Category Archives: Locations

Places around the world

Nouméa: Where the Pacific Meets Paris

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After nearly a week at sea, our expectations for Nouméa were simple: calm water, a place to clear customs, a baguette, and a cold drinks.

What we found instead was a little slice of France floating in the South Pacific.

One minute you’re navigating through one of the world’s largest lagoons, surrounded by turquoise water and coral reefs. The next, you’re tying up to the dock and debating which bakery has the best croissants. It’s a transition that can leave a sailor with a touch of cultural whiplash.

Ilot Kouen. Photo courtesy of Tony & Jaqui on Wainani.

Ilot Kouen. Photo courtesy of Tony & Jaqui on Wainani.

We docked at Port Moselle Marina where we checked into the country and settled in for a week.

Nouméa is the capital of New Caledonia, a French territory with a population of around 100,000 people. French influence is everywhere—from the language and architecture to the cheese selection that somehow seems larger than some Pacific islands.

For sailors, however, the real star is the lagoon. Stretching for thousands of square kilometers and protected by one of the world’s longest barrier reefs, it offers spectacular cruising grounds, abundant marine life, and water so blue it occasionally looks photoshopped.

The Noumea lagoon has over 1,600km of reef and is considered one of the largest lagoons (24,000km2) in the world listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Of course, life ashore has its own attractions. The waterfront promenades, bustling markets, and endless cafés provide a welcome break from fixing things on the boat. 

Shopping Galore

There are dozens of bakeries and cafes within walking distance to the marina. 

The French like their breads and coffees so you will find a bakery or cafe at every corner. We indulged every day with fresh baguettes and pastries! 

Abundant Bakeries

Abundant Bakeries

Right next to the Port Moselle Marina is a large fresh produce market! 

What a dream it is to have access to such a bountiful supply of produce!

We are within walking distance to several grocery stores as well such as Auchon, Carrefour and Geant! 

We can find pretty much everything in Noumea.

In the parking lot behind the marina is a pop up area that sells tourist stuff including clothing, carvings, paintings, and more.

Restaurants

There are loads of eateries around town. 

You can go to upscale restaurants, take away cafes, take away at markets, or the food trucks located minutes from the marina.

Nouméa has a way of sneaking up on you. Come for the lagoon, stay for the baguettes and wine, and leave wondering why every marina doesn’t have a bakery within walking distance.

For a sailor arriving from afar, it’s a destination that feels both wonderfully Pacific and delightfully French—a combination that’s surprisingly hard to sail away from.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We arrived in Noumea on the 12 of June 2026.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Where the Heck is New Caledonia?

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New Caledonia is a small island country situated between Fiji and Australia.  It’s lagoon is one of the largest enclosed lagoon systems in the world, stretching over 24,000 square kilometers.  In addition, the lagoon is protected by the world’s second-largest continuous coral reef After Australia’s Great Barrier reef.

It is a place of turquoise lagoons, welcoming anchorages, and enough baguettes to make you forget you’re in the South Pacific.

But beneath the palm trees lies a fascinating and sometimes complicated history.

New Caledonia was first inhabited by the Kanak people around 3,000 years ago. European contact arrived much later when British explorer Captain James Cook sighted the islands in 1774. He thought the rugged landscape looked similar to Scotland and named it “Caledonia,” the Roman name for Scotland. Since “New Scotland” didn’t have quite the same ring to it, New Caledonia was born.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Image courtesy of CHESHER

France annexed the islands in 1853 and later used them as a penal colony. France sent more than 20,000 convicts here. In fact, some of those prisoners stayed after serving their sentences, and many present-day families can trace their roots back to those early settlers. 

Today, New Caledonia remains a French territory, making it one of the more unique places in the Pacific. The official language is French, the currency is the CFP Franc, and you’ll find croissants, fine cheese, and excellent wine surprisingly close to some of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs.

The population is just under 300,000 people, with roughly 40% identifying as Kanak, alongside communities of European, Polynesian, Asian, and other Pacific Island heritage. The capital, Nouméa, is home to nearly half the population and feels more like a slice of the French Riviera than a typical South Pacific town.

So how does New Caledonia make its money?

The answer is nickel.

The islands sit atop some of the world’s largest nickel reserves. New Cal has long been one of the planet’s major producers. Many countries use Nickel in stainless steel and increasingly in batteries for electric vehicles, making it a highly valuable resource. For decades, mining has been the backbone of the economy, though fluctuating global prices have created challenges in recent years.

