Tag Archives: french polynesia

Baie Onemea Anchorage off Taravai

What a Bay: Baie Onemea

We found a true paradise on the northern tip just off of Totegegie.  A consistent, soft, cool breeze, crystal clear blue waters, abundant fish, and deserted islands.  But it was time to leave.  Matt and I needed to position the boat for a “jump off” point to Hao which meant we had to leave.  We could have gone to a number of bays, but we decided to go to a very isolated bay called Baie Onemea located on the western side of Taravai.

Lucky for us, this was a bay that everyone wanted to see so our friends on Agape and Halcyon followed us over.  It was an easy journey as we followed our old tracks from Totegegie to Mangareva.  From there, we followed the Navionics chart and tracks from a boat called Pitufa which were remarkably accurate.

A beautiful manta ray swam by Sugar Shack as if to say “come, I’ll lead the way.” I wish the photos came out better.

Manta Rays swimming by Sugar Shack

Manta Rays swimming by Sugar Shack

Baie Onemea Anchorage

This is an exquisite bay!  It has two beautiful beaches with golden and reddish sand, a shallow reef with ample fish to entertain the curious human, and lush, green hillsides.

Baie Onemea Anchorage off Taravai

Baie Onemea Anchorage off Taravai

We spent several lazy days exploring what Mother Nature created here in Baie Onemea.  Lots of snorkeling, paddle boarding, swimming, fishing, coconut hunting, and boat yoga.

One day, Matt, Wilky, and I took our dinghy to the other side of the island to find Valerie and Herve.  We had hoped to get some fresh fruits and veggies for our upcoming passage.  However, they were not on island so we visited Marcel whose house sits down island.

We were able to procure 24 pomplemouse, a dozen oranges, a stalk of bananas, and two handfuls of lemons.  Not a bad score.  I found this beautiful, out of commission glass buoy (mooring).   They used to wrap them with line and use them to mark traps and pearl farms.  They’ve resorted to plastic now which is unfortunate.

Marcel's old fashion mooring

Baie Onemea Anchorage off Taravai

On The way back, we passed by Agakauitai which is guarded by a giant gorrilla MOAI.  It is said that he also guards the remains of several kings.  As you can see from the photos below, the coral reef is very shallow but it creates a breathtaking view from the dinghy.

Angakauitai with a large Gorilla MOAI

Angakauitai with a large Gorilla MOAI

Such a magical place.  It made it all the much sweeter sharing it with good friends.

Baie Onemea anchorage in all its beauty

Baie Onemea anchorage in all its beauty

Sugar Shack “See you Soon” Party

Parting is always difficult, but we are positive we will see our friends on Agape and Halcyon in a few months.  Whether it be in the Society or Tuamotu islands we don’t know.  I look forward to that day!

We had our “see you soon” dinner on Sugar Shack where John and Rachel captured some fun photos.  Top: me, Becca, Rianna (Rachel’s sister who was visiting, and Rachel.  Middle right: Josh, Rachel, Wilky, Rianna.  Bottom right: Andrew, Becca, John.

Sugar Shack's Going Away Celebration with Agape and Halcyon

Sugar Shack’s Going Away Celebration with Agape and Halcyon

Me and my sweetie!

Sugar Shack’s Going Away Celebration with Agape and Halcyon

The boys (Josh and Wilky) being silly

Love the wimsical side of these guys!

Love the wimsical side of these guys!

Taravai Celebrations

Taravai is an island of celebrations!  We had three separate birthday parties, lessons in making leighs and spearfishing, and day out on Sugar Shack.

SUNDAY BBQ & MATT’S BIRTHDAY

Every Sunday, Valerie and Herve host a BBQ for cruisers.  This Sunday was extra special as it was Matt’s birthday!  Valerie greeted Matt with a beautiful flower leigh, happy birthday music (on the radio) and provided a day full of fun activities including volleyball and bacchi ball.

We all brought side dishes, cold beverages, and desert to go with the goat and fish are hosts provided.

BBQ Celebrations

BBQ Celebrations

A birthday sing a long for Matt with some cookies and crepes.

Matt's Cinco de Mayo Celebrations

Matt’s Cinco de Mayo Celebrations

LEI LESSONS

The French Polynesian lei designs are a huge part of their culture and are passed on from generation to generation.  The women make floral leis, crowns, and costumes that they wear for festivals, dances, and weddings.  Valerie was kind enough to take the time to show us how to make our own leis.

Lei Making Day

Lei Making Day

The stunning flowers smelled amazing!

A DAY OUT ON SUGAR SHACK

Matt and I decided to invite everyone on board Sugar Shack for a day cruise to Mangareva.  Rachel’s sister was due to arrive and we all needed a little provisioning and some internetting.  We invited Agape, Halcyon and our island hosts Herve, Valerie and Ariki.  It was a fabulous day out with good friends!  We even spotted a few manta rays playing around the channel.

Sunday Funday on Sugar Shack

Sunday Funday on Sugar Shack

Herve took the boys out spear fishing several days which provided the bountiful feast for each of our celebrations!

Spear Fishing with Herve

Spear Fishing with Herve

In addition to the Matt’s birthday, we also celebrated Becca’s birthday and Rachel’s birthday.

