Tag Archives: coral gardens

Drift Snorkel and a Rhumerie

Our friends Mark and Isabel on Jolly Dogs have been hanging out with us near Taha’a.  This is their first time here so we decided to show them the coral gardens and the local rhumerie.  Isabel and I did the drift snorkel three times while Matt flew the drone.

Coral Gardens Drift Snorkel

The coral gardens are the most renowned snorkeling spots in the Society islands.  It is crystal clear, turquoise waters gently running from the Pacific Ocean to the Taha’a/Raiatea lagoon.  It is also called a “false pass” because water can get in and out but boats cannot due to the shallow nature.  In some places the gardens are only 1-2” above the coral while other places you can easily float by.  The current generally comes from the Pacific and pushes out toward the lagoon allowing tourists to drift snorkel over the coral gardens.

Matt took these photos with the drone.  The first photo is facing the Pacific and Bora Bora.  The second photo is the opposite direction facing the lagoon.  The bottom photo shows my friend Isabel and I walking to the end of the motu.

Here are some more drone shots.  The top is closer to the lagoon showcasing the Taha’a Resort.  The bottom photo shows Isabel and I drifting down the gardens.

Lots of amazing sea life.  My favorites are the clown fish and puffers.  I’ve written a lot of posts about the Coral Gardens so be sure to read those as well.  Use the search function on the blog by typing “coral gardens.”

These drone shots give you the entire picture of the drift snorkel.  First, you walk toward the pacific on Ilot Mahararae (top photo), then you drift down the gardens (2nd photo), then you walk out and repeat (bottom photo).  Isabel and I are in each of the 3 photos – can you find us?

Mana’o Tahiti – Rhumerie

After our snorkel we moved the big boats to Baie Tapuamu which is directly across from Ilot Tautau.  It is Mar’s birthday and he wanted to celebrate at the rhumerie.  The Mana’o Tahiti Rhumerie is a small wood structure that was built about a year ago.  It is super cute and quaint.   I love their mask sign.

Anaise started us off with a sugar cane tasting.  Who doesn’t like sucking on sugar cane?  As we were enjoying our sugar cane, she told us that Taha’a has 12 different types of sugar cane on the island.  They distill each variety separately then blend them together to make their rhum (yes it has an “h” in it as it is different than rum).  All of their rhum is agriculture rhum and made with pure sugar cane, not molasses.  Which, in my opinion is not nearly as tasty. 

Behind the rhumerie they have 7 of the 12 sugar cane for viewing.  It was really cool to see the difference in color of the stock, shape of the stock and growth of the stock.

Wine, Rhum, and Beer Tasting

We sampled the white wine next which was very dry, but ok.  I really wanted to try the rose and Mark wanted to try the red, but they would only open on bottle of wine for sampling 🙁

Next we moved on to the rhum tasting.  Afterall we are at a rhumerie and need to taste the rhum.  They have a white rhum and a dark rhum.  The white rhum was very harsh and difficult to consume.  The dark rhum is aged for one year in an oak barrel which gives it the brown color.  Both rhums are organic and received the first ever “organic rhum” rating in the world.

The sugar cane is grown, picked and distilled in Taha’a.  But the fermentation and bottling process happens in Tahiti.

The last sampling was of their local craft beer.  They had blanch, blonde, amber, and triple.  We tried the blanche and amber were pleasantly surprised.  Not bad for 380 xpf per bottle.

After a quick trip to the boat we headed to Jolly Dogs for a birthday dinner.  I made a chocolate cake, homemade mango salsa, and fresh lemon cubes (mojitos).  Even the sun was celebrating Mark’s birthday with a gorgeous shot.

Maupiti to Ilot Tautau (Taha’a)

It was really hard to leave Maupiti, but we needed to start making our way toward Raitea.  We had a great weather window toward Taha’a (Ilot Tautau) which is in the same lagoon as Raiatea.  The day before, we moved to the Maupiti pass anchorage to swim with the manta rays one more time and position ourselves for a quick exit.  On the day of our departure, we had North Easterly winds which were perfect for our short trip.  Up at dawn gave us a beautiful sunrise.

