Tag Archives: atoll

The Arresting Beauty of Amanu

Matt and I spent several days exploring the motus all around our anchorage.  We found little passageways between the reefs that allowed us to bring Sweetie closer to the motu.  The first day was really blind ambition.  We had set out with no water, no money and a curiosity to see the small spits of land that make up the ring around Amanu.

On our first adventure netted lots of sea treasures.  We only collect shells from the beach and always make sure they are uninhabited.  The strange thing is that most of the really beautiful shells are occupied.  We gently put them back where we found them and walk away with a pout.

The water is still warm, but not as warm as in Tikehau.  We explore all the way out to the reef (can you find Matt in the photo)?

We walk across dead coral, shards of coral, and broken shells.  Some areas are shallow water where you have to avoid the millions (not exaggerating) of sea cucumbers.  I swear Amanu is the breeding ground for all of the world’s sea cucumbers.  Ick!

Walking across shallow water proves to be more challenging then you’d think.  Between trying not to step on the sea cucumbers, walking around the coral and avoiding the holes.

We found a road that looked like it would lead to town.  But we had already walked a few miles with no water and since we had no money, we decided to walk to town another day.

The Town of Amanu

The next day, we headed out more prepared.  We had water, money, Band-Aids, and a burning desire to see the town of Amanu.

We decided to take the road into town and walk the beach on the way back.  It did not take nearly as long to get town as we thought but then again, we went straight there instead of exploring the motus (since we did that the day before).  The walk around town and round trip ended up being about 4.6miles.

The town is super small and consists of the following:

  • Magasin (market) with only basic dry goods (no fresh)
  • Le Maire (mayor’s office)
  • Clinic
  • OPT (post office)
  • Two cemeteries
  • Church
  • Many abandoned relics

There are a few roads, but we walked all of them and around the entire town in about 10 minutes.  Very small with loads of friendly people.

We came across several cemeteries. I know it is morbid but I am always fascinated with cemeteries.  Here we found several amazingly gorgeous, hand carved crosses, with lots of shellac.

There were lots of abandoned buildings dating back to the 1800s!  I sure wish we had the history on these buildings.

The church is right by the pass. It is an old building, but behind it you will see modern technology at its best (solar panels).

The Pass at Amanu 

We hung out by the pass leading into the Amanu lagoon and watched a few boats come in during slack tide.  The top two photos show the entrance to the pass.  The bottom photo is the center of the pass.

Amanu Pass

Amanu Pass

We walked along the wall that follows the pass. 

Matt along the pass

Matt along the pass

Toward the entrance is a surf break where the water was so clear you could see the reef through the waves.

By sheer luck, we ran into the mayor, Francois.  He is the youngest mayor in all of French Polynesia and France!  I believe he is in his late 20’s and he was marvelous.  He also happens to be the nurse on island!

Me and Francois, the Mayor of Amanu

Me and Francois, the Mayor of Amanu

Amanu Fun Photos

Can you see Sugar Shack across the reef and lagoon in the background?

Can you see Sugar Shack?

Can you see Sugar Shack?

Matt taking a break on our walk back to the boat on day 2

Sugar Shack is anchored in the middle of a “C” shaped reef.  It is amazing to see the reef appear during low tide and disappear in high tide.

INSERT 2 COLLAGE OF REEF NEAR ANCHORAGE

Events from this blog post occurred around the 4th week of November, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

The Tuamotu Archipelago

The Tuamotus archipelago is the widest of the five French Polynesia archipelagos.  Makatea and the 4 Gambier islands are the only high islands.  However, the remaining 83 motus or atolls are not actually islands.  Only 6% (roughly 19,000) of the Tahitian population live in this region, which is surprising considering it has the most islands and covers the widest area.

Tuamotus (Image from Google Images)

Tuamotus (Image from Google Images)

This region is famous for its colorful and perfect pearls (Gambiers).  However, its first quality is the purity and wealth of the underwater world.

