Category Archives: Vanuatu

A Death Defying Leap: Land Part II

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In southern Pentecost, the locals believe Naghol (land diving) will bring them a fruitful yam harvest, good health, and prosperity to the community.  In addition, Naghol is an act of courage for the men and a right of passage for the young boys to enter manhood.

Be sure to read Part I of our Naghol / Land Diving Series called “Naghol, the Birth of Bungee Jumping.”  

Please be aware that there is nudity in some of the images below.

Ceremony Day

We had several of our cruising friends join us for this monumental occasion.  We all anchored in Wali Bay on the southern end of Pentecost.  From our anchorage we could see the tower – how exciting!

We arrive on shore to a beautiful welcome display created by Elleen Wano, the Londot Village spokesperson.  If you are in the area during April, May or June and want to see this spectacular ceremony, contact Elleen Wano (elleenwano66@gmail.com) or phone +678.766.1274, +678.567.3932.  

She gave a beautiful welcome speech, a highlight of her village, Londot, and a brief history of Naghol.

Then we all made our way up to the tower.  I was so excited and nervous and overjoyed to be able to witness this rare public display of the Vanuatuan culture.  The dancers are from the Bunlop Kastom village (settlements, without modern technology who try to live as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago). Traditionally, the women do not wear anything over their breasts, but many opted to cover themselves with leaves for modesty in front of the tourists,

Just as we are all getting settled on the side of the hill, as nobody wanted to sit on the benches down below (except the locals), the Bunlop Kastam singers and dancers started chanting.

The men are dressed in their traditional nambas (penis sheath) and they hold sticks.   The women are dressed in grass skirts and some have leaves covering their breasts (but traditionally they are bare chested).  

The namba is a leaf that is wrapped around the penis, then around the waist. They are easily removed and replaced throughout the day.

The men and women chant and sing during the entire ceremony.  They provide strength and support to the jumpers and praise to their gods. 

The chief of Bunlop Kastom Village was also the constructor of this tower.  He oversaw the entire ceremony and stood by the tower as each jumper leapt off their platform. 

First Jumper: 6 year old Boy

The first jumper was a 6 year old boy who jumped off the first platform.  He did not seem to phased by the height or the incredible feat he was about to perform.  He bravely stepped forward and leapt off the platform.

Second Jumper: 12 year old Boy

The second jumper was a 12 year old boy.  This was his first jump and unfortunately the fear took over.  It took him quite awhile to actually take the plunge and when he did – he did not jump properly.  He tucked his feet under him and jumped in a seated position which garnered lots of laughs from the locals.  The real problem was he could have been seriously injured as he did not have the proper form, but in the end he was alright.

Third Jumper:  Mid-20 year old 

Our third jumper was much more experienced, had perfect form, and received lots of applause.  He truly is head first into the ground and somehow he walks away uninjured.

Fourth Jumper:  Mid-30 year old

Now the fourth jumper went to the 2nd tallest platform and managed to do a little show boating prior to his jump.  He waived his arms in the air as he praised his gods and chanted along with the singers just before he plunged to the ground.

Final Jumper:  The Champion

There is a Naghol champion and he belongs to the Bunlop Kastom village.  We had the extreme pleasure of seeing him jump and he did not disappoint.  He casually walks out to the edge of the platform as he addresses the crowd and praises his gods.  He chants and sings and manages to balance on the edge of the platform for well over 2 minutes.

Then with expert precision, he dives straight off the platform (horizontal to the floor), before gravity takes over and he goes head first toward the ground.  He does appear to be a little phased once he is helped up and walks away. But, in the end he was fine and the spectators were enraptured by his jump.  Elleen, the spokesperson was saying how the villagers would be talking about this dive for a very long time.  It is understandable why he is the champion of the Pentecost land diving (Naghol).

Matt Climbs the Tower

After the ceremony, they allowed the male tourists to climb the tower.  I was really hoping to be able to do so as well but that was not happening. Matt said that the branches were a bit rickety and wobbled a bit, but he was able to climb to the top for the view.

