Category Archives: Vanuatu

Fanla Festival: A Mystical Culture

The ROM or “masked” dance is known for its detailed and complex masks, elaborate costumes, and rhythmic drumming.  It is performed by the chiefs, elders, and sorcerers during special ceremonies, grade-taking, and occasionally for performances.

In this post I will share with you the history and magic of the cone shaped masks.  In our next blog, you will encounter the extraordinary ROM dance.

Legend of the Mask

The two-sided ROM mask represents good and evil.  The legend says that a beautiful young woman from Olal (a village on the North tip of Ambrym) created the first ROM costume to gain the love of a young man. She donned the ROM outfit and enticed him into the forest where she revealed herself to him and fatefully told him how she made the costume.

The man did not love the woman, but he did love the mask.  So, he killed the woman, took the mask, and sold the rights to make the copies of the costume to fellow tribesmen.  He traded the rights for pigs which he used to gain the next grade and improve his status.

The belief that stands for the “good” stems from a young mother who had a baby who could not be soothed.  It cried uncontrollably so she created a mask to bring it joy.

How is the ROM Costume Made?

The ancient ritual is shrouded in secrecy. Costumes are kept in strict hiding until the ceremony begins.  If a male takes a “peek”, they must pay the fine of one pig and endure a whipping with a stinging plant.

If a woman watched any process in the making of the costume then she would be killed.

The ROM mask consists of a tall, conical, brightly painted, banana fiber mask, with a face that resembles a baboon.  Each side is unique and clearly shows the fight between good and evil.  The top part is adorned with feathers, leaves, and flowers.

The dancer’s bodies are adorned in a thick, somewhat intimidating cloak of dried bananas leaves.  In their hand they carry hand woven, cone shaped weapons to ward off evil spirits.

Each costume, especially the mask is made with great sorcery and embedded with magic.

High ranking chiefs and warriors who dance alongside the Rom dancers wearing nambas.  They will often wear red flowers in their hair to symbolize pride, majesty, knowledge and strength, as well as a boar tooth necklace to indicate power and wealth.

Some chiefs will wear a namale leaf on their back to convey peace, while others wear white bird feathers to suggest both peace and safety.

The Rights to the Mask

Only men who are of a certain grade can buy the rights to make a mask.  When a man wishes to ascend the village hierarchy, he must purchase (with pigs and money) the rights to learn how to make the mask and embed it with spirits and power.  They will create a pattern and spend an extensive amount of time learning the rules that determine specific colors and shapes of the mask as well as the type of magic it will possess.

The first mask design will be very simple and will only cost a few pigs and money.  As the man ascends in grades, his mask will become more complicated and will cost a lot more. As the man ascends, he must pay with more pigs and money to learn the teachings of a more complicated designs.  The right to make or wear a sacred mask carries high costs in the Ambrym society.

Once they buy the rights to a design they own it for life.  They will be the only one that can replicate the design, carve the design, and draw the design for eternity.  

Each design has powerful magic embedded into it which is why it is destroyed after the ceremony.  Part of the teaching is not only how to create the mask, but how to embed it with the spirits.  ROM masks usually invoke the spirits of the ancestors and are important agents of social control.

Mass Destruction

Immediately following the ceremony, the creator of the costume will destroy the mask and burn the banana leaves.  They believe that the spirit within lives on and will haunt and plague the wearer if it is not destroyed.

Although, I think that is an ancient belief and practice.  Why do you ask?  Well we were told to tell other cruisers to come anytime to see the ROM dance.  But if it takes 2 weeks to make the costumes and they are destroyed after each ceremony, then how can someone come to see it anytime??

After the ceremony we were allowed to take photos of the costumes.  However, nobody was allowed to get closer than 3 meters.

This website has interesting insight into the ROM mask.

Coming up next is the very exciting ROM dance which was a profound and riveting privilege to witness.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  The ROM dance at the Fanla Festival took place on 11 July 2024.  Did you read about Fanla, the authentic kastom village where the ROM dance takes place?

Tam Tams and the Beautiful Art of Carving

After our lovely tour of the Fanla village we are finally taken to the nasara, their sacred site.  The nasara is a 400-year old concept which brings together the surrounding villagers for special ceremonies.

