Category Archives: Panama Atlantic

Islands on the Atlantic side of Panama

Sailing from San Blas to Colon

Parting is such sweet sorrow, especially when you are leaving the San Blas islands. We have thoroughly enjoyed spending the last few months exploring this amazing and beautiful island chain but it is time to head to Colon. The overall sail to Colon is about 80 miles and we decided to break it up into two days.

The first day we sailed to Portobello which was 58 miles. It was a lovely day, bright, blue sky, 2-3 meter waves, 20-25 knots of wind, beam reach. We hoisted our main to one reef, rolled out the jib to 1 reef and were on our way. It was lovely and so peaceful. After about four hours, the wind dropped to 15-20 knots so we unfurled the jib. We averaged 7.1 knots in speed, but with a few good waves we had a max speed of 11.3 which was fabulously fun.

Portobello has many derelict boats afloat and over 6 semi-sunk yachts so it is a bit unnerving trying to find a place to drop the hook. Especially because there are not that many shallow spots, most of the anchorage is 10+ meters deep. We drove around a bit, attempted to stick the hook several times before finally dropping next to our friends on “Heritage” in 11 meters of water. After we dropped 90 meters of chain, we headed in to shore.

On the way into town, we passed our friends on “KDans“. We had seen this boat in Curacao, Bonaire, and Aruba but we had never officially met them in person. We swung by, they invited us up for a chat and they mentioned they had seen us in St. Maarten and the BVI. Small world. Super nice people. Unfortunately, they had been struck by lightening the week prior and had to be hauled out in Linton Bay to do repairs. They told us that 5 boats had been struck by lightening which is frightening. We heard of a boat being hit in the San Blas as well. Always a fear as you lose all of your electronics, fridge, freezer, depth, autopilot, GPS, everything.

The last time we were in Portobello, I stopped by Iglesia de San Felipe where the Negro Christo is located. The church was closed, but it still demanded your awe as you passed by.

Iglesia de San Felipe

However, the first time I visited I was not able to buy rosary beads so I wanted to go back to purchase one. The rosary beads are special here because they are purple (see post on Portobello).

Purple rosary beads from Iglesia de San Felipe

We grabbed some dinner and on our way back to the dinghy dock, ran into an English speaking family from a boat called “Gallivant.” We chatted briefly with them and determined we would see them in Shelter Bay as we were both heading that way.

The next day we headed to Shelter Bay in Colon. We enjoyed a leisurely morning as the sail was only 20 miles away. Now, which sails to put up? With winds blowing 15-18 knots, 2 meter seas and a wind direction of 140-160. The jib was unfurled completely for the first 30 minutes and determined that we could throw the spinnaker up. Sweet!

Transition with the spin up and just before we took the jib down.

Flying the jib as we hoisted the small spinnaker.

We made excellent time, making 20 miles in a few hours, average speed 7.1, max speed 10.7. Our friends on “Una Mas” left from another bay when passed them. We hailed them on the radio and told them we’d meet them at the marina.

Matt got lucky and caught a large yellow fin tuna which made for several yummy meals.

As you enter Colon you immediately start to see many huge container ships, cargo boats, and large vessels that have just transited the canal or are staging to go through.

Cargo Ships, Shipping Containers and large Vessels outside of breakwater.

The shore is peppered with huge cranes to offload cargo.

Cranes off the coast of Colon, Panama

Continuing on through Colon, you come upon the breakwater where you enter for the Panama Canal and Shelter Bay Marina. We were given strict instructions on how to proceed through the breakwater to avoid the big ships and keep Sugar Shack safe. We hailed the Canal authorities 8 miles out that we were in transit to Shelter Bay and then again at 2 miles out. Upon entering the breakwater, we hailed Shelter Bay to notify them of our pending arrival.

Panama Canal Entrance – breakwater.

I took this image from the internet (owner unknown) but it showed the entrance to the breakwater (see green and red circles at top center). Then we followed the green diagonal line (toward left lower corner) and to the brown circle with the red arrow which is Shelter Bay Marina.

Entrance to Panama Canal breakwater.

The dock master asked us to head to the T-head on C-Dock. Luckily for us, the marina had provided a map of the breakwater channel and a map of the marina so we knew exactly where we were going. You enter passing the large ship dock (slanted dock lower right) and we are at the end of the next dock. Not in the image as this was take before we got there.

