Tag Archives: catamaran

Delivering the sun.

Sailing to Puerto Velero on the way to San Blas Islands

There are many ways to sail to the San Blas Islands and many places to clear into Panama. Some people clear in at Puerto Lindo or El Provenir while others sneak into the San Blas islands and clear in further up the island chain. The problem with clearing in at Puerto Lindo and El Provenir is that you have to pass by most of the San Blas islands.  So, where does Puerto Velero come in?

Since we didn’t want to take the risk of sneaking into the country and we didn’t want to circle back, we had to find another choice.  Our best option was to clear in at Puerto Obaldia which is a small village and a fairly unique entry point. It’s located on the border of Colombia and Panama and is not a popular clearance location. The guide book and noonsite have confusing language about who is and isn’t allowed to clear in at this port. Most people just avoid it due to the uncertainty and poor anchorage.

The sail to Puerto Obaldia is roughly 260 nautical miles. We could either sail 3 days/2 nights directly from Santa Marta, Colombia to Puerto Obaldia, Panama or we could sail to Puerto Velero one day and sail the remaining 200 miles in 2 days/1 night. Puerto Velero seemed like the best choice.

After leaving the comforts of Marina Santa Marta at 630am we noticed immediately that there was something wrong with our props. Matt was at the helm and was not getting much forward propulsion even though we had prop wash. We decided to forge ahead and carefully navigated our way out of the bay. We raised our sails with two reefs in and headed south without the engines. The winds were gusting over the forecast to 35 knots and predicted 1-meter waves were over 3-meters. We settled in for a fun sail down to the Magadelana river in Barranquilla.

As we approached the Barranquilla river we watched the beautiful blue water turn greenish brown. The water became more polluted with tree branches, logs, and trash. We even saw a man’s shoe. Which is scary as the rumor is the cartel dumps bodies into the river to be carried out to sea. We started to cross at about 6 miles offshore, into the light brown water, then into the dark milkshake waters. The depth gauge started reading 3 meters when it should be hundreds, so an immediate about face back to the 3-color water highway.

Mucky waters.

Mucky waters.

Thank goodness, we had strong winds and a broad reach / run which enabled us to sail fairly quickly without the engines. However, we had to use our engines as we entered the Puerto Velero bay which was painful at 2 knots with both engines pushing 1800 rpm (normally that would give us 6 knots). Once we arrived into Puerto Velero, we dropped anchor and Matt hopped in the water with the hooka to clean the props. We had offers to clean the bottom of the boat but we did not think it needed it since the water line was pretty clean. Big mistake! Matt spent an hour cleaning off 1” of hard and soft growth from the props. No wonder they could not give us forward propulsion – poor things. Matt prepared a really nice pulled pork dinner in the pressure cooker which turned out amazing!

Day 1
• Total Daily Miles: 68
• Max Speed: 15.2
• Avg Speed: 7.2
• Hours Moving: 9
• Wind Avg: 25–30 knots
• Wing Angle: Broad Reach to Run
• Wave Height Avg: 3-4 meters

Up next, the completion of this voyage and arrival into Panama…

Matt took this photo in Santa Marta and it missed a post…

This is how the sun is delivered in Columbia. This is how the sun is delivered in Columbia.

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Comedy of Errors and Total Disaster

Comedy of Errors.  Even the best made plans can turn into a comedy of errors. Our good friend, Wayne was coming to visit us (he is not the error). So we scheduled an English-speaking taxi driver to pick him up (with a sign and everything). He flew on American Airlines from Dallas to Bogota and then Avianca Airlines from Bogota to Santa Marta.

After Wayne landed in Bogota he alerted us that his next flight would be late (10p vs 830p). When we notified the taxi driver she offered to pick us up and bring us to the airport at no extra charge – a great surprise! We loaded a small cooler with beer and met the taxi driver at 915p giving us plenty of time to get to the airport.

We arrived early, confirmed at the counter that his flight had left, and went upstairs to the café to watch the screens for his flight’s arrival. The eateries closed, another flight arrived, but it wasn’t Wayne’s flight. It’s getting later and later. We decided to head to the arrival area, despite the fact that the screen still showed his plane in route. We asked the airport personnel and they said his flight had come in before the flight unloading now. Yikes we missed him! Our error as we should have just waited at arrivals outside.  We rushed back to the marina. Luckily, Wayne was able to get another English-speaking driver to take him to the marina and accepted U.S. dollars (both unusually rare). He had been waiting about 5-10 minutes by the time we arrived with beer in hand. Welcome to Colombia!

The next day, Matt got up early to get a much-needed haircut and swung by the bakery for morning treat.

We decided to show Wayne around town while finishing up last minute provisioning. First stop was the Mercado Publico to show off the fresh fish, meat, veggie, and fruit markets.

We picked up lots of fresh fruits and veggies, then stopped by the gas station to pick up two-stroke for the dinghy. Next, we picked up rolls at the bakery on the way to Exito, the large supermarket. We each had several bags full of items with no receipts (considering we bought them from street vendors).