It is only 42nm from Maupiti to Taha’a/Raiatea which is about 8.5 hours.  We left at 0600 to exit the pass in “good conditions.”  We had 2.5 kts of outgoing current which helped us along.  Nice for us as we were exiting, but would be challenging for someone wanting to come into the lagoon.  You can see the large waves breaking on the reef on either side of the red and green markers.

We had a consistent breeze, small swell and pretty skies.  It was an ideal trip that took us 6.5 hours with an average of 6kts.  We arrived at one of our favorite anchorages and dropped the hook in 2 meters of stunning water.  You can see to the bottom and all the way across to the Bora Bora caldera.

Ilot TauTau (Taha’a Resort Island)

We anchored in our favorite spot which is near the Ilot Tautau where the Taha’a Resort is located.  We drop the hook in 2 meters of sandy water and get a beautiful view of the sunset behind Bora Bora.

A few calm days allowed Matt to explore on the SUP.  He left at sunrise and tried to go all the way around Ilot Tautau but the waters got to shallow (2-3”)

Day Run to Raiatea

We made a day trip to Raiatea Carenage.  We will be hauling the boat out to do some work soon and the owner needed to evaluate some fiberglass work.  So, we motored 2 hours from Taha’a to Raiatea.  The owner Dominique said he needed a few hours before we meet so we went to find lunch.  There is nothing around Raitea Carenage except another yard called CNI.  Neither place had a magasin or restaurant.  So, we went to Marina Apooiti where they have several charter companies (Sunsail, Moorings, and Tahiti Charter).  Surely they will have an eatery. 

Lucky for us, they had one restaurant called La Voile d’Or.  There were no customers when we arrived at 1200. We sat down ordered drinks and perused the menu.  Matt’s beer arrived luke warm and he was not pleased.  At 780xpf per bottle it should be ice cold, but nope.  The lunch prices were extremely expensive and they were out of Mahi. So, we finished our drinks and left.  Too bad as it is a really cute place with pretty ambiance.

On the way back we were able to motor sail part of the way and made it back in 1:45. All in all not a bad day trip and we received confirmation that the yard can do the fiberglass repair.

Back to Ilot Tautau to enjoy another gorgeous sunset.

The events on this post occurred in early September 2020.  Blog posts run about 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

Ilot Moute

Exclusively Taha’a – La Pirogue

Taha’a is full of sorts of hidden treasures and gems.  In this blog we will take you on our journey of the coral gardens drift snorkel and we will explore a small, private hotel called La Pirogue on Ilot Moute.  We swim in crystal clear waters and I get attached by a sea cucumber.

Among many other riches, Taha’a is famous for their coral gardens.  We have had the extreme joy of swimming the coral gardens several times.  We just can’t get enough of the unique beauty.  Our friends on Agape did not have a chance to drift the gardens so we encouraged them to try again.  We each left Bora Bora with a heading toward Taha’a and met at the Coral Gardens anchorage.

The current was pretty strong when we arrived in the morning.  We tied up our dinghies, swam to shore and walked the beach to the reef.  We waited for the tour groups to get started before we jumped in. The current is strongest closest to the reef so you have to maneuver yourself quickly to avoid hitting the corals.  In order to get photos, you have to gently grab a piece of dead coral to hold on while taking your photo.  It can be tricky but exhilarating.

We found lots of sea anemones with little fish including a clown fish.  It is fascinating watching the symbiotic relationship between the fish and the coral.  The fish get cleaned by the sea anemone and in return the fish protect them.

