Category Archives: Society Islands

Including Bora Bora, Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Ralatea Tahaa

Marina Papeete Sunset

Tahiti Madness Part I

A big part of me dreads coming to Tahiti.  First, because it is the epicenter for the pandemic.  The majority of the cases in French Polynesia are in Tahiti and people visiting this area have brought the virus back to the outer islands.  So, we have to be extra careful here to avoid catching covid.  Second, it means we have tons of chores, errands, and tasks which are exhausting.  And third, we will be spending loads of money.  It is why I call it Tahiti Madness when we come here.  A whirl wind of organized chaos and this visit is no different.

We arrived in Papeete around 10:15 from Huahine.  We had hoped to arrive much earlier.  In retrospect, we should have left on Sunday and arrived on Monday, but you know, hind sight is 20/20.  Our goal was to find a slip at Marina Papeete so we would have easy access to the downtown stores for a few days.  Then we thought we would move out to the anchorage and finish the rest of our errands from a different location.

The wind was blowing pretty darn good causing white caps in and around the marina.  Not a good sign as it can be challenging to maneuver the boat into a slip in those conditions.  But we got lucky as our friends on Garulfo helped us into the slip (after two false starts).  

Off to the Races – Day 1

After we secured the boat, we had to run to an appointment with the U.S. Consulate.  We were scheduled to meet him at 1100, but missed that time.  He graciously said he would wait for us if we could get there before 1200.  Well, that ruled out the bus because their schedule is on island time.  So, we hopped in a cab for the 10-mile journey.  $30 later we arrived, hopped out, and ran to the photo store to get Matt’s passport photo.  Then upstairs to the U.S. Consulate. (Stay tuned for a blog post called “Passport and Visa Mess” coming soon)

It was a huge relief to get that passport renewal process started.  Once we returned downtown, we headed for the marina office.  We needed to let them know we arrived, pay for the slip, obtain a security card, and load money on another card for our electricity and water.  Super nice folks at Marina Papeete!  Now that we are legal we headed to a late lunch because we were starved.

After lunch, we swung by two sporting goods stores to see if they had a volleyball and volleyball net for our friends in Gambiers (Herve and Valerie).  Remarkably, we found both, noted the prices and headed back to the boat. We needed to confirm with them that they still wanted these items and had not bought them since the last time we were there.

Marina Work

Back at the marina, Matt took advantage of the cheap water and washed down the boat.  It was incredibly salty from our passage and needed a good rinse.

As Matt was working on the outside, I was working on paperwork for our long-stay visa renewals and Matt’s passport. 

Before we knew it, it was time for the net and I was net controller.  As I’m wrapping up the net, I hear someone tell Matt that we have to move.  We are in their private slip.  Seriously!  Ugh.  I wrap up the net quickly, enlist our friends on Garulfo again, and we move 4 slips down on the same pier.  This spot was taken earlier so we were super happy it was available now.  The winds had virtually stopped and with the help of our friends, we eased in with no issues.

To wrap up our first day of Tahiti madness, we had happy hour on Garulfo.  It was a short night as we were exhausted from the lack of sleep during our previous passage night.

Tahiti Madness – Day 2

We slept long and hard waking up refreshed and ready for our busy day.  There was lots of ground to cover so we got started early.  Left the boat at 0730 and headed for the industrial area which is 1.2 miles away.  Matt needed to purchase bearings for the water maker.  Lucky for us, the guy had exactly what we needed and within 5 minutes we were walking toward our second stop, the Champion grocery store.  This will be the first of many grocery runs.  Back to the boat to drop off the first load.

Ocean 2000, a marine store was our next stop.  They close at 12n so we had to hustle to make it there on time.  We picked up the red button for the Yamaha kill switch, teak oil for our exterior wood, fuses, some other bits.  On the way back toward the boat, we stopped in Maxi’s which is a store where you can buy food in bulk (like Costco or Sam’s).  We had to be careful here as we could only buy what we could carry.  Unfortunately, we went overboard buying in bulk (minced garlic, snacks, ziplock bags, salsa, peanut butter, etc…).  Will have to come back for round 2.

Loaded down, we started the long walk back to the marina.  On the way, we made one more stop to Olympian Sports to buy the volleyball net and ball.  It was on the way, but seriously I needed a break from carrying the bags.  We continued on to the marina and unloaded our 2nd load.  This photo shows only the first load, we return to the market and bulk store the next day and the fresh market right before we left Papeete.