Matt’s view from the top of the tower looking out and down.

Meeting the Bunlop chief and performers.

We caught up with the ladies.  I wish they did not have a frown on their faces as they have lovely smiles, but alas that is not their way.  They were absolutely curious to see the photos afterwards and giggled as I showed them (bottom left photo).

Matt and Rena enjoying the ceremony.  Elleen, in the red and white dress behind Rena, looking over all of the guests and ensuring their safety and enjoyment.

It was an absolutely memorable experience!  We hope that you enjoyed this blog, learned  little something along the way, and are as impressed with these brave young men from the Bunlop Kastom village as we were.  

Don’t miss Part I of our Naghol / Land Diving series.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred toward the end of June.  

Naghol the Birth of Bungee Jumping: Part I

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What is Naghol?  It is what we foreigners call Land Diving and it is said to be the birth of bungee jumping.  Men will jump from a 30 meter tower with vines tied to their ankles, headfirst as they plummet to the ground, reaching 45 miles per hour!

Please be aware there is some nudity in the photos below.

There is a very informative National Geographic documentary on land diving in the 1980s.  I think you can find it here (or google it)

The History of Naghol

Legend has it that the first Vanuatuan jumper was a woman.  She was trying to escape her abusive husband, climbed a Nabanga tree and jumped.  He followed her, leapt, and died, unaware that his wife had secured liana vines to her ankles.  For some time, only women participated in the dive until the male elders decided that they should dive to prove their courage.  And it is said that it was against their customs to see the ladies with their skirts over their heads.

It is believed that the spirits of the many women who jumped in earlier times are around to protect the tower.  Because of this, women are not allowed near the tower until the ceremony day.  And more importantly, women are not allowed to touch the tower at all.  If a woman touches the tower, the tower will be torn down and all jumping will cease for the season.

It is also said that the men are afraid the women will curse the tower and put the jumper at risk of injury so they ban them from everything except the actual ceremony.

The Belief

The naghol ceremony is performed for a number of reasons.   Naghol marks the start of the yam harvest season, April – June.  It is believed that a good dive helps ensure a bountiful yam harvest.   

Land diving is also considered an expression of masculinity as it demonstrates the boldness of a warrior.  This traditional event is not merely a test of courage; it is a significant cultural milestone marking the transition from boyhood to manhood. 

Villagers believe that land diving can enhance the health and strength of the divers. A successful dive can remove the illness and physical problems associated with the wet season. 

In addition, it is a spiritual act to appease the gods and bring prosperity to the community.

Land Diving Today

Naghol is only performed in southern Pentecost by men.  There are 3 villages that perform this extraordinary ceremony:  Ratap village (a true Kastom village), Londot village (the one we saw) and a small village by the airport.

The yams are ready to harvest at the precise time that the vines are at their best elasticity in April, May, and June of each year.  It is said that climate change has impacted their vines and has prevented them from growing as fast and as tall as they used to be.  This in turns forces the jumpers to build shorter towers and/or jump from lower platforms.

There are many, many rules that must be followed when participating in a Naghol ceremony.  For example, women are not allowed near the tower until the ceremony day.  Men are allowed to watch the build and the preparations, but women are not.  Men are allowed to climb the tower, but women are not allowed to even touch it.  They don’t even want women to walk across the dirt landing field.

The Constructor & Builders

Each tower is designed by a “constructor” and there are very few constructors in Pentecost.  It is not uncommon for the village chief to be a constructor.  It takes 20-30 men about 5-6 weeks to construct the tower.  During this time they are secluded from women.

At first glance, the tower looks like a crude and flimsy construction with branches lashed together.  But upon further inspection, you discover that it is quite an amazing piece of engineering. 

After the show we walked the beach and came across some potential future constructors.  An elder was showing the young boys how to construct the tower and platforms.  It was with great joy that the boys showed us their tower.

The Tower

The tower is constructed with branches and lianas vines found in the forest near the village.  The core of the tower is constructed near a large, solid, dead trunk of a tree, and a pole scaffolding tied together with vines stabilizing it.  The tower is made to look like a human body (use your imagination on this one). 

