Tag Archives: curacao

Curacao on Foot

Another cruise ship came into Willemstad so we decided to explore on foot and rent a car for tomorrow.  We headed back to Fisherman’s harbor, tied off the dinghy, hopped on the bus, and arrived in Punda around 10am.  Our goal was to explore Otrobanda and Pietermaai since we did not get a chance to see these areas yesterday.  We headed to the Pietermaai district which is considered the “SoHo” of Curacao.  It has a lively environment and rich history with small shops, bars, restaurants, hotels and pretty architecture that creates a lively and cozy neighborhood.

Map of Pietermaai district that would have been helpful to have on our walk - we did not do this entire path, but made up our own.

Map of Pietermaai district that would have been helpful to have on our walk – we did not do this entire path, but made up our own.

Cool art mural found on our Peitermaai walk.

Cool art mural found on our Peitermaai walk.

These houses are used in all Pietermaai marketing.

These houses are used in all Pietermaai marketing.

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Little. rustic cafe hidden on a small street with a covered patio.

Little. rustic cafe hidden on a small street with a covered patio.

Love this bench! If we lived in our house, this would be on our deck.

Love this bench! If we lived in our house, this would be on our deck.

Matt enjoying an ocean breeze after our long, hot walk.

Matt enjoying an ocean breeze after our long, hot walk.

Art sculpture as we were leaving Pietermaai.

Art sculpture as we were leaving Pietermaai.

Although we did not walk around the entire district, we had worked up a sweat and decided to eat at Plein Café Wilhelmina which looked like a fun, lively little place with wifi and a cool breeze.  We ordered a couple of panini’s, some beer, and a typical drink from Curacao.

Curacao drink that looks like the ocean waters.

Curacao drink that looks like the ocean waters.

Now that we were rested, fed, and cooled off a bit, we headed to Otrobanda.  I heard that there was a walking tour and several streets with cool architecture but we just could not find it.  We walked and walked and walked and found ourselves in areas that were not very photo worthy.  Bit of a disappointment but it could easily have been the fact that we did not have a map and might not have been in the right area of Otrobanda.  Before we left town, we did snap a silly photo with some pretty art.


We hopped back on 6A back to Caracasbaai and decided to take the bus to the end which was only 3 bus stops passed ours.  At the end of the route are two high-end beach clubs – the Jan Thiel Beach Club with 4 bars/restaurants and Papagayo Beach Club which is a trendy, upscale resort.  We had heard that the beaches on this side were man-made, but they were still very beautiful. There are also car rentals, boutique shops, and a nice supermarket, Van Der Tweel (it was a lot smaller than the one we found in Bonaire, but equally as nice).  We walked the entire shoreline and scoped out our favorite fancy bar, Zanzibar which offered beer for $7 (we normally pay $2-3), a pretty view, gorgeous beach, and super beautiful atmosphere.

Papagayo Beach Resort.

Papagayo Beach Resort.

Papagayo Beach Resort

Papagayo Beach Resort

Zanzibar Beach Resort.

Zanzibar Beach Resort.

Exploring Willemstad

We piled into Sweet N Low and headed to Fisherman’s Harbor where we could tie up for free, drop our trash, and find a bus into town.  Spanish Waters is about 25-35 minutes away from Willemstad where we must do our formalities.  We had a “general” idea of where each of the 3 places were, but no map and no idea which bus to take to get us there.  A great opportunity to talk to the locals.  We easily found the dinghy dock, dropped our trash, and were told where to find the bus stop.  A short walk and 10 minutes later, a large tour like bus (with 6A Carracasbaai) arrived, opened the doors and I peered in.  Do you go to Willemstad?  Yes, we do.  Great, we paid $1 each and got back some guilders (Dutch currency which has an exchange rate of about 1.7 to $1) and enjoyed the ride.  Since Wayne had checked out some online maps he led the way to our first stop. Customs.