Birthday Beauties

Birthday Beauties

Becca was blessed with 8-9 rainbows, we lost count.

Sugar Shack anchored at Taravai

Sugar Shack anchored at Taravai

We had a blast spending a week on Taravai, playing games, eating fresh, local food and celebrating birthdays!

Great Gathering of Friends

Great Gathering of Friends

One of the other cruisers is from Brittany (outside of France) and he has a crepe press on board.  He made fresh crepes for us with homemade caramel, chocolate and banana sauces.

Crepe lessons in Taravai

Crepe lessons in Taravai

Sugar Shack anchored at Taravai

The Beautiful Island of Taravai

Sugar Shack made its way to a new island called Taravai.  It is one of the few occupied islands in the Gambier archipelago.  Other cruisers mentioned that a nice couple who lives on this island hosts BBQs for cruisers – sweet!.  We left Mangareva  at the sun’s peak shining time to make our way toward Taravai.  It is best to make use of the sun in order to avoid the coral heads.  

The beautiful islands of Taravai

The beautiful islands of Taravai

Argo was already here and Agape and Halcyon were scheduled to arrive the next day.  We joined the Argo crew and headed to shore to meet 3 of the 7 island inhabitants.  True to the rumors, Valerie, Herve and their son Ariki were incredibly welcoming and overjoyed to have visitors.  They showed us around their large property where Herve grows tons of fresh fruits and vegetables.  Such as bananas, pomplemouse, oranges, lemons, lettuce, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, avocados, basil, rosemary to name a few.

A "Normal" Size Avocado in the Islands

A “Normal” Size Avocado in the Islands

The property is self-sustaining with a fresh water catching system and solar panels (2000 wats).  The family lives here with 3 pets that quickly etched their way into everyone’s hearts.  There is Sha Sha the cat, Taravai and little fluffy Roxy (pictured below with Matt).

Matt and little Roxy

Matt and little Roxy

Much to our surprise, there is one road on the island and it is only a mile long. However, it is beautiful as it stretches from Herve’s property past the church and ends at Marcel’s property.

The only road on Taravai

The only road on Taravai

HIKE AROUND TARAVAI

Valerie told us there about a trail that would take us to the other side of the island where Eduard and Lolo lived.  She said, it would take 30-60 minutes tops. However, we found out later that she had never been on the hike and did not “truly” know how long it should took.

Imagine our surprise when they laughed out loud upon our arrival.  Certainly we were perplexed.  We showed up in shorts, tank tops and flip flops.  Well, truth be told, Matt and I were the only ones in flips, the Argo clan had good walking shoes.  Evidently, the path is usually extremely muddy – which evidently turned out to be an understatement.

We passed the church (see below) and walked through Marcel’s property where he showed us the start of the trail.  He too looked at us all strange and smirked when he saw our shoes.  I’m thinking this can’t be good. After we crossed a small stream, we started through the bushes, hacking away limbs that blocked our path.  If you call it a path.  It was about 1-1.5’ wide, covered in mud, pine needles, and rocks.  We traversed across two mud slides, hopped over collapsed hillsides, jumped over holes and covered ourselves in mud.

Hiking Taravia

Hiking Taravia

This beautiful waterfall kept everything nice and moist, especially since it had just rained.

Little waterfall to cool us off

Little waterfall to cool us off

So close…yet so far away

Although the trail was hard to follow, we did manage to find our way to an isolated beach just in time to wash the mud off.

Beautiful beach found on our hike

Beautiful beach found on our hike

Somehow, we lost the “trail.”  We tried several different directions, but we just couldn’t find our way to Eduard and Lolo’s place.  Most options were too muddy or too dangerous.  We had been hiking for 90 minutes and decided to turn around.  As a result, we never made it all the way to Eduard’s house we had a great time exploring.

TARAVAI CHURCH

A beautiful and majestic church built in the 1800’s is being gently restored.  John is the caretaker and he happily shows all tourists around the church and rectory.  He even let us explore the spiral staircase to the bell station.

Taravai Church

Taravai Church

Rachel took this beautiful photo of her sister, Riana, Becca and I leaving.

Inside Taravai Church

Inside Taravai Church

At the anchorage you can see the church steeple lit up each morning.

Taravia Church from the ancorage

Taravia Church from the anchorage

Across from the church is significant archway made of stone and shells.  It welcomes visitors to the island and leads straight to the church.

Archway introducing the island

Archway introducing the island

VALERIE’S ART

Valerie has an amazing talent to create stunning, intricately detailed art with sand.  She has a wide variety of local sand in various colors and painstakingly designs masterpieces.  She creates unbelievable designs with her sand!

Valerie's Sand Artwork

Valerie’s Sand Artwork

Stay tuned for more adventures on Taravai with our new friends.

A few more fun photos

Roxy in all her glory

Roxy in all her glory

Herve, Valerie and Ariki's front yard

Herve, Valerie and Ariki’s front yard

Herve and Valerie's lush backyard

Herve and Valerie’s lush backyard

Certainly a gorgeous island to visit.  But more importantly, the inhabitants of Taravai make you feel like family.  As a result, cruisers come back again and again.