Shelter Bay Marina. Photo courtesy of charterworld.com

As you enter the marina channel it appears really narrow as it is shallow mangrove area to the left and boats/docks to the right. Matt had to turn Sugar Shack around and head in stern first so that the port side of the boat would be on the dock.

With a little help from the marina and another cruiser, we arrived with no issues.

Sugar Shack docked at Shelter Bay Marina

Did you note the beautiful fender covers?

Dressing Up Our Fenders

2 Replies

Every boat has fenders, so what makes them special? Sugar Shack came with lots of fenders – really big ones! It’s always good to have solid fenders and the bigger the better. Fenders are used when entering a marina, pulling up to a dock, and any time you need protection for your boat. We’ve pulled them out when a boat was dragging and coming down on us, we’ve used them for fun and games (think “wrecking ball” when you see image below).

Wrecking Ball on the Seas.

In San Blas, we have 3 fenders out on the side of the boat so the pangas, ulus and dugouts don’t damage our boat when they come to sell us fruits, veggies, lobster, and molas.

The fenders have been working great and have protected our hulls from many potential impacts. However, as the fenders get used, they get dirty. When they are dirty, they transfer that dirt and other marks onto the hulls. Which sucks. So, we have been meaning to do fender covers for a very long time. Matt purchased and brought 50’ of blue fleece over 6 years ago along with two more large fenders. The felt has sat under our master bed ever since.

Until, I got a bug up my butt and decided to do something about it! Matt and I worked on several patterns for the A4 fender which are giant balls (well, funny shaped balls). We have 4-A4’s and 1-A5. Many months ago, we tried our hand at making a fender cover using old sunbrella for the A5. And, although it works, it is hideous.

A5 ugly fender cover attempt #1

We learned several things, sunbrella sucks as a fender cover, and our measurements were way off. So, the key was in the pattern. We made several patterns using shower curtains. They are cheap, easy to draw on, cut quickly, can be stapled, and gently manhandled into a form. Unfortunately, it took us a few tries to get what we thought was a decent pattern. We wrapped it around our A4 and then went to work with the fabric.

First, tracing the pattern on the fabric. Traced the larger pattern which has the ½” hem and then traced the actual panel inside.

After cutting the fabric, we sowed the panels side to side forming a giant circle. Then the top and bottom hems were sewed. We placed the cover, inside out over the ball. It was close, worked, but not tight enough. So, we pinned each seam making the cover form fitting, took it off, sewed it up and voila.

A4 Pattern and final product.

Since the first one was so big, we decided to make a new, smaller pattern. Each ball has 6 panels and there are 4 balls. With each fender, the covers got better and better. The 4^th ball is on the side of the boat for the pangas.

Once the hard covers are done, we moved on to the “easy” F4s which are tubes for lack of a better description. Super easy.

We cut 28”x27” piece of fabric (almost a square), hemmed the top and bottom. Then we wrapped it on the fender, inside out so we could pin the final edge.

Gently scoot the fabric off without popping the pins, then sew her up. You want them to fit like a glove so that they don’t slip off during use. Once the cover was completed, we had to squeeze it over the fender – it was very much like putting something on over something unmentionable….

F4 Covers Complete

The four A4s and eight F4s look great and are now well protected. The only unfortunate thing is that we ran out of fabric before I could cover the last remaining A5 which happens to be the largest fender and the one we use the most ☹

Instead of enduring the ugly A5 with dirty sunbrella, I decided to use blue sunbrella scraps to make a new A5 cover. It would not be the same as the others, but it will be closer in color and look a lot better – or so I had hoped.

The sunbrella fabric is not as forgiving as the fleece and does not “mold” to the round shape of the fender well. However, I was determined. I did my measurements, added 2” and went to work. Cut out 6 panels, pinned then sewed the sides and tried her on. Hmph….too short, it did not reach all the way around. No problem, I added another panel. Tried again and it fit all the way around. Good news. I sewed the top and bottom hem, turned it inside out to try on again, and YUCK.

Matt jumped in as I was on the verge of panic and adjusted it a little. Several side seams needed to be taken in and then it looked rather good. But, in order to take in the side seams I had to take out the top and bottom seams (for Pete’s sake!). So, I removed the top and bottom seams, sewed my new side seams, resewed the top and bottom seams and it is what it is.