DISASTER

As you enter Exito, the security guard searches your bags and tries to staple them closed, which works on plastic bags but not our cloth bags. So, I had this brilliant idea, to use Google Translate on my phone to look up “can we leave our bags at the security desk?” I asked, he said “no” so the boys jockeyed through the crowd to find an empty place out of the way. I set my bags, phone, and wallet down with the boys to go get a cart. Somewhere, somehow, my wallet and phone walked off – gone! Poof! Disaster!

The boys went searching, back tracking our steps, checking garbage cans looking everywhere while I sobbed and tried to explain, in Spanish what happened. We checked the security cameras, nothing. I was a mess, heartbroken, and so disappointed. My wallet had my driver’s license, $300, my atm card, credit card, and photo copies of all 3 of our passports. Matt and Wayne took me begrudgingly back to the boat where we cancelled the two cards and filed for a new driver’s license. We could not use “find my phone” as the phone was in airplane mode. I can only hope that it was a petty thief who saw an opportunity to give their family a better Christmas. Using the money, selling the phone (which was locked) and not stealing my digital footprint or identity. One can pray.

I was in a funk despite the boys’ effort to cheer me up. We went to happy hour where I sulked and then went to El Bistro one of our favorite places to eat. Matt even bought me a new wallet and two cute bracelets’ (all of $8) and my head still hung low.

We did manage to dig up an old iPhone5 which we tried to replicate as much as possible. The problem being we were leaving a wifi zone for a non wifi zone and anything I needed to update had to happen that night – we did our best.

Time heals all wounds and this one particularly stung!

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Sunset Marina Santa Marta

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Life in Santa Marta

The oldest city in Colombia, romantic Santa Marta is fringed by delightful beaches and the stunning mountains of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta range.  Santa Marta is a beautiful little seaside town filled with shops, eateries, bars, discos, malls, and lots of street vendors  It is easy to navigate around, exceedingly clean, and very friendly.  The marina, an IGY marina is very large and provides several amenities including showers, laundry, mini-market, security, WiFi, and good customer service.

At 1800 there is an impromptu happy hour where the cruisers gather to share their stories and watch the sunset.

Sunset from IGY Marina Santa Marta

Sunset from IGY Marina Santa Marta
The XVIII Bolivarian Gameswere being held Santa Marta during our stay. It is a multidisciplinary sporting event that takes place at a regional level every four years among the Bolivarian nations, between November 11 and 25, 2017.

Santa Marta Olympics and their mascot.

Santa Marta Olympics and their mascot.

Athletes from 11 countries compete in 34 sports disciplines.  Competition in golf, volleyball, tennis, mixed equestrian, diving, weight lifting, sailing, soccer, rugby, baseball, boxing, judo, and karate.

All water sports start and end at our marina.

All water sports start and end at our marina.

Gorgeous Tall Ship with teams on the rafters singing!

Gorgeous Tall Ship with teams on the rafters singing!

Across from the marina are a lot of eateries.  There is a bank of cafes right as you exit the marina and then across from the marina is a handful of other tasty treats.  We decided to enjoy sunset from the rooftop bar called “Sunset.”

Santa Marta. Sunset at Sunset's bar.

Sunset at Sunset’s bar.

Along the streets of Santa Marta you will find a lot of vendors selling their wares, but you will also find many fun street performers – everyone is trying to make a buck.

Yikes, bad photo, but these guys were amazing street dancers!

Yikes, bad photo, but these guys were amazing street dancers!

Our friend Barry, from Adventures of an Old Sea Dog even got into the action – here is performing one of his original songs.

INSERT BARRY VIDEO

Barry took us to one of his favorite street vendors.  It was down a dark alley with a few other food carts.  We stopped at the first one and had burgers (I had a chicken burger and they had beef) along with cheese fries and it was amazingly tasty!  All for 8,000 pesos ($2.50).

Matt and I are stocking up before we head to the San Blas Islands where grocery stores are non-existent.  Food is very cheap in Columbia, but you do have to shift your thinking.  They don’t have the same brands or types of foods so you must improvise.  In fact this grocery store, Jumbo is located inside Ocean Mall.  Always fun pushing a grocery cart through a shopping mall.

1 million 300 hundred thousand pesos later - our grocery run of staples. ($400). Shopping at the largest market which happens to be inside a mall.

1 million 300 hundred thousand pesos later – our grocery run of staples. ($400). Shopping at the largest market which happens to be inside a mall.

Some basic staples to fill the bilges for San Blas islands.

Some basic staples to fill the bilges for San Blas islands.

Life in the marina includes:

  • Daily walks to fresh fruit and veggie market.
  • Easy access to loads of restaurants with tasty, cheap food.
  • Close proximity to many cruisers which creates an instant community.
  • Most noteworthy, nightly happy hour.
  • Daily showers.
  • Laundry twice a month.