Category Archives: Locations

Places around the world

Tuvalu and its Charms

Tuvalu is such a small country but it is rich in its charms and culture.  We’ve met so many lovely people who have welcomed us with big smiles and hardy waves!

Formation of Atolls – David’s Drill

An great attraction in Funafuti is “David’s Drill.”

Scientists from the Royal Society of London conducted experimental drilling in the late 1800s.  Their goal was to test Charles Darwin’s theory of atoll formation. Darwin, the famous formulator of evolution theory, believed that all coral atolls rest on a volcanic base. The deepest bore at David’s Drill reached over 1,000′ and proved Darwin’s theory. The boreholes can still be seen to this day in Fongafale village.

Funafuti has the oldest, most comprehensive geological map of any atoll globally.  This provides a unique dataset for on-going contributions to the geological sciences.

Tuvalu Stamps – Tuvalu Philatelic Bureau

The Tuvalu Philatelic Bureau is located at the southern end of the township of Funafuti. Stamps depicting facets of Tuvalu are printed overseas and are highly collectable.

Since 1975, collectors from more than 60 countries around the globe have eagerly sought new issues of Tuvalu stamps.

There are over one hundred stamps on display that you can purchase.  You tell the worker what stamp you want and she searches the boxes (2nd row, left photo) for your stamps).

The popularity of these unique and original stamps grew rapidly.

These are the stamps I purchased:

Public Gym – Fitness Area

Near the beach with a beautiful view is a fitness area donated fitness equipment.  It looks a bit old (2019) but it all works.

Amazing Garden

It is very difficult for the people living on atolls to have any type of garden.  The reason is because they do not have any soil or dirt. 

However, the clever people of Tuvalu have created and maintain a spectacular community garden.  With much thanx to the Taiwanese. 

The Taiwanese provide the seeds, tools, and soil.  The locals built an area above the coral, covered it, added enriched soil, and started planting. 

They have dozens of enormous rain water tanks to keep things hydrated..

The locals use pig and chicken manure to enrich the soil. 

It also gives them an opportunity to sell the eggs and pigs for additional income.

The result is a rich, thriving garden. 

They sell tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, eggplant, peppers, bananas, lettuce, bok choi, squash and more.

To purchase items from the garden you arrive at 6:00am on Tuesday or Saturday. There is no shopping cart or bag.  A list is passed around that you write your order on. Then you wait for your name to be called to collect your bag.

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.

Did you read about Tuvalu’s status as the 2nd smallest country in the world in our last blog post?

Tuvalu, the Smallest Country in the World?

Tuvalu is situated in the South Pacific.  Southeast of the Marshall Islands and Kiribati and North of Fiji and New Zealand.  It is barely a spec on the world map.

Tuvalu is a fully independent island nation within the Commonwealth. 

The country consists of 3 reef islands and 9 atolls. The population is 10,643 (consensus 2022).  This makes it the 2nd least populous country in the world (behind the Vatican City).

A Disappearing Country

Tuvalu is a low-lying island nation and is extremely vulnerable to sea level rise.  The highest point is a mere 15′ above sea level making it one of the countries most threatened by climate change.

Rising sea levels not only push back its shorelines, but the encroaching salt water also erodes the country’s limited farmland. The sea’s warming temperatures also threaten surrounding marine life.

The country made international headlines in 2021 when then-foreign minister Simon Kofe delivered a speech to the United Nations while standing knee-deep in water.

Because there is not a significant amount of soil the country has to rely heavily on imports and fishing for food.

During our visit we got to witness their attempt to save their island. 

Australia and New Zealand invested close to $100 million to add 40 acres of land. A massive amount of machinery. It starts with dredging the lagoon, then filtering sand, creating enormous sand mounds, then filling huge sand bags.  They then use the sand bags to create barriers between the shore and lagoon (bottom photo).

Income Sources

The local government has several income sources. However, two of them are their largest revenue stream.

The first is from fishing licenses.  Like many other Pacific Nations, Tuvalu sells fishing licenses to other countries.  This gives international companies the rights to fish in the Tuvalu waters.  

The second source of revenue is from a digital source. The government owns the suffix .tv.  So their email and web addresses end in .tv.  For example, christine.mitchell@tuvalu.tv.

As a brilliant move, the government sold its .tv internet suffix to a Californian company.  This brings in several million dollars a year in continuing revenue.  The California company then sells the suffix to television broadcasters.

Many locals harvest copra or work on cargo ships and send money back to their families

We arrived in Tuvalu a few days after they christened their very 1st ATM!  Can you believe it?  This cash only country had no ATM.

Funafuti Marine Conservation

20% of the lagoon in Funafuti is a marine conservation area covering 33sq kilometers (12.74 sq. miles). 

The conservation area consists of reef, lagoon, and motus on the western side of the atoll (gray area in image). 

Many species of fish, coral, algae, and invertebrates call this area home including the endangered green sea turtle.

Tuvalu Airport

For being such a small country it has a really nice airport. 

The landing strip has been newly paved making it the nicest we’ve seen in years. 

Fiji Link flies three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday) to and from Fiji and Tuvalu.  It is a big event when the plane comes so we took the opportunity to watch it a few times.  

Children use the runway as a playground when in between flights.

WWII 

Thousands of U.S. troops were stationed in Tuvalu during WWII.  They used used Tuvalu as a launching place to attack the Japanese in Kiribati. 

It is not uncommon to find WWII remnants on the beaches and reefs in Funafuti the capital of Tuvalu.

