the Leitouapam villages (there are two and they take turns giving tours) which is about 15 minutes from the town of Lenakel.  You pay a $2000VT fee for the 30-45 minute tour.  

Nobody really knows how old the tree is but rumors are that this tree was immense long before Captain Cook arrived in 1774.

Interesting enough, there are male and female banyan trees.  Male trees grow as one large trunk whereas a female has one main trunk which then grows branches that grow out and descend to take root in the ground.  These air branches can grow hundreds of meters wide, like our beauty below.  

It looks like a lot of unique trees in the photos, but in reality it is one beautiful, old female tree with thousands of air branches that have embedded themselves into the ground to feed the entire tree.

Tanna Baha’i House of Worship

Baháʼí Houses of Worship are open to both Baháʼís and non-Baháʼís for prayer and reflection. All Baháʼí Houses of Worship have a round, nine-sided shape and are surrounded by nine pathways leading outwards and nine gardens. Baháʼí literature envisages Houses of Worship surrounded by a number of dependencies dedicated to social, humanitarian, educational, and scientific pursuits.  There are currently 14 Baha’i Houses of Worship as of 2023.

The Tanna Baha’i House of Worship has no windows and now walls.  As is custom, it has 9 doors (entryways) and 9 paths leading to unique gardens.  It is truly a peaceful and breathtaking setting.

They select the locations based on peace and spiritual settings.

There are no priests and they welcome all religions into their sanctuary.  It is said that only one house of worship is allowed in each continent. They also believe in total equality for men and women.

Here is a website for the Baha’i House of Worship in Vanuatu.

Our last stop is the very unique john Frum Cargo Cult Village.  This required it’s own blog post so stay tuned and learn why they believe an American WWII veteran is believed to bring untold riches to this tiny village on Tanna.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred in early June.  Learn more about the beautiful island of Tanna from our last blog post.

Provision Run in Colon.

Exploring The Big City of Colon, Panama

Matt and I hired a taxi to take us to the big city of Colon. We could have taken a 2+ hour bus ride for $3 each but we wanted to do a large provisioning run and make multiple stops.  A friend of ours gave us the name of a wonderful, English speaking taxi driver, Jack who took care of us!  Our goal was to hit the fresh market, the Zona Libre de Colon (free zone), and Quartro Alto all in one day.

Jack picked us up at 0730 and we were on our way.  It was such a nice ride being in a car rather than the noisy, bumpy, rickety bus.  We were able to enjoy the beautiful rolling hillside.  Panama is very lush, green, and beautiful this time of year.  We passed through several coastal towns, tons of farms with grazing cows and horses, and a large national park.  After about an hour and a half, we arrived in Colon.

We had heard that Colon was not safe and that we should not walk around, but Jack assured us that he would guide us in the right direction and keep us in safe areas.  And he did.

The fresh market is similar to the one in Colombia with fresh fish, meats, veggies and fruits.  The free zone is a massive (thousands of stores) area where you can buy just about anything duty free and tax free, and Quatro Alto is a large outdoor mall that has a huge grocery store, technology stores, and a marine store that we wanted to check out.

The first stop was a marine store.  We were in need of a few basic items such as boat polish, friction rings, silicone grease, 4000 UV adhesive, etc.. and the marine store in Quatro Alto is small.

The first marine store was well organized, two story building mostly dedicated to fisherman.  The entire bottom floor housed fishing gear, lures, poles, dry suits, spears guns and more.  The smaller upstairs had boat stuff, but it was pretty darn small.  At this store, we found boat polish and our U.V. sealant which was good.

The fresh market was next as you want to get here earlier than later to get the freshest foods.  We were instructed to stay inside the open air building as it was located in a “not so good area.”  Jack would have come in with us but he could not find a parking spot.  He dropped us off and picked us up at the entrance.  It was similar to Colombia, but much more organized and professional looking with official stands for each vendor.  We did a quick walk through first before we decided which vendor to buy from – there were a lot, but we wanted to get as much as we could from one place.

Fresh market in Colon, Panama

Fresh market in Colon, Panama

It’s overwhelming because you can’t hide from the damage we do to animals  Again, I do eat meat, but seeing the meat section makes me sick.  We ended up buying a 9 kilo pork shoulder for $20 and lot of veggies including: 3-papaya, 3-pineapple, 2-stocks of celery, 2-cucumbers, 2-squash, 10-oranges, 5-limes, 3-green peppers, 2-red peppers, cilantro, 2-avocados, 3-apples, 4-onions, and 2-heads of lettuce for about $36.  The price stunned us, but we were too busy grabbing stuff to ask  for prices and we just wanted to get out of there.  Either way, they were fresh and looked delightful!

