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A Bunch of Flamingos & 2 Jack Asses

We had a very slow start this morning, even though we intended to get up early to leave the boat by 8-830am.  By the time we got to shore, tied Sweet N Low up, walked to where we thought the car rental place was it was blazen hot.  I mean no breeze, sweat dripping in places you didn’t know sweated hot!  I know you are feeling really sorry for us now, right?  Along our walk, we did come across this really cool painting on the back of someone’s garage.

Cultural art on the back of a garage.

Cultural art on the back of a garage.

We got lost searching for a rental car place  and walked for over a mile before we found a Budget.  Unfortunately, they did not rent cars from this office but they were willing to drive us to the airport where they could accommodate us.  An hour later we were on the road to the Washington Slagbaai National Park.   Since it was late in the morning, we decided to stop in the town Rincon to have lunch since there are no places to eat in the park and our cooler was full of beer and light snacks.  Eddy, our tour guide, suggested we try the Rose Inn.  Time has come to a complete stand still in this local restaurant in the heart of Rincon.  The Rose Inn has been a cozy, popular outdoor venue for ages and you can still order plenty of authentic local dishes under the trees. Wayne tried goat stew, I had chicken stew, and Matt had the fresh fish.  It was pretty tasty and the beer was really cold.  Even though it was a bit pricey, we will probably find our way back here.

As we were leaving Rincon, we spotted a strange site…what’s wrong with this picture?

Why is there a real phone inside the phone booth?

Why is there a real phone inside the phone booth?

Just before you enter the park, you come across the windmill farm which is the home to 12 windmills that provide part of the power for the island.  Makes for a pretty picture too.

Windmill farm.

Windmill farm.

We learned that if you buy your snorkel or dive permit ahead of time you get a discount off your  $25 ticket to the park.  (If you buy a $10 snorkel permit you get $10 off, if you buy a $25 dive permit you get to enter for free).  Our park passes are good through 12/31/17.  There are two driving paths you can take, one is 2.5 hours long and the other is 1.5 hours long.  Both require a truck or high vehicle as the roads are rough.  Since we had a late start and ate lunch in Rincon, we only had 3 hours in the park which was a bummer as there were several things we wanted to do.  So, we had to make a change of plans.  We would drive the long route today and come back tomorrow to do the short route, hike Brandaris, and snorkel.  So, we headed off, bumping along in our pickem up truck, we stopped at Playa Chikitu which is the only park with sand dunes.

 Playa Chikitu

Playa Chikitu

The next stop, Suplado Blow Hole was one I had been looking forward to seeing as I love blow holes.  Suplado means “spectacular” and it did not disappoint!

​​insert video blow hole

Malmok is an important historical and geological site where you can find evidence of past hurricanes and tsunamis. The ruins left behind are from the 19th century Malmok lighthouse which was built, but never lit.

Malmok lighthouse ruins.

Malmok lighthouse ruins.

Playa Benge had a rocky terrain so we moved on to Play Funchi.  Wayne and I stayed in the truck as Matt just wanted to pop out to take a photo.  As he was coming back we noticed a pack of iguanas, big and small coming toward the truck-a small invasion.  It appeared they wanted the shade.  As Matt hopped in, one large iguana lept on to the front passenger tire and dared us to move!  He eventually  jumped off but only after we moved the truck forward and back a few times.

Seriously, you want me to move?

Seriously, you want me to move?

The next stop, Wayaka Beach has three dive/snorkel sites (I, II, III).  Since, we were planning on snorkeling here the next day, we just peeked and admired the pretty water!  Until tomorrow.

Wayaka Snorkel Site II

Wayaka Snorkel Site II

The last stop, Boka and Salina Slagbaai is home to another flamingo sanctuary and they were out in full force!  The boka, or bay used to be one of Bonaire’s two main ports.  The name Slagbaai is Dutch for “Slaugher bay” as goats used to be slaughtered and salted next to the bay before being exported to Curacao.  Luckily, the old port buildings are now used as picnic areas.



On the way out, which is an hour long bumpy ride, we saw a few jack asses that Matt tried to befriend, but they were not having anything of it.

Mr. Ass did not want to have anything to do with Matt, much to his dismay.

Mr. Ass did not want to have anything to do with Matt, much to his dismay.

