Tag Archives: fiberglass

Shattered Moonlight Hatch Frames

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We have lots and lots of windows on Sugar Shack.  Some are called “windows” and some are called “hatches.”  Windows typically do not open whereas a hatch opens.  Moonlight manufactures most of the hatches and many varieties of boats use them including us.

We have two escape hatches on our boat which we could use in the event of an emergency.  There is one on starboard in the master head (bathroom) and one on port in the forward cabin.  They provide excellent ventillation for the boat and are almost always open when we are not underway.  We love them!  

We also have 4 large hatches: (2) for the engine compartments and (2) for the bow lockers. These 6 Moonlight hatch frames come in multiple parts.  The top part of the frame is aluminum and holds the actual frame that opens and closes.  The bottom part of the frame is plastic and it is really just to cover the screws and make everything look pretty.

We have a total of 6 Moonlight hatch frames that are damaged, broken, cracked, and yellowed.  It has bothered Matt and I for years.  But, the replacement plastic frames are flimsy.  We have waited to find a better solution for replacing them and thought we had the perfect plan while we were at Norsand Boat yard.

We had hoped the yard could make a mold and build new ones out of fiberglass.  Unfortunately that did not work out.  It was going to take a really long time and cost close to a $1000NZD for just the two escape hatch frames.  So, we ended up buying all 6 Moonlight plastic frames from AB Marine for $1500USD (including shipping from Germany to NZ).

Moonlight Hatch Frames

The wear and tear on these plastic frames is very common.  We have met several other cruisers who have had similar problems with their frames.  I mean really, they are flimsy plastic and 23 years old after all.   Here is a photo of our old frame and the new frame (prior to cutting out the back).  This is the escape hatch in the master head.

The damage is extensive and none of the frames are salvageable.  Here are the escape hatches (inside).

The two frames on the bow hatches are almost completely gone – you can hardly see the plastic.  In fact on the top photo, Matt put wood in to avoid having the sails torn by the broken plastic and exposed screw heads.  But you can still see bits of the yellow plastic frame between the wood and the metal frame.

The sorry state of our bow peak Moonlight hatch frames.

The sorry state of our bow peak Moonlight hatch frames.

The two engine compartment hatch frames are not any better — either completely missing or shattered.

After posting these photos I realize how appalling their state truly is now!  How did we live with them like this for so long?

New Moonlight Hatch Frames

We ordered 6 Moonlight frames from AB Marine.  They safely packaged our very fragile frames and sent them to NZ for us.  We received them within 9 business days from Germany.  It was a rather large box.

We decided to see if we could strengthen the plastic frames prior to installing them.  Our hope was that we could fiberglass the back edges and insert foam in the empty spaces to create a more stable glueing platform.  However, after we removed the old frames we realized that only the starboard escape hatch has room for fiberglass. The port frame has no room – not even 1mm.  The two bow peaks can be fiberglassed but the two engine compartment hatches don’t have room either.

Top photo shows how tight the space is where the frame has to slip into (between the existing gray fiberglass and the gray metal).  The bottom photo shows the huge gaps that need a foam filler in addition to fiberglass around the frame.

Preparations

First the removal process begins.  Of course it is a messy job as the plastic crumbles easily.

Once the plastic is all removed we have to start taking off the 5200 super glue (or as Matt calls it the Devil’s glue) and the sealant.  It is a slow process…

Hatch surrounds are cleaned up.  Left photos with glue and right photos clean (hopefully you can tell without my description).

The (4) larger hatches are more difficult because we have to pick out the old plastic and old adhesive between the metal frame and the fiberglass.  We use picks, pudy knives, and exacto knives to get it all out.  

Fiberglassing the Frames

It is time to fiberglass (or glass as it is known in the industry) the 3 frames that have room to glass.  We bring 1 escape hatch frame and 2 bow peak frames into Norsand so Peter Palmer can glass them for us.  He is so sweet and did this over the holidays so we did not have to wait the 2 weeks for the yard to reopen after the Christmas holidays.  We only glassed the backside as we did not want it to show on the front side.

While Peter was glassing the three pieces, Matt filled in the starboard escape hatch frame so that it would provide better support.  The port escape hatch had already been filled in but the starboard one had huge gaps which left the frame unsupported.

Before we install, Matt had to cut the plastic frames to fit each area.  He started with the starboard engine hatch.  He measured, taped the frame, measured again, and then measured a third time just to be sure.  Then with an exacto knife he slowly cut the plastic frames.

The frames that have fiberglass had to be cut using an angle grinder at Norsand.  Once the fiberglass was done it made it nearly impossible to cut so we borrowed a protected room at the Norsand Boatyard and used an angle grinder to cut through the fiberglass.  It made a bit of a mess, but we got it done.