We did a little site seeing on the way since we are in the capital Willemstad, which is a twin city with Punda on the east and Otrobanda (means other side) on the west.  Punda is the oldest part of Willemstad and is a unique mixture of Dutch and Caribbean influences.  Centuries of Dutch rule, slave trade and commerce come alive when you pass through the streets here.  The heart of Punda is geared toward the tourists and is formed by broad shopping areas with mazes upon mazes of streets filled with shops and small eateries with loads of local vendors selling their wares all over the place.  Reminded me a bit like downtown LA or maybe the cleaner side of Tijuana.  We quickly came across the floating market which sells fresh fruits, vegetables and fish.  This is one of the best produce markets we have encountered.  Venezuelan’s and Columbian’s load up their fishing boats with fresh produce and vegetables (that are not available and do not grow on Curacao) from their home country and come to Punda to sell them to locals and tourists.  They stay in Curacao for 2 months, go back to their home country for 2 months and return again.  They rotate so that there are always boats of food available in Curacao.

Rows of Stands: Fruit & Veggie Market

Rows of Stands: Fruit & Veggie Market

Mouthwatering-YUMMINESS!!

Mouthwatering-YUMMINESS!!

The back of the floating market at Punda.

The back of the floating market at Punda.

They also have a fresh fish floating market every morning. Certainly, a place we will come to often!

Fish market-one of many boats

After a wrong turn or two and help from a security guard, we found Duane (aka customs).  Normally, Matt goes in alone to clear the boat and crew into a new island (as customary in most countries).  However, in Bonaire and Curacao they require everyone to come to shore.  Customs was pretty straight forward and easy.  Next, we needed to find immigration which we knew was in Otrobanda.  So, we headed to the famous Queen Emma floating pontoon bridge that connects Punda to Otrobanda.  The floating pontoon bridge is made up of 16 floating pontoons and swings open frequently to allow boat traffic through, even while there are people on the bridge.  From 1901 to 1934, people had to pay a toll (of 2 cents) to cross the bridge if they wore shoes.  So, the wealthy took their shoes off and the poor borrowed shoes to maintain a sense of pride.

Floating pontoon bridge, Queen Emma.

Floating pontoon bridge, Queen Emma.

Mural of the floating pontoon bridge.

Mural of the floating pontoon bridge.

But as we approached the area, there was no bridge, what?  We noticed ferries were running so we looked across to Otrobanda and saw that the floating bridge was tied up to the side of the wall – must mean a large ship is coming through. So, we hopped on the ferry to get to Otrobanda.   Once across the other side, we made several wrong turns, asked many locals for directions, were sent to immigration, but not for incoming yachts and got a bit turned around.  We eventually found a security guard at the entrance to an industrial dock who took Matt’s passport, jotted some info down, handed us a piece of paper and allowed us through.  Hmph!  Well, we walked on in, walked down a long industrial dock until we came upon a building that looked like a photo we had seen online.  Success, we found immigration.  After we completed that paperwork, we went upstairs to port authority which was in a narrow and cramped hallway, maybe 4’ wide by 15’ deep and it already had 3 people waiting.  So, we waited, and waited.  Luckily it was air conditioned and the lady was really nice.  But she did have to educate us on anchorages.  Evidently, we cannot move from our current anchorage in area B to the any other area A, C, or D without coming back to alert port authority, paying 10 Naf ($5).  What?  Why does it matter if we move around the same bay?  But at this point we were so tired, we did not want to make a stink or cause any more delays.  She then informed us that if we wanted to go to any of the other island anchorages (Fuik Baai, Piscadera Bay, Santa Martha, or Santa Cruz), we had to come back to port authority (PA) and tell them our schedule.  We could only stay 3 days at each anchorage and it costs 10 Naf per anchorage.  Wow, they don’t make it easy to be a boater here.  But, either way, we were cleared in after 4 hours.

Spanish Waters anchorage.

Spanish Waters anchorage.

Anchorage areas, A, B, C, D located in Spanish Waters. Would have been helpful to have the GPS coordinates while anchoring.

Anchorage areas, A, B, C, D located in Spanish Waters. Would have been helpful to have the GPS coordinates while anchoring.

Giant metal art sculpture in the heart of Punda.

Giant metal art sculpture in the heart of Punda.

View of Otrobanda from Punda.

View of Otrobanda from Punda.

Cool heart sculpture where you place a lock for love.

Cool heart sculpture where you place a lock for love.

We were starving so we grabbed lunch at a Latin fusion restaurant called Kriollomania.  We ordered a mixed grill for 2 people which had 2 pork chops, 2 sausages, a huge pile of chicken, huge pile of beef, rice, and french fries.  I mean who can eat all of that?  It was pretty tasty but we had to move on as we had a tour booked.  We headed to the Maritime Museum where we met our tour group and then proceeded down to the ferry dock to start our harbor tour.  Our tour guide gave us a lot of great educational information about the history of the harbor.

