Tag Archives: french polynesia

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies on Taravai

You would think we were smarter than the average bear, but sometimes, no.  After 5-days of constant rain we decided we needed to stretch our legs.  There was a hike to the top of the ridge of Taravai that had several ascending peaks.  We decided to shoot for the first peak and if we were feeling “jiggy” after that we might go to the next one.  Ha, that is funny because we did not account for the swamps which quickly turned us into the mud buddies!

It was Leela (Graham and Janicki), Pitufa (Birgit and Christian), and Matt and I.  We all met on shore at Edouard’s house.  He is one of the 7 inhabitants of this island.  He and his wife are the only people who live on the southwest side of the island and they have a huge property.  It is amazing to see the ingenious things they have done.  Edouard and Denise have the only home in the Gambiers that has a natural water fed source.  They have a pipe leading from a waterfall pool, down the hillside, direct to their home.  They also have a large solar panel system that provides all the electricity, and a strong breakwater wall to protect their home.

Edouard's House off Taravai

Edouard’s House off Taravai

Garden of Eden

Edourd and Denise sustain themselves with their bountiful garden.  They have a large green house that is currently being replanted, where they grow tomatoes and cucumbers. In addition, they grow sweet potatoes, lettuce, and mint.  They also have an abundance of fruit trees (pomplemouse, avocados, bananas, papaya, mangoes, lemons).  We each received bags of fruit for 1000xpf ($10 USD) which included a small stock of plantains, stock of bananas, avocados, lemons, and pomplemouse – a huge score for us!

Mud Buddies

Our friends on Pitufa knew of a trail that went around the Taravai ridge.  Thank goodness Christian led the group with a machete in hand.  The start of the trail was not actually a trail, but a break in the bushes.  We tromped through the knee-high grass and fallen trees right into a giant muddy swamp.  For the most part we could walk across the fallen trees to avoid the majority of the mud, but a few weren’t so lucky.  Janicky and Birgit became our first mud buddies.

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies

Spirits high, we forged ahead.  Under giant tree limbs, over rocks, through the bushes, as we continue to look for the “trail.”  It was a slow hike up because of the mud and slippery hillside.  In addition, whoever was in the lead had to whack the bushes to make a space for passage. Poor Matt became the lead whacker.

Mud Buddy Trail

Mud Buddy Trail

The other fun thing we had to contend with were the wasps.  They build their nests in the tall grass and bushes.  They were fine until we came through with the machete and our feet.  Several of us got stung which was certainly unpleasant.  We had planned ahead and brought several lemons with us as that takes the “bite” out of the sting (sort of).

There were several beautiful views along the way.  One was of the boats (the left photo is Sugar Shack and Yelo – both Catanas).  The top right is a view of the Taravai village and the bottom right is a photo of another island.

We finally made it to the “flat” ridge point, albeit wet and muddy.  The mud buddies made it!

Top of Trail at Taravai

Top of Trail at Taravai

We decided it was too wet to continue on and frankly we were too tired.  It was not terribly far or high, but for some reason we were all tired.  Total of 2.5 miles up 29 floors and 6,603 steps.    We tracked our trail on the way down, but the silly track is yellow on a yellow background.

Mud Buddy Track

Mud Buddy Track

We descended down the mountain with no issues but decided to take the beach route back to avoid the muddy swamp.  It was truly beautiful.

Paradise After Mud

Beautiful Beach Bath

Mud Buddy Track

We made it back to Edouard’s house where we collected our fruit.  He is a super nice, albeit shy man.  He only speaks French so our friends had to translate for us.  We were super grateful for the fresh produce and his hospitality.

Edouard and his girls

Edouard and his girls

Some pretty shots

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Moonrise

Moonrise

Matt just hanging out

Ile Agakauitai Ridge Walk

We hid from a storm between Taravai and Ile Agakauitai with a few of our friends on Leela (Graham and Janicki) and Pitufa (Birgit and Christian).  It was 5 days of constant rain and high winds.  Strange considering it is their summer, but from what we have heard, this has been their wettest summer in 5 decades.  It’s what keeps the mountains so lush and green!  Below is a photo after the rain and during the rain – the entire Mt. Duff disappears.

