Tag Archives: french polynesia

Twin Tikis and Sugar Shack

Bay of Virgins: In Search of a Virgin

Surely at the Bay of Virgins you would find one or two?  This is a really small village filled with really nice people.  We walked through town which took about 7 minutes.  The magasin is small and stocked with the basics.  I met the owner who tried to convince me to trade a bottle of rum for some tapa.  I politely declined because we’ve been told by many, many people NOT to trade liquor.

New Year’s Eve

Meats have been really difficult, if not impossible, to find in French Polynesia.  We’ve been able to find chicken in bulk and a few small bags of wings. But we have not seen steak, pork chops or pork shoulder since Tahiti.  We have one more meal of pork chops and two small pork shoulders left.  Then it will be lots of chicken until we get back to Tahiti next summer.  So, it is a treat to eat pork.  For Christmas Matt made pork chops for us and for NYE he broke out a pork shoulder and made BBQ pulled pork sandwiches which were divine!  We followed it down with a lovely bottle of bubbly and tried our best to stay up.  However, at 2230, we decided it was midnight somewhere and called it a night.  Party animals that we are!

NEW YEAR

New Year’s Day was spent hiking to a waterfall with our friends on Maple. We decided that it would be a great way to start the year.  It was a relatively short hike 2.1 miles up on a paved road that turned into a dirt road.  The last 1/3 of the trail was a tad bit tricky but since it is summer here, it was dry.  I can imagine it would be more challenging during the winter when the trail is slippery and muddy.

Hike to waterfall

Hike to waterfall

A nice local marked the trail with rock formations on the last 1/3 of the trail (see bottom right photo).  It proved to be helpful keeping us on track.

The waterfall was super tall and very lovely.  The photos don’t do it justice, but trust me when I say how pretty it is.  I had to take two photos to get the top and the bottom.  A refreshing pool lay at the base of the waterfall and we all took a dip.  We enjoyed some snacks and beverages before heading back down the mountain.

Waterfall

Waterfall

Fatu Hiva is a really green island.  It is unusual because it is summer time and their dry season.  Most of the other islands are a little brown so it is amazing to see so much greenery here.   On the way down, we could clearly see the caldera which was stunning.  See bottom right photo.

View of Bay from Shore

View of Bay from Shore

A sweet female dog adopted a kitten.  It was the cutest thing to see this cat and dog together.  The kitten had no idea her mom was different than her, it just didn’t matter.

Mamma dog to a cat

Mamma dog to a cat

DAY TRIP WITH MAPLE

The main village of Fatu Hiva is called Omoa and is about 3nm away from Bay of Virgins.  It is a little too far to take the dinghy so we decided to take the big boat over for a day trip.  We invited Maple on board and made the short 1-hour motor to Omoa.

Not sure why they consider this the “main village” as it was no bigger than Hanavave.  It too had one magasin, post office, Le Mairie, church, and school.  It did have a small stadium for events and a museum.  We tried really hard to find someone to open the museum.  We asked at the post office, magasin, and stopped several locals. We found the proprietor’s home but she was not home so no luck seeing the museum.

The village is full of lots of fruit trees.  Bananas, papaya, mango, avocado, pumplemouse and more.  Beautiful twin tikis stood guard at the marina.

Twin Tikis and Sugar Shack

Twin Tikis and Sugar Shack

On the way back we saw this super cool cave formation that created a giant opening.  We took the dinghy to explore it closer because it was so pretty.  The top photo is of Bay of Virgins with Sugar Shack super small just before the jetty opening.

Cool cave formation in Bay of Virgins

Cool cave formation in Bay of Virgins

Matt & Christine

Tu Hiva Tiki in Nuku Hiva

Legend has it that god made a “big house” represented by the Marquesan islands.  The largest of them is Nuku Hiva which is the top of the framework.  The tallest peak on the island is well over 4,000’.  Nuku Hiva is the 2nd largest island in French Polynesia and the main island in the Marquesas with a total population of 3k people.

