Category Archives: Society Islands

Including Bora Bora, Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Ralatea Tahaa

Huahine Yacht Club View

Huahine Hide Out

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The first weather window to Huahine opened up and we took it. Following this small window was another “blow.”  We needed to get to our Huahine Hide Out. We need to go “east” but the prevailing winds are coming from the east so it makes a sail trip difficult.  Not only do you have to tack a bunch of times, but you also head into the wind and the waves.  Well, the wind was still coming easterly but at least they had calmed down (from 25-30kts to 15-18kts).  So off we went.

We had a lovely sail with only 2 tacks which is remarkable considering we were going into the wind.  It took us a little longer and sailed a little further than planned, but we made it.  Pretty awesome day.

Passage

  • Raiatea to Huahine
  • Miles to Destination:  27nm
  • Total Miles Sailed: 40.8nm
  • Max Speed: 9.8kt
  • Avg. Speed: 5.7
  • Moving Time 7 hours 11 minutes

We took advantage of our Huahine hide out by visiting with friends, doing a few boat projects, and getting caught up on paperwork (blogs, banking, etc…)  Matt had to find and fix a few “leaks” around the hatches, we replaced a ceiling panel in the office, and we put together lists of things that need to be done when we get to Tahiti.

In between all the “chores” we had some fun too.  We hit “Izzy’s Burgers and More” several times because the food is amazing, the service is great and we love to patronize Isabel!  This is (left, back, front) Mike “Easy” Steve and Lili “Liward” Matt, Floris and Ivar “Luci Para 2” me, and Helen “Wow”

Izzys Burgers & More Huahine

Izzys Burgers & More Huahine

A few great sunsets at the Huahine Yacht Club during happy hour with 500xpf ($5) cocktails and 450xpf ($4.50) beers.

Huahine Yacht Club View

Huahine Yacht Club View

Huahine Anchorage

Matt and I usually anchor in the “flats” which is a shallow area in between the two passes.  It is less crowded and in beautiful shallow water (top photo).  Most monohulls anchor or take a mooring closer to the village of Fare (middle photo).  Our friend on Luci Para 2 (Floris and Ivar) use their kayak instead of a dinghy to protect the environment.

Not much of a Huahine Hide Out as we are out and about, but the anchorage is safe and protected.  Always a good thing.

My friends on Luci Para 2 (Floris and Ivar) take me to the shell museum.  Check out the next blog for details on our shell adventure.

We had a small weather window to get to Tahiti but we decided to wait until the next one. Why?  Because some friends of ours were playing a gig that we wanted to attend. So, stay tuned for the blog when we show you how a Polynesian concert is done!

Walk About and Small Hike

We explored with a 5-mile walk around a few bays and went half way up the mountain.  First we crossed over this lovely little bridge surrounded by gorgeous trees, plants, and flowers.

We walked along the shore and came across this sweet path with short, leaning palm trees.  I loved how uniform they looked as they reached out toward the water and sun.

Beautiful views of the Marina Apooiti Bay and hillside.

Huahine Views

Huahine Views

Back to the boat for some relaxation.

Because we are trying to fill our blog with posts through the year, some of these posts may be a bit shorter.  I am concerned we won’t have internet in the Gambiers so I am trying to populate and schedule out blogs during our stay there.  So we don’t go “dark”.

Events in this blog took place in early October.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

The Wait for a Weather Window

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And the wait begins…We started formulating our plan after we dropped Donald off at the Raiatea airport.  The problem is that our “plan” is contingent on weather.  We need to start heading east but the problem is the prevailing winds come out of the east.  So, what does that mean?  It means we would be heading into the wind and into the seas.  Which is not conducive to sailing – which means motoring.  Motoring is no fun and uses up diesel unnecessarily…so we wait for a better weather window.

We left north Raiatea and headed to Ile Haio, south Raiatea.  Of course, the 15nm to this baie is directly into the wind.  We attempted to fly the jib a few times but it was mostly a motor.  At least now we are in a really protected, beautiful baie that positions us for our departure to Huahine.

Exploring Ile Haio

While wait, we explore.  This baie is gorgeous and super protected.  The wind could be howling outside the lagoon and we would not know it except for the white caps.  Every once in awhile we will get a rogue gust, but for the most part it is very pleasant. 

Ile Haio, Raiatea

Ile Haio, Raiatea

Matt and I explored Ile Haio.  We walked one side of the island last time.  This time we walked around the entire island.  It is not too far, 1.7 miles over sand, rocks, trees, and rivers.

We left Sweetie at the north end of the island near a copra farm.  This is actually a nice farm with a sturdy copra drying center (the lower structure) and a small shack for the workers. I think there was a bigger structure or house at one point as there are cement pillars all around it.  Behind the shack is a stone, retaining wall.  Above and behind the wall are two graves.  Most Polynesians bury their loved ones in their yards or on their property.

Copra Farm on Ile Haio

Copra Farm on Ile Haio

We found lots and lots of crab holes as we walked along the water’s edge. You have to be careful as your foot can cause a collapse of the hole dropping you into their home (top photo).  We came across another shack more inland.  This appeared to be more lived in as there was laundry on lines, chickens wondering around, and a few goats.  It was rather pretty with patches of green grass surrounding their fenced in garden with papaya and banana trees, and some other weird fruit we could not identify (lower right).

I love seeing signs of nature’s success – against all odds.  How does this tree flourish when its trunk is so badly damaged?

We finally made it back to the lagoon side and captured Sugar Shack sitting pretty.

