Category Archives: nonBoat

Celebration of Life: Eddie

We met the boat “September AM” in Tahuata a few months ago.  Onboard was Barbara and Harry and their two kids Eddie and Amelie.  Super sweet and amazing family.  Eddie and Amelie are both musicians and are very passionate about sharing their love of music.  Eddie was brilliant, compassionate, inquisitive, kind, helpful, and a truly genuine soul.

Several months after we met them, we ran into them in Papeete Marina where I introduced them to my sister.  However, we left shortly thereafter to begin the Konis Tour.  September AM had decided to move over to Mo’orea for the weekend which is only a short 25nm sail.  When they dropped the hook in Oponohu Bay tragedy struck. 

Tragic Accident

Cruisers swim on their anchor – it is a common practice and frankly, an expected one.  What does that mean?  After you drop the hook, you jump in the water to make sure the anchor is buried and not encumbered by anything (bommies, pipes, etc…).  Notably, this helps ensure your boat is secured and safe and protects the environment.

Eddie, a 14-year old son, brother, and crew member of September AM jumped into the water to check their anchor.  It is something he has done hundreds of times in dozens of anchorages.  He was a mere 2 meters away from the boat when a rented, speeding, motor boat, driven by a distracted tourist ran over Eddie. 

One, the tour boat company does not require any special license to rent or drive the boat.  Two, the tourist was unfamiliar with boating protocols (you don’t drive that close to anchored boats) or speed in those areas.  Three, the driver was not paying attention to the waters, but was chatting with a female companion.  In other words, a cataclysmic accident.  As a result, the Polynesian government opened a wrongful death investigation 5 days after the accident.  Not sure why it took 5 days to open. Hopefully, justice will be served.

Eddie did not survive this accident, but the memory of his beautiful soul will live on forever.

Celebration of Life: Eddie

The family decided to have a celebration of life Polynesian surfer style.  What does that mean?  People gather on the water, form a circle, hold hands, say prayers, share memories, and the release flowers into the sea.  This is called a Polynesian Paddle Out.

There was one small problem.  The family was located in Papeete, Tahiti. Cruisers everywhere wanted to celebrate with them.  So, we spread the word on Social Media, local media, and SSB nets.

We asked that everyone share photos from their celebration so the family could see the overwhelming show of love and support.  It is truly a blessing to see the cruising community come together for those in need. 

Photos from Maupiti (where Matt, Yannel, Missy and I) were located

We had a few local ladies from the church say a prayer and sing a beautiful Polynesian song just before releasing the flowers.

Cruisers made floral reefs, floral necklaces, boats, floats, and arrangements.  All dedicated during the ceremony.

Papeete had the largest crowd of well over 100 people. Respecting the social distancing and wearing masks.

People held Celebrations at:

  • Sandwich Bay, England
  • Papeete, French Polynesia
  • Mo’orea, French Polynesia (Cook’s Bay and Oponohu Bay)
  • Raiatea, French Polynesia (two anchorages)
  • Maupiti, French Polynesia
  • Huahine, French Polynesia (South and North Bay)
  • Taha’a, French Polynesia
  • Tahuata, Marquesas, French Polynesia
  • Marshall Islands
  • Isla San Marcos, Mexico
  • San Blas, Guna Yala, Panama
  • Bocas, Panama
  • United Kingdom
  • Malolo Lailai Island, Fiji
  • Bay of Virgins, New Zealand
  • South Coast France
  • Marazion, Cornwall
  • New Caldonia
  • Liencres, Spain
  • Hermosa Beach, California
  • San Diego
  • San Francisco
  • Seattle

In addition to the celebration of life, the family had the casket designed and drawn by a local tattoo artist.  – Mana’o Tattoo Studio Tahiti who stepped up at the last minute to create this amazing tribute on his casket.  The symbols and designs represent Eddie’s life, dreams, and interests.

Equally important, the family created a Just Giving Page to help raise $15,000 to transport the casket and his body back home to the U.K.  The family will use any additional monies to create a fund to help children with education and music.  Please contribute.

Together with the support of the local community, their friends and family and the cruising community, the family was able to raise enough money (15,000 euros) to bring Eddie’s body home.

Here Is a link to the video of the TV interview in French Polynesia

Instead of focusing on this horrific accident, we are rejoicing in his life and the fact that the cruising community came together for this family.

Remembering Eddie…after all it is about loving thy neighbor. In the hope that we all can change, be aware, be careful, and respect the water.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

Third Millennium Cross

Monuments of Coquimbo

Coquimbo is peppered with beautiful monuments all over town.  Specifically, the the Millennium Cross, the Mosque, the Mirador, Forte, and fresh markets.

