Category Archives: Panama Atlantic

Islands on the Atlantic side of Panama

Swimming with the Rays

This anchorage is so beautiful that we decided to stay an additional day before moving onward. Matt and I would probably stay here for a week or more, but we need to get Wayne back to the Eastern Lemon Cays to catch his flight back to the states.  Cruising allows us to stay or leave on a whim.

We enjoyed a lazy morning, with Matt working on a few small projects. By mid-afternoon we were hot, so Matt and I hopped on the SUPs and wandered around the reef. We saw our spotted ray again and another sting ray. Much different perspective from above water than in the water, but breathtaking none the less. Matt is so much better SUPing than I am, but I did my best to keep up with him while on my knees. He dutifully stood the entire way and didn’t get his toes wet. Good exercise! Afterward, I hopped into the water with the hopes of seeing more rays, but I got side tracked with the huge sand dollars.

More sea treasures - check out this huge sand dollar.

More sea treasures – check out this huge sand dollar.

Wayne decided he wanted more sugar cookies, so I baked up a batch of ducks, fish, hearts and stars. I love to bake and having guests gives me a good excuse. We have already gone through a batch of brownies, one batch of sugar cookies, and half a batch of chocolate chip cookies.

Nice pulled pork pizza for dinner, and out to the bow with a drink, our bean bags and the sunset.

Matt and Wayne enjoying sun downers on the lido deck.

Matt and Wayne enjoying sun downers on the lido deck.

Cruising allows you to change your neighbors and your view at a moments notice:

Morning sun coming in through a starboard hatch.

Morning sun coming in through a starboard hatch.

Cruising gives you access to countless sunsets that take your breath away:

Beautiful sunset.

Beautiful sunset.

Sea Treasures

Holandes Cays, Panama

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We enjoyed a lazy morning, reading, blogging, and breakfast. We thought we would try to circle back to Ogopsibudup where we caught a glimpse of internet before going to our next anchorage. However, wifi alluded us, so we moved onward and stayed within the Holandes Cays.

We motored 9 miles to the Holandes Cays, which is a set of 21 mostly uninhabited islands broken into 3 groups: Western, Eastern, and Central Holandes Cays. These are a favorite stop for cruisers as it lies behind a 7-mile protected barrier reef. The Guna refer to these islands as the “Kaimou” and the Columbian traders refer to the Holandes Cays as “Mauqui.”

Our destination is the most popular anchorage in San Blas, the swimming pool anchorage which is located between Banedup and BBQ island in the Eastern Holandes Cays.

Four other boats were already at this anchorage when we arrived, but the bay is large enough for everyone. The spot we picked gave us an unobstructed view of the reef from the bow and an island view from the stern. We jumped in the pretty water, checked the anchor, and snorkeled over to the reef.

The sea floor was covered in huge sand dollars, both live and dead. We picked a few as souvenirs and moved on toward the reef where we were greeted by a majestic spotted eagle ray that had a 6’ wing span. He was so beautiful gliding through the water! There were several coral heads, a few fish, and even some new coral head growing among the grass. On the way back, I found a beautiful sea biscuit and Matt pointed out a really thick stingray with a stubbed tail. He had some girth! We hovered and watched him glide by not even giving us a second glance.

Sea Treasures

Sea Treasures

As we were drying off on the sugar scoops, another dugout arrived selling more molas. This master mola marker’s name was “Venancio” and his molas were extremely elaborate and intricate, but since I had bought one yesterday, I just admired.

BBQ island got its name from the many barbeques cruisers have on the island. We thought we’d check it out, so we hopped in Sweetie, pulled her up on the beach, and started walking toward the make-shift bonfire. A local and his son approached us and informed us that there is a $3 per person charge for tourists. Hmmm. We did not bring any money, considering we came over in our swimsuits, so turned around and left. I can appreciate his entrepreneurial spirit, but $3 per person seems a bit unreasonable to walk around a very tiny island. They had a few hammocks, a hut (which is where they live, we assume), and a few make shift tables.

BBQ Island

BBQ Island

We checked out another nearby island to see if it could work as an impromptu substitute for bbq island.  Sweetie was left ashore and we started walking around, but before we got too far, we were immediately attacked by no-seeums. Poor Matt, his body is littered with bug bites, guess he is much sweeter than Wayne and I.

Back to the boat for pork chops and baked potatoes.

Lots of Islands Visited:

  • Holandes Cay
  • BBQ Island
  • Banedup
Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

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We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.