The Plan: After “the wait”

At the first weather window, we will head to Huahine.  Hopefully only staying for a week to 10 days before being able to move on again.  At the next weather window, we will make our way to Tahiti or Mo’orea (depending on the wind direction).   If we end up in Mo’orea we will meet up with some of our friends to procure boat parts that they brought back from the states for us.  A short stay there before heading to Tahiti to provision for the season.  After that we will continue heading east to the Tuamotus then south toward Gambier for season.

Exploring By Land

Matt and I took Sweetie exploring around Nao Nao.  We wanted to go ashore, but it is a private island with signs forbidding entrance, so we stayed by the shoreline.  The west side (closest to the channel) had a little dock and small beach.  Both were adorned with beautiful, white beach furniture and umbrellas (top photo).  We approached from the channel and slowly made our way around the tip of the island.  As we came around the other side, we saw a small resort or a really nice private residence. 

Nao Nao Private Island

Nao Nao Private Island

We continued on to the east side of the island, furthest away from the residence.  There were no “prive” signs down here, so we decided a quick walk about was in order.  I know, we are now bending the law.  It was a rocky shoreline but still really pretty.

We did find this funny tree with a bunch of shells hanging from it – does that make it a shell tree?

Exploring by Sea

We found a wonderful snorkel spot right by the tip of Nao Nao.  We were so surprised to find so many reef fish and at least 4 or 5 different species of puffer fish.  Lots of nemos protecting their coral.

Lots of different species of puffer fish.  I just love puffer fish!

Lots of pretty fish hanging out.  Lower left corner was a group of small brilliant blue fish playing house inside a vacant clam shell.

Pretty coral heads all over

Matt then took us all the way to the reef.  He had wo bob and weave around the coral heads, but we made it.

We wait for a week before we finally get a weather window to head to Huahine – we are off tomorrow.

Events from this blog occurred between October 6-10, 2020.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

A Twirl through the Societies, Part II

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We continue to show Donald the beauty of the Societies. It was time to leave Huahine and head back to Raiatea.  

The great thing about cruising the Societies is that the islands are not very far apart.  We had a small weather window and decided to sail back to Raiatea.  We still had lots of gusts (up to 35-38kts), but it was our best opportunity.  This trip was with the wind and waves so it would be a lot easier than our trip to Huahine.

As we left, we had gusts up to 38kts and then they would die down to 7-8kts.  Talk about learning and trimming the sails a lot.  It sure was interesting.  We ended up completing the passage in 4 hours (as opposed to the 6 hours it took to get us there).  We had top speed of 11.5kt when we had a wind gust and surfed down a wave. 

Approaching Raiatea – I love how the mountains all wear cloud hats :0

Raiatea wearing a cloud hat

Raiatea wearing a cloud hat

Baie Haio – New Bay for Sugar Shack

We found a new baie to us.  Baie Haio is gorgeous and is located on the southern tip of Raiatea.  We are surrounded by palm tree shores.

Baie Haio, Raiatea

Baie Haio, Raiatea

We went exploring on shore and came to the town of Fetuna where there is a church, a small magasin, and a school.

Baie Haio, Raiatea

Village of Fetuna in Baie Haio, Raiatea

The moon peered out from behind the palm trees making a spectacle of himself.

The next morning Matt broke out the drone and captured more magnificent photos of Sugar Shack.  This is certainly my favorite bay in Raiatea and might be one of my favorite bays in the Societies.

Shot towards the motu as the sunrises

Shot towards the pass showcasing the reef and motu.

And the grand poo ba of them all – a shot toward the mountain.

Heading North

We got up early to head north.  It would be an upwind passage so we could not even take out the sail.  Just a motor.  But it was really pretty.  We exited the southern pass (Passe Punaeroa) because the is no navigable passage inside the lagoon in this area.  We re-entered the Passe Tetuatiare with the hopes of finding a good anchor spot behind Ilot Horea.  However, with easterly winds it dropped us too close to the reef so we decided to move on to plan B.

This image was taken as we were motoring outside the lagoon.  Check out the huge waves breaking on the reef between us and the lagoon.

Plan B was to move into Passe Rautoanui and hang a right to see if we could anchor near village Tevaitoa.  However, there were no moorings and it was way too deep for us to drop the hook. So, off we go to Plan C.

Plan C:  motor up to Baie Apu, Taha’a.  It was directly into the wind, so we motored the entire way.  We hopped on a mooring and took Donald to the Chompon Pearl Farm.

We started at the bottom of Raiatea (south) near Ile Haio, then exited at the first pink dot (lower left).  Plan B was in at the 3rd dot until we moved to Plan C and headed to Taha’a.

New Anchorage – Point Tenape

Donald told us about a cool place to have lunch – Raiatea Lodge.  So, we headed south toward a new anchorage across from the lodge.  It was a beautiful sail day with just the jib pushing us along at 5-6kts.  We passed by 4 different huts on sandy spits.  The locals use these for fishing or kit surfing spots.

Raiatea Lodge

Raiatea Lodge is a pretty little hotel.  They have a long pier and turquoise buildings.

Raiatea Lodge

Raiatea Lodge

They were kind enough to let us have lunch with them.  It was pricey, but tasty.

Raiatea Lodge

Raiatea Lodge

The next morning, we made French toast and motored closer to the airport where we picked up a mooring ball near Raiatea Carenage.  We had a lovely time visiting new spots to Donald, new spots to Sugar Shack, and new spots to both of us.  Although we did not get to do an overnight to Mo’orea due to weather, we had a great time.

Click here, if you missed Part I “A Twirl through the Societies.”  Events in this post occurred between 2-5 Oct. 2020.   Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.