Fresh fruits and veggies from Colon, Panama

Fresh fruits and veggies from Colon, Panama.

Next stop, the Zona Libre de Colon.  Jack did not know much about Zona Libre de Colon so we really did not know what to expect.   Liquor and perhaps an iPhone replacement were top priority for this excursion.  Friends told us that it might be difficult to get cases of liquor out of the zone and to ask before we buy:  good plan!   Jack dropped us off at a secondary gate and we went to the office to get a pass.  After showing our passports, we paid $1 each and were let lose in the jungle. This place is so big that they have tour guides on the corners to show you around.  There were well over 16 blocks in the clothing area alone.  We found a tour guide and asked where the technology section was and he pointed 4 blocks down and 10 blocks over.

Several stores had the apple logo, but many did not sell any apple products, WTF?  A few stores had the 7+ but they were more expensive than buying from the states so we soon gave up on this search.

Next we found the liquor area where we were hoping to buy a few cases of rum, vodka, and beer.  We had heard that you could buy a bottle of vodka for $4.  Once we found a good store, we inquired about the process.  We could certainly buy the cases, but they did not know how to get it out of the free zone.  Our taxi driver did not even have a permit to come into the free zone (he could not drive his car in so he dropped us off outside).  If we had a connection at the gate we might have been able to pull it off, but we didn’t  After discussing a few scenarios, we decided it was not worth the trouble and walked away.

An hour later, we were done with Zona Libre de Colon and a bit exhausted after walking around for a little over an hour.  Now we had to find our way back to the place where Jack dropped us off.  Most of the streets did not have names and did not go all the way through.  We knew we needed to get back to Calle 14 and Enrique Jimenez but the later street never appeared again.  After wondering around aimlessly for awhile we asked a vendor who pointed us to 3 exists.  We took our best guess and headed toward the one that looked closest to where we started and low and behold we found it!  Yeah.

Jack took us to Cuatro Alto to find a Mas Movil sim card, a marine store, and the market.  This was a lot more civil than the free zone.  We easily found a place to buy our sim card so that we now have multiple ways to try to get online while in San Blas.  We have the Digicel card, the Mas Movil, GoogleFi and of course Matt’s pirate ways.  Try to hide from us now, Mr. Internet!

The marine store in Quatro Alto was very, very small.  Even smaller than the first store we went into and we were not able to find much of anything there.  It looks like we will have to order the rest on Amazon so I can bring it back with me in January.

Supermercado Reys is the largest grocery chain in Panama and is owned by a single family.  It was a very clean, orderly, and well stocked market.  We loaded up two carts with almost everything on our list.  We found a 750 bottle of Smirnoff vodka for $8 (not the $4 bargain we hoped for, but not bad) so we grabbed 4.  I know, you are wondering if I lost my mind as it is not a potato vodka, but beggars can’t be choosers.  We also found a liter bottle of Abuelo rum for $10 so we grabbed 6 bottles.  We’ve heard that alcohol is very expensive on the Pacific side so we are stocking up.  We could not find cases of beer or diet coke so we swung by the Reys in Sabanitas to get the last items on our list.

Exhausted, we headed back to Linton Bay and hauled our goods to the precarious dinghy dock, managing not to dump anything in the water.

Loading up the dinghy with a huge provision run.

Loading up the dinghy with a huge provision run.

It took Matt and I a few hours to stow everything.  We removed all cardboard and labels from cans (prevents weevils), wrote expiration dates on all cans, bottles, jars.  Cut up, vacu sealed, and labeled all frozen meats. bleached and washed all fruits and veggies, and managed to find places to store it all inside the boat.

A few alcoholic beverages...

A few alcoholic beverages…

Success List:

  • Food
  • Beverages & Liquor
  • Sim card
  • Marine Store
  • Fresh Fruits and Veggies

We were so tired, but we decided we deserved a reward and headed to the bar to catch the last of happy hour.  The usual crew was there, “Sweet Chariot” “White Shadow” “Wandering Rose” and a few others.

Happy hour in Linton Bay, Panama

Happy hour in Linton Bay, Panama

It was a fun day, full of a few adventures.  Colon turned out to be lovely, but we did have rose colored glasses on with the help of our new friend Jack!