CRUZ DEL TERCER MILENIO – “THE MILLENNIUM CROSS”

The Cruz del Tercer Milenio is Spanish for “Third Millennium Cross”.  This 93-meter-high Monumental Cross is made of concrete. It includes a museum, temple, bell tower, park and stations of the cross. The cross is located a top a hill overlooking the two bays and sits 197 meters above sea level.  Construction began in 1999 and it was completed in 2001.  Notably, this is considered the tallest monument in South America.

  • Cruz del Tercer Mlenio is supported by three bases which represent the Holy Trinity.
  • 10 columns represent the 10 commandments.
  • 12 pillars represent the 12 apostles.
  • It only took 10 months to build the main structure.
  • The monument commemorates the 2000 birthday of Christ.
  • The entire structure was built between two large rocks.
Third Millennium Cross

Third Millennium Cross

You enter the temple through ornate, massive, carved metal doors.  Once inside you are immediately struck by the beautiful simplicity of the temple.  Until, that is you look up to the alter where a vision of gold twinkles in the light and captures your attention. Seeing that from afar draws you into the temple.

Entrance to Cruz

Entrance to Cruz del Tercer Milenio

The bell tower was constructed with a delicate metal alloy that allows it to reproduce in high fidelity, 9 musical notes of the scale. It is operated with an Italian mechanism which can perform over 400 melodies.

Bell Tower of Cruz del Tercer Milenio

Bell Tower of Cruz del Tercer Milenio

The stations of the cross:

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You take an elevator to the arms of the cross where you have a 360-degree view of Coquimbo.  The arrows show you where Sugar Shack is anchored.

View from the T of the Cruz

View from the T of the Cruz

PLAYA HERRADURA – Mirador

Playa Herradura has a few nice lookouts, or miradors.  We took a walk up to one of them and were pleasantly surprised to find many beautiful sculptures.  Coupled with the view, these skinny sculptures provided interesting stories and picturesque photos.

Mirador Playa Herradura

Mirador Playa Herradura

MOSQUE OF COQUIMBO – CENTRO MOHAMMED VI para el DIALOGO DE LAS CIVILIZACIONS

The Mohammed VI Center for the Dialogue of Civilizations, better known as the Mosque , is a cultural center. The minaret of this mosque is a scaled replica of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech , Morocco .

Its construction began in 2004 with the help of artisans and builders from Morrocco. The mosque was inaugurated on March 14, 2007.  If you would like to read more on the Mosque, here is a really interesting blog that goes into detail on the history of the Mosque.

Unfortunately, the Mosque was closed for renovations so we could not go inside.  With this in mind, we were only able to walk around the outside.

Mosque

Mosque

FUERTE COQUIMBO

Also known as Fuerte Lambert, this former 19th century fort offers picturesque views.  Originally built in 1865 to guard the entrance during the war with Spain.  The unique, brick fort was named after Carlos Lambert who reconstructed it in 1879 to protect his ports against possible attacks from the Peruvian Navy during the Pacific War.

Fort Lambert no longer has an operational role militarily, but it is a popular tourist destination because of the views it provides across the Bay of Coquimbo.  There is not much to see at this forte except a few good photo ops.  With this in mind, this fort might have been a good replica of the original fort prior to the renovations.  Now it sort of looks fake and too modern.

Forte de Coquimbo

Forte de Coquimbo

Notice the pirate tourist ship in the background – talk about nice timing.  It is important to realize that they threw away the key.

Forte de Coquimbo

Forte de Coquimbo

PIRATE SHIPS – AHOY!

At the wharf, they have several pirate ships outfitted with all the trimmings including live pirates.  They will sheppard you around the bay in search of gold and other valuable treasures. Evidently, they are “real” pirates as you can see them in the above photos while we were at the Forte de Coquimbo.

Muelle Morgran Pirate Ship

Muelle Morgran Pirate Ship

TERMINAL PESQUERO

Large fish market brimming with fisherman selling their daily catch.  Breathing through your mouth is a must as the fish smells accost your senses like running into a brick wall.   Despite the smell we forged ahead to try to identify the huge variety of fish.

The fish come in off the boats and are loaded into trays.  Next, they are cleaned and hauled into the fish market to sell.  In some cases, they are cleaned inside the market while others are sold right off the dock.  An unidentified delicacy can be seen at the bottom left photo.  It looked like a hard piece of coral. Seeing that it is a crustacean we shied away.  They gently cut off the tip and then scoop out this red gloppy thing to get to the meat.  No, we did not try it.

Terminal Pesquero Coquimbo

Terminal Pesquero Coquimbo

There were several forgotten boats on the coast…always makes you wonder what the heck happened. From now on this will be known as the bird perch…

Fishing boat that has seen better days

Fishing boat that has seen better days

Ship wreck

Ship wreck

Feria de Abastos de Coquimbo

Fresh fruit and veggie market

Caldera

Chile Ports: Caldera, Calderilla, Salado

We received a proper send off from the lobos, dolphins and birds as we left the Chile Port of Antofagasta.  We are headed to Caldera which is about 200nm away.  The journey should take us 1.5 days with some wind even though the current and waves are going against us.