It is a short walk through the forest to the nasara which is a wide-open clearing.  This particular nasara is the only one used for grade taking ceremonies and the ROM dance.  It’s unique and privileged status is highlighted with the mass amounts of tam tams surrounding it.

Tam Tams

What is a tam tam and why is it so valuable?  A tam tam is a hollowed out slit drum that is placed in sacred grounds.  They range from 1-4 meters in height and usually have the bottom portion buried in the ground.

They are a symbol of wealth, prestige, and are markers of one’s level of initiation (grade level).

The tam tams are made from large trees within the breadfruit family.  This type of tree already holds significance to the villagers as a sacred, magical tree.

The Tam Tam Carver (Creator)

The process of making the slit drum is a very important ritual. There are many types of carvers in Vanuatu, but the ones that have the legal right to carve tam tams only reside in Ambrym.  Carvers have to pay for the right to carve the design (or face).  The fee of pigs and yams is very expensive.

The carver of a tam tam is also a sorcerer.  He is responsible for imbuing the tam tam with spiritual power.  Special measures are taken throughout the carving process to ensure that it is kept secret.

The tam tams are carved to honor their ancestors and designs/faces are unique to each carver.  This carver pays for the “rights” to this design and is the only one who can replicate it.

Some tam tams are carved with more than one face.  However, you have to be a high grade level to be able to carve a multi faced tam tam and it will cost you several valuable pigs.  No tam tam is allowed to have more than 5 faces.  Such drums are quite rare as the carver must pay extra in order to create each additional face. 

We found 2 two-faced tam tams while we were at Atchin island (which is near the North tip of Malekula).  It is such a rare find to come across a multiple face tam tam in its original environment.  We are so darn lucky!

Here is a post by someone else where they have more multiple faced tam tams.

What is their Purpose?

When the carving is complete, a hole is dug about 1.5 meters and the slit drum is sunk vertically or at a slight angle.  This will allow the drummer easier access to the drum during performances.

Tam tams are used during sacred ceremonies and they are used to send messages of birth, death, impending war, circumcision, meetings, and dance.

The rhythmic beating of the slit drums will shake the ground under your feet and can be heard for many miles.  Matt did not attend the 2nd day of the Fanla Festival and was out on his SUP.  He heard the drumming from the sea which is at least 5 miles away from the village in the mountains.

Stone or Lava Carvings

Stones have long been a source of magic in Ambrym.  So, if you are lucky enough to find a stone carving it has extra special meanings.  Stone carvings will usually cost more and are harder to find.

Often you will find special stones or rocks near the tam tams which represent the chief’s or elders ranking.

Stone or lava tikis are usually located near banyon trees to protect the spirit of the tree.  Male banyan trees are sacred and tabu for women to go near. The banyan tree near the nasara had two lava tikis. 

The festival had lots of carvings for sale and I was lucky enough to purchase the smaller, stone tiki below.

Wooden Carvings

Ambrym is known for its carvers and many of them live near Fanla.  So, we had a wide variety of carvings to shop from.  They had tiki statues, masks, necklaces, pig killing hammers, carving tools, and flutes.

Some of the work is really intricate while others are simplistic.  The prices reflected the detail of the work but usually ranged from 2,000vt to 80,000vt ($20-$800 USD).  

Here are several more stone, lava and wood carvings that were located around the nasara in Fanla.

Carving Demonstration

We were able to participate in a carving demonstration while we were anchored in Ranon. Starting from a round piece of wood, already shaved of its husk.  He used modern tools like a hammer and chisel.  He started on the face, then the ROM hat, then the top using a machete and a saw to add detail.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  The Fanla Festival occurred in mid-July 2024.  Fanla, an authentic kastom village tour occurred in our last blog post..

The Authentic Kastom Village of Fanla

We came to Ambrym to see the legendary Fanla Rom Dance Festival.  This festival is held in the small, remote village of Fanla located up in the mountains.  Fanla is a true kastom village which is dedicated to preserving the Vanuatu traditional ways in culture, religion, economics, art, and magic.

We anchor at Ranon Bay which is the closest anchorage to Fanla.  This is a beautiful, large bay with a lovely village near the shore (see our blog post on Ranon).  

The Fanla Festival Program

This is a two day festival featuring ROM dances, black magic, sand drawing, and the rarely seen grade taking ritual.  Grade taking is specific to Ambrym and is where the men perform certain activities and pay significant amounts of money and pig tusks to increase their rank in the village.