The Madness Continues

A quick lunch at the market, and off we go again.  We are in full blown Tahiti madness mode.   A mile later we arrive to Sing Tung Hung another marine store where we grab a few items.  Then we stop at Ace hardware (2 stores) for more boat supplies (cleaning agents, brushes, silicone, blue tape, etc…). A quick stop at the bank for local currency and back to the boat for the 3rd time.

Finally, back at the boat, but we are not done yet.  The sun is still up and there is work to do.  Matt starts working on removing the main sail.  (Look for the post “Main Sail Maintenance” coming soon).  As Matt is working outside, I work on stowing our goodies.  It’s not as easy as you’d think as we remove all packaging (cardboard attracts bugs), label all lids with content and expiry date, wrap blue tape on all metal items (cans), and then stow it safely on the boat.

We walked over 8 miles today, most of it schlepping bags.  No wonder my body is protesting!

Sunset in the marina

Coming up next, more of our Tahiti madness adventures.

Events from this blog occurred on 21 October 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Steve at rock the barge

Rock the Barge

We often hear locals strumming on their Uke or practicing on their drums and it draws us like bees to flowers.  However, it is rare to attend a music gig or concert outside of a heiva, especially during covid.  So, we jumped at the chance to attend “rock the barge” with a few locals and cruisers.

Steve, on Liward, is a very talented guitar player and singer.  He has been playing and putting on mini concerts with locals all over French Polynesia.  He invited Frank who owns the shell museum (see this post) who is a percussionist, and Terani to sing and play guitar.

Now, all they needed was a venue.  Typically, they play at the Huahine yacht club.  However, with covid restrictions we could not “gather” there.  However, there is a local family, Teiki and Tea, who have a beautiful house boat.  They have sailed it all around French Polynesia (by spinnaker).  They graciously offered their vessel for rock the barge!

A Polynesian House Boat

This remarkable house boat looks like a party barge as you approach. We had seen it around several islands. We approached it once hoping to buy a drink.  However, we quickly learned it was “prive” and went on our merry way.  They have a large engine and a spinnaker that helps maneuver the vessel from anchorage to anchorage.

Several large solar panels and a small generator provide power.  Everything looks authentically Polynesian and several varieties of local wood are used all around the boat.

Teiki and Tea's home

Teiki and Tea’s home

They have an open floor plan where the galley and salon are out back.  The helm is in the front, sleeping quarters are upstairs and below the sleeping quarters is a living / storage area.

They have a baby goat, an old rabbit, a cat and soon a chicken onboard.

They used a piece of bamboo for their herb garden and have beautiful Polynesian art all over the boat.  Can you guess what the rock like item is in the middle photo?  See answer at end of the blog.

They also had a beautiful, fast outrigger that they hand built over many months!  It was gorgeous sailing across the lagoon toward our anchorage.

Rock the Barge

It was time to rock the barge!  Steve had set up all the gear, did the sound check at 1700, and the festivities begin at 1800.  The main band consisted of Steve (left) lead guitar and singer, Frank on percussion and Terani on guitar and co-lead singer.

They had Teiki (the owner of the barge) fill in on harmonica on many songs and we had a guest appearance by Puamu who sang an amazing rendition of an Adel song!

We should have been better at social distancing, but considering there are zero cases of covid in Huahine we thought we were safe.  Hopefully.  There were about 20-25 people on the barge and another 12 people in the dinghies.  I love the local ladies’ flowers; they just enhanced their natural beauty.

A few of the dinghy crowd.  Tope is Linette and Neils (Storm Along) and Floris and Ivar (Luci Para 2).  Below is Dave and Jan (Hanna) and Ramon and his wife (Nawom)

Somehow, I was blessed with a crown and a floral leigh at the end of the night – perfect ending to a perfect concert.  I love Rock the Barge nights.

ANSWER:  The rock like item is an anchor.  A line is tied around the top portion, then it is tossed in the water and holds their barge in place.

Events from this blog occurred on 18 October 2020.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

Shell Museum in Huahine

Huahine Shell Museum

Frank, the owner of Expo Coquillages (Shell Expo) or the Shell museum. He has spent 38 years collecting precious sea shells from the beach.  He has built an amazingly, organized, educational, shell museum next to his house for Huahine visitors. 