Stay tuned for our return trip to Washington Slagbaai National Park where we hike Brandaris and snorkely Wayaka II.

Discovering Bonaire-North Part II

Heading to the North side of the island we passed several homes that took advantage of the abundance of cactus that grew on the island.  They have two main types of cactus and they are used for very different reasons.  The towering Kadushi Cactus is more like a multi-trunk tree with thousands of needles and is now being harvested for the Cadushy Distillery. The other cactus is the Yatu Cactus which is also tall, sometimes as much as 30 feet, but has fewer needles, and is often used to make fences.  This picture below shows the towering Kadushi Cactus to the right and the Yatu cactus used to make fences.


There are over 80 designated dive spots on Bonaire and Klein Bonaire with almost 80% being snorkel/dive spots.  One of the most famous is the 1,000 step dive spot where you have to hike down many steps to the beach.  Not sure why it is called 1,000 steps when there are only about 72 steps – maybe because it feels like 1,000 steps when you have all your gear and tank on your back when you hike back up to your car?  But either way it is truly beautiful.  We will have to come back here to snorkel for sure.

View from the top of 1,000 steps.

View from the top of 1,000 steps.

Wayne enjoying the view.

Wayne enjoying the view.

Welcoming committee at the beginning of 1,000 steps.

Welcoming committee at the beginning of 1,000 steps.


Eddy drove by 4 caves and told us that Flow gives tours when he is on island.  He is currently showing Bill Gates around so he is unavailable until later in June.  So, we will have to catch up with him later to do this tour.

We turned inland and explored Lagun Goto Go omeer that borders the Washington Slagbaai National Park.  In fact you can see the park across from the lagoon including the tallest mountain Brandaris which is 241 meters tall (or 748′).  Local farmers build stick fences (think beaver dams) to keep the donkeys out and away from the Flamingos (evidently they like to chase them).


We quickly arrived in the town of Rincon which is the oldest settlement on Bonaire and the cradle of the island’s cultural heritage.  This 16th century village also possess great national treasures, the only distillery on island, and hosts countless festivals and activities.    As we entered Rincon, we were greeted by a welcome sign to the island’s only distillery.  Eddy asked if we were interested in stopping and we quickly answered yes.  The Cadushy Distillery makes rum, vodka, whiskey, liqueurs, and the world’s only cactus tequila.  Everything is created at this local distillery including bottling and labeling.  They currently produce between 15-20,000 bottles of liquor a year, which is very impressive for this small operation.  They cannot export their liquor outside of Bonaire, but some of their products are sold online in Europe.  The distillery is a small space around a beautiful courtyard with many places to sit and relax.  Many birds, lizards and small creatures can be found in this area.  They also had this really unique tree called Calbas Tree which has fruit that grows right on the trunk and branches of the tree.

Yeah, another rum factory!

Yeah, another rum factory!

Pretty little yellow bellied bird sang to us for a while.

Pretty little yellow bellied bird sang to us for a while.

Picture perfect opportunity.

Picture perfect opportunity.

Calabash Tree growing fruit on its trunk.

Calabash Tree growing fruit on its trunk.

The six liqueurs are created based on the Dutch Antilles islands.  Each flavor represents that particular islands history.  Read here for details.  They make two types of rum. One that is distilled for 2.5 years and one that is distilled for 5 years.   We were told that the owner started putting aside a few bottles for a private collection to age them longer than 2.5 years.  When his wife did inventory a few years later she decided that his private collection was too big and put several of the bottles up for sale.  Now, they sell a few bottles a year to keep the private collection down to a what she thinks is a “reasonable quantity”.  After the brief tour, we headed to the tasting bar where they gave us samples of each of the rums, the vodka, whiskey and Cadushy Bonaire liqueur.  As I stepped away to talk to our tour mates, Selena and Maria, Matt and Wayne continued talking to our tour guide and before I knew it they were buying a $50 bottle of 2.5 year rum.  I have to admit it was tasty and will be a nice addition to our island rum collection.

Distillery in the background and all of their liquors.

Distillery in the background and all of their liquors.