The Tuamotus were named “the dangerous archipelago” because of their hazardous passes and abundant coral heads “bombies.”  The first European settlers aptly named the region because of the immense risks it presented to the ships during that era.  Alternatively, today, many vessels visit the area thanx to navigational charts and Google Earth.

Google Earth will give you high level images of the archipelago. As well as many other images (as you know).

Google Earth Image of Tuamotus

Google Earth Image of Tuamotus

In addition, you can zoom in to see a particular region.

Google Earth Islands

Google Earth Islands

Alternatively, you can zoom in to see a specific motu.  You can even zoom in enough to see the coral heads.

Google Earth image of Tikehau

Google Earth image of Tikehau

The archipelago is divided into the Western and Eastern islands.  The western islands were discovered long before the Society Islands.  The Spanish navigators discovered them in 1605 and then the Dutch in 1616.  However, despite these discoveries, it took an additional 230 years for the world to learn about this archipelago.  The whaling captains plowed through these seas refusing to talk about them.  Probably trying to protect their fishing zones. Because discovering an island was not a priority.

Easter Tuamotus

Explorers left the Eastern Tuamotus mostly undiscovered.  That is until the The French Government decided to put the Centre d’essai du Pacific Experimentation Center (CEP) in these atolls in 1960.  Which is just a fancy name for nuclear testing facility.  These tests continued for 33 years before it was shut down in 1996.

By way of example, a typical Tuamotu island will look like the photo below.  In particular, with a reef surrounding the motus and a lagoon in the center.

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

Islands we have already visited in the Tuamotus (as of 22 Sept. 2019)

  • Hao
  • Makatea
  • Tikehau
  • Rangiroa
  • Hao

Islands we hope to visit in the Tuamotus:

  • Apataki
  • Kauehi
  • Fakarava
  • Tahanea
  • Makemo
  • Ahe
  • Amanu
  • Manehi

Considering the above list, if we were to hit all of those islands, we would have visited all of the passable atolls in the Tuamotus.  The fact that it is the largest archipelago, that is a huge feat.

Making of an atoll

The Making of an Atoll: The Subsidence Phenomenon

Every single island in the Tuamotus, and a few islands in the other archipelagos, are atolls.  So, what is an atoll?

An atoll begins to form when a volcanic island becomes inactive.  All of the islands in French Polynesia are slowly sinking and moving west.  Some have just been sinking a lot longer than others.  The volcanic islands in the Tuamotus are some of the oldest in the region.

The volcanic island sinks or subsides under its own weight.  At the same time, a coral reef forms around the island.  This takes about 6 million years.  The coral reef can be between 0 and 200 meters deep.  Anything deeper than 200 meters soon dies as it does not have enough light to survive. 

Over time, the volcanic mountain disappears completely.  The coral proliferates as the volcano slips into the ocean.  New colonies spring up on the skeletons of the old ones, constantly renewing the calcareous crown of the surface.  Eventually, what remains of the mountain is an underwater basalt platform covered with a thick calcareous crust.

This display is a good example of the making of an atoll.  The image up front shows the volcano, the center shows the mountain sinking and the furthest one is an atoll.

Making of an atoll

Making of an atoll

Typically, there is a passe that allows vessels to enter the lagoon that is surrounded by the coral reef.  Some atolls have no passe which makes them impossible to visit.  Other atolls have a dangerous passe which has to be navigated during a certain time (slack tide) to avoid damaging your vessel.

Teti’aroa’s atoll

Teti’aroa has no passe.  There is no way to bring the big boat into the protected lagoon.  However, there are 5 mooring balls located near the reef buried in over 50 meters of water.  We were able to secure one of these moorings.  The photo below is from our Navionic app which shows a light gray reef all the way around the atoll.  The yellow spots indicate the motus or islets and the blue (inside the gray) is the lagoon.  The gray represents the coral around the motus.

Teti'aroa motus

Teti’aroa motus