Arturo, from Club de Yates, led us out of our first Chile Port and through the foamy mess (see below top left photo.  We had lots of lobos sightings along the way.  It was super cute because they pop their head out of the water, look around, dip under, and pop up again.  They do this in a circle of about 5-6 other lobos.

The landscape is beautiful despite not having any greenery.  Rolling hills in various shades of tans and browns.

We managed to catch three of the same type of fish. We released them all as we could not identify them, let us know if you know what type of fish these are – maybe part of the tuna family?

Unknown Fish

Unknown Fish

You’ll notice the landscape is really barren and dry.  We are definitely in the dry zone.  They may get 1” of rain per year, but not every year.  It is strange to me to see beaches near the desert but that is exactly what you see when you come to Northern Chile.

We had zero wind for this trip and glassy water conditions during the day.  At night we had swirly 1m waves, but it was a full on motor the entire way.  Matt did a wonderful live blog on 27 January, so I won’t repeat his beautiful words.  Check it out here.  We cut off one engine and slowed down the other engine so we could arrive during daylight.  After 218 nm, 45 hours and 20 minutes we arrived in Caldera.

The Chile Port of Caldera bay is nice and large.  We anchored near the Club de Yachts.  As we watched our anchor, many yacht club members came by (kayak, boats) to say “hello” and welcome us to town.  We of course found more lobos.  The interesting thing is the area by the beach was set against huge, beautiful rock formations which gave the entire area a unique and stunning look.

Club de Yates Caldera

Club de Yates Caldera

We enjoyed this small town even though we only stayed for one day.  We checked in with the Armada, had a not so tasty lunch at La Chispa de Dona Luisa, and walked around.  The yacht club and the beaches were pretty busy, but that is not surprising as it is Sunday, family day.

Most shops were closed, but we stumbled across the Caldera Railway Station which was commissioned in 1850.  This train terminal had the first train depart in South America on 25 December 1851.

We also came across a statue of San Pedro Caldera, lots of funny looking manikins, a hungry shark, an old ship perched on to of a tourist building roof, and a crooked Caledera sign,

Sightseeing in Caldera

Sightseeing in Caldera

We found the local markets, hardware stores, and “tourist” traps.  Mostly this tiny town offered beach toys and stuff at the local tiendas.  We celebrated our new town with a beer.

Matt enjoying a Kuntsman Beer

Matt enjoying a Kuntsman Beer

We motored over to the next bay, Puerto Caladerilla for our second night.  The town was really, really small and we did not see any places to dock the dinghy.  So, we enjoyed a nice evening onboard.

Main photo of me next to Caldera colorful sign

CALDERILLA

We left late in the afternoon and were headed to the Chile Port of Calderilla which is a small bay less than 10nm from Caldera.  We made a light dinner and called it an early night.  The bay was relatively calm, very quiet and peaceful.  We got up early the next morning to continue heading south.  As we left the bay, we grabbed a few shots of the rocky coast.

Rocky Chilean Coastline

Rocky Chilean Coastline

BAHIA SALADO

It was another windless day but at least it was not on our nose.  We were able to let the jib out for a few short stints which gave us an extra knot or two.  Super calm seas, blue skies, and lots of lobos playing in the water.

The Chile Port of Bahia Salado is a very isolated bay.  There are 5 structures that appear to be housing compounds for the mine that operates just over the hill.  They could also be summer homes, but there is literally nothing around except these compounds and the mine.  How far do they have to go to get bread or milk or beer?

Bahia Salado - Housing Compounds

Bahia Salado – Housing Compounds

After we finished dinner, around 8pm, we watched two guys in kayaks make their way from shore to our boat.  Somewhere half way between, one fell overboard.  At this point they were about ¼ mile from shore.  As I finished up the dishes, Matt said they were getting closer.  Interesting.  I peeked and it appeared that one guy was pulling the other guy who was still in the water.  The guy in the water was pulling his kayak while holding on to his friend’s kayak.  Poor thing it was freezing outside and in the water!

They asked for help to bring them back to shore. I wish I would have grabbed my camera as it was the funniest image.  We tied one kayak with the guy still in it to Sweetie.  The other guy jumped in the dinghy as we then tied his kayak to the back of Sweetie.  He was in a t-shirt and shorts when he should have been in a full wetsuit.  He was shivering in the dink while his friend was having the time of his life riding the kayak as Sweetie towed him to shore.  It was hysterical.

Sunset in Bahia Salado

Sunset in Bahia Salado

Miles traveled from Calderilla to Bahia Salado 38.6 which took us about 6.5 hours at an average speed of 5.6kts.