The last stop on our northern tour was the Seru Largu (Santa Barbara Republiek). Seru Largu means “large hill” and from the top, you can see the capital city of Kralendijk and the little island of Klein Bonaire. There is a monument at the site which reads in the Papiamentu language as “Kristu Ayera Awe Semper” which means “Christ, Yesterday, Today and Forever”.  Many locals drive to the bottom of the hill and use this area for exercise.  It was a little scary to me as the roads had no sidewalks and no clear place for pedestrians, but evidently it did not matter.  It was a true sight to see and one that we will certainly come back to soon.

This is a heavenly place.

This is a heavenly place.


At the close of our tour, I had made arrangements with Selena and Maria to do a short video for me.  I had asked them to speak to my dad and tell him to come visit me on this wonderful Dutch island.  Of course, they had to do it in Dutch!  I only understood about 10% so they could have told him to sod off, but I am sure they didn’t!  There is something to be said for being on a Dutch island when you are part Dutch. I had always wanted to go to Holland and being here makes it even more intriguing.  But for now, I will lap up all the Dutch treats, traditions, food, and language I can on the Dutch Antilles islands.

Discovering Bonaire-South Part I

We had decided to take a combination tour that would show us the North and South side of the island.  We selected Voyager Bonaire as our tour company.  Our tour guide, Eddy was very informative, funny, and totally down to earth – someone we could certainly hang out with at the local pub.  We packed a cooler, hopped in the dinghy and headed to shore for our 8:45 am pick up.  As we climbed into the air conditioned van, we met our tour mates, Selena and Maria who are from the Netherlands (they speak Dutch and English).

We started our tour heading South and the first stop was the Salt Flats.  Salt is one of Bonaire’s main industries so it is not surprising that the tour guide stopped at the flats.  They have several pits (evaporation ponds) that they slowly fill with water.  Within a week, the combination of the brine shrimp and bacteria in the ponds turn the water purple (a true purple color), as the water cools and the wind blows, foam forms on the side of the ponds and I swear it jiggles with the wind!  As the water evaporates, it leaves behind industrial salt that is not edible at this stage.  They are huge salt crystals which are moved into piles that form gorgeous white mountains.

Salt Flats week 2 turn the water purple

Salt Flats week 2 turn the water purple

Foam caused from bacteria bi-product

Foam caused from bacteria bi-product

Cool salt crystal

Cool salt crystal

Young magazine video shoot with Mustang at Salt Flats

Young magazine video shoot with Mustang at Salt Flats

Back in the 1800’s slaves used to manage the salt flats by hand, but now they have a huge conveyor belt and heavy machinery that does the work.

After we left the Salt Flats we came across the first set of “slave huts.”  They had three sets that were marked by color: red, white, and orange.  Basically, as the salve ships came in to port, they were directed to one of the three areas to drop off the slaves.  Eddy told us that 2-3 people slept in each hut but he believes the number to be closer to 7-8.  They were remarkably small and bare.  Hard to believe that one person slept in each one let alone 7-8.

Slave huts

Slave huts

Matt at door and me swing him thru window

Matt at door and me swing him thru window

As we drove around the southern tip of the island we came upon Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary, which is one of four areas in the world where Flamingos breed.  The Sanctuary is located on the vast salt pans at the southern end of the island and home to over ten thousand flamingos.  Unfortunately we could not see very many from the road, but I was able to capture a baby and its mama.

Mama and baby Flamingo

Mama and baby Flamingo

The Willemstoren Lighthouse is still operational and warns traveling boats of the many reefs on the south side of the island.  The ruin to the right used to be the home of the caretaker of the lighthouse.  It has not been maintained well, but the basic structure is still standing.

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Lighthouse caretaker house

Lighthouse caretaker house

The last stop on our southern island tour was Lac Bay which is home to Jibe City, the windsurfing school.  It is a totally laid back atmosphere, casual, easy going group of people that have created this amazing community to teach people how to windsurf, SUP and more.  In addition to the school, they have a restaurant, massage area, sun bathing area, free wifi, and small store.  This is definitely a place we could hang out for a few days.  The professional instructors are champions.  In fact, Bonaire is home to four of the world’s top windsurfers, so you learn from the best.  Lac Bay is only a few feet deep and is a few miles to the closest reef so beginners have a huge area to practice on without any danger.  We met several of the champions as Eddy seemed to know everyone.

Jibe City Windsurfing Sails

Jibe City Windsurfing Sails

Windsurfers learning at Lac Bay

Windsurfers learning at Lac Bay

​Stay tuned for more on the Northern part of our tour.