Beginning in 1942, U.S. forces built airbases on the islands of Funafuti, Nanumea, and Nukufetau. The Funafuti airstrip is still in use.

The Navy built a sea port, a small hospital, PT boat base, a seaplane base and an airbase.

Interesting Websites

We managed to find the “town drunk” who was super jovial and willing to share his jug of vodka coke with Matt

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Tuvalu from April 18-25, 2025.

Check out Tuvalu on No Foreign Land: www.noforeignland.com/place/6056779874041856 

Can you believe we had a double steering failure on our passage from the Marshall Islands?

Kiribati: The Bloodiest Battle of WWII

We planned to stop at Kiribati to break up our long passage from the Marshall Islands to Fiji.  Imagine our surprise when we learned the the most catastrophic loss of life and the bloodiest battle of WWII took place at Tarawa, Kiribati.

WWII Relics and Remnants

We first discovered heaps of WWII remnants in Maloelap and Wotje in the Marshall Islands.  It was fascinating, frightening, and intriguing all at the same time.

As we arrived Kiribati, we learned that the most deadliest WWII battle took place in this very atoll. 

A Little History on Kiribati

The Gilbert group of islands host a number of World War II historical sites. Tarawa, Butaritari, Abemama (also the ocean island of Banaba) were invaded by the Japanese in 1941, just after they bombed Pearl Harbour. Afterward, the Japanese fortified the atolls, 

In 1942 and 1943 US Marines conducted a number of large scale raids to remove the Japanese presence. The Battle of Tarawa is reputedly one of the bloodiest battles ever fought. During the 76 hour fight, casualties on the invading side rose up to over one thousand (of 18,000 men). The Japanese had only 17 survivors and lost over 4,500 soldiers.

The island was heavily fortified by the Japanese and secured by 4,500 soldiers besides machine guns, pillboxes dug in heavy concrete (100 of them), a long trench system, airstrip, seawalls, antiaircraft guns, light tanks, heavy machine guns, a natural coral reef, barbed wire and mines. According to Admiral Keiji Shibasaki, USA couldn´t take the atoll even with a million men in one hundred years.

Some of the kids we met on our WWII tour along with our tour guide Molly Brown (+686.7300.1016).

The Battle

By November 19th, 1943, US troops had arrived nearby the atoll. The plan was ready, and the ships carried 18,000 marines to take on the tiny island with only 4,500 Japanese soldiers. US plan was to bombard the island heavily and then move on with special vehicles that could go on into the water and come out to the sand moving through tight reefs with no effort. These cutting-edge vehicles for the time were called amphtracks and carried 20 soldiers behind machine guns.

The morning of the 20th was the first battle day of the invasion. The tide was lower than expected and the result was disastrous for US troops because they were stuck with the water to the chest and had to leave their vehicles far from the beach advancing on foot under heavy enemy fire. The attack suffered a number of problems and finally, securing the island was one of the most complicated missions US troops had during the entire war.

Photos courtesy of Visit Kiribati's Blog

Photos courtesy of Visit Kiribati’s Blog

Today, relics of the battles and forts can be visited as a living museum of this part of history.  This is what was left behind:

  • Coastal Defense Guns (48″)
  • Solid concrete bungers and pillboxes
  • Tanks, amtracs, ship wrecks and plane wrecks

Walking through WWII history

Today, relics of the battles and forts can be visited as a living museum of this part of history. 

We only had 2 days in Kiribati so we were not able to unearth all of the relics. However, we did take a tour with a local, Molly Brown. Her grandfather and uncle were alive during the war.

On the northern end of Tarawa and we found (4) bunkers amongst the locals yards and cemeteries.  There are bunkers all over the little island.

These bunkers were on the beach.  You could creep inside but it was full of bugs, spider webs, and trash.

I love this shot.  It has a bunker in the foreground and two coastal defense guns in the background.

We came across several structures that were either ammunition depots or some other massive storage facilities.

This is the Commander’s bunk. As you can see, it was heavily attacked.  Yet, it is still standing.

This pillbox (top) was dug up from the sand.  The bottom right is a storage unit from WWI (1905). Bottom left is an ammunition storage area.

War Memorials

We found several memorials dedicated to the thousands of soldiers who lost their lives during this battle.  British memorial below.

This U.S. memorial dedicated to the marines and navy troops.

The Japanese and Korean Monument.

Weapons, Tanks, and Guns

Our tour guide, Molly Brown took us to the Police station because they have two live shells stored.

Strangely enough they had lots of tanks on Kiribati.  Children play on these dilapidated tanks.

At a playground we found two guns and a war memorial from New Zealand.

More weapons.

Pieces of turrets, coastal defense guns, and other weaponry. 

Interesting sites on Kiribati:

  • WWII Tours: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/world-war-ii/ 
  • WWII Relics: www.visit-kiribati.com/exploring-kiribati/historical-relics-every-vacationer-need-to-see/

Sugar Shack’s WWII Findings in the Marshall Islands

We had the opportunity to discover and explore many WWII relics while in the Marshall Islands.

  • Maloelap WWII Relics Part I: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/maloelap-wwii-remnants-part-i/
  • Maloelap WWII Relics Part II: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/maloelaps-wwii-remnants-part-ii/
  • WWII Remnants of Wotje Part I: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/wwii-remnants-on-wotje-part-i/
  • WWII Remnants of Wotje Part II: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/wwii-remnants-on-wotje-part-ii/

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events. 

We visited Kiribati around 4/11-4/13 2025.  Be sure to read about our passage to Kiribati.