Tag Archives: ambrym

Fanla Festival: A Mystical Culture

The ROM or “masked” dance is known for its detailed and complex masks, elaborate costumes, and rhythmic drumming.  It is performed by the chiefs, elders, and sorcerers during special ceremonies, grade-taking, and occasionally for performances.

In this post I will share with you the history and magic of the cone shaped masks.  In our next blog, you will encounter the extraordinary ROM dance.

Legend of the Mask

The two-sided ROM mask represents good and evil.  The legend says that a beautiful young woman from Olal (a village on the North tip of Ambrym) created the first ROM costume to gain the love of a young man. She donned the ROM outfit and enticed him into the forest where she revealed herself to him and fatefully told him how she made the costume.

The man did not love the woman, but he did love the mask.  So, he killed the woman, took the mask, and sold the rights to make the copies of the costume to fellow tribesmen.  He traded the rights for pigs which he used to gain the next grade and improve his status.

The belief that stands for the “good” stems from a young mother who had a baby who could not be soothed.  It cried uncontrollably so she created a mask to bring it joy.

How is the ROM Costume Made?

The ancient ritual is shrouded in secrecy. Costumes are kept in strict hiding until the ceremony begins.  If a male takes a “peek”, they must pay the fine of one pig and endure a whipping with a stinging plant.

If a woman watched any process in the making of the costume then she would be killed.

The ROM mask consists of a tall, conical, brightly painted, banana fiber mask, with a face that resembles a baboon.  Each side is unique and clearly shows the fight between good and evil.  The top part is adorned with feathers, leaves, and flowers.

The dancer’s bodies are adorned in a thick, somewhat intimidating cloak of dried bananas leaves.  In their hand they carry hand woven, cone shaped weapons to ward off evil spirits.

Each costume, especially the mask is made with great sorcery and embedded with magic.

High ranking chiefs and warriors who dance alongside the Rom dancers wearing nambas.  They will often wear red flowers in their hair to symbolize pride, majesty, knowledge and strength, as well as a boar tooth necklace to indicate power and wealth.

Some chiefs will wear a namale leaf on their back to convey peace, while others wear white bird feathers to suggest both peace and safety.

The Rights to the Mask

Only men who are of a certain grade can buy the rights to make a mask.  When a man wishes to ascend the village hierarchy, he must purchase (with pigs and money) the rights to learn how to make the mask and embed it with spirits and power.  They will create a pattern and spend an extensive amount of time learning the rules that determine specific colors and shapes of the mask as well as the type of magic it will possess.

The first mask design will be very simple and will only cost a few pigs and money.  As the man ascends in grades, his mask will become more complicated and will cost a lot more. As the man ascends, he must pay with more pigs and money to learn the teachings of a more complicated designs.  The right to make or wear a sacred mask carries high costs in the Ambrym society.

Once they buy the rights to a design they own it for life.  They will be the only one that can replicate the design, carve the design, and draw the design for eternity.  

Each design has powerful magic embedded into it which is why it is destroyed after the ceremony.  Part of the teaching is not only how to create the mask, but how to embed it with the spirits.  ROM masks usually invoke the spirits of the ancestors and are important agents of social control.

Mass Destruction

Immediately following the ceremony, the creator of the costume will destroy the mask and burn the banana leaves.  They believe that the spirit within lives on and will haunt and plague the wearer if it is not destroyed.

Although, I think that is an ancient belief and practice.  Why do you ask?  Well we were told to tell other cruisers to come anytime to see the ROM dance.  But if it takes 2 weeks to make the costumes and they are destroyed after each ceremony, then how can someone come to see it anytime??

After the ceremony we were allowed to take photos of the costumes.  However, nobody was allowed to get closer than 3 meters.

This website has interesting insight into the ROM mask.

Coming up next is the very exciting ROM dance which was a profound and riveting privilege to witness.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  The ROM dance at the Fanla Festival took place on 11 July 2024.  Did you read about Fanla, the authentic kastom village where the ROM dance takes place?

Tam Tams and the Beautiful Art of Carving

After our lovely tour of the Fanla village we are finally taken to the nasara, their sacred site.  The nasara is a 400-year old concept which brings together the surrounding villagers for special ceremonies.

It is a short walk through the forest to the nasara which is a wide-open clearing.  This particular nasara is the only one used for grade taking ceremonies and the ROM dance.  It’s unique and privileged status is highlighted with the mass amounts of tam tams surrounding it.

Tam Tams

What is a tam tam and why is it so valuable?  A tam tam is a hollowed out slit drum that is placed in sacred grounds.  They range from 1-4 meters in height and usually have the bottom portion buried in the ground.

They are a symbol of wealth, prestige, and are markers of one’s level of initiation (grade level).

The tam tams are made from large trees within the breadfruit family.  This type of tree already holds significance to the villagers as a sacred, magical tree.

The Tam Tam Carver (Creator)

The process of making the slit drum is a very important ritual. There are many types of carvers in Vanuatu, but the ones that have the legal right to carve tam tams only reside in Ambrym.  Carvers have to pay for the right to carve the design (or face).  The fee of pigs and yams is very expensive.

The carver of a tam tam is also a sorcerer.  He is responsible for imbuing the tam tam with spiritual power.  Special measures are taken throughout the carving process to ensure that it is kept secret.

The tam tams are carved to honor their ancestors and designs/faces are unique to each carver.  This carver pays for the “rights” to this design and is the only one who can replicate it.

Some tam tams are carved with more than one face.  However, you have to be a high grade level to be able to carve a multi faced tam tam and it will cost you several valuable pigs.  No tam tam is allowed to have more than 5 faces.  Such drums are quite rare as the carver must pay extra in order to create each additional face. 