A5 Complete

Boat project: Fender covers complete!

Completed fender covers.

Useful, yet unusual helpful sewing items:

Shower curtains for patterns
Chalk for outline
Binder clips to hold material

Kuna Indians in Guna Yala

2 Replies

The Kuna (or Guna) Indians have struggled for over hundreds of years for their independence. They originally lived in the Darien Mountains but they slowly immigrated to the San Blas islands in the 1700’s. They fought the Spaniards, Colombians, Panamanians, and pirates. Here is a great website on the Kuna Indians.

In 1925 they agreed to be a part of the Republic of Panama if the government agreed to respect their tribal laws, traditions, and culture. The Kuna received partial autonomy in 1930, and 1938 they were recognized as an official reserve. By 1945 they had a constitution and by 1953 they were granted full administrative and judicial powers.

Each year, the Kuna participate in a reenactment of the revolution. It is NOT a celebration, but rather a reenactment to remember the struggles their ancestors went through to gain their independence. It is also used as an educational opportunity for the youth.

The Guna Yala are very proud of their traditions and customs. A traditional Kuna village is like stepping back centuries, but visitors are very welcome and appreciated. Most of the small islands do not have running water or electricity beyond solar power or small generators. But they survive, are happy, and live long lives. They are a very peaceful, friendly community the sell molas, fish, lobster, octopus, crabs, fruits, veggies and more to tourists and cruisers.

Guna Yala is a matrilineal society where the women control the money. The women select their spouse when they are mature enough, but not at any specific age. They are not allowed to marry outside of the tribe which has caused a kind of genetic insulation and there are many albinos and most Kuna are short in stature. If they marry outside the tribe, they will be shunned and not allowed back. The husband moves into the woman’s family compound

Kuna woman walking in standard outfit for women

KUNA VILLAGES AND HUTS

The Kuna huts are made from renewable and fast-growing materials. The roofs are composed of special palm fronts, dried and tied together with each palm costing $0.50 (which is expensive for the Kuna). The walls are made of bamboo and tied together with twine or fabric. There are no nails or commercial products and most huts stand for over 15 years against torrential storms. The interiors are very sparse with dirt floors, hammocks and a few tree trunks for chairs and tables.

Kuna home and twine holding bamboo shoots together

Most islands do not have running water or restrooms in their huts. The villagers (and public) use outhouses built like a room, over water.

Floor of the public bathroom

KUNA HEALTH

The average lifespan for the Guna Yala is well over 100 years. Lisa, the master mola maker told us that the average person lives to be 115-120! Her parents both lived to be 97 years old and thought to have died young. Good clean living is a testament to a long life.

KUNA HEIRACRCHY

There are many Guna Yala communities within the San Blas Island chain. Each community consists of several islands and has 3 Sailas (chiefs), with one is superior. In addition to these Sailas, there are junior Sailas (akin to executives) and Sualipetmar which are their version of police, and a shaman “Nele” medicine woman/man.

CONGRESSO

The Sailas meet in the “congresso” the biggest hut in the village, where they sit and swing in hammocks situated in the center of the room. As guardians of the Guna knowledge, the Sailas rarely give direct orders. They do communicate through “Argars” which are powerful and important personalities that interpret the Sailas’ wisdom.

Seated around the Sailas and Argars are two rings of people. The inner ring is composed of women and children and the outer ring contains adult males. Everybody has the opportunity to express complaints or ideas. This can be a grievance against your brother, spouse, neighbor, or lover.

COMING OF AGE
It is a special occasion when young girls “come of age.” All of the men in her village with come bearing palm fronds to build her a room within her parents’ hut. Inside this room, will be a very small canoe or ulu where she will bath and be blessed. Only her family and girl friends are allowed inside her room.

The village will celebrate this occasion with a celebration where a family member will host a 4-day party providing food, beverages, and entertainment at no cost for the entire village and community. “Chica” is brewed from sugarcane and other special ingredients, which is the main drink consumed at these festivities. It takes 10 days to ferment and is stored in large pottery.

Kuna require that you ask permission before you take a photo as they do not like to be photographed and be prepared to be turned down. I think I asked over a dozen Kuna for permission and only received a few affirmations.

Kuna Indians in San Blas:

Sweet Kuna man carving wood

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

The Adventures of Sugar Shack