Originally, we were planning on making our way straight to Ua Poa after leaving the Tuamotus.  However, we were in desperate need of provisions and fuel and needed to arrive in a more populated island.  Thus, our arrival to Nuku Hiva.  After all, we had a wonderful, but long stay away from civilization.  For the past 6 weeks we have been off the grid so to speak.  The Fakarava south pass and Tahanea had zero supplies.  Makemo had several magasins but they were mostly empty waiting for the supply ship (which only arrives every 3 weeks). 

Needing a replenishment of fruits, veggies, bread, eggs, and meats, we arrived at the main island of Nuku Hiva.  Sugar Shack was hungry and in need of diesel and gasoline as we had not refueled since Tahiti in early July (4 months prior).  

There are 5 magasins here, some better stocked than others.  Lots of fresh produce including at the veggie market and magasins.  There is also a fish market and fisherman who sell their daily catch each morning (at 0530).  Lots of options!

We know several cruisers here!  Our friends on Maple showed up 24 hours after we did (remember we left Makemo at the same time, but they have a smaller boat that does not point as well as Sugar Shack).  Our friends on Heart and Soul (Dave and Margaret) welcomed us to the baie.  We had not seen them since Valdivia, Chile.  And our friends on Bella (Matias and Ulreka) whom we have not seen since Curacao over 2 years ago are here.  It is amazing to me how small the cruising community is while sailing the vast open waters.

Hike to Baie Colette

We gathered a group of cruisers for a hike to another baie.  There were 12 of us, but we only knew 7 of them (Maple, Heart and Soul, and Bella).  A gent name Williem from Rambler, a couple from Lila (Graham and Janet) were also with us.

Hiking Crew in Nuku Hiva

Hiking Crew in Nuku Hiva

It was a fairly easy hike up a few hills, but it was hot.  We passed a lovely cemetery that was well manicured.

Cemetery in Nuku Hiva

Cemetery in Nuku Hiva

Breathtaking views along the way of the Taiohae Baie where we are anchored.  We are the boat by itself on the far right.

Baie Colette Hike

Baie Colette Hike

We arrived to a beautiful black sand beach and cool waters.  It was great to cool off in the water.  There was a small tiki under a bougainvillea bush too.

Baie Colette Success

Baie Colette Success

Tu Hiva Tiki

Fort Madison was established in 1813.  In 1842 it received military headquarters, barracks, a warehouse, a powder magazine to add to the seven cannon guns.  The French take over the fort in 1842 but then abandon it in 1859.  The Catholic Missionaries take over and turn it into a school and then a hospital.

Fort Madison in Nuku Hiva

Fort Madison in Nuku Hiva

At the fort, overlooking the baie is the Tiki Tuhiva.  It is known to be the highest contemporary sculpture in the Pacific.  It has an iron structure which is completely covered with shotcrete coated with “keetu” (a reddish volcanic tuff used by Marquesan stone carvers.

The woman tiki is 12 meters high and the warrior is 8 meters tall.  It took six months and six people to erect both statues.  The warrior Tuhiva steps forward to master his future with the ancestral strength inherited from “Woman Tiki” the warden of tradition and knowledge.

Tu Hiva Tiki

Tu Hiva Tiki

Another smaller version of the tiki was found on the Fort grounds as well.

Tu Hiva Tiki

Tu Hiva Tiki

Celebrating Year Wedding Anniversary – 14 years

Matt and I enjoyed a day at the Keikahanui Pearl Resort to celebrate our 14th wedding anniversary.  It was a bit of a splurge for us, but we enjoyed every minute.  We enjoyed a very tasty lunch and several bottles of rose while lounging at their pool and using their wifi.  What a great day!

Lunch on our Anniersary

Lunch on our Anniversary

 

We had so much fun hanging out at the pool, drinking rose and enjoying the beautiful day.