The men freshly cut trees, so that the tower can remain strong, to construct the body.  Then they clear a site for the tower, and remove rocks from the soil.  The soil is tilled to soften the ground. 

Every branch is placed in specific order to provide the divers with every opportunity to survive the massive leap. 

The Lianas / Vines

The lianas vines are carefully selected for their strength and elasticity. They need to be supple, elastic, and full of sap in order to be safe.  The lashings look willy nilly, but there is an art form to securing the branches together that they have mastered over the years.

The expert ways they are able to wind the lianas around each pole, stick and branch to allow for the weight of several men weighing well over 90-100 kilos is fascinating.

The tower has several lianas supporting it and tied to other strong trees.  

The Platforms

Several platforms come out about two meters from the front of the tower, supported by several struts. The lowest platform is around 10 meters, and the highest platform is near the top. They build one platform for each diver based on his level, weight, and size. 

During the jump, the platform supports snap, causing the platform to hinge downward and absorb some of the force from falling.  The far left photo shows 1 platform (at the top) ready to use and two collapsed platforms below it.   The top right photo shows a collapsed platform and the bottom right shows an unused platform.

Matt went up to see the tower the day before the ceremony (I was not allowed to go with him).  He captured these young boys learning how to become future builders and or maybe even constructors.  They certainly are fearless.

The Jumpers

During each ceremony they will have anywhere from 5-10 divers.  They “perform” based on varying levels depending on their personal ranking in the village hierarchy, the newest and youngest at the bottom.  The ceremony is performed every Tuesday and Saturday so the jumpers leap off a 30 meter tower twice per week for 3 months.

According to the Guinness World Records, the g-force experienced by those at their lowest point in the dive is the greatest experienced in the non-industrialized world by humans.

The men bravely climb the tower to their platform wearing only their nambas with a determined heart, and courageous soul. The men are not allowed to wear any lucky charms during the dive.

The performers chant, sing and dance to accompany their jumper on his journey to their platform.  The singing will crescendo as the jumper prepares to leap and then subsequently plummets to the ground.

With a final prayer on his lips, arms outstretched toward the sky, they prepare to jump.  They plunge up to 30meters (120′), head first.  See our svSugarShack Instagram account for amazing videos and stay tuned for our next blog post on the actual Naghol ceremony.

The Life Saving Vines around their Ankles

The vines are selected by a village elder and matched with each jumper’s weight without any mechanical calculations.  The lianas are chosen for their elasticity and strength and are tested and measured to ensure they are the right length for the jumper and platform. If the vine is too long, the diver can hit the ground hard, but if the vine is too short, then the diver can collide with the tower.

The ends of the vines are wrapped to keep them fresh and strong.  When the jumper has climbed to his platform, the shredded vines are unwrapped to allow the fibers to be looped around the ankles of the jumpers.  

After the show, we walked further down the road and came across Londot’s “training tower.”  It was much shorter than the actual tower, but I am sure still frightening for the first time jumpers.

It is a lot to take in, observe, and understand.  This spiritual ritual is so very rarely experienced and only found Southern Pentecost.  It was a huge honor to learn about their culture and this ritual.

Stay tuned as our next blog is all about the Naghol and actual land diving.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post occurred toward the end of June.  In our last blog post we adventure around the island of Efate.

Around the Island of Efate

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It was time to explore the island of Efate by car.  This island has a rugged coast line with a single road that circumnavigates the entire island.  There are fast flowing rivers, cascading waterfalls, isolated sandy bays, lagoons, and white and black sand beaches.  The coastal road meanders around the perimeter of the island.

This is a long post as I shared all of our stops on this all day adventure.  Here is a recap of the places we stopped on our day around Efate:

  • Secret Garden and Cultural Center
  • Tanna Coffee Cafe Distribution House
  • Mele (Tebakesa) Cascade Falls
  • Roawia Turtle Snorkeling Adventure
  • WWII Museum
  • Top Rock Views and Snorkeling
  • Hot Hot Natural Springs

My friends on Moana (Rena, Chris, and Helena) rented a mini moke for the day and I came along for the adventure.

