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Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Valdivia Serene Beauty

It was such a relief to reach our destination.  Mainly because the point of sail we were on sucks!  Heading into the wind and current and bashing through the seas is just no fun at all.  We traveled 5-6nm  up the river to Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla.  It was breathtaking!

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla is located right next to Alwoplast which is a pretty famous boat building location for Chris White Yachts.  We had originally planned on staying at Alwoplast because we were hoping to haul the boat out for a survey.  However, we could not find any qualified surveyors in the continent.  We convinced a Brazilian surveyor to come, but he cancelled 1 week before the haul out due to illness.  Huge long, boring story but we need a new survey to obtain insurance.  Couldn’t get the survey so on to plan B.  Another time.

Alwoplast in Valdivia, Chile

Alwoplast in Valdivia, Chile

Club de Yates – Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates has two floating docks, hot showers, laundry, electricity, water, and a good wifi.  It is really small but fits our needs perfectly.  At a cost of 24,500 pesos per day ($38 USD) it was an offer we could not refuse.  The staff is extremely helpful, the bus stops right in front of the marina, and it is incredibly peaceful.

Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla docks

Club de Yates, Marina Estancilla docks

This beautiful, colorgul bird can be found in the field of the marina – do you know what it is?

Chilean Bird

Chilean Bird

We washed the boat down, took extremely hot showers and headed into town.  We were not sure which bus to take so we just hopped on the first bus heading in the right direction.  It cost about 650 pesos per person, one way.  We passed the Kuntsmann Brewery, crossed a bridge, passed through a small town with lots of eateries, crossed another bridge and arrived in the heart of Valdivia 10 minutes later.  (Follow the red squiggly line from the marina to downtown Valdivia).  The red line below starts at the lower left corner and shows you the route to downtown.

Bus route Marina to Downtown Valdivia

Bus route Marina to Downtown Valdivia

Our goal was to find Club de Yates Valdivia to meet the manager who had been assisting us.  He manages both marinas.  On our way to find him, we found two marine stores and the Armada where we checked into the port.  After a little wandering around, we decided to have lunch at the Kuntsmann brewery.

KUNTSMANN BREWERY

The Kuntsmann brewery, is a local Chilean beer that Matt has enjoyed on several occasions.  It is one of the reasons we came to Valdivia.

Kuntsmann Brewery

Kuntsmann Brewery

It was packed when we arrived.  Where did all of these people come from?  It was incredibly crowded!  Kuntsmann offers 16 flavors of beer.  And of course, Matt had to try all of them.  Luckily, they offered a flight of 16 two-ounce tasters.  After a scrumptious lunch, I made Matt tell me his top 5 which surprised even him.  Picks: Gran Torobayo, Lager, Bock, and Experimental.  Runner ups included Torobayo and IPA.

Kuntsmann Brewery

Kuntsmann Brewery

We did not have much time to explore or see the sights, but we really did enjoy Valdivia.  The bay is surrounded by huge, lush, vibrant, green trees.  After being in the desert and seeing a large variety of browns, it is a welcome change to be surrounded by so much green.

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Fun Photos

A few fun eateries we found walking around.

Kuntsmann Eateries Around Town

Kuntsmann Eateries Around Town

Notice the blood drops on the mouth of the large on on the left.  And vultures fight for food with the lobos.

More crazy lobos hanging out by the fish market

More crazy lobos hanging out by the fish market

Entrance to Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

Entrance to Club de Yates Marina Estancilla

We needed fuel again.  The last few times we had to man handle huge drums of fuel, connect it to the side of our boat, and manually filter and pump into our tanks.  It would take all day to fill both of our fuel tanks.  However, the marina arranged for a fuel truck to come to the dock, drag a 150′ hose to our boat and push almost 500 liters of fuel out in less than an hour!  We felt like the mega yachts, spoiled and grateful.

Fuel in Valdivia

Fuel in Valdivia

Look for the mega yacht power boat at the far right edge of the photo.  We are just in front of him, hardly visible – that is how far the hose reached.