Sea life at coral gardens

Sea life at coral gardens

We also found a little octopus, but he would not come out and pose for the camera.  The top picture is his head sticking out, the middle shows him hidden from us with just his eyes and one leg showing.  The bottom photo is a giant sea cucumber

Octopus at Coral Gardens

Octopus at Coral Gardens

Rachel took some great photos with her fancy GoPro:

Coral Gardens Taha'a

Coral Gardens Taha’a

Beautiful corals in Taha'a

Beautiful corals in Taha’a

The colors on the corals are so vibrant and pure.

More beautiful corals at Coral Gardens

More beautiful corals at Coral Gardens

Sushi and Wahoo for Dinner

Agape (Josh, Rachel and Nicola) came over for dinner.  Rachel caught a tuna and made sushi rolls and then seared the Wahoo that we caught with John, Missy, and Carl.  We had a pretty sunset and a full moon.

Sunset at Taha'a

Sunset at Taha’a

Locals were burning trash on shore which always looks horrible from the anchorage (top picture).  But, the full moon came to brighten the night.

Taha'a

Taha’a

Ilot Moute and La Pirogue

Nicola has a flight out of Tahiti in a few days so our friends needed to get going.  The next day they headed out of the pass and were met with severe weather on the nose.  Not willing to put up with the boat bashing and slow slog, they met us at a new anchorage on the Northeast side of Taha’a.  This will be a good launching point for both of us to leave towards Tahiti and Huahine.  Another cruiser had told Matt about a little island called ilot Moute with a teeny tiny hotel called La Pirogue.

Ilot Moute

Ilot Moute

La Pirogue is situated on an island surrounded by jade waters.  It houses 4 bungalows and can accommodate 8 guests at a time.  The owners live on a boat moored in front of the hotel.  Cecile runs the day to day operations along with her husband and a maid.  Cecile was kind enough to let us come onshore and partake in some libations.

Approaching La Pirogue from the anchorage.  Don’t you love their welcome sign?

La Pirogue

La Pirogue

It is a quaint and peaceful setting, with thatched roof, raked sand, comfortable seating areas.  Their weather station warms my heart.  Life is so simple here.

La Pirogue

La Pirogue

Gross Surprise!

It was pretty hot, so I soaked my feet in the clear blue water.  I was running my feet along the sand when I unburied something. A rock, piece of coral, wood or treasure?  No!  A sea cucumber who was so agitated from my rubbing that he launched his defense mechanism.  What do you ask is that?  He spits out his guts and intestines.  White, noodle things. By the time I realized what was happening they were wrapped around my toes.  I was horrified!  Rachel came and helped me out, but YUCK!  I can’t look at sea cucumbers the samw way and just did not want to touch them anymore.  After a dip in the waters, Rachel rinsed off under the coconut shower head.

Coconut Shower at La Pirogue

Coconut Shower at La Pirogue

We so enjoyed our time at La Pirogue.

La Pirogue Celebrations

La Pirogue Celebrations

We Celebrate Josh’s Birthday

The next day was Josh’s birthday!  We all went back to La Pirogue to park our dinghies.  Cecile had mentioned good snorkeling by the reef and we wanted to see it.  You could either walk in 2’ of water through the sea cucumber field or swim it.  Since my sea cucumber attack, I was hesitant to go anywhere near them, yet they were everywhere.  Thank goodness the corals were amazing or I would have climbed back on shore.

The corals were healthy and vibrant.  All inviting you to come closer and take a look at their little community.

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We found several Christmas trees nestled in the coral along with many gorgeous lipstick colored clams.  Check out this lizard fish sitting on top of the coral head.

Snorkeling near Ilot Moute

Snorkeling near Ilot Moute

After a great snorkel, we headed to another islet.  Matt and I explored this small islet the day before when it was packed with locals.  It has a cement slab and rebar arches and that is about it.  But, it was pretty darn cool to hang out on the rocks in the middle of the ocean.

Agape invited us over to celebrate Josh’s birthday.  Rachel made a really tasty turkey dinner and confetti cake with lemon frosting.  Happiest of Birthday’s Josh!

Josh's Birthday

Josh’s Birthday