Secret Garden and Cultural Center

We did not have an itinerary or any specific destinations.  We just wanted to see what we could see along the way.  Our first stop was the Secret Garden and Cultural Center.  Unfortunately, it was closed and had been closed since covid.  It was destroyed during Cyclone Pam and has not been rebuilt as there is no labor on Vanuatu.  Evidently, Australia and New Zealand recruit young Vanuatu workers and pay them more.  So the young people don’t want to work in their own country.  The woman who lived and worked here was lovely and super happy for the company.  However, we could not walk around as everything was falling to pieces – so very sad.

Tanna Coffee Distribution Center

Tanna Coffee is pretty famous here in the Pacific.  We visited what we thought was the distribution place while we were in Tanna.  However, we found out that was an offshoot of the original Tanna Coffee which has a distribution place in Efate.  Terry the owner was very kind and gave us a tour.

Terry employs 16 workers who are responsible for a plot of land in Tanna.  They grow, harvest, pick, ferment, pulp, and prepare the coffee beans and then send them to Terry to complete the processing, packaging, market, and promote the final product: medium roast, dark roast, and expresso.

He cooks/bakes his beans in these machines below.  25-30 seconds for medium roast.  Another 25-30 seconds will destroy the bean.  Expresso is just half medium and half dark roast. The beans below show the “raw” bean, then the dark roast (shiny with a little natural oil), and the medium roast.

Time to Cool Off at the Cascade Falls

We stop at Mele Cascades aka Tebakesa Spring Pool and Bar.  There are several, clear, aquamarine pools that you can enjoy along with dozens of small cascading waterfalls.  We arrived on a Sunday and even though it was open, the restaurant and bar were closed.  No matter as it meant fewer people so we had the place to ourselves.

I loved that these local young boys were taking a bath.

The facilities include changing rooms, showers, toilets, restaurant, and bar and lots of seating areas.  The fee to get to the pools was $1500 Vatu but if you wanted to hike to the waterfall you had to pay the Chinese owner $3000 Vatu ($30USD).  We opted not to pay for the waterfall.

The water was very refreshing and absolutely beautiful.

My leg is still healing from an infection so I could not actually jump in, but Rena, Chris and Helena had a fabulous time.

Roawia Turtle and Snorkeling Tours

We stumbled across Roawai Turtle Snorkeling Tours which was a nice surprise.  Totally off the beaten path, not on the main road, and a wee bit hard to find.  A super nice woman explained that they offer snorkeling tours where you can see their coral restoration project, nemo city, turtles, and giant clams.   Afterwards she treated us to a nice lunch.

WWII Museum

This was incredibly disappointing and in my opinion, disrespectful to veterans.  This super small building with “rust in peace” on the outside is a major tour destination and stop.  Inside this disorganized shed are tons and tons of bottles.  Mostly coca cola bottles.  But among the bottles are a few relics which he claims are from WWII.  

There is a good chance they are really from WWII as the U.S. had an encampment on Efate and several U.S. planes crashed right outside this bay.  However, the displays are dirty, unkept, not labeled and totally disorganized.

Top Rock and Look Out

Terry from the Tanna Coffee recommended we stop here and we are sure glad we did.  Had we not already had three swimming excursions, we would have snorkeled here too.  This is extremely well kept rounds, with lots of signs, and well groomed paths.  

You can go to the look out point where there is a local restaurant with spectacular views.

The hillsides are made of coral and the waters were crystal clear.

You can also go down to the water where you can snorkel in their fish filled waters and visit a cave.  

Natural Hot Springs

Our last stop were the natural hot springs.  These are not normal hot springs as they are not maintained, kept up or really very clean.  But there were locals who braved the extremely hot temperatures (we dipped a toe and yelped).

A map around Efate.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind schedule.  This blog post occurred in Mid-June 2024.  In our last blog we showed you how Efate wow’s us with their fire show!