Alwoplast Wooden Carved sign

Alwoplast Wooden Carved sign

Fun eatery with large sunflowers

Fun eatery, Growlers with large sunflowers

Sugar Shack alone at Bahia Llucio

El Mar: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

El Mar, the sea, the ocean, the Pacific.  All the same, a challenge.  Must admit, it has been a bit frustrating traversing across this side of the ocean.  Perhaps it is our route and I am being unfair, but gesh!  The majority of our days sailing down the coast of Chile have been with the wind and current on our nose.  We can figure out how to deal with that, but then you couple those conditions with the swirly seas and it becomes downright uncomfortable.

Please refer to the “live blog on 21 February 2019” as I don’t want to be repetitive.

The 600nm trip from Quintero to Valdivia should have taken us between 5-6 days.  We padded it a little as all of our trips have taken longer than expected with the stronger currents and weather conditions.

Early on the 4th morning, we were seeing almost 2 knots of current and over 20 knots of wind pushing against us.  El mar was so squirrely that our auto pilot could not hold our course.  We had a choice.  We could either keep our heading and make it to the next safe harbor 60 miles away.  At our speed it would take us 2.5-3 days.  Or we could turn around, backtrack 40 miles and hide out in Bahia Llico.  We decided to backtrack.

Bahia Llucio

Bahia Llucio is a one horse town. Well, not literally, but there are only about 4-5 streets, 3 small tiendas, 6 restaurants, and a fish market.  We walked the entire town in 10 minutes.  However, they do have a magnificent, long beach peppered with lovely little sea shells, crabs, clams, and muscles.

The bay is surrounded by lush, green trees which is a stark difference to its Northern towns.  Fishing boats are pulled in and out to sea using a tractor and a dozen dogs are your welcoming committee.

Bahia Llucio Anchorage

Bahia Llucio Anchorage

It was cold, so we were in full cold weather gear when we went to shore.  The pack of dogs followed us on our walk down the beach.  A small herd of cows were sun bathing, but would have nothing to do with Matt.

Bahia Llucio beach walk

Bahia Llucio beach walk

We hit out in this bay for 4.5 days before a weather window presented itself.  We had 180nm to conquer against the wind, waves, and current.  El Mar was cooperating as we were leaving.  The trip started out decent enough, we had a double reef in the main for about 12 hours before taking it down.  But then, el mar started to mimic a washing machine cycle making it a really uncomfortable ride.  We forged ahead and arrived at the Valdivia mouth at dawn.  A short 2-miles up the river and we arrived at Club de Yates Marina Estancilla.

Valdivia - Club de Yates

Valdivia – Club de Yates

Some fun photos.  Matt surrounded by his computers and charts, sunset and sunrise

Matt navigating from inside

Matt navigating from inside

Sunset at sea

Sunset at sea

Sunrise at sea

Sunrise at sea

This is what it looks like when a fishing boat encroaches on your space.  Of course, this only happens at night.

Close encounter at sea

Close encounter at sea

TRIP 1 – Thwarted and had to backtrack

  • Total miles – 377
  • Total hours – 76
  • Max Speed – 11.1
  • Average Speed – 4.9

TRIP 2 – Continuation to Valdivia

  • Total miles – 199 nm
  • Total hours – 40.25
  • Max Speed – 8.3
  • Average Speed – 4.9
Caldera

Chile Ports: Caldera, Calderilla, Salado

We received a proper send off from the lobos, dolphins and birds as we left the Chile Port of Antofagasta.  We are headed to Caldera which is about 200nm away.  The journey should take us 1.5 days with some wind even though the current and waves are going against us.

Arturo, from Club de Yates, led us out of our first Chile Port and through the foamy mess (see below top left photo.  We had lots of lobos sightings along the way.  It was super cute because they pop their head out of the water, look around, dip under, and pop up again.  They do this in a circle of about 5-6 other lobos.

The landscape is beautiful despite not having any greenery.  Rolling hills in various shades of tans and browns.

We managed to catch three of the same type of fish. We released them all as we could not identify them, let us know if you know what type of fish these are – maybe part of the tuna family?