Celebrating 14 years together

Celebrating 14 years together

A funny picture of a young boy carrying his chickens around town.

A boy and his chickens

A boy and his chickens

We have been busy here.  

  • Refueled boat (both diesel and gasoline)
  • Filled both dive tanks
  • Topped up propane tanks
  • Did several loads of laundry
  • Water tanks topped off
  • Provisioned the boat
  • Fixed our jib sail
Sail repair

Sail repair

Drone Shots:

Matt took some great shots of the Tu Hiva Tiki with the drone

Tu Hiva Tiki

Tu Hiva Tiki

Aerial photo of the anchorage and the tiki.

Nuku Hiva Anchorage

Nuku Hiva Anchorage

Sugar Shack siting by herself being unsociable.

Sugar Shack in Nuku Hiva

Sugar Shack in Nuku Hiva

 

Nuku Hiva

The Mountainous Islands of Marquesas

What a change of scenery!  It was so nice to wake up to tall, sweeping mountains against a brilliant blue sky.  Of course, I was still partially asleep being we just set the hook 4 hours earlier.  The mountain sides are not particularly green and lush in Baie Taiohae, but they are pretty.  Welcome to the Marquesas.

Most cruising boats plan to arrive to this archipelago when traveling from Panama and Galapagos.  It is a direct route with typically good winds allowing for an 18-30 day passage.  Number of days depends on the boats, sail trim, and wind obviously.  The cruisers we know that have made this passage tended to complete it in 25-28 days.  The exception was Barry with Adventures of an Old Sea Dog who took over 70 days as a single handler. 

Most of our cruisers friends stopped at the Marquesas first.  We, however, have never been here before.  As you might recall, we arrived in the Gambiers when entering French Polynesia.  So, these beautiful and majestic islands are all new to us!

The Marquesas Archipelago

There are five major islands, but a total of 15 that make up the Marquesas archipelago. The major islands include Nuka Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Pu, Fatu Hiva, and Ua Huka.  The first settlement was in AD 900-1,000 by Polynesians.  It wasn’t until 1526 that it was later “discovered by the Spanish.  Today, over 9,400 inhabitants populate the Marquesas islands.

Marquesas Archipelago

Marquesas Archipelago

The Marquesas suffered a great population decline from endemic diseases carried by Western explorers.  The indigenous people suffered high rates of mortality as they had no immunity to the new diseases.  The population was reduced from 78k inhabitants to about 20k by the middle of the nineteenth century.  By the turn of the 20th century, the population was further reduced to just over 4k.  By 1926, it was a measly 2300 inhabitants. Shortly thereafter, the population took a turn and slowly increased to 8,500 in 2002 and finally to 9,400 in 2017.

In contrast to the other Polynesian islands, the Marquesas are all volcanic and high islands (except Motu One).  With steep volcanic mountains that plunge straight into the ocean.  They are also very dry islands, unlike its sister Polynesian islands that are lush and flowing with tropical vegetation.  View of Baie Taiohae the morning after we arrived.

Mountains of Nuku Hiva

Mountains of Nuku Hiva

The Marquesas’ islands are not surrounded by a protective fringing reef which is another difference between the archipelagos.  Coral is only found in one place in the Marquesas.  Coral is at the top of the island Fatu Huku, a rather strange location. 

Different from the Tuamotus

These islands suffer from frequent drought conditions because of their prevailing easterly winds that spawn from the Humbolt Current.  This has led to historical fluctuations in water supply, which have played a crucial role in the sustainability of human populations in certain sections of the various islands throughout the archipelago.

The islands range in age.  Fatu Hiva is the youngest island at 1.3 million years old and Eiao is the oldest island at 6 million years old. 

The Marquesas islands also known as Henua Enana, land of men has created a race of strong people of immense pride and fascinating culture.  The islands are full of natural wonders including 305 meter (1000’) waterfalls that cascade down volcanic cliffs and towering mountains.