And here’s a fun fact: New Caledonia is home to the kagu, a rare flightless bird found nowhere else on Earth. With its striking crest and unusual barking call, it looks like something Mother Nature designed after a particularly long lunch.

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Like many places in the Pacific, New Caledonia is balancing tradition, modernity, and questions about its future. Political discussions surrounding autonomy and independence remain important topics.

In recent years the country has seen periods of unrest as different groups debate the islands’ path forward.

The Kanaks are known for their warm nature, rich culture, and the remarkable natural beauty that surrounds them.

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Matt and I are very excited to adventure through New Caledonia. 

New Caledonia is a landfall of emerald mountains, crystal-clear water, fresh baguettes, and the comforting knowledge that paradise occasionally comes with French pastries.

Not a bad combination.

We plan to spend 2.5-3 months exploring Grande Terre (the main island) and its surrounding islands as well as Isle de Pines.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  We arrived in New Caledonia in early June 2026.

Explore Paihia: Waterfront, Art, History

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While we were waiting for our weather window to head to New Caledonia we hung our around the quaint little town of Paihia.  This waterfront town is full of art, history, shopping, and dining.

Downtown Paihia: Where New Zealand’s History Meets Ice Cream and Flip-Flops

At first glance, downtown Paihia looks like the kind of place that accidentally wandered onto a postcard and decided to stay.

Palm trees sway along the waterfront, tour boats come and go from the wharf, and visitors stroll the main street carrying everything from artisan crafts to giant ice creams that seem determined to melt before reaching the next corner.

But beneath Paihia’s laid-back holiday vibe lies a town that played a surprisingly important role in New Zealand’s story.

A Small Town with a Very Big Past

Long before tourists arrived armed with cameras and sunscreen, Māori communities had lived around the Bay of Islands for centuries. Then, in 1823, missionary Henry Williams established a mission station at Paihia, making it one of the earliest European settlements in the country. The mission became a center for education, printing, translation, and cultural exchange. In fact, some of New Zealand’s earliest printed materials were produced here.

It’s hard to imagine while standing outside a souvenir shop deciding whether you really need another fridge magnet, but Paihia was once at the heart of events that helped shape modern Aotearoa.

Today, plaques and heritage markers along the waterfront quietly remind visitors that history happened here long before dolphin cruises and happy-hour specials.

The Wharf: Paihia’s Front Door

If downtown Paihia has a beating heart, it’s the wharf.

The Paihia Wharf stretches out into the Bay of Islands like an invitation to adventure. Ferries, tour boats, fishing boats, and cruisers come and go from this dock.

The wharf has long been the town’s connection to the sea. Today it serves as both transport hub and people-watching platform. We arrived by ferry on a particularly spicey day with big seas.

Shopping, Paihia Style

Paihia’s shopping district isn’t trying to compete with Auckland or Wellington, and that’s precisely its charm.

The main street follows the waterfront, creating one of the few shopping experiences where you can browse for gifts while simultaneously keeping an eye on the ocean. The shops range from local art galleries and craft stores to beachwear outlets, cafés, and tourism operators.

During busy periods, particularly when cruise ships visit, the area buzzes with energy. Market stalls often appear on the Village Green, showcasing local artists, craftspeople, and makers from around Northland. It’s the perfect place to discover a handmade treasure or purchase something you absolutely didn’t know you needed five minutes earlier.

Village Green

Village Green

Art in Unexpected Places

Paihia has a knack for slipping art into everyday spaces.

It’s part public art, part outdoor history lesson, and considerably more entertaining than most history textbooks.

In the center of town is a huge map of the Bay of Islands, commonly called BOI.

Elsewhere around town you’ll find sculptures, painted installations, and community art projects that add character to the waterfront.

The result is a town that feels creative without taking itself too seriously—a difficult balance that Paihia manages remarkably well.

The Best Way to Experience Downtown Paihia

The secret to downtown Paihia is not to rush.

Walk the waterfront. Read a few historical plaques. Watch the ferries come and go. Browse the shops. Grab an ice cream. Sit on a bench overlooking the bay.

Paihia may be small, but it manages to combine history, art, adventure, and relaxation into a package that feels uniquely Northland. It’s a place where New Zealand’s past and present meet beside the sea—and where even a simple stroll downtown can turn into an unexpectedly memorable afternoon.

Find Paihia on No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.

Spent several weeks in and around Paihia waiting for a weather window to head to New Caledonia. We were here end of May to beginning of June 2026.