There is so much to share about each event within the festival that I have broken them out into separate blog posts.  However, here are the highlights of what is to come:

Fanla Festival: ROM, a Mystical Cultural Event

The ROM dance is a sacred, magical event.  A few men are selected to perform the ROM dance as part of their grade taking ceremony.  The ROM dance includes very elaborate costumes and a hand made tribal mask.

This will be two parts:  One on the actual ROM dance and one on the beautiful, magical ROM masks and costumes.

Fanla Festival: Black Magic and Sand Drawing

An sorcerer performs several variations of sand drawing. Sand drawing is drawn from memory without lifting the finger and is a complete, complex pattern.

Drum and flute demonstrations will be played, several variations of dances will be performed and we will witness a small display of mysterious black magic performed by a special sorcerer, ‘the man blong blak majik’.

Fanla Festival: Grade Taking Ceremony

We witness two chiefs elevate from a level 11 grade to a level 12 grade which makes them the highest ranking men in all of Vanuatu.  The ceremony, steeped in tradition, includes several dances, songs, chants, and pig killing.  

But before we get to the festival, let’s talk about the very unique kastom village of Fanla.

The Kastom Village of Fanla

Fanla is located through the forest and up in the mountain. We hired a guide to show us the way to Fanla, since we were not 100% certain of its location. Freddy Roromal came down from Fanla to show us the “shortcut which would cut 20 minutes off our hike.  The route along the road takes 60-75 minutes and our short cut route took 45 minutes.

It is a relatively easy “walk” albeit mostly up hill.  When it rains it becomes very muddy but it is not a difficult climb. 

Fanla is one of the oldest villages in Ambrym and they have the two highest grade chiefs in all of Vanuatu.  This kastom village itself has a mix of concrete houses and traditional huts.  It appears many of the young people went to larger villages and returned with money to build strong, more secure homes for their families.

Fanla boasts of one of the most unique banyan trees in the country.  It is a female banyan tree that has a naturally grown “cave” on the back side of the tree.  The elders of the village used to hide skulls in the cave to prevent their enemies from stealing them.

From the front, the tree looks like a typical banyan tree.  But as you round the backside you see the very large opening.  They have strategically placed two stone carved tikis to protect the tree.  Once you walk in you turn to the left and there is a further path into the center of the tree.

Tour of Fanla

We continue our tour of the Fanla Village and come to the grave site of the eldest chief of the village.  This is chief who met Captain Cook when he arrived to Ambrym.  The chief gave Captain Cook a yam.  When the chief offered the yam to him he said “yam rim” which means my yam for you.  Captain Cook thought that he said the name of the island is  “yam rim.” This is how Ambrym got its name.

In exchange for the yam, Captain Cook presented the chief with a piece of metal. The chief created a special carving tool using the metal piece. This special tool is used in the highest levels of the grade taking ceremony carvings.  The chief showed us the 250 year old tool and allowed us to hold it.  It is amazing to me to be able to hold such an authentic piece of history in my hands!

The top photo is the burial site.  The villagers lay out the moss covered stones in the shape of pig tusks (which is the highest honor).  The chief earns hundreds of tusks over his lifetime and they are all buried with him.  This site is considered “tabu.” You can only visit with express permission from the current chief and with a guide.

The top right photo is the “secret” place of the high chief. The chief chooses to live alone and prepare his own meals.  He does not accept visitors (not even his wife). More on this in the grade-taking ceremony blog.

Me, the Leader?

As many of you know, I am extremely active in the cruising community.  I have produced 8 compendiums for various countries which are complete sailing guides (200+ pages each).  I am an administrator on several cruising forums, social media groups, and WhatsApp groups. Many cruisers turn to Sugar Shack for guidance and assistance and I consider it a huge honor.

I was able to gather 18 cruisers for the Fanla festival.  This is the largest group they’ve had attend and the villagers considered me the “leader.”  

I am so excited to share the many cultural events and stories we’ve learned about here in Fanla.  Follow along with us for the next couple of weeks to read all about it!

A new tribe of girls…they just to play with my hair.

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Falna around Mid-July 2024.  Did you read about the beautiful bays of Ambrym in our last blog post?