Ready to Install

Now that the frames and the surrounds are ready, we can start the install.  Here are a few photos of the larger hatches after the glue was removed and before the frames go in.  You can see the nasty screws that stick out.  It makes it really easy to hurt your head or shoulder and it opens it up for the possibility of damaging our sails and other items stored in these comparments.

Matt decided he did not want to use 5200 (the Devil’s glue) for the adhesion.  We spoke to several people at Norsand and decided to use Dow Dowsil 795 Structural Glazing Sealant with a few spots of 5200 to adhere the frames to the surrounds.  This will make it substantially easier to remove them in the future.  He loads the frames and surrounds with glue and then we carefully raise the frames into place before taping and locking them in.

We leave large clamps and tape on for 24 hours.  Then we remove the clamps and leave the tape on for another 48 hours.  Just to ensure it has plenty of time to dry and set.

The finished and installed frame looking gorgeous!

Now, just 5 more to go….

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This particular blog post occured over the 2023-2024 holiday break.  In our last blog we update a few more canvas pieces including new window covers and sun shades.

Rudder Rebuild: The Rudder Part II

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In Part I of our Rudder Rebuild 1, we walk you through the steps we took to custom design our new rudder posts.  Now we are ready to custom design each rudder blade.  The shafts had to be completed before we began the design process on the blades. 

Both of our rudders were removed immediately after being hauled out.  We were on the trailer and still dripping with water, but they had to come out now while we could raise the boat high enough to get them out of their casings. 

It is pretty clear that the temporary rudder and our standard one are very different shapes, but the surface measurement is about the same.  The borrowed rudder came off a bigger Catana 50, same manufacturer but very different blades.

The one on the left was borrowed from Norsand and the one on the right is our original 23 year old rudder.

Rudder Casing  is Compromised

After we removed the rudders we stuck our heads below the hole and looked up with a flash light.  To our horror we found a few issues with the rudder casing.  One there is a slight crack at the entrance and two there is a bump inside that was rubbing on the rudder post.  Lucky for us, both are fairly easy repairs.

Peter, the expert glassman and rudder specialist, comes over to help us remove the bearing and do the repairs. The bearing proved to be a bit of a challenge as it did not want to come out.  They get a massive sledge hammer and attack it from the top and bottom.  Once it is out, we sand down the blister, fill and paint it before installing the new bearing and case.  It all sounds simple enough but it took them several hours to complete this project.

As you can see the bearing case (lower two photos) was in need of replacement and lucky for us we had a spare on board.  Evidently, it was not considered “horrible” and still functional but we replaced it anyway.

Getting Started on the Rudders

We hand over our old rudder and the two new shafts.  The foam is cut and patterned to fit our new shafts and tines.  As you can see, the rudder posts and tines support the blade a lot better than our original ones which stopped before the center of the rudder.  Weights are put on the foam to ensure it all sticks together.

We are not on site to watch the exact process so I may be missing steps.  Once the foam is sealed and molded they apply fiber glass.  The rudder on the left is done and the one on the right is in process.

Norsand Takes Over 

Once the fiberglass work is done, they are sanded down.  Then we make the executive decision to apply the Hemple barrier coat instead of the Interprotect barrier coat.  Why did we use a different barrier coat on the rudders than on the bottom of the boat?  The primary reason was we didn’t want to wait 2 weeks for the Interprotect to off gas.  So we used Hemple and dealt with the difficult application process.

The Hemple barrier coat was having a hard time curing which meant they could not sand the peaks and valleys.  We were delayed by 5 days waiting for the paint to cure, sand, tweak, sand, tweak and sand again before the rudders were handed back to us to have Norsand apply the coppercoat.

Norsand quickly covers the rudders in coppercoat repeating the same process as on the bottom paint. 

Once the coppercoat is dry, they sand the rudders to activate the coppercoat.  Then it is time to fit them.

Does the Shoe Fit?

Must admit that there is a little anxiety about the rudders fitting properly.  We were confident the builder knew what he was doing and did it perfectly, but there is a little niggle in the back of our minds.  We knew they were made much stronger and safer than our previously rudders that were factory made and lasted 23 years.  But it is hard to relax until they are fitted.

The yard has to raise us on the trailer in order for us to be high enough to insert the rudders into their shaft/casing.

Peter, Tony and Kevin are on hand to help us install the rudders.  Matt is inside the engine compartment inserting the bolt (bottom right photos) while Peter and Tony insert the shaft.  It is a perfect fit on port.

Starboard needs a little bigger spacer which we can easily make with help from Rob at RH Precision.  What a relief to have two stronger, well crafted rudders back on the boat!

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog posts occured during over 2 weeks in November.  Did you see how we custom designed our rudder posts in part I?

