In our last blog post, we take you and our friend Wayne on a tour of the Lao group. The Lao group are the outer islands of Fiji that are pristine in nature, basic in lifestyle, and full of loving, generous, small tribes.
We started the tour in Savusavu, then headed to Taveuni, and then off to Ogea. From here we started to head North to Yagasa, then Lakeba.
In an ideal situation, we would make our way to the Northern Lao Group, then slowly make our way south, then head west toward the mainland Viti Levu. However, the tradewinds run southeast so we end up making a figure 8 and putting a lot of miles under the boat!
Continuing on with Lao Island Tour Part II
Matt caught a Mahi but he didn’t make it into our freezer. Matt grabbed the line to take a photo and the clever fish wiggled off the hook, bounced down the sugar scoops and into the water. It was his lucky day!
After we left Lakeba, we head to our favorite place (so far) in Vanua Balavu called Bay of Islands. Before we head to the anchorage, we stop at Dalconi to do our sevusevu with the village chief Josese. We also meet Tuta, the headman who we scheduled a cave snorkel tour for the next day.
After our sevusevu ceremony, we asked some kids to walk us around the village. They were so delightful! Can you see Sugar Shack in the top photo?
Dalconi Village
Bay of Islands
The next morning, we head straight over to the Bay of Islands. We find the same spot from the last time we were here and we enjoy this beautiful place all to ourselves. This is certainly my favorite place in the Lao group.
Tuta picks us up in a long boat for our tour of several caves that we can snorkel through.
There are 4 caves, but I only went inside . Two. The first one, which happened to be the furthest away from the anchorage is called the “meeting room.” Evidently, elders used to meet here during low tide. You don’t need a mask to get inside, but you do need to swim in.
On the outside, it is a little upside-down thermometer (at least that is what it looks like to me). We jump in the water, and head inside and are instantly in awe of the beautiful interior of the cave. With its peek-a-boo holes throughout the cave walls allowing light and small bats to come and go as they please.
Matt has a flash light and illuminates the ceiling which casts an eerie glow.
I really enjoyed this cave and its many caverns and light holes. So much beauty hidden in darkness.
The 2nd cave is a no-go for me. The boys take on the adventure and I stay outside admiring the beautiful coral and large clams.
The boys had to swim below the surface about 2 meters and then swim 3 meters inside the cave. Be careful to pop up away from the hanging stalactites. It was a deep cave that went further back than the first cave, but wasn’t as tall or impressive. There were no openings to let in the light. The opening is a tiny peep hole just barely visible at the water line.
2nd Cave Snorkel
The 3rd cave we had visited on our own so we told him we did not need to go again. The 4th cave was completely under water and we were told to come back at true low tide (as it was, we were 2 hours before low tide).
Here is a photo of all 3 entrances:
Added Tour Bonus Stops
After our tour, Tuta took us to the Flying Fox tree (bats). Boy were they unhappy about us being there! Such funny looking animals with their see-through winds and spiny bodies.
Next we went to a private island owned by the owner of Oakley sunglasses. The caretaker welcomed us and offered tasty coconuts to cool us off.
Vanua Balavu always has beautiful sunsets.
A New Island: Kadavu
We had another 200nm overnight passage from Vanua Balavu to Kadavu). We sail past one of Mel Gibson’s islands here in Fiji (it is private so we can’t stop).
Kadavu is no longer part of the Lao group, but it is reported to be stunning. On the passage, Wayne brought in a beautiful bull Mahi Mahi.
Vanua Balavu to Kadavu
Trip Details
- Total Miles: 206
- Moving Time: 27 hours
- Max Speed: 12.6
- Average Speed: 7.6
Our first anchorage in Kadavu is called North Bay. The winds are howling so we tuck into a quiet little spot all to ourselves. The mangroves line the bottom of the mountainside as the tall trees jet up behind them. Super pretty contrast in greens.
Since we arrived on a Sunday, we decided to stay on the boat and do our sevusevu the following day. A friend of ours told us that there is no “chief” per se, but that we did not stop in to the police station and show them our paperwork.
So, early the next day, we loaded up into Sweetie and headed to town. We were greeted by a group of fishermen who were free diving for sea cucumbers to sell to China. They were so friendly and nice, they welcomed us to the village of Vunisea and told us to enjoy ourselves.
Up and over two small hills, we finally arrived to the village that was surprisingly big. They had 5 small markets, 1 hardware store, and a fresh veggie market. This side of the village had beautiful white sandy beaches, where we have mangroves and tree lined hills. We found the airport (top right, and the “terminal” middle right, along with street signs!
We take a dinghy ride around the lagoon and enjoy the beauty of the island. Lots of cascading green trees that drape down to the next tree creating a waterfall effect.
Sugar Shack sitting alone in her bay.
Next we head to Musket Cove and the metropolis of Denaru on Viti Levu Fiji’s main island.
Events from this blog occurred in the first two weeks of July. Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual events. In our last blog, we take Wayne on a Lao Group Island Tour.