Unknown Fish

Unknown Fish

You’ll notice the landscape is really barren and dry.  We are definitely in the dry zone.  They may get 1” of rain per year, but not every year.  It is strange to me to see beaches near the desert but that is exactly what you see when you come to Northern Chile.

We had zero wind for this trip and glassy water conditions during the day.  At night we had swirly 1m waves, but it was a full on motor the entire way.  Matt did a wonderful live blog on 27 January, so I won’t repeat his beautiful words.  Check it out here.  We cut off one engine and slowed down the other engine so we could arrive during daylight.  After 218 nm, 45 hours and 20 minutes we arrived in Caldera.

The Chile Port of Caldera bay is nice and large.  We anchored near the Club de Yachts.  As we watched our anchor, many yacht club members came by (kayak, boats) to say “hello” and welcome us to town.  We of course found more lobos.  The interesting thing is the area by the beach was set against huge, beautiful rock formations which gave the entire area a unique and stunning look.

Club de Yates Caldera

Club de Yates Caldera

We enjoyed this small town even though we only stayed for one day.  We checked in with the Armada, had a not so tasty lunch at La Chispa de Dona Luisa, and walked around.  The yacht club and the beaches were pretty busy, but that is not surprising as it is Sunday, family day.

Most shops were closed, but we stumbled across the Caldera Railway Station which was commissioned in 1850.  This train terminal had the first train depart in South America on 25 December 1851.

We also came across a statue of San Pedro Caldera, lots of funny looking manikins, a hungry shark, an old ship perched on to of a tourist building roof, and a crooked Caledera sign,

Sightseeing in Caldera

Sightseeing in Caldera

We found the local markets, hardware stores, and “tourist” traps.  Mostly this tiny town offered beach toys and stuff at the local tiendas.  We celebrated our new town with a beer.

Matt enjoying a Kuntsman Beer

Matt enjoying a Kuntsman Beer

We motored over to the next bay, Puerto Caladerilla for our second night.  The town was really, really small and we did not see any places to dock the dinghy.  So, we enjoyed a nice evening onboard.

Main photo of me next to Caldera colorful sign

CALDERILLA

We left late in the afternoon and were headed to the Chile Port of Calderilla which is a small bay less than 10nm from Caldera.  We made a light dinner and called it an early night.  The bay was relatively calm, very quiet and peaceful.  We got up early the next morning to continue heading south.  As we left the bay, we grabbed a few shots of the rocky coast.

Rocky Chilean Coastline

Rocky Chilean Coastline

BAHIA SALADO

It was another windless day but at least it was not on our nose.  We were able to let the jib out for a few short stints which gave us an extra knot or two.  Super calm seas, blue skies, and lots of lobos playing in the water.

The Chile Port of Bahia Salado is a very isolated bay.  There are 5 structures that appear to be housing compounds for the mine that operates just over the hill.  They could also be summer homes, but there is literally nothing around except these compounds and the mine.  How far do they have to go to get bread or milk or beer?

Bahia Salado - Housing Compounds

Bahia Salado – Housing Compounds

After we finished dinner, around 8pm, we watched two guys in kayaks make their way from shore to our boat.  Somewhere half way between, one fell overboard.  At this point they were about ¼ mile from shore.  As I finished up the dishes, Matt said they were getting closer.  Interesting.  I peeked and it appeared that one guy was pulling the other guy who was still in the water.  The guy in the water was pulling his kayak while holding on to his friend’s kayak.  Poor thing it was freezing outside and in the water!

They asked for help to bring them back to shore. I wish I would have grabbed my camera as it was the funniest image.  We tied one kayak with the guy still in it to Sweetie.  The other guy jumped in the dinghy as we then tied his kayak to the back of Sweetie.  He was in a t-shirt and shorts when he should have been in a full wetsuit.  He was shivering in the dink while his friend was having the time of his life riding the kayak as Sweetie towed him to shore.  It was hysterical.

Sunset in Bahia Salado

Sunset in Bahia Salado

Miles traveled from Calderilla to Bahia Salado 38.6 which took us about 6.5 hours at an average speed of 5.6kts.