Now you see Mt Duff...Now You Don't

Now you see Mt Duff…Now You Don’t

A Walk on the Wild Side

At the first clearing, we decided to go for a walk along the ridge of Ile Agakauitai that starts at the bay and wraps around to the lagoon.  Sweetie (our dinghy) has a long shaft outboard so we decided to take Leela’s dinghy with a much shallower draft. This would allow us to cross over the reef to get to the ridge.   Matt and Graham tied the dinghy to a tree and then pushed her away from the rocks.  Didn’t do much good as the tide brought her right back to the rocks, but what can you do?  We started off walking along a fairly flat area with protected pools of water. 

Ridge Walking

Ridge Walking

We came across these little inlets that I later learned from my European friends were called “tickles.”

Tickles

Tickles

There was this beautiful lava or rock table that had such great texture that it looked man-made.  But, no, it was embedded into the rock below.  Mother nature is an artist.

Awesome Lava Formations

Cool Lava Table Structures

Cool Lava Table Structures

As we turned left, around the corner leaving the bay, we started seeing a lot more pools of water.  These would range from 1’-6’ in depth.  It was really interesting to see the different growth in each pool – based on the amount of water coming in each one.

Pools of Water on the Ridge

Pools of Water on the Ridge

As we continued on our way along the ridge of Ile Agakauitai, we crossed over several lava formations.  We were told that lava would come up through a crack or fisher and create these formations that looked like roads to me.

Lava Road

Lava Road

The water in some of the pools was crystal clear.  In some of the photos (top two) you cannot even tell I am shooting through water.  The top right is a large crab saying “hello Christine” the middle is a landslide with a fallen tree and lots of rocks.

Beautiful Scenery on our Walk

Beautiful Scenery on our Walk

Yep, I win for best photo sequence

We found one fairly large pool that Matt decided to take a dip in.  I took this hysterical sequence of photos as he jumped in – I cannot believe I captured some of these! Matt starting out checking the depth, then assuming the position.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

Things start to fall apart as he loses his form and tries to break dance on the surface of the water.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

And he gets a 10 for style points, but a 2 for splash factor.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

Unfortunately, there were lots of goat heads on Ile Agakauitai.  Not sure where the rest of the body ends up…

New Hat Attire?

New Hat Attire?

Snorkeling

We were hiding from a strong easterly wind for several days.  On the first day, we went for a snorkel with a few friends from Leela (Graham and Janicki) and Yello (Daniela).  It was our first snorkel near Ile Agakauitai and it was really interesting  with shallow reefs and a good variety of fish. 

We anchored the dinghy in a little sandy patch and jumped in.  We swam over the large reef in about a ½ meter of water.  It was really cool to see the little fish, crabs, and sea creatures in the nooks and crannies of the reef.

Reef

Reef

I found this purple lipped clam that was sewn into a two-layer coral shelf with half of its body on the upper shelf and the half on the lower shelf.

INSERT PURPLE CLAM

As you continue to swim along the reef, you come across these large pockets or areas that dive 10-15 meters deep.  Here you will find the large napoleons, angels, and groupers.  There were several that were well over a meter in length.

Beautiful Purple Lipstick

Beautiful Purple Lipstick

Some large fish exploring us exploring them

Some large fish exploring us exploring them

Lots of large coral tables or shelves, not sure what they are called, but it looks like you could sit down to tea.  And they come in all sorts of colors. 

Beautiful Coral Tables

Beautiful Coral Tables

I tracked several fun looking fish.  I found these four dual colored fish.  Half their bodies were one color and the other half another.  Maybe juveniles?   And of course, a little puffer fish.

Underwater friends in Agakauitai

Underwater friends in Agakauitai

Cultural Performers

Cultural Easter Dance Exhibition

Twenty-one students from the local college (which is the equivalent of high school in the U.S.) were selected to perform at a competition in Hawaii.  They presented their cultural routine over dinner at the sports center.  We were excited to see what type of performance this would be as they are always different. Not just in dance routines and costumes, but in story-telling.  We had no idea what to expect.

