Ovalau and Rukuruku Bay

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Ovalau island is an extinct volcano which has a oval shape. The island has a rugged mountainous interior and a coastal ring around the edges.

We anchor in Rukuruku Bay which is on the north western side of the island.

The hillsides are lush and green reminding us of the Marquesas in French Polynesia. The highest peak is 626 meters above sea level.

Over 8,000 people call Ovalau home.  And of that 8,000 over 25% live in the old capital of Levuka and 10% live in Rukuruku Bay.

There is one road that makes a circumnavigation around the entire island (50km or 30 miles).  This road connects most of the villages which are located along the coast including Fiji’s first capital, Levuka.

Rukuruku Bay

Our first stop on the island of Ovalau is Rukuruku Bay.  We stop in to do sevusevu and are immediately welcomed into the community.  Our host family, Joe and Kara invite us to church the next day.

There are two churches in this small village.  One is Catholic and one is Methodist.  The Catholic church does not have a priest so they do not have services.  So, we attend the Methodist church.

It is a rather large building with amazing acoustics.  They start the service with beating of the Laili (Fijian drum).  The church interior is very simple and only about 25 people are in attendance.  It was a rather long service of over 2 hours but the singing was beautiful.

Walk Around Town

Our host family told us we could walk to the top of the ridge to see beautiful views of the anchorage.  So, we went exploring after church with a few guides.  

The majority part of the walk was on the main dirt road. 

The road is surrounded by beautiful scenery, towering mountains, and lush hillsides.

The kids decided to take us off the main road to a small waterfall. 

Probably not the best timing as we were still in our church clothes, but off we go.

The boys had a blast showing off.  They leapt off trees and cliffs into the clear water below. 

The three photos below show one of the boys doing an impressive flip into the water.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Ovalau toward the end of July 2025.

We explore the exclusive private island of Wakaya in our last blog post.

Exploring Wakaya Island

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Welcome back to Wakaya, a private island.  We continue our explorations of this beautiful piece of Fijian paradise.

The Wakaya Island Resort and Spa allow us to explore their island, despite it being an exclusive resort.

The Chieftain’s Leap

During 1800’s the neighboring island of Ovalu successfully attacked and conquered the island of Wakaya.  The strong warriors with “white men and guns” were no match for the three local Wakayan villages.

The warriors killed the men and kidnapped the women.  The chief, 20 warriors and a few remaining villagers fled to the hills.  With no possibility of a truce, the chief decided to leap off the cliff to avoid torture and capture.  20 of his warriors followed.

The locals now refer to the cliff as “The Chieftain’s Leap.”

We drive 20 minutes down a bumpy dirt road to the bottom of the tallest cliff.

It is a short 20 minute walk to the cliff.  The path is well marked and is mostly flat.  There are a few places you have to scurry over tree roots, rocks and boulders.

At the top of the cliff, we were rewarded with amazing views.  It was truly a spectacular experience.

Staff Village

After we visited the Chieftain’s Leap we stopped by the staff village. 

There is a multi-denominational church, nurse’s station, community center, and school (K-8).

We visited the school which was by far the highlight of my year! 

The 23 students sang “Lean on Me” which made me cry and then they sang “We are the World.”  It was so beautiful!

Wakaya Island Resort and Spa

Some more pretty photos of the resort from the anchorage.

We enjoyed a most delicious meal.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We were visiting Wakaya around the end of July 2025.

Don’t miss part I of our Wakaya Stay called “Wakaya, a Private Island.”

Wakaya, a Private Island

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Wakaya Island is a private Island.  Over the past 100 years it has been the location of a brutal war, sugarcane plantation, coffee plantation, and now an exclusive private resort.  

We left the island of Makogai and headed 20nm south toward Wakaya seeking protection from the wind.  

We did not think we would be able to come here as it is a private island.  However, I reached out to the general manager of the Wakaya Island Resort and Spa and she granted us permission to anchor in the bay.

Makogai and Wakaya both share the same figure 8 shape reef.  However, the only way to get from Makogai to Wakaya is to leave the reef, sail around the outside, and enter the reef again at the north pass of Wakaya lagoon.

The entire lagoon is a marine preserve.

Wakaya’s History

1937.  Over 800 warriors from neighboring Ovalu island successfully attacked Wakaya.  The men were murdered, the women enslaved, and the Chieftain leapt off the cliff to avoid torture and capture.  

1840.  The captain of Currency Lass arrived in Levuka on Ovalu and purchased Wakaya.  All of the inhabitants were removed and only a few plantation workers remained through 1971.

1860’s First site of sugar production in Fiji.  Became a financial failure as the island was too small to support a commercial sugar plantation even with a sugarcane mill.  

1940’s proposed home for the Banabans. The Fijians and the British could not agree on a price so, they bought Rabi as the relocation site. Wakaya remained as is. 

The Resort’s Creation

1973. David Gilmour purchased Wakaya for $600,000.  He developed the island, and built the resort,  Wakaya Club and Spa. 

Mr. Gilmour and partners spent over $13 million on building the resort, airport, freshwater reservoir, golf course, jetty, staff village, church, and school. 

Mr. Gilmour founded Fiji Water and was responsible for making the island a sustainable island and resort.

2016. Cyclone Winston destroyed most of the island.

In the same year, the resort was sold to the now-convicted Seagram’s heiress Clare Bronfman who owns most of the island. Cyclone Winston, one of the strongest cyclones on record, passed directly over Wakaya leaving much of the island in complete disarray.

Back to the Roots

In late 2016, Wakaya reclaimed its roots with a solemn vow to honor the original Chief’s wishes to protect the natural beauty of the island and embrace the heritage of the original islanders, ensuring their freedom and prosperity.

Today, Wakaya Island has seen many Fijian families grow and is home to one of Fiji’s most stunning examples of a luxurious retreat in the Southern Hemisphere: Wakaya Island Resort & Spa

In 2022, the American tourism marketing company, Pacific Storytelling, partnered with Wakaya Club & Spa Resort.

Wakaya Resort & Spa

The resort can host 36 people in its 10 bures and two large houses. 

However, there was only one couple staying on property during our initial visit.

The resort honored us with a tour of the grounds. What a huge privilege.  

Sonny, a staff member, greeted us with a fresh coconut and a flower. 

We walked passed the negative edge pool, marina, reception area, and pristine grounds.

Each building has incorporated Fijian culture. At every turn you will find hand-made designs from the ceilings, to the chandeliers, hand carved poles, and ancient artifacts. 

It is truly a beautiful blend of their ancestors and modern comfort.

We visit the organic garden which supplies 60% of the food to the resort. 

The other 40% of their food is shipped in from the mainland (which is shipped from other countries). 

Including apples, oranges and other things that can’t grow on island.

They have cows, pigs, chickens, and deer!  Yep, deer.  They are the only island in Fiji that has deer.

We felt so blessed to be able to see this resort. 

It was a once in a lifetime opportunity. 

We would never be able to afford to stay here. 

Rooms start at $2,500 per night and go up to $11,000 per night – that is USD!

Wakaya on No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Wakaya at the end of July 2025.

We share the success story of the island of Makogai in our last blog post.