Raiatea Carenage: Fiberglass Repair

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Raiatea Carenage has a well-known reputation for good fiberglass work.  Fiberglass work is tricky as you have to ensure you don’t compromise the integrity of the boat (our hull).  Plus, you want it to be visually pleasing.  Try matching 20-year-old gel coat!

We stopped by the yard a week before our haul out date.  The owner, Dominique wanted to see the damage to determine the amount of work it would require.   The dent occurred in Hao during a torrential storm (see “Disaster Strikes Maramu” blog post).  The dent and scratches are about 1.5 meters long, 1 meter tall, and 20-30 cm deep.  It does not penetrate through and there is no hole!  Thank goodness!

The work began bright and early on Tuesday morning.  First the owner, Dominique and his worker, Teina tapped the boat.  They are looking for the bulk head and any possible delamination.

Dominique and Tiana

Dominique and Tiana

Then the heart wrenching act of taking a grinder to your boat!  It is horrible to watch someone grind away the gel coat and fiberglass, but it has to be done. 

Grinding down the fiberglass

Grinding down the fiberglass

Layering the fiberglass

Next, Teina mixes the resign and hardener to make epoxy.  It’s all art and science.

Starting with small pieces of fiberglass, Teina places it in the center of the area (the deepest section). He layers concentric circles to spread the load.  More and more layers, each one gradually bigger than the last.  Matt was impressed with the number of layers of fiberglass.  He assumed they’d put 4-5 layers but instead they put 12-13 layers.

Layering the fiberglass

Layering the fiberglass

Then he sands it down to ensure it is level with the rest of the boat.

Then the hard part begins.  Trying to color match 20-year-old gel coat.  Poor thing, tried 5/6 mixes before telling me “no good.”  He walked away to make more mix.  Try and try again. I think no matter how close you get; it will still look like a patch. The unfortunate thing is that it is right next to a previous patch from an incident that occurred in Trinidad many moons ago.  Can you tell the difference between the two whites in the photo below?

Gel coat application

Gel coat application

A light sand, more gel coat, light sand more gel coat.  Constantly trying to match the 20-year-old color.  It is artwork, truly. You can see (1st photo) the repair). the 2nd photo shows color disparity, the rest show them trying to fix with gel coat.

Perfecting the Work

They worked on it for several days.  Ensuring the small dents and scratches were filled in, the entire surface smooth, and the color matches as closely as possible.  They worked tirelessly perfecting it each time.

Teina is wet sanding and smoothing the surface, then more gel coat.  I swear this man is so patient and persistent!

Usually the new paint absorbs the UV differently than the old paint.  But for now it looks pretty darn good.

Protecting the Shack

They needed to paint the monohull in front of us so we watched them resurrect a huge tarp to protect Sugar Shack.   It was so funny! They tied one end to the giant ferry to our right (the Aremiti) and then they tied the other end to the fork lift and raised it up to cover our boat.

A huge dinghy pulled in to get serviced and she was almost as big and certainly way more expensive than our boat.

Out for a Walk

There is not much to do on the yard when you have workers all over the boat. I can write the blog and we can do small projects (like the prop work, lazy jacks), but for the most part we are antsy.  We go for walks, but there is nothing around the yard.  The closest magasin (market) is over a mile away.  But we head there anyway because why not?  We did pass this beautiful little church on the way.  Look at the pretty green mountains in the background.

Prop Work

Matt worked on the props while the yard was working on the fiberglass work.  We needed to remove all the barnacles and growth from the props and change the zincs.  So much easier to do this on the hard than in the water. (See blog post “Underwater Mechanic”)

He changed the small zincs on both props and we are good to go for several more months!

Mast head Work

Matt wanted to do three things at the top of the mast. 

  1. Tighten and adjust the windex
  2. Test the AIS antenna which was acting weird
  3. Measure the top lazy jack line that is frayed

We set up the climbing harness and a safety line and up he goes.  It took 5 trips up the 20 meter mast.  Keep in mind that the boat is about 8 meters off the ground so he is really, really high up.

He was able to fix the windex, tried several tests on the AIS antenna and measured the lazy jacks. 

It took Matt a day and a half to recreate our lazy jacks that had frayed.  Originally he was only going to do the top portion, but he ended up replacing all of them.  Mission complete!  The lazy jacks hold the sail bag which holds the main sail.

This and That

We are usually up early to catch the sunrise.  It is pretty even when you are at the yard.

Check in on our next blog (part III) as we do a full wash/wax job and get new bottom paint.  If you missed part I of this series, check out “Raiatea Carenage Haul Out.”

The events of this blog post occurred on 15 September 2020.  The blog post are 4-6 weeks behind our adventures.