We found 2 two-faced tam tams while we were at Atchin island (which is near the North tip of Malekula).  It is such a rare find to come across a multiple face tam tam in its original environment.  We are so darn lucky!

Here is a post by someone else where they have more multiple faced tam tams.

What is their Purpose?

When the carving is complete, a hole is dug about 1.5 meters and the slit drum is sunk vertically or at a slight angle.  This will allow the drummer easier access to the drum during performances.

Tam tams are used during sacred ceremonies and they are used to send messages of birth, death, impending war, circumcision, meetings, and dance.

The rhythmic beating of the slit drums will shake the ground under your feet and can be heard for many miles.  Matt did not attend the 2nd day of the Fanla Festival and was out on his SUP.  He heard the drumming from the sea which is at least 5 miles away from the village in the mountains.

Stone or Lava Carvings

Stones have long been a source of magic in Ambrym.  So, if you are lucky enough to find a stone carving it has extra special meanings.  Stone carvings will usually cost more and are harder to find.

Often you will find special stones or rocks near the tam tams which represent the chief’s or elders ranking.

Stone or lava tikis are usually located near banyon trees to protect the spirit of the tree.  Male banyan trees are sacred and tabu for women to go near. The banyan tree near the nasara had two lava tikis. 

The festival had lots of carvings for sale and I was lucky enough to purchase the smaller, stone tiki below.

Wooden Carvings

Ambrym is known for its carvers and many of them live near Fanla.  So, we had a wide variety of carvings to shop from.  They had tiki statues, masks, necklaces, pig killing hammers, carving tools, and flutes.

Some of the work is really intricate while others are simplistic.  The prices reflected the detail of the work but usually ranged from 2,000vt to 80,000vt ($20-$800 USD).  

Here are several more stone, lava and wood carvings that were located around the nasara in Fanla.

Carving Demonstration

We were able to participate in a carving demonstration while we were anchored in Ranon. Starting from a round piece of wood, already shaved of its husk.  He used modern tools like a hammer and chisel.  He started on the face, then the ROM hat, then the top using a machete and a saw to add detail.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  The Fanla Festival occurred in mid-July 2024.  Fanla, an authentic kastom village tour occurred in our last blog post..

Beautiful Bays in Ambrym

Ambrym is full of many lovely anchorages and bays.  Several are listed on charts and cruising guides and some we explored based on their beauty on the satellite charts.

Double Bay

We left Lonwolwol and headed for Double Bay which is not on any of the guide books.  But it looked super pretty on the satellite charts and it was on the way to North Ambrym (where we needed to be in  a week).  Super short motor, 8nm and we dopped the hook.  It is as beautiful as it looks on the satellite images.

Black sand beach with lots of volcanic rocks and shelves, bright green hills and multi colored rock faces.  The “shelves” are made of volcanic rock, sand, and debris and crumbles under your weight near the edges.  We found several unusual fallen trees with other trees wrapped around the trunks and lots and lots of flies and spiders.

It rained a lot here, so we had a lot of rainbows.  For the most part this is a great anchorage, but probably better in settled weather conditions.  Both Moana and Sugar Shack woke up at 5am to our anchor alarms going off as we were dragging.  We both had to reset the hook but then all was good.  The other bummer part of this bay is that you get lots of black debris on your boat (either black sand or the volcano dust) and you get a yellow rim around the water line from the sulfur in the water.

On our way out of Double Bay we drove by the other half of the bay and it was gorgeous.  The colors on the rock mountains were astounding and the caves are so mysterious.  We could not anchor here as it was too deep (30meters).

Ranon Bay

We make it to Ranon Bay which is where we need to be for the very famous Fanla Festival.  It is a small village with lots of very friendly people.   We visit the school, pass by a church, see many colorful houses, and discover a new nut (yellow flower below).

Can you understand what the writing is on the wall on bottom right photo?  Answer at the end of the post.

Ranon Bay is known for its carvers (both wood and stone).  So, we organize a display of carving work by all of the carvers at one time.  Unfortunately, there was a miscommunication and only one carver showed up.  We also meet with the chief to discuss our plans for the festival which is held at the neighboring village of Fanla.

These giant, 4 meter tall logs are the start of the famous Tam Tams.  Ambrym is famous for its magnificent tam-tams (or slit drums) sculpted out of the breadfruit family tree trunks. They are the some of the most impressive items of art in Vanuatu. The dancing areas in the traditional villages are decorated with Tam Tams planted in the ground, which can measure several meter’s high. They are used to beat the rhythm for the singing and dancing during ceremonial rituals.  Stay tuned for pictures of complete Tam Tams in our Fanla Festival blog post.

What is a Dinghy Wash?

Back in the states, when I had a car, I used to love going to the car wash.  Mostly because I loved a clean car but also because it was fun for me (I know weirdo).  Well, since I no longer have a car there has been no need for a car wash….but Matt found us a dinghy wash :0

We found a waterfall that fell directly into a bay and was deep enough to drive the dinghy through. There is a super funny video on Instagram so be sure to check it out on sv Sugar Shack’s page.

The day before the Fanla Festival we had Chief Sekor visit, he organizes the Fanla festival.  He came in from Olal which is another village at the north end of Ambrym.  I also met Chief Felix of Ranon and a lovely lady who had me giggling.  

Coming up next is a series of blog posts on the very famous Fanla Festival.

Answer: Cyclone Safe House

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred in mid-July.  We shared the history of Ambrym in our last blog.