Frank has spent the last 38 years collecting and expanding on his private shell collection.  80-90% of the shells in his museum come from the beaches of Huahine and Rangiroa. He does not collect them from the sea as he does not want to kill the inhabitants for their shells.  His museum is small, but extremely well organized.  Each group of shells is in a numbered box with an index that gives their name.  In many instances. He has photos of the shell with its inhabitant.

Shell Museum Tour

Frank starts off by talking about conch shells which are both beautiful and deadly.  A “real” conch shell has an opening from the top to the bottom of the shell.  That’s how you can differentiate a conch from another similar shell.  99% of all conch shells open to the right.  Meaning if you hold a conch with the pointy part down, the opening will be to the right (top photo).  Only one type of conch shell opens to the left and they are rare (bottom photo). One in a million will open in the opposite direction for both of these types of shells.

Conch shells opening to the right

Conch shells opening to the right

Deadly Conchs

Many of these conch shells are poisonous and or deadly when they are alive.  They cause 2-3 deaths per year (similar to a shark).  But honestly who wants to admit they were killed by a small sea shell compared to a shark?  Which is why you don’t hear much about these types of deaths.

The interesting thing is that these conch shells are afraid and will retreat when threatened.  They don’t try to kill or injure humans.  It is the curiosity and greed of humans that get’s them stung.  Humans see the shells in the sea, pick them up, put them in their pocket and whamo – they get stung.  The shells cause paralysis within 2 hours and then death.  They are 32x more deadly than the cobra and there is no vaccine.

The Conch Anatomy

The conch has a snout that protrudes from the shell that does the “investigating”.  When he is in danger, he jets out his stinger under the snout.  It is so fast that you can’t see it with the naked eye.  They can sting multiple times, like a bee.  When trying to capture prey, the shell will extend its snout, then sting a fish and open its mouth to bring it to him.  Sometimes it will open its mouth so wide that it collects multiple fish.  When that happens, it stings the fish while inside his mouth (see lower right image).

Deadly Conch

Deadly Conch

These look like conch shells, but they are not.  The opening does not extend from the top to the bottom.

Shells that look like conch shells, but are not.

Shells that look like conch shells, but are not.

The conch shell grows with its inhabitant.  It is not like a hermit crab where they change shells.  These little guys are nocturnal and hide during the day.  By the time they reach the beach they are dead and can be collected and admired.

Shells, Shells, and More Shells

Frank has a gorgeous collection of over 500 different types of shells. Unfortunately, most of his presentation was in French so I had to rely on Floris to translate bits and pieces for me.  I am sure I missed a lot of the information, but I was enthralled with the beauty of the shells none the less.

And more beautiful shells

I loved seeing many of my favorite shells at this shell museum.  He had several varieties of sand dollars (I have 4 of the 5 shown in the middle picture.  I’d love to get the one in the lower left corner but have never seen one like this before!  I have several of the cone shells including one polished as pretty as the all pearl ones (top right photo).  We also have several sea urchins (lower left) and one of the super dainty shells on the lower right.

One of my favorite shells is actually part of a defense mechanism for a large shell!  I had collected many of the shells on the bottom photo with a cool swirl.  I found out from the shell museum tour that this is used to close the critter inside a large shell (see top photo).

These are all my favorite shells from the shell museum.  Check out the top left corner – isn’t it beautiful with its pearl stripes?

This display had the evolution of the queen conch shell (furthest away on right).  This shell starts small (lower left corner) and evolves over time into a queen conch with large fingers.  I am a proud owner of one of these beauties as well.

Evolution of the queen conch

Evolution of the queen conch

In another display, Frank shows long, pointy shells that he opened up so you can see the complexity of the framework of the shell.

This cool photo shows what the shell and inhabitant look like while alive (top) then you can see the dead shell left behind (red shells toward bottom).

One of his beautiful displays

Pearls

Frank also sold pearl jewelry, carved shells, and more.  He personally creates and fabricates all of the jewelry.  Some of his products are made by other locals of Huahine as well.

This was an interesting summary of the quality of pearls, their color, shape, and luster.  He also has the number of pearls exported.  Japan and Hong Kong take 87% of the pearls from French Polynesia.

What an interesting day at the shell museum.

Events from this blog occurred on 15 October 2020.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.