Fort Nassau is an old fort that has been turned into a restaurant situated high upon a hill at the harbor entrance giving its diners a 360-degree view of Punda and Otrobanda.

Fort Nassau up on a cliff.

Fort Nassau up on a cliff.

Busy industrial harbor bringing in a lot of revenue for the government.

Busy industrial harbor bringing in a lot of revenue for the government.

Giant sign / art that make for great photos.

Giant sign / art that make for great photos.

I tried to sit on the "H" but could not get up so I settled for the "U". Dushi means "sweet"

I tried to sit on the “H” but could not get up so I settled for the “U”. Dushi means “sweet”

After a long day ashore, we caught the bus back to Caracas Baai (6A) and decided we earned a well-deserved cold beverage at the Pirate’s Nest which could easily be a place we frequent often!

Pirate's Nest

Pirate’s Nest

Butler pirate offering a 3 course meal for $34

Butler pirate offering a 3 course meal for $34

Sleeping pirate awaiting an attack from the fish below.

Sleeping pirate awaiting an attack from the fish below.

Suave pirate trying to take over for Johnny Depp.

Suave pirate trying to take over for Johnny Depp.

Only happy pirates at the Pirate's Nest.

Only happy pirates at the Pirate’s Nest.

Sea Sick Sailor?

Yep, I am prone to sea sickness and I live on a boat.  Usually, 95% of the time, I am fine and can prevent it from coming on, but sometimes I don’t think, act too confident, and just mess up.  Shall I back up?

Wayne, Matt and I pulled off our mooring early Tuesday morning to head to Curacao which had a pretty good weather window.  It had been blowing stink for the last few days and Tuesday was the first day the winds calmed down to 20 kn (from 30 kn).  The seas were 1.5-2 meters in 5-6 second intervals (meaning they were coming at us frequently).  They hit the boat on the beam and stern a sort of swirly wave that rocked the boat an odd way.  All was good for the first 90 minutes until I decided I wanted to bake brownies and prep the ingredients for my upside-down cheesecake.  Not sure what I was thinking (Oh, right, I wasn’t!)

First, I should have taken a meclizine to start the day, just in case, nice preventative measure.  If there is bad weather, I usually take one in the morning before departing.  If we are going to do a passage with several overnights, I will actually wear the patch.

Second, I should have stayed at the port helm where I was getting a great breeze, could see the horizon, and felt fine.  But, I wanted to bake some yumminess, didn’t feel bad at the time, and thought it would be fun.  So, inside I went where there was no breeze, hot, and rolly.

I didn’t actually get “sick” but I sure as heck did not feel well.  I managed to make the brownies and crush the vanilla wafers for the crust of my cheesecake before I decided to sleep it off.  Yeah, I love that my body knows how to make me feel better – a quick nap did the trick.

But, this left the boys to navigate and manage the double reefed sails on their own – which is fine as they love to do that anyway.  We made it safely to Curacao, took us about 6 hours to sail the 40 nautical miles.  We had never been to Spanish Waters and the channel into this anchorage is peppered with reefs.  Luckily our charts helped us navigate.  This anchorage is split into 4 areas: A, B, C, and D.  We read that A and B are the best areas as they have good holding, a solid breeze, and are close to marina’s.

Anchorage areas outlined in Spanish Waters.

Anchorage areas outlined in Spanish Waters.

We could not tell where each area started and ended as the GPS coordinates were on my computer and not accessible without internet. We tried anchoring in several places but the screwy winds had us blowing too close to other boats.  We found a few places that looked good but the holding was not good.  So, after 6-7 attempts, we were frustrated, hot, and really wanting to just call it a day.  Luckily, we found a good spot, in 7 meters of water (not too deep), not near any other boats, with good holding. Yeah!  This entire anchoring process took several hours so once we landed the hook, we had a beer and rested a bit.  Since it was too late to catch the bus to go into town for formalities, we decided to dinghy around two of the three marinas to get our bearing, then have dinner and play a game of cards.

Sugar Shack on the border of area B in Spanish Waters

Sugar Shack on the border of area B in Spanish Waters