It had been a particularly rainy day.  Buckets and buckets of water came pouring out of the sky throughout the day.  Our friends on Leela (Graham and Janicky) decided to brave the elements with us.  Matt and I were super lucky in that it was only drizzling on our way in.  We had our foulies (dry weather jackets) and dry bags and made a run for it and only get a few sprinkles.  But, 5 minutes later, our friends came in drenched.  Ugh.

After standing around for a little bit, we commandeered a table.  The boys went next door to buy dinner tickets and to wait for our food.  The parents of the performers were in charge of the BBQ which smelled divine. 

BBQ Dinner. Buying Tickets and Picking up

BBQ Dinner. Buying Tickets and Picking up

The boys came back with a steak and chicken combo that was accompanied by a pasta salad and bread fruit.  Way too much for the table, but we dug in!

The setting is really pretty with all-natural decorations.  The colorful plant leaves are placed into cut tree trunks that create the border around the stage area.  In the background are two constructed changing areas for the performers to change into their costumes.

Beautiful decor at the cultural dance

Beautiful decor at the cultural dance

The Story Begins

I had to make a lot of assumptions, since I do not speak Mangarevan and do not know the cultural significance of the dance.  I did ask a local friend of mine on some of the interpretation, but most of it is my assumption based on the dance moves throughout the story.  The biggest difference between this performance all of the other performances we have seen is that the dancers are extremely humble and solemn.  There is no great joy or passion or smiling faces.  They have a story to tell and were taught to tell it with respect and honor.

The musicians were setting up during dinner which included 5 sets of drums and a very loud aluminum drum.  The beat or rhythm was unlike anything we have ever heard and it reverberated throughout the sports center.

Performer Drummers

Performer Drummers

Covered in green leaves and topped with crowns, the kids started their story.  There are three students who are lead characters.  They all were semi-bent over as they raised their hands and swayed from side to side.  It was as if they were paying homage to someone or something. 

Performing the Cultural Dance

Performing the Cultural Dance

The kids ages range from 12-15 years old. It makes me wonder why the serious faces.

Performing the Cultural Dance

Performing the Cultural Dance

The boys knelt and hovered over the girls while raising their hands.  These are two of the leads that remained in front and were charged with the main story telling.

Two leads perform the main roles

Two leads perform the main roles

The female lead remained bent over for most of the beginning and then she started holding her tummy.  Hmmm, is she pregnant (in the story).  The male lead would walk her around gently and reverently as if showcasing his proud mom to be.

Communicating their story through dance

Communicating their story through dance

Preparing for the Baby

We did not know it at the time, but the next part of the story is preparing for the baby.  The girls all sat while the boys knelt down beside them.  First, they cleansed them with water by cupping water in their hands and slowly washing it over their arms and legs (top and middle left photos).  Next, they dusted their arms with mixture that looked like sand but I am sure it was something far more significant (bottom left photo).  The final part of the preparations was the cutting of the hair (lower right photo).

Preparing for the Baby

Preparing for the Baby

This is a photo of the cleansing water and ointment spread on the arms and legs of the women.

Holy Water and Special Dusting

Holy Water and Special Dusting

After the preparations were done, the lead girl was surrounded by her community while chanting was going on.  When she appeared next, her husband was carrying a baby.  He took the baby to an area where they cleansed and baptized it before presenting it to the community.

Boys Transition to Manhood

In Polynesian culture, at the age of 14, boys perform a series of tests before coming of age or transitioning into “manhood.”  Once they have completed their tasks or tests, they receive tattoos telling their stories.  The performers showed the older boys giving the younger boys a “traditional tattoo” using the tapping method.  After they receive their tattoo, the older boys apply oil and then perform a dance introducing them into the community as a man.  Then they all celebrate in dance.

Tattooing and Marking The Boys for Manhood

Tattooing and Marking The Boys for Manhood

I was able to capture this group photo before the event started.  I love the little baby in the lower right corner looking at the kids with awe.

Cultural Performers

Cultural Performers

It certainly was a unique experience.  I am sure it would have been far more powerful had I understood the language or known the story.  But even without that knowledge it